odyssey battery

[lostforawhile]

has anyone on here used the odyssey battery? i have looked at it over the optima and there are huge advantages to using it. weight is just one small one. I was originally going to put a battery in a sealed box in the spare tire well,but after figuring up the cost of the box,the wiring needed, and the optima battery, i decided to put the much smaller and more compact odyssey battery where the existing washer tank is now,under the bumper. this battery is small as far as dimensions,but it's more then enough for the three g. the one i am going to use is the 925 t,it's listed as a 925,the t just designates terminals. I just talked to the guy at odyssey batteries,and he said fot this size motor,and the accessories i have this is more then adequate for my applications. most of the time,the alternator powers the system anyway,the battery is really for starting only. here is the link to their site. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/
the dimensions of the one i am getting are 6.64 length,7.03 long, 5.04 height. and it only weighs 26 pounds. these can be mounted in any direction except upside down,and they are non spillable. think optima battery smaller. this battery from summit is around 150. the other advantage is that they can be run down to nothing over and over like a deep cycle but they act like a normal battery too. now i just need to go water that money tree i planted in the back yard. sigh.

[Hauntd ca3]

Either the optima or oddessy batts are bloody brilliant.
Have seen both mounted upside down without any probs.
I think you can get a batt called son of optima which is way small
but still has 650 cca.
for what it cost to run the + cable from fuse box to the boot, i'd stick it there
on the right hand corner for weight dist purposes. i think you can buy a batt called power beat.
Has two sets of plates. one for starting and another to hook up you're stereo
to.
Can run the stereo till it stops and still start the car

[AccordB20A]

helli thought "wtf" when i saw this thread, at first i thought you meanty a battery out of a honda odyssey hahah had me confused. but yes good for relocating your battery to the boot

[2ndGenGuy]

You seen the Braille brand batteries? They brag about being small and light weight. And from what I've read, they're great batteries.

Here's their 6lb racing battery... Pretty cool IMO. Probably what I'll pick up one of their batteries for my next one.
http://www.brailleauto.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=16&idproduct=8

[Deusdeceptor]

That braille is lightweight but doesnt have enough output if you are gonna run anything with a sound system inside.

Similar model is the Odyssey PC680 it goes for about 90-100 bucks.

I Have a Optima Yellowtop on my LXi.

It is a Deep Cycle SPIRAL cell (not not dry cell).

My Audio setup for was very demanding:

1. Diamond Audio Hex 600s Component fronts powered by PPI 2200 (200watts RMS by 2 channel)
2. MB Quartz Rears powered by PUNCH 4080 (Rockford fosgate before they went gay --1994ish model) (80 watts RMS x 2 channel)
3. JL Audio W7 13.5 Inch Sub Powered by JL Audio 1000.1 amp. (1000watts RMSmono)

So i was running 1560 watts RMS. I used a pair of 1 farad caps in parallel but that did not work. The JL 1000.1 would shut down due to low wattage and would wait about 1-2 secs before it charges up to enough power for it to hit the bass again. After I replaced it with my Optima Yellowtop. That solved the problem for awhile. I was really happy with it for six months and then the problem happened again. My verdict? Yellowtops dont hold up to well to too much stress. It gets weaker and weaker very QUICK!

So on my Supra, I got the Odyssey PC1200 from West Coast which was local to me. It only cost me 40 bucks than how much I spent on the yellowtop (Wholesale pricing). I'm very happy with it. It works very well. It is a true DRY CELL battery and is safe to be stored in the drivers cabin. I relocated it with 0 gauge wiring from front to the back. It cranks up all the time.

+1 for odyssey

-1 for optima.

[lostforawhile]

That braille is lightweight but doesnt have enough output if you are gonna run anything with a sound system inside.

Similar model is the Odyssey PC680 it goes for about 90-100 bucks.

I Have a Optima Yellowtop on my LXi.

It is a Deep Cycle SPIRAL cell (not not dry cell).

My Audio setup for was very demanding:

1. Diamond Audio Hex 600s Component fronts powered by PPI 2200 (200watts RMS by 2 channel)
2. MB Quartz Rears powered by PUNCH 4080 (Rockford fosgate before they went gay --1994ish model) (80 watts RMS x 2 channel)
3. JL Audio W7 13.5 Inch Sub Powered by JL Audio 1000.1 amp. (1000watts RMSmono)

So i was running 1560 watts RMS. I used a pair of 1 farad caps in parallel but that did not work. The JL 1000.1 would shut down due to low wattage and would wait about 1-2 secs before it charges up to enough power for it to hit the bass again. After I replaced it with my Optima Yellowtop. That solved the problem for awhile. I was really happy with it for six months and then the problem happened again. My verdict? Yellowtops dont hold up to well to too much stress. It gets weaker and weaker very QUICK!

So on my Supra, I got the Odyssey PC1200 from West Coast which was local to me. It only cost me 40 bucks than how much I spent on the yellowtop (Wholesale pricing). I'm very happy with it. It works very well. It is a true DRY CELL battery and is safe to be stored in the drivers cabin. I relocated it with 0 gauge wiring from front to the back. It cranks up all the time.

+1 for odyssey

-1 for optima. the name "dry cell" in this case means different then the type of battery you put in your walkman, it's actually a starved electrolyte type of battery, it has sulphuric acid, but it's trapped in the battery like an optima, all gasses are reabsorbed by the battery and recycled. they really aren't safe to be in the cabin,unless they have the steel shield that goes with them,the person at odyssey explained this to me. but as far as my location it's excellent. one thing thats really important is to put in a voltmeter and kind of keep your eye on your charging system, normally it's fine,but if you have a charging system problem, and it goes over 15 volts, the emergency vent on the battery will open causing it to lose acid and hydrogen and this will make the battery fail. all of this info is in the tech section on their site. if you need to recharge it from dead, you also need to use one of the chargers they recommend, a regular battery charger cannot bring one of these batteries completly back from dead,they will bring it most of the way back,but not all the way back. they also warn about using garage cart chargers,if they exceed 15 volts while charging it will damage the battery. i would get one of the portable chargers they say to use and keep it in the trunk for emergencies. as far as the yellow top, the reason it went dead, they are not designed to operate in a vechicle charging system, they are designed to completly discharge, then rechage slowly over a matter of time with a charger designed for deep cycle batteries, the high current charging system in a car,is made to partly recharge a standard starting battery. a deep cycle takes low current over a long period of time. thats why on a boat for example,you have a red top for starting, and yellow tops to run the trolling motors. the yellow tops do not charge from the boats electrical system,unless you have a special onboard chager that runs off of the boats electrical system and controls the charge rate.

[Deusdeceptor]

uh.yellowtop never went dead. Just its propensity to deliver enough power to my demanding system dropped off dramatically from when it was new. Worked well when few months new, but after a few months, it is not worth the extra money to buy it. Ive read many other quality issues about Optima yellowtops but what I will tell you is from personal experience and not "heresay".

+1 for odyssey

[mushroom_toy]

Why not just go ahead and relocate the battery. I ended up having to do it cause my cai was too big. I dont have mine sealed, but I used the stock battery tie down and everything and its bolted to the floor. Total cost was $12 for 4guage wire and terminals. Pictures are in my update thread. I'll be getting one of those marine battery boxes at wallmart for like $4. It'll work for all im going to use it for.

[lostforawhile]

Why not just go ahead and relocate the battery. I ended up having to do it cause my cai was too big. I dont have mine sealed, but I used the stock battery tie down and everything and its bolted to the floor. Total cost was $12 for 4guage wire and terminals. Pictures are in my update thread. I'll be getting one of those marine battery boxes at wallmart for like $4. It'll work for all im going to use it for.because it's really not safe to put a standard battery in the hatch,there is no trunk so it's inside the car. that means it has to go in a sealed box in the hatch,which is bolted down, and then you have to run the wire and everything. the original J clamps are not safe to hold that battery down inside the car,in the event of a wreck they will snap and the battery will go flying forward at whatever speed you happen to be traveling at the time. it can eaisily kill you. there have been a lot of people killed by batteries secured down inside of a car with j clamps. or not secured at all. even if it's inside a trunk, a 40 pound battery can go right through that thin sheet metal in a collision. i remember a fith gear episode where they tested this, they put a 30 pound tool box in a trunk with fold down seats and crashed the car at 20 miles an hour, the tool box knocked the seats out of the way and knocked the dummies head completly off. even bags of groceries in the car can be deadly in a wreck. the point is unless you have that battery in a proper box and it's bolted down to the car with doubling plates,or the mounting plate is welded in,it's just not safe. you also should have a main fuse within six inches of the battery. i think putting the odyssey battery which is lighter and smaller,in that hole behind the bumper corner is a much better idea. that way it's out of the passenger compartment.

[lostforawhile]

this is from east nissan tuning, read this and look at the rest of the article after reading this,then you will understand that a battery held in with j bolts,or bungee cords,or tie down straps etc. isn't safe.
TRUNK BATTERY WARNING!!! 3:49 PM 11/5/2006

I know everyone in this section has a trunk mounted battery.

Just wanted to take a minute and make sure everybody knows how much force a 40lb car battery will create in an accident and make sure everybody has theirs adequatly bolted down.

To give you an idea - my bus partned rear ended someone in our cargo van ~ 30MPH. We had a steel bulk head that seperated him from the cargo. In this case the cargo is 5 gal bag in box syrup for soda fountains ~ 55lbs.

The bulk head is bolted to the body all around and managed to stop the flying box of syrup but was absolutely mangled as if it was hit by cannon fire. Had it not been bolted, I have no doubt it would have folded in half and killed the driver.

Trust me when I tell you that it boggles the mind how much force a 40lb car battery will create in an accident. If you think the back seat will stop it, you are not even close.

Some thing to consider.



The original goal with mine,was to put it inside of the spare tire well,in a moroso box,surrounded by a steel enclosure,then the top of the spare tire covered with a welded in steel plate,with a bolt down cover. this way would be safe,this is close to what modern factory rear moundted batteries do.
now read the REST of the article......
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/207593

[mushroom_toy]

Yeah i read that, but it is about as safe as having a screwdriver or anything just laying around in your car. The truth is anything can kill you. Im pretty sure that the way my battery is positioned, with the stutbar in the way, with the battery bolted to the floor with 4 bolts, and i seem to think the j clamps will hold. Even then I am going to be redoing this once i water my money tree as well. Not enough cash to do everything at once.

Also in a front impact, the j clamps usually do not break, so why would this be true in a different situation. I have been in two cars with these style clamps that have been totaled, and they have not broken.

[Vanilla Sky]

The battery also generally has more other support in the front. And yeah, the J-bolts that hold my batt down have stretched significantly from a very minor crash.

Since my car will need a batt soon, I'm going to follow with Tim's plan a bit. It's a really great idea and we really should look into this as a very good alternative to a trunk relocation.

[lostforawhile]

The battery also generally has more other support in the front. And yeah, the J-bolts that hold my batt down have stretched significantly from a very minor crash.

Since my car will need a batt soon, I'm going to follow with Tim's plan a bit. It's a really great idea and we really should look into this as a very good alternative to a trunk relocation.it can be fitted to the passenger side easier then the drivers side,i just happen to have a blower on that side so i have to relocate the washer tank.

[Vanilla Sky]

I plan on ducting cool air from the passenger side. Wire is easier to route than the tubing for a cool air intake.