rear engine mount arm

[mboardman]

I can wiggle the rear engine mount arm a bit - is it supposed to be a little free like that? Or are my rubber bushings worn? I can see and feel the bushings and they dont look worn, but my experience has been motor mounts should be stiff and not moveable. Not so with the 3g?

I do also have what I assumed was a common vibration/shake of the steering wheel at idle (stoplight). Worse in gear, than when in park. Rear mount arm? Id think after 200k the mounts are due.....

[russiankid]

I believe you should not get any movement from the mounts.

[bobafett]

the rear mount has a lame rubber bushing insert in it. It is not very solid at all, and you could easily wiggle the bar a decent amount. seriously you can pop that bushing out with your bare hands if you take that rear mount off, and see just how lame it it....

it is possible that yours is worn out, but in that case i would try to get one from a store, not a junkyard, so you don't run into the same problem again.

if you feel like making that bar actually a little bit stiffer, you can buy 3m 'window weld' and fill all the gaps in that insert with the polyurethane adhesive, and it will make the mount very solid. but this will add a TON of vibration to the cabin. :)

[turabaka]

I had to replace the one on my car not to long ago. It wasn't a big deal really. I was missing the bolt, washer, and nut for mine too. just went to lowes and bought a new bolt. Then went to autozone and bought a bushing. the bushing was 20 and the bolt, washer, and nut were less then 10.

[Blkblurr]

It is supposed to be loose so it doesn't transfer vibration to the firewall. It can however, be dried out. If so, replace the bushing as others already said.

[bobafett]

true, and believe me it does transfer a TON of vibration when you fill the mount. :)

[DBMaster]

Loose must be the normal condition of this mount - assuming you are speaking of the "dog bone" on the top of the engine. I generally think of the lower mount as the "rear" mount. I replaced the bushings in mine and it still has some side to side play.

[mboardman]

yeah, sorry everyone, DBMaster is right - I was referring to the dogbone at the top. Not the lower rear mount. sounds like mine is fine.

[labeledsk8r]

yeah, sorry everyone, DBMaster is right - I was referring to the dogbone at the top. Not the lower rear mount. sounds like mine is fine.


theres a difrence in lose and over lose though aswell, i know back when idid the top end on my accord i figured id order a new one from honda while i was at it and the difrence between a new one and a 17 year old one was a huge difrence, dry rotting and the years can really wear them out, you should be able to move it side to side a little but up and down movement should be limited on that mount.

[w261w261]

I thought mine was loose, and got a new bushing. Turns out that it's supposed to be that way. The new bushing was just the same....it feels very loose but that's normal.

[bobafett]

yeah, if you look at the design of the bushing you can tell it is not meant to be super ridgid.

[AccordEpicenter]

if you are referring to the dogbone mount then yes its supposed to be loose

[labeledsk8r]

theres still a difrence between a dry rotted worn out bushing and a new one, all im saying is there little nub design wares out after time, so checking the bushing might not be a bad idea i would think, it could be alot losser then normal if the mount is bad

[POS carb]

the "dog bone" (torque strut) should have side-to-side play but no up/down or front/rear.
M/T and A/T use the same firewall bushing but different bracket bushing.

[BITESIZE]

What's the bracket bushing look like. I don't remember if i did this during the 5 speed swap.

[POS carb]

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13se00_j36.gif
bushing #9 is different between at and mt
according to this website, the bracket (12,13) is the same