What's killing my battery?

[spacecapsule1]

My battery keeps going dead on me. At first I thought it was a bad battery, so I exchanged it for a new one. Then it turned out that my alternator was bad so I just replaced it. Now it turns out that my battery is still going dead on me over night. Nothing is left on in the car. No lights or anything. The battery connections are good. The new alternator is working as I had it tested just to be sure.

Any ideas as to what might be draining my battery during the night?

[ghettogeddy]

could be just about anything turn ur car off and check fuse by fuse with a volt meter to see whats still drawing current

[Demon1024]

u check to make sure the tail light (BRAKE lights) aren't on i had this problem. there is a plastic peice that works a button on the brake peddle it breaks off lights stay on. what ghetto say will get it for sure no matter what it is just check all of them

[russiankid]

u check to make sure the tail light (BRAKE lights) aren't on i had this problem. there is a plastic peice that works a button on the brake peddle it breaks off lights stay on. what ghetto say will get it for sure no matter what it is just check all of them

I had this as well, if you do encounter this just put a bolt with a nut in there and its good.

[88Accord-DX]

If the brake light isn't the issue. I've had it happen myself.

Need a DVM (digital volt meter)
Take the negative lead off the battery. Connect the leads between the negative lead & battery post. Notice the current draw & take note if it. Have another person pull the fuses one at a time. When the current draw drops off, that is the circuit more than likely. Personally, I have what is called a 'fuse buddy' for this kind of problem.

PIC for reference.

http://imageserver.isnweb.com/ESI302M.jpg

Circuit testing made EASY! The Fuse Buddy Tester connects directly into the fuse socket, measuring from 0 to 20 Amps. No more clumsy connections at the fuse box, adapter fitting plugs directly into fuse socket and stays put. Removed fuse is plugged into the Fuse Buddy maintaining circuit protection. Great for diagnostic troubleshooting and parasitic drains.

[spacecapsule1]

thanks. i know it isn't the brake lights because i've had to deal with that issue already.

I'll bust out the voltmeter and hit the fuse box as soon as i can. i'll post back with my results.

thanks again
jason

[A18A]

that fuse buddy tool is so cool!

[spacecapsule1]

alright, sorry for taking so long. here's what i've found:

none of the fuses under the dash were the culprits. turns out, the fuse under the hood, labeled "retractor sw", was the offender. it has something to do with the retractor motors, but i forgot what it did. i pulled it, and the lights wouldn't pop back up after they closed or something to that effect. anyhow, i pulled the "retractor sw" fuse and the retractor motor fuses to leave the lights open.i already had the retractor motor fuses pulled, so we'll see how the retractor sw does....

thanks for your help,

we'll see what happens.

[2oodoor]

not that this is your problem, but I had this happen... there is a rubber grommet right at the contact point for the brake light switch, on the brake pedal lever.. this grommet mysteriously dissappeared and the brake light switch button just passes through the hole left by the grommet. BRAKE LIGHTS STAY ON ALL THE TIME
Must be some sort of assembly line test thing for the brake lights.. I just put a pan head screw there so the pedal lever hits the brake light switch.