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View Full Version : Difference in parts Accord 1989 2.0ex-i USDM vs. Accord 1988 2.0i-16 EDM



cyra
10-08-2007, 02:00 AM
I´m standing before decision to keep or to let go my red Accord 1988 2.0-16 EDM. The situation is, that I will probably have to give it for free to some Honda freak, because it is not saleable, or, leave it standing in my garden and use parts for my 2.0ex-i USDM. Have you any idea, how much are these two different in spare parts? I know engine is totally different :-), the edm is 4 disc brake ALB, and has no popup lights, but the rest - suspension, clutch?, transmision?, axles/arms, bearings, motor mounts?

A18A
10-08-2007, 02:13 AM
:O i wish i could get the gearbox from the 2.0i-16 :O

MessyHonda
10-08-2007, 01:20 PM
send me your engine.

AccordB20A
10-08-2007, 02:31 PM
everyones gunna want your engine. even more if your gearbox is a 5 speed. buy another 3g accord and put the engine and gearbox in it thats what i recon will be ftw.

carotman
10-09-2007, 08:09 AM
everything should be mostly the same except what's related to the engine/transmission.

You could upgrade wht EX-i with stuff from the i-16.

At least the EX-i has the power options, sunroof and EFI. If swaps are legal where you live. I would transfer the engine then the 4wALB. Swap the under hood insulator.

Baiscaly, just make the best of both cars into one. At least you got a flip light sedan now!!!

epic1400cs
10-09-2007, 06:40 PM
I´m standing before decision to keep or to let go my red Accord 1988 2.0-16 EDM. The situation is, that I will probably have to give it for free to some Honda freak, because it is not saleable, or, leave it standing in my garden and use parts for my 2.0ex-i USDM. Have you any idea, how much are these two different in spare parts? I know engine is totally different :-), the edm is 4 disc brake ALB, and has no popup lights, but the rest - suspension, clutch?, transmision?, axles/arms, bearings, motor mounts?
As far as I understand, the suspension is almost the same=swappable.
They say there is very slight difference in their spring rate or damping rate between the market but they are swappable no problem at all.
I am not familier with your EX-i (is that Canadian model?) but 88 2.0-16 EUDM comes with larger front disk same as USDM later model.
You should be able to fit them into your car with knuckle (if your car has smaller discs) but if your car has large vent front disc they are the same.
I think the 2.0-16 come with black interior which is very nice and the seats are slightly more deeper bucket type than normal ones.
I would definately keep that whole interior.

I don't recommend 4W ALB though.
They are not as good as todays ABS and if the parts (pump for example) goes wrong, it will be very expensive and may not be able to get parts easily.
Also needs special tools to do breeding the ALB system and they are just a headache!

cyra
10-16-2007, 10:17 AM
The black one is canadian model, very late 1989, as far as I know, my uncle was deciding if not to buy a 4g already, vented front disc and drum brakes back

With the engine, I dont feel it that easy. B20A8 is 136hp, screaming 7000rpm, a lot of power in the upper part of rpm range BUT A20A3 (at least mine) is definitely better for normal street riding. Working from 1800rpm, more quiet, MUCH more efficient, more balanced over the whole rpm range......

epic1400cs
10-20-2007, 02:58 AM
The black one is canadian model, very late 1989, as far as I know, my uncle was deciding if not to buy a 4g already, vented front disc and drum brakes back

With the engine, I dont feel it that easy. B20A8 is 136hp, screaming 7000rpm, a lot of power in the upper part of rpm range BUT A20A3 (at least mine) is definitely better for normal street riding. Working from 1800rpm, more quiet, MUCH more efficient, more balanced over the whole rpm range......
Then the front brake should be the same and I would keep the calipers at least, whole knuckle if possible for spare. Rear brake swap should be the same procedure as US models and there are tons of article on this site. ALB is the slight difference but substantially the difference on the each suspension is additional sensor attached to it or not so you can simply remove the sensor(correct me if I am wrong).

For the engine, it is really up to the preference of the owner I think. But from my point of view, B20A has aluminum block compare to A20A's iron block = almost same weight even B20A has big twincam head which is amazing. In fact this engine is so good that Mugen is still supplying Formula 3 engines called MF204 based on this. If you decided not to use the B20A, I am sure there are many people who wants B20A in Canada I am sure so please don't trash it!

MessyHonda
10-20-2007, 04:25 PM
With the engine, I dont feel it that easy. B20A8 is 136hp, screaming 7000rpm, a lot of power in the upper part of rpm range BUT A20A3 (at least mine) is definitely better for normal street riding. Working from 1800rpm, more quiet, MUCH more efficient, more balanced over the whole rpm range......



you are right...the a20 can take a good amount of abuse. yesterday it took 26 miles to tune my car with a stage 2 cam. it got ran hard... it was very loud...the people with american cars were like tell us when it blows. but it didnt....i was happy...and damn proud of my engine.