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View Full Version : TW: Distributor adaptor plate GB?



Secondaries
10-08-2007, 09:19 PM
I've been trying to figure out for a while how I wanted to install the F22 distributor for my OBD1 conversion. I want to keep the engine capable of being reverted back to stock, so I've settled on the idea of an adaptor plate. Using the eMachineShop software, I drew up a sketch of this plate with rough estimate measurements, but a one off plate is expensive - eMachineShop quotes me $219 for a single plate. But that price drops off DRASTICALLY when the number goes up. For 10 plates, the price is $55.25. For 50, it goes to $42.51 each. For 100, the price is $29.56!!

The piece I've designed is in 4140 Steel. I originally tried to get them to quote me in 6061 Aluminum, but the program told me that the material wasn't suitable for the machining that was asked of it (specifically, threading).

I'm including an image to give you an idea, but please note: This is without any real measurements taken. I'll measure the exact hole dimensions for the head and clock the F22 dizzy mount holes to just the right angle, but this is a simple quick n' dirty to get a quote. The price shouldn't change when I correct the measurements.

I just wanted to gauge interest in a group buy on these. I don't want to spend $220 on this plate, and I'd like everyone to get in on it also. If nobody's interested, I think I'll just buy a mini drillpress and make my own. But if you are, I can take this drawing to a few local shops to get quotes. If they are about as much as eMachineShop, I can just go through them for simplicity's sake. Please, let me know guys. I guess I'll throw a poll up there.

Also, I'll draw up a cam key spacer also, and that'll probably cost a few bucks more, but before I go through the trouble, let's see who is going to be seriously interested.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1906/adaptorplateroughbq5.th.gif (http://img525.imageshack.us/my.php?image=adaptorplateroughbq5.gif)

EDIT: Oh yes. Please don't view my 38 post count as belonging to some guy trying to scam you guys. I've got over 1,900 posts on PreludePower. I've been a member there for 5 years now, and to alleviate any kind of fear, I'm going to put my info right out there.

Shawn Ahmad
12118 Sela Ln.
Houston, TX 77072
Home: (281) 575-1191
Cell: (832) 338-2121

If this goes through and I flake out, I want EVERYONE close to me to come and beat the crap out of me! But that is NOT going to happen.

ghettogeddy
10-08-2007, 09:25 PM
im def interested

MessyHonda
10-08-2007, 11:30 PM
cool i would get one also...but the plate would not help alot you will still need to grind part of the distributor so it can clear the water pipe behind it.

ghettogeddy
10-08-2007, 11:34 PM
cool i would get one also...but the plate would not help alot you will still need to grind part of the distributor so it can clear the water pipe behind it.

better then cutting the ears off and we welding them lol

MessyHonda
10-08-2007, 11:45 PM
better then cutting the ears off and we welding them lol



i dont think 10 people would do it also....you would need to have at least 500 bucks to do this swap. i got my parts cheap but here is a break down.

stock 4th gen distributor if bought new or reman ~185
conversion harness~110
ECU~150-200
adapter plate if 10 people buy~60 bucks shipped.
Dyno tunning~100bucks per hour plus tunner (may take up to 2-3 hours)

ghettogeddy
10-08-2007, 11:48 PM
i dont think 10 people would do it also....you would need to have at least 500 bucks to do this swap. i got my parts cheap but here is a break down.

stock 4th gen distributor if bought new or reman ~185
conversion harness~110
ECU~150-200
adapter plate if 10 people buy~60 bucks shipped.
Dyno tunning~100bucks per hour plus tunner (may take up to 2-3 hours)

at the price some of the current obd 1 users might want one for a cleaner look and it like 60 bucks thats nothing lol

MessyHonda
10-08-2007, 11:52 PM
at the price some of the current obd 1 users might want one for a cleaner look and it like 60 bucks thats nothing lol

my swap looks every OEM. i have a high chance of passing visual on my car.

we only have 4 running OBD1 swaps on A20s nation wide that i know of

Guayanabo
Ericw
Openloops car
MessyHonda mobile

maybe some one else

ghettogeddy
10-08-2007, 11:54 PM
my swap looks every OEM. i have a high chance of passing visual on my car.

we only have 4 running OBD1 swaps on A20s nation wide that i know of

Guayanabo
Ericw
Openloops car
MessyHonda mobile

maybe some one else

most of the turno guys are obd 1 arent they or are they stand alone

MessyHonda
10-09-2007, 12:01 AM
most of the turno guys are obd 1 arent they or are they stand alone



i dont want to F* post whore...but damn geddy...only guy one stand alone is some guy over at prelude power that has a 2nd gen cyruris or something like that. 87 prelude still had a vac advance dizzy, bobafet has been taking his time doing the obd1 or stand alone option. Eliah( i dont remember what he was running but im prety sure it was not obd1 but i could be wrong) a20a3 just has a turbo manifold...im not sure what management accordentepricer(sp?) is running im sure johnny O and jason bud had stand alone on the car.

ghettogeddy
10-09-2007, 12:21 AM
well that adds a possible 4 people lol
and u dont want to post whore lol thats a first

MessyHonda
10-09-2007, 12:28 AM
well that adds a possible 4 people lol
and u dont want to post whore lol thats a first



4?

:wtf:

ghettogeddy
10-09-2007, 12:32 AM
4?

:wtf:
whatever im interested anyone else

bobafett
10-09-2007, 06:42 AM
another thing you guys might want to look into is designing this adapter plate, and having somebody like aaron weir build them for us. I am not sure if he would even do it, but it might be cheaper than e-machineshop pricing, and more we probably wouldn't need more than 10 to get him started with it.

food for thought anyway, this is his email: [email protected]

I think this is an awesome idea!

Chuoiz
10-09-2007, 08:50 AM
I'm interested...I like simplicity..

2drSE-i
10-09-2007, 08:58 AM
im interested, but id need the cam key along with it. It would also be necessary to make a spacer in between the cam end and distributor end.

bobafett
10-09-2007, 09:02 AM
and by creating a cam end spacer you could build the offset angle into the spacer, so that you wouldn't need to re-index the key. :) that would be a much more elegant solution imo...

2drSE-i
10-09-2007, 09:09 AM
and by creating a cam end spacer you could build the offset angle into the spacer, so that you wouldn't need to re-index the key. :) that would be a much more elegant solution imo...

that actually makes a lot of sense. The 4g distributor key is 90 degrees off of ours right? i also had a question about timing, i think someone in here could answer me. 3g distributor should be adjusted to 15 degrees BTDC, where as the 4g should be adjusted to 4 degrees BTDC. What would we adjust it to, 4g specs or 3g specs?

Secondaries
10-09-2007, 12:17 PM
From what I understand, it can be mounted so it isn't off. But I will figure out how best to mount it, angle wise, and I'll draw up the cam key spacer to account for any rotational difference. No modifications whatsoever will have to be performed! Just bolt up and tune!

MessyHonda
10-09-2007, 12:33 PM
From what I understand, it can be mounted so it isn't off. But I will figure out how best to mount it, angle wise, and I'll draw up the cam key spacer to account for any rotational difference. No modifications whatsoever will have to be performed! Just bolt up and tune!



yup....i know openloop had made a custom mount plate that could be dont with a piece of sheetmetal

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/984741_7umof/3.jpg

LX-incredible
10-09-2007, 01:01 PM
i dont think 10 people would do it also....you would need to have at least 500 bucks to do this swap. i got my parts cheap but here is a break down.

stock 4th gen distributor if bought new or reman ~185
conversion harness~110
ECU~150-200
adapter plate if 10 people buy~60 bucks shipped.
Dyno tunning~100bucks per hour plus tunner (may take up to 2-3 hours)

I just got a dizzy at the jy for $30. They are selling them new for $109:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AEOIBSAA%3AUS%3A11&viewitem=&item=190158612091 $98.10 when you use the discount code "hondatech"

All the connectors are easily made free with deep pockets. Someone with a soldering iron and a little experience can bulid the harness. The real problem is mounting the dizzy.

If we go through with this, I will buy two adaptor plates with cam spacers.

LX-incredible
10-09-2007, 01:09 PM
yup....i know openloop had made a custom mount plate that could be dont with a piece of sheetmetal

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/984741_7umof/3.jpg

Doesn't it hit the water pipe below the distributor when mounted like that? I've noticed on mine that there is a drain on the bottom that would no longer be on the bottom when rotated...

cygnus x-1
10-09-2007, 02:34 PM
I'll just throw in some random thoughts I had before I went off the deep end into Megasquirt land with a distributor-less ignition, and was considering doing a swap to an electronic dizzy.

It *might* be easier to use a dizzy from a 3g Prelude instead of a 4g Accord. From what I could tell they have basically the same guts but the 3g Prelude dizzy is the same size as an A20 dizzy. So it might be a little easier fit. Probably not as plentiful as the 4g Accords though.

An adapter plate is a good idea but I'm wondering about how you are going to do the spacer. Would it maybe be easier to just make a new longer key?

C|

EricW
10-09-2007, 07:14 PM
I'm interested in this, It would allow me to mount my distributor closer to the head. And I may not have to make custom plug wires any more.

LX-incredible
10-09-2007, 07:48 PM
I'll just throw in some random thoughts I had before I went off the deep end into Megasquirt land with a distributor-less ignition, and was considering doing a swap to an electronic dizzy.

It *might* be easier to use a dizzy from a 3g Prelude instead of a 4g Accord. From what I could tell they have basically the same guts but the 3g Prelude dizzy is the same size as an A20 dizzy. So it might be a little easier fit. Probably not as plentiful as the 4g Accords though.

An adapter plate is a good idea but I'm wondering about how you are going to do the spacer. Would it maybe be easier to just make a new longer key?

C|

Weren't most of those still obd 0? A new, longer cam key seems like the best plan to me.

guaynabo89
10-09-2007, 08:15 PM
You can mount the dizzy without doing anythign to the key if you mount it like this.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/984741_7umof/3.jpg





All you have to do is bend/shorten etc the hardpipe coming out of the cylinder head so that it clears the distibutor. Then either use some brackets to hold on the distributor or make a thin adapter plate like openloop did. It looks like thin sheetmetal so it probably didnt push the distributor back at all.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/sinnedone/100_2089c.jpg



And what do you mean not clean!

I think this looks very clean.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g311/sinnedone321/DSC00006.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g311/sinnedone321/DSC00005.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/sinnedone/Picture2716.jpg

LX-incredible
10-09-2007, 08:33 PM
It looks clean because you had the tabs cut off and re-welded. I also remember you having to re-drill the key. What we are looking for is a kit that allows us to bolt up a 4g dizzy without bending pipes, modifying the distributor, or using tin to hold it in place.

guaynabo89
10-09-2007, 08:41 PM
Well its definately doable.

The sad part is like anything most people on this site either have no money or no interest.


An adapter plate with a key extension is a simple machining job and depending on your local shops should probaly be around 100 give or take being made out of aluminum.

Now the hard part is the R&D to make sure the distributor sits in a way where it wont hit either the tstat housing or the water pipe on the head and will position it corectly to start the car.

LX-incredible
10-09-2007, 09:33 PM
What if a plate was made to bolt over both the distributor mounting and the water outlet? 5 recessed bolts would be used to bolt it to the head. The thermostat housing could then be offset to clear the distributor and studs used to hold the housing and dizzy to the plate. I'm going try mocking one up out of wood in the next day or so and post pictures.

mushroom_toy
10-09-2007, 09:34 PM
Ill bend the water pipe...I just want an adapter plate like on openloops car. With that one the key doesnt have to be lengthened, just redrilled. Correct?

2drSE-i
10-10-2007, 07:52 AM
From what I understand, it can be mounted so it isn't off. But I will figure out how best to mount it, angle wise, and I'll draw up the cam key spacer to account for any rotational difference. No modifications whatsoever will have to be performed! Just bolt up and tune!

sounds good man!

Secondaries
10-10-2007, 09:21 AM
What if a plate was made to bolt over both the distributor mounting and the water outlet? 5 recessed bolts would be used to bolt it to the head. The thermostat housing could then be offset to clear the distributor and studs used to hold the housing and dizzy to the plate. I'm going try mocking one up out of wood in the next day or so and post pictures.

With his design I believe you still had to modify the distributor to allow it to clear bolts and parts of the water outlet and/or thermostat housing. It's been so long since I've seen most of the pics though, so I don't remember off the top of my head.

Also, five bolts? There's only three bolts that mout the distributor to the head, and what benefit would there be to bolting it to the water outlet also?

The design is still open, so I can definitely make changes that will make things easier.

LX-incredible
10-10-2007, 09:40 AM
If you use thick enough plate, you can machine the hole for the water outlet diagonally, bringing it further to the left of the dizzy. The other two bolts would go in place of the thermostat housing studs and would be recessed into the plate.

2drSE-i
10-10-2007, 10:22 AM
personally i think it would be easier to just mount the distributor upside down, seeing as how its gonna need a cam extension anyway. That way there wouldnt be any extra machining needed to clear the water pipe or tstat

cygnus x-1
10-10-2007, 10:39 AM
Weren't most of those still obd 0? A new, longer cam key seems like the best plan to me.

Don't know. But I do know that on the FI 3g Preludes there was no vacuum or centrifugal advance. So they were electronically controlled. Which is what you guys are after correct?

I even picked one up from the junkyard to mess with. I don't have a 4g Accord dizzy for comparison but I can measure and take pictures and stuff of this 3g Prelude dizzy if you want.

C|

2drSE-i
10-10-2007, 10:48 AM
Don't know. But I do know that on the FI 3g Preludes there was no vacuum or centrifugal advance. So they were electronically controlled. Which is what you guys are after correct?

I even picked one up from the junkyard to mess with. I don't have a 4g Accord dizzy for comparison but I can measure and take pictures and stuff of this 3g Prelude dizzy if you want.

C|

how does it mount to the prelude? Y or updside down Y?

LX-incredible
10-10-2007, 11:05 AM
personally i think it would be easier to just mount the distributor upside down, seeing as how its gonna need a cam extension anyway. That way there wouldnt be any extra machining needed to clear the water pipe or tstat The thermostat housing and one of it's nuts will still need to be ground, no matter how it's mounted. What I'm trying to build will move it over enough so no grinding is required. It's really only going to be a plate with 7 holes through it and 5 studs. The lower water pipe will still be in the way to mount it in the "stock" position, but it will be close enough. I'm starting to mock one up now...

2drSE-i
10-10-2007, 11:12 AM
The thermostat housing and one of it's nuts will still need to be ground, no matter how it's mounted. What I'm trying to build will move it over enough so no grinding is required. It's really only going to be a plate with 7 holes through it and 5 studs. The lower water pipe will still be in the way to mount it in the "stock" position, but it will be close enough. I'm starting to mock one up now...

i was under the impression that if you mounted the 4g dist upside down that it would clear everything, and you would just need to redrill the cam key? maybe i was mistaken.

2oodoor
10-10-2007, 11:17 AM
I am interested, but undecided.. I could probably make this but I was thinking of crank triggered set up. I am still R & D ideas about dual point dizzy, Escort EDIS too.

LX-incredible
10-10-2007, 01:41 PM
i was under the impression that if you mounted the 4g dist upside down that it would clear everything, and you would just need to redrill the cam key? maybe i was mistaken.
I tried bro. It will hit the thermostat housing in any position and when mounted upside down it will hit the lower water pipe. I'm almost done with the wooden mock up. It came out much simpler than I thought, it should solve our problems...

bobafett
10-10-2007, 03:50 PM
pics?

LX-incredible
10-10-2007, 06:36 PM
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2786/dap1nx9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7925/dap2vg1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2118/dap3qd9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/681/dap4tz9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/379/dap5ld0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/249/dap6ss5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/618/dap7gf9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/63/dap8vb8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5576/dap9pv4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5849/dap10bc7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

LX-incredible
10-10-2007, 06:47 PM
And the last one:
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/9384/dap11pk0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

It's actually a piece of wood painted silver to hide my scribbles. The recessed holes aren't really necessary, so that would cut production costs a bit. As you can see the thermostat housing is offset towards where the EGR tube should be. You will either need to use a b series intake manifold, or cut and weld the EGR port. I am using an aftermarket B18 manifold, which I cut off the 1/2" or so that overhangs the water outlet.

Secondaries
10-10-2007, 06:50 PM
So you want the design to be extended to include the water pipe opening? It's doable but beyond my abilities with this software. I'm going to take a spare cylinder head to school and see if I can get either an upper level MECT bud, or a TA or someone to help me out with a real CAD drawing.

Secondaries
10-10-2007, 06:53 PM
Looking at that shopping list of modifications your idea would require, I think I'd rather just counterbore the flange of the thermostat housing and use a narrower hex-head fastener. That would be a LOT cheaper and simpler than going through using extra gaskets and risking serious leaks with your design.

LX-incredible
10-10-2007, 07:35 PM
The only modification would be to the intake manifold. If you have a b series manifold, it would only be minor grinding. Many that are running them have already removed this piece.

MessyHonda
10-10-2007, 11:21 PM
yeah my next step is to get a b-series mani so i can get rid of my EGR

Secondaries
10-11-2007, 12:31 AM
Without EGR, many of our cars will not pass inspection. Does the B-series manifold have the EGR but in a relocated area? My plans require my car to pass emissions tests...

2oodoor
10-11-2007, 03:36 AM
Excellant work LX!
At first I was thinking, dam that is thick as hell, but its a model.. lol
Since I am carbed and plan to stay that way, my ideas are still modified ign, and different timing curves>for possible forced induction at some point.

bobafett
10-11-2007, 06:42 AM
pretty sweet man! 1/2" spacer from aluminum shouldn't be that difficult to build. I think the 1/2" almost will be necessary in order to offset the thermostat housing, but I like that idea a lot. :)

2drSE-i
10-11-2007, 08:47 AM
i like the thermostat spacing idea, i just dont think it would seal properly...

EricW
10-11-2007, 09:26 AM
i like the thermostat spacing idea, i just dont think it would seal properly...

It will if you put a d shaped notch in the back for the thermostat housing O ring.

The only problems that i see with the plate is the cam key and the seal on the end of the distributor. Which a new longer one could be made with the key turned the correct number of degrees or another spacer between the cam and key but it would need to be supported somehow. The plate would need to be O-ringed there also or some other method of making it seal, or do it the lazy way and use some Hi Temp silicone.

cygnus x-1
10-11-2007, 10:20 AM
how does it mount to the prelude? Y or updside down Y?

I believe it was right side up Y; just like on the A20A3. I'll dig it out when I get home from work.

C|

LX-incredible
10-11-2007, 01:18 PM
Okay maybe I made the EGR issue sound a little bigger than it actually is.

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/7336/egr1pu5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/2505/egr2ge7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

You can easily modify the manifold to keep the EGR. You will need to remove the a stud and cut what's required off of the manifold and egr tube. It seemed pretty solid with just the one stud, but I'm not going to recommend it. I drilled a new hole in the tube flange, drilled and threaded the manifold, and installed the other.

LX-incredible
10-11-2007, 01:52 PM
pretty sweet man! 1/2" spacer from aluminum shouldn't be that difficult to build. I think the 1/2" almost will be necessary in order to offset the thermostat housing, but I like that idea a lot. :)

What I used was 3/4" thick. We might be able to go smaller, but the size of the water passage would need to be reduced as well...

LX-incredible
10-11-2007, 02:01 PM
It will if you put a d shaped notch in the back for the thermostat housing O ring.

The only problems that i see with the plate is the cam key and the seal on the end of the distributor. Which a new longer one could be made with the key turned the correct number of degrees or another spacer between the cam and key but it would need to be supported somehow. The plate would need to be O-ringed there also or some other method of making it seal, or do it the lazy way and use some Hi Temp silicone. I think the silicone would be good enough. The notch and D ring seem like a good idea, but let's not forget that the stock D ring doesn't do such a great job at sealing when it gets older. Perhaps an opportunity to improve?

cygnus x-1
10-11-2007, 04:42 PM
The Prelude dizzy I have mounts as a right side up Y. It has 4 wires: 2 for a 4 tooth reluctor and 2 for a 24 tooth reluctor. I have no idea if that makes it OBD1 compatible or not. From reading on the web it appears that Preludes with the B21A1 were in fact OBD1, where the B20A3/5 were OBD0. I don't remember what this dizzy I have came out of though.

C|

guaynabo89
10-11-2007, 08:10 PM
You can use any distributor that has the cam, crank, cyl sensors in it.

Some of those other distributors dont have vacuum advance but they also only have 2 of the sensors in the distributors and the third on the other camshaft.


I like your idea fr the adapter plate but its going to be costly. Especially made out of alum.

The thermostat housing has to be grinded but only a little. Its not that big a deal.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d729b3127ccebb4aa841657c00000036100IbNGjZu3bsQ

LX-incredible
10-11-2007, 08:23 PM
That's right, the ludes had the third sensor on the opposite cam.

How costly do you think? I'm going to try to get an estimate sometime next week...

guaynabo89
10-11-2007, 08:30 PM
Just an alum piece big enough for that is prob in the 40 dollar range plus the machining maybe 2 hrs worth so thats another about 100. Plus the key adapter.

Depending on how the prices are around you it will pob run you in the 150 range give or take.

Plus remember the key adapter has to already have the correct positioning and a machine shop will not do the r&d. You would have to know how many degrees offset you want it made.

LX-incredible
10-11-2007, 08:39 PM
Sounds about right... I'm planning on getting the plates made first, then I'll try to figure the key out.

cygnus x-1
10-12-2007, 06:47 PM
You can use any distributor that has the cam, crank, cyl sensors in it.

Some of those other distributors dont have vacuum advance but they also only have 2 of the sensors in the distributors and the third on the other camshaft.


Oh, ok. So no go on the Prelude dizzy. :(

I still don't understand why the third sensor is needed, but it's not important here.

C|

LX-incredible
10-13-2007, 01:32 PM
The guy is supposed to get back to me in a couple of days with an estimate. Either way, I am going to have two made, along with the keys. Most of you guys could get away with a thin, simple adapter plate and grinding the thermostat housing as shown. You would also need to either bend the lower water pipe or grind a little off the dizzy. Something should also be done to plug the lower vent, now located near the top, and have another drilled at the bottom. Then the only thing really needing to be machined would be the key. Mad props to the people who have done this, but it's not the way I want to start going about things. I want to keep parts "stock" for easy replacement and reliability. If there is still interest, I will post the estimate.

AccordEpicenter
10-14-2007, 08:13 AM
im def interested lemme know if this is a go

rjudgey
10-14-2007, 10:10 AM
Not as clean as Cygnus x-1 he doesn't even have a dizzy ;o)

Really i don't know why you guy's who are getting into serious performance territory are bothering to muck about with OBD1 just save the weight and have aftermarket with crank fired ignition system.

I know it's a lot of hassle but ultimately with a custom made wiring loom and all new sensors that are brand new and not rip off honda prices when they go wrong, it's a lot cheap longterm and less hassle and more capable, you don't have to have the best sytem there are cheaper standalone ecu's megaquirt and others that are bit dearer but ready made, or you can go silly banana and have Electromotive or similar which will do , Vtec, Turbo, NOS, water injection the whole lot in one go even!!

Or just do what i do stick with Webers ;0) Much easier!! (unless you have issues with local testing and emssions then your screwed!!)

LX-incredible
10-14-2007, 12:39 PM
Not as clean as Cygnus x-1 he doesn't even have a dizzy ;o)

Really i don't know why you guy's who are getting into serious performance territory are bothering to muck about with OBD1 just save the weight and have aftermarket with crank fired ignition system.

I know it's a lot of hassle but ultimately with a custom made wiring loom and all new sensors that are brand new and not rip off honda prices when they go wrong, it's a lot cheap longterm and less hassle and more capable, you don't have to have the best sytem there are cheaper standalone ecu's megaquirt and others that are bit dearer but ready made, or you can go silly banana and have Electromotive or similar which will do , Vtec, Turbo, NOS, water injection the whole lot in one go even!!

Or just do what i do stick with Webers ;0) Much easier!! (unless you have issues with local testing and emssions then your screwed!!)

How much would a set up like that run? Cause I'm pretty sure it's out of my range... I also want to keep the accessories on this car. There's really isn't much info for crank-fired ignitions on here. I would like to see some pictures of how people went about mounting the trigger wheel and pickup.

bobafett
10-14-2007, 07:41 PM
I will be able to help provide a full write up when I finish the Electromotive system on my car. Total realistic cost for something like that is $2600 + a little bit of DIY stuff and some machining costs. :) But thats extreme, there are several less expensive options, most common would be the new megasquirt boards that handle spark, and you can just buy aftermarket EDIS coilpacks for a 'reasonable' fee.

LX-incredible
10-14-2007, 07:55 PM
I will be able to help provide a full write up when I finish the Electromotive system on my car. Total realistic cost for something like that is $2600 + a little bit of DIY stuff and some machining costs. :) But thats extreme, there are several less expensive options, most common would be the new megasquirt boards that handle spark, and you can just buy aftermarket EDIS coilpacks for a 'reasonable' fee.

That is something that I would like to see.:) $2600 is a lot for me right now, it would probably be better spent on the pistons, machine and head work, but it could be a possibility further down the road... if necessary.

cygnus x-1
10-15-2007, 12:03 AM
How much would a set up like that run? Cause I'm pretty sure it's out of my range... I also want to keep the accessories on this car. There's really isn't much info for crank-fired ignitions on here. I would like to see some pictures of how people went about mounting the trigger wheel and pickup.

The Megasquirt is really cheap compared to everything else, but it's not as polished as the other systems and doesn't have all the bells and whistles (yet). But as far as basic engine management it's incredibly flexible. It can work with anything from a lawnmower engine to a big V12. For ignition the simplest setup is the Ford EDIS. You could do an MS+EDIS setup for as little as $500 for parts (some used) plus some machine work and lots of DIY time. It would never pass emissions though if you have a check engine light or have a visual inspection. (do carbed Accords have check engine lights?) I'm pretty sure there is a thread around here somewhere with info on the crank trigger setup.
There is also an ignition only module called Megajolt light that can control an EDIS ignition standalone. Maybe $200 for the Megajolt kit and junkyard EDIS parts plus machine work and DIY time.

But this is sort of off topic for this thread so I won't spam it up anymore. If you want to read about my Megasquirt+EDIS conversion adventure go here:
http://preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268263


C|

LX-incredible
10-15-2007, 07:50 PM
^ Interesting project and the cost seems reasonable. I'm leaning towards keeping PS and AC, but I'm sure a wheel could be fitted, leaving them intact. I am going to stick with my obd 1 plans for now. I've started to develop a nasty (and expensive) habit of leaving projects unfinished...

'A20A3'
10-22-2007, 07:44 AM
im interested in one of these plates i would definitely buy one. all this talk about redrilling the key...are you guys talking about the cam key? cause an adjustable cam gear would fix that right? or are you talking about where the dizzy mounts to the cam? does that have to be redrilled so it fires in the correct timing?

LX-incredible
10-22-2007, 02:06 PM
No, the dizzy key. A new one will need to be made that is longer, to account for the thickness of the plate. The pin hole will also need to be drilled in a different position to mount the distributor upright. The jackass still hasn't got back to me with the quote. Hopefully I will hear from him this week.

crucial
10-23-2007, 05:52 PM
U got the dimensions? If u do i can make one as soon as i get them but u have to pay me back for the shipping. My shop has aluminum pieces in the scrap bins that can be used for it. I think its 6061. Let me know.

Oh if u plan on using a piece 1/2 -3/4" it can be tapped

A20A1
02-03-2008, 01:10 PM
wow I totally missed this thread