wheel bearing replacement?

[mboardman]

How often have any of you long term owners replaced the wheel bearings?

Looking through my downloaded manual for an 86, I cant say I see the procedure for wheel bearings at all. Supplement also nada. Is it straightforward - a couple of snap rings, and some washers - as is usual? Or is there more to it?

I want to inspect them before a 2 wk cruise across the western US, on my way to visit Vancouver (where they film the new Battlestar Galactica!!). Want to make sure the bearings are good before heading out.

[russiankid]

The bearings are pressed into the hub, so replacing them you would need a press. To my knowledge, my front bearings have almost 149k miles on them and they are fine, my rears i am not sure because i took the spindle off another 3gee, but they spin smooth.

[mboardman]

pressed into the spindle, huh? that would explain the replacement part cost at Oreillys at about $60 each. Bearings are usually only $20 or so a side.

Is it a bitch to get at these and inspect them? Or are they sealed, and thus you cant see them? Found a page in the manual dealing with this, and it looks like a major pia to get to them. First the tire/wheel come off, then the disc brake caliper, then the rotor, then the hub, then a splash gaurd and snap ring. Maybe not too bad. I guess I'll try it. Nothing to lose but my mind.....

[russiankid]

The way i saw my bearings was when i did my wheel studs. I had the hub pressed ou of the knuckle, which i could see the bearing and snap ring. The bearing is sealed.

[Blkblurr]

I replaced mine at 240,000 miles becasue I thought the noise I was hearing was the wheel bearings. Turned out to be the drive shaft which had been replaced 6 months before. The old bearings looked new. I could see no sign of wear.

[mboardman]

I replaced mine at 240,000 miles becasue I thought the noise I was hearing was the wheel bearings. Turned out to be the drive shaft which had been replaced 6 months before.

what was wrong with the driveshaft? How much are those?

[LX-incredible]

You should be able to find the bearings for around $35 each. My passenger side went out at 168 K. The driver side seemed fine, but was replaced as well. With the front of car on jackstands, check for play by rocking the wheel back and forth.

[lostforawhile]

the bearings are a pain,they don't like to come out. you need to remove the entire wishbone from the car, then the hub itself has to be pressed out of the center, then you remove the big snap ring,then the bearing gets pressed out. there is a metal thing that gets hammered into the back of the spindle, it's a dust shield, try to save it as they are sometimes hard to get. there should be nothing wrong with it. best bet is if you aren't used to doing this, take the wishbones off,then take them to a suspension shop and have the bearings changed. you will save the considerable cost of having a garage take the suspension apart then do the work. while you are replacing the bearings,get some new wheel studs,while the spindles are off, you can change all eight in a matter of minutes. if you can, try to get the ARP studs, they are a lot of peace of mind,over the factory studs. your original ones may look fine,but they have undergone a huge amount of fatigue over their life. it's after you do the bearings, is usually when one decides to break while changing a tire. if you don't have a really big shop press i don't recommend changing these bearings yourself. another thing to do while the bearings are being changed, is change the lower ball joints, while the wishbone is out of the car, and the bearings and hub removed,it's really easy to press out and press in new lower ball joints. these take the full weight of the suspension, and they are probably getting tired. they are pretty critical. if i was taking a two week trip i def would feel better with those replaced. of course i replaced everything in my suspension anyway:) so i don't worry about it. you can get the moog lower ball joints from summit racing,for about the same price as cheapo brand ones at the auto parts store. plus the boots are different then any other brand, and they won't crack or split.

[lostforawhile]

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52746&highlight=suspension

[mboardman]

looks like you use epoxy primer. Is that difficult or expensive to work with? can a guy do it in a modest garage?

[Hauntd ca3]

Unless you have access to a twelve ton press, just take it to a garage and let them worry bout it. Am a mechanic for a livin and without the press, you'll be there for a while to get them out with a hammer.

[mboardman]

yeah, got the 12-ton press, I could do it. Just wanted to get all the angles from experienced joes before I tried it on my own. I break things when I just jump into them. I may back off this repair for now. Ive decided to take the Element on the trip instead. more room, younger car, but not as good mpg.

Reading these boards, its easy to get into the spirit of "repairing with the aim of improving the car". I forget I bought this accord as merely a work car. Im going to drive it with minimal input of money in parts, but never forgetting basic maintenance. Once I get back, I intend to jack the car up, one tire at a time, spin the tire and listen for any odd sounds. Then I'll confront the bearing issue.

[mboardman]

You should be able to find the bearings for around $35 each. My passenger side went out at 168 K. The driver side seemed fine, but was replaced as well. With the front of car on jackstands, check for play by rocking the wheel back and forth.

Is this an OEM part price, or the avg Oreillys or Napa replacement part?

I found this hub assy at Oreillys for $119 - looks like it comes with bearing, seal, and new hub with wheel studs. I know I dont need the hub, but is this cost comparable to buying all these parts seperately? Or can I get OEM for about the same price?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/gpi?id=644710224

I need someone to tell me WHERE to go for parts, when price is an issue. Im not the tuner type, Im not lowering this car. I'll likely keep it stock as hell, and just want to keep it safe and reliable as hell. Oreillys parts have usually been good enough for my other vehicles, but I know Hondas can be a bit different at times. Your thoughts?

[mboardman]

ONe more question however - looking closer at the manual (Im just a geek) I notice lubrication points call for Silicone grease? Anyone tell me where to get that? Any old kind will do, or is there something special out there?

[mboardman]

you can get the moog lower ball joints from summit racing,for about the same price as cheapo brand ones at the auto parts store. plus the boots are different then any other brand, and they won't crack or split.

Oreillys lists their house brand lower ball joint for $18 each, while Moog wants $50 each?

[Blkblurr]

what was wrong with the driveshaft? How much are those?
the outer CV joint was bad. It was tight when I took it back out and I assumed the bearings in the cv joint were bad. I got the axle replaced under warranty from Advance Auto.

[LX-incredible]

Is this an OEM part price, or the avg Oreillys or Napa replacement part?

I found this hub assy at Oreillys for $119 - looks like it comes with bearing, seal, and new hub with wheel studs. I know I dont need the hub, but is this cost comparable to buying all these parts seperately? Or can I get OEM for about the same price?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/gpi?id=644710224

I need someone to tell me WHERE to go for parts, when price is an issue. Im not the tuner type, Im not lowering this car. I'll likely keep it stock as hell, and just want to keep it safe and reliable as hell. Oreillys parts have usually been good enough for my other vehicles, but I know Hondas can be a bit different at times. Your thoughts?

What you found at oreillys sounds like the rear hub. You can get those for under $70 at RockAuto.com. http://www.autohausaz.com/ had the best price on front wheel bearings at the time. Try to go with Koyo, NSK, and other OEM suppliers. They are pennies more and will last.

[lostforawhile]

Oreillys lists their house brand lower ball joint for $18 each, while Moog wants $50 each?
that front lower ball joint is one of the most critical parts in the suspension,your steering pivots on it, now which ones do you want auto parts store ones or some of the best parts in the world,the moog ones?

[lostforawhile]

looks like you use epoxy primer. Is that difficult or expensive to work with? can a guy do it in a modest garage?yea thats epoxy primer,you could do it yourself, but you HAVE to have the proper cartridge
proper fitting respirator. that stuff can really hurt you bad. it can harden in your lungs just like it does on the part. and i see people spraying it without protection. idiots is all i can say. the only thing is you have to have the proper mixing cups and have to understand how to mix it.