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89T
10-30-2007, 07:37 AM
i have been putting off building a new manifold for quite some time, i just called a local supplier to get prices on bends 304ss sch10 and sch40 steel.
Whats weird about the whole thing is the stainless is cheaper than the steel.
no matter,they only have 2 90's in ss in stock. so i'll go ahead and get the steel. It will be alittle hevier but stout.
i have been rocking my log for 4 years now without any problems, and i used the steel bends and t's without any additional bracing.
strenth is a non-issue.

so as i progress i will post updates.

89T
10-30-2007, 07:18 PM
well no update really, i ran all over town getting parts for the manifold and parts for the manifold and collector jig. I broke 2 bandsaw blades starting the jig's,then went chasing for them.

i also got con'd into doing the break's on the apt.managers car. for lol.

what a day! it was better than being at work though!

guaynabo89
10-30-2007, 08:19 PM
What design you going with? shorty, ramhorn, topmount!

89T
10-31-2007, 03:25 AM
at the moment i am playing with models. i am looking at a traditional topmount, and a topmount with the turbine inlet clocked towards the front of the car just behind the grill on the hood.

while i am at it i bought enough bends for another log manifold.
all i need are flanges.

AccordEpicenter
10-31-2007, 06:53 PM
talk to bmc racing for 1/2" thick weld flanges h

RobT5580
11-02-2007, 08:33 AM
I have not done a lot of research but i read a few topics about the top mount being laggy and not recommended unless its a fairly decent setup. I was going to do one but now im reconsidering after reading a post where the guy wish he kept it simple. I have stainless steel BMC flanges made for the B20A im just trying to work out a design. My Ludespeed log manifold seemed to do the job well and im actually considering a similar design because its simple design and flow work for my goals.

guaynabo89
11-02-2007, 09:42 AM
Hey Rob... I dont remember if you kept your AC or not but, If AC wasnt a problem for me I would have definately gone for a shorty/miniram manifold. Like these.


http://www.rcautoworks.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/RCautoworksminiram232.JPG

http://spoolinperformance.com/redzone/quick4/minime2.jpg

http://static.zoovy.com/img/tunertoys/-/200703/ttmsh_01_480w


These are all different manufacturers but all come o pretty much the same result.

89T
11-03-2007, 08:50 AM
this is what i was thinking of or something close to it.
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/1585/manifold2editedod0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

this one would be cool too.

http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/241/e41cq4lx8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

as far as lag goes,most of those guy's running topmounts are using huge turbos anyway so the lag is pretty bad to begin with.
i was reading up on babafets header how to and looking at how lenth of the primarys directly affect torque.
do you guy's think if i tune this manifold to my peak tourque would i see gains in that area of the dyno graph?
would i be wasting my time?
I have done some reserch of tuning turbo manifolds but it seems tht nobody has done any extensive reserch on the subject.
what do you guys think?

guaynabo89
11-03-2007, 10:41 AM
Or maybe one like this. :tongue:




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/sinnedone/Picture118.jpg




LOL



As far as the topmounts, youre right. Usually anyone runig one is running like gt40's or equivelant and up. We really need to keep notes and compare since the a20 setups arent as tried as the other engines like d, h, and b's.

With my manifold while the runers arent any longer than a ramhorn I'm a little worried about lag. I know our engines are a little bigger than the b's but like I said a20 turbo setups arent tried and documented like the rest of the Honda engines.

I want to think that my turbo is not going to be laggy but being that I probably wont be reving past 7200 rpm I hope full boost wont come on too late. Once I get my car running i'll make a thread and I;ll try and share as much info as i can.

bobafett
11-04-2007, 04:20 PM
even though I have the full size ram horn manifold, I am still half tempted to build a shorty ram manifold or a top mount. lmao... minimizing lag will be key with a turbo as large as I am using. :)

keep the ideas flowing i love to consider all of these ideas. :)

89T
11-04-2007, 06:14 PM
well guys i spent about 4 hours last night moving the turbo around the engine bay and all got was frustration. In order to optimize scavanging the primarys need to be between 11 and 15 degrees at the collector. That being said each tube needs to be atleast 4" long. I went with a 5" collector just to make it easier to weld. I bolted the collector to the turbo to find the best position in the engine compartment.there just isn't alot of room in there.
I didn't find the perfect position yet, but i am still working on it.

I wouldn't mind a miniram but it doesnt have the flow at the collector that i am looking for.

knarg
11-04-2007, 07:20 PM
Or maybe one like this. :tongue:




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/sinnedone/Picture118.jpg




LOL



As far as the topmounts, youre right. Usually anyone runig one is running like gt40's or equivelant and up. We really need to keep notes and compare since the a20 setups arent as tried as the other engines like d, h, and b's.

With my manifold while the runers arent any longer than a ramhorn I'm a little worried about lag. I know our engines are a little bigger than the b's but like I said a20 turbo setups arent tried and documented like the rest of the Honda engines.

I want to think that my turbo is not going to be laggy but being that I probably wont be reving past 7200 rpm I hope full boost wont come on too late. Once I get my car running i'll make a thread and I;ll try and share as much info as i can.

how did you get that manifold? i want it!!

snoopyloopy
11-05-2007, 05:27 AM
how did you get that manifold? i want it!!

it was customed for him by someone in his area.

guaynabo89
11-05-2007, 05:12 PM
^^^ YUP^^^





well guys i spent about 4 hours last night moving the turbo around the engine bay and all got was frustration. In order to optimize scavanging the primarys need to be between 11 and 15 degrees at the collector. That being said each tube needs to be atleast 4" long. I went with a 5" collector just to make it easier to weld. I bolted the collector to the turbo to find the best position in the engine compartment.there just isn't alot of room in there.
I didn't find the perfect position yet, but i am still working on it.

I wouldn't mind a miniram but it doesnt have the flow at the collector that i am looking for.


Whats holding you back?

Got any pictures of the collector and what you.ve tried to mock up?


You still running power steering but no ac right?

89T
11-08-2007, 04:17 AM
^^^ YUP^^^







Whats holding you back?

Got any pictures of the collector and what you.ve tried to mock up?


You still running power steering but no ac right?
nothing is hlding me back, i want a long tube manifold that will fit between the radiator and the power steering pump. I also want to be able to get to the sparkplugs easialy and still run a 3" down pipe.

I dont have any pics as of yet,sorry.

guaynabo89
11-08-2007, 05:26 AM
ah I see.

You're running a half rad right?


Definately post pics if you can. it be nice to see what you come up with. :wave:

RobT5580
11-09-2007, 07:59 PM
Im trying to keep my front mount and i plan to run the 90-93 teg radiator with dual fans so space is an issue with other manifold designs. Guaynabo you design probably would work out well for me but i want the least lag possible. My ludespeed manifold worked well but a bigger turbo would not work with my front mount. So im thinking i will use a similar design just custom made to work around my engine bay. My T3 seemed to be a good match on my b20a but i want more so im going bigger.

I hope all goes well for you i would like to see how it performs!

89T
11-10-2007, 05:45 AM
ah I see.

You're running a half rad right?


Definately post pics if you can. it be nice to see what you come up with. :wave:
yea i am running a 1/2 civic-si rad.
I'll post some pics as soon as i get somthing that i am happy with.

i did come up with an awsome topmount with split center runners so the down pipe would pass between them, but i soon realized that my t3/t4 wouldn't fit.too fkn big!;)
the mock up turbo i am using is a t3 and quite a bit smaller.oh well next...
ooh i almost forgot. it was a top mount keeping the ac/ps and running a 3" down pipe.(1/2 size rad would be needed also)


Im trying to keep my front mount and i plan to run the 90-93 teg radiator with dual fans so space is an issue with other manifold designs. Guaynabo you design probably would work out well for me but i want the least lag possible. My ludespeed manifold worked well but a bigger turbo would not work with my front mount. So im thinking i will use a similar design just custom made to work around my engine bay. My T3 seemed to be a good match on my b20a but i want more so im going bigger.

I hope all goes well for you i would like to see how it performs!

i like guaynabo89's manifold also, but for me it doesn't meet my goals.
rob remember when you modify or build you'r manifold the key is the collector.
also post up some pics and throw some idea's out, this is becoming one of the better threads on manifold design!

i guess that is why i am having trouble. i dont want to modify my collector or compremise my goals.

guaynabo89
11-10-2007, 06:28 AM
Im trying to keep my front mount and i plan to run the 90-93 teg radiator with dual fans

Well....... I think if you want to do it like that, I think a traction bar would give you enough space towork with. Me and Bobbafet were talking about that a little while ago. Not to mention that with a traction bar you would be able to move your front engine mount over to the pass side a little using brackets to get you more room up front.


Honestly with a half rad and traction bar I think you could pretty much run any configuration you would want. That front stamped steel crossmember takes up so much space compared to a traction bar.


I figure if we could just use the two tow hook tabs and bracket them into the front crossbeam mpunt points with a square tubing runnin from side to side and as close to the rad as possible, that would free up so much space it be unbeleivable.

RobT5580
11-10-2007, 07:11 AM
Yeah i was thinking about traction bars but im skeptical of doing a tranny mount. The tranny mount and traction bars will open it up a lot for sure. Right now my engine is really sloppy because of the dog bone mount so im looking for erethane inserts because mine didnt work as planned.

I like your manifold because it will be out in the open space and doesnt look like it would interfere with much other than the radiator hose. And it doesnt have as much volume as the top mount.

As the moment im having a delema with my chassis because i found more rust in the wheel wells rather than just the rear quarters. So im looking at possibly getting a new chassis or spending the $1800 plus labor for all new sheet metal (fenders, hood, trunk, full quarters, and wheel wells in the rear). I am starting to look at pistons so i can get the ball rolling on the block and spend some time assembling it and cleaning up the wiring and stuff before it goes back in.

AccordEpicenter
11-10-2007, 07:07 PM
What i did was went down to a half size rad, eliminated ps/ac, went to all solid mounts, plus modified the hell out of the front beam (cut and smashed in the top of it) for clearance and the topmount fits really good. Id say its a bit extreme for some of you but its a balls out setup anyway. And Rob, i thought your car was solid?

Johnny O
11-10-2007, 07:40 PM
I have my old manifold and I will sell if anyone is interested in it.

MessyHonda
11-10-2007, 10:03 PM
I have my old manifold and I will sell if anyone is interested in it.



very interesting. :wave:

RobT5580
11-11-2007, 07:58 AM
And Rob, i thought your car was solid?

Solid Mounts? I put erethane in my stock mounts and all were brand new. But for some reason my dog bone is sloppy and creates a lot of engine movement so im looking for a full insert. I dont think i would want the vibration of solid mounts unless it was sticktly a track car.

89T
11-11-2007, 08:26 AM
What i did was went down to a half size rad, eliminated ps/ac, went to all solid mounts, plus modified the hell out of the front beam (cut and smashed in the top of it) for clearance and the topmount fits really good. Id say its a bit extreme for some of you but its a balls out setup anyway. And Rob, i thought your car was solid?
got any pics of the top mount in the car?

AccordEpicenter
11-11-2007, 09:57 AM
Solid Mounts? I put erethane in my stock mounts and all were brand new. But for some reason my dog bone is sloppy and creates a lot of engine movement so im looking for a full insert. I dont think i would want the vibration of solid mounts unless it was sticktly a track car.

no i thought your car was fresh and had no rust. Last pics i saw of it it still looked siqqq. And 89 turboed i didnt get pics with it yet because its not finished. Im trying to work on the collector, do you know somewhere i can get a jig or somthing? Im trying to make one out of schedule 40 mild...

guaynabo89
11-11-2007, 10:01 AM
Y not have someone make just the collector for you? Or maybe just cut it for you?

AccordEpicenter
11-11-2007, 02:42 PM
thats what i need, either or. All the pre fab ones ive seen are in stainless...

guaynabo89
11-11-2007, 04:18 PM
so how far have you gotten? Have you welded anything together?

What shops you got local?

You have a band saw? Maybe you can cut em urself.....

RobT5580
11-11-2007, 07:34 PM
no i thought your car was fresh and had no rust. Last pics i saw of it it still looked siqqq. And 89 turboed i didnt get pics with it yet because its not finished. Im trying to work on the collector, do you know somewhere i can get a jig or somthing? Im trying to make one out of schedule 40 mild...

My car use to be fairly mint but i left it out when i blew the turbo motor and it took a beating. I was ok with what i had but i found more in the wheel well that adds up to more money. I was never to concerned with rust because i always planned to re-paint.

Im either gonna fix it or get a better chassis i will see how things go. I want to get the ball rolling on my B20A block because i still have a ways to go if i want to be boosted again in 2008.

89T
11-11-2007, 07:49 PM
thats what i need, either or. All the pre fab ones ive seen are in stainless...


i made my own jig for the collector,there not 100% perfect but they will do the job.
i am using mild sch40 also. I got extra pipe so send me a pm with your needs.

89T
11-12-2007, 07:09 PM
here is a few pics of my manifold project.
spare block and spare t3 for mockup.
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/4672/manifold003bu1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
the wood represents the maximum amount of room in the engine compartmentand it is also holding the turbo in it's finnished place.
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8007/manifold001gb0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
1
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/245/manifold004pq8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
i hott glued a 3" aluminum 90deg bend to represent the down pipe..lol

well here you go a start of a verry different manifold.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/1467/manifold007qd5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
top veiw
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/7593/manifold008ha6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
lower diag. pic. this is the one i like.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/8628/manifold009io2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
the ghost jig i made for the collector.
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/7334/manifold010rq8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

i'll see if i can get it all mocked up by the weekend.

ZackieDarko
11-13-2007, 06:37 AM
:thumbup::jaw:

guaynabo89
11-13-2007, 07:42 AM
Looks good man keep it up.

thegreatdane
11-14-2007, 01:02 AM
I'm certainly looking forward to see what way those bends are going to make their way up to the flange. It's a very different one for sure!

AccordEpicenter
11-14-2007, 09:40 AM
just make sure you dont have the compressor side too much above the turbine side or the turbo is gonna smoke. Looks awesome soo far though

89T
11-15-2007, 04:12 AM
thanks guy's...
accordepicenter note taken. i readjusted the manifold for minimal angle.
i'll probable finnish it up by saturday.
i have been working on this week little by little.

race12001
11-15-2007, 06:47 AM
looks good

89T
11-16-2007, 05:53 PM
it's all tacked together...
whoooo!

89T
11-16-2007, 07:45 PM
:thumbdn:

ZackieDarko
11-16-2007, 08:42 PM
thats not gonna melt the dipstick/dipstick tube?

AccordEpicenter
11-16-2007, 09:01 PM
nah itll be fine. Looks pretty good, what are you doing for a wastegate? Id call this manifold teh freestyle

edit: 89turboed pm me back when u get a chance

labeledsk8r
11-16-2007, 09:50 PM
man that mani is insane, looks like a water park ride.

MessyHonda
11-16-2007, 11:57 PM
very unique

AccordEpicenter
11-17-2007, 12:00 AM
lol maybe the waterpark mani is a better name

89T
11-17-2007, 05:43 AM
damb it's going to be like that!(as i mumble waterpark)
all those bends were nessasary for the lenth of primarys i was looking for.

i got a tial wg, it'll probably be installed on the lower side of the collector.I may order another one and run 2.

Accordtheory
11-17-2007, 10:12 AM
Wow...that is definitely something. Not knocking the design, but curious as to why you didn't do a normal topmount? And just so you know, you can get the 90deg weld els for 5-7$ a piece sch 10 or sch 40 in 304, and it's a little more, like $9 a piece for 316/316L..

89T
11-17-2007, 10:47 AM
that's why i started this thread. i wanted opinions...
i guess it is kinda ugly.
that's why you call it a mockup.
i guess i'll redesign it.

labeledsk8r
11-17-2007, 11:54 AM
i didnt mean what i said as an insult, i thought it was a cool design.

guaynabo89
11-17-2007, 12:21 PM
post those pics back up man.

only got to see em on my phone. :(

AccordEpicenter
11-17-2007, 12:41 PM
dont redesign it, it looks really good, you should be able to put down a serious amount of power with it. Props to you for doing somthing differnent

Accordtheory
11-17-2007, 02:17 PM
that's why i started this thread. i wanted opinions...
i guess it is kinda ugly.
that's why you call it a mockup.
i guess i'll redesign it.

I don't know if you were trying to make me feel guilty, but damn.. I post and then the pics disappear and now it's going to be redesigned? Feel free to redesign it if you want, I always go through so many designs of everything I build, I even rewrite almost every word in every sentence I post, so..it'll just end up better anyway. My only contribution to this isn't a critique of the design, just a suggestion on the materials used. I think with the amount of effort that goes into building one of these, (which far exceeds the cost of materials, in my book) you might as well use stainless, at least 304.

Accordtheory
11-17-2007, 02:23 PM
Im trying to make one out of schedule 40 mild...

Same for you..what's up with the mild steel when you can get stainless for hardly any more? Do you guys realize how bad you'd get flamed on h-t if you posted up a mild steel manifold? Those guys are all full-race nutswingers, but still.

89T
11-17-2007, 02:50 PM
alright guy's I decided to stay with the original.
the reason i was backing out was because i was unsure of the looks of it.
but the hell with it i built it for me, not mass production.i'll get the pics up in a couple hours.
the reason i am going mild steel is because 80%(unsure of actual percentage) of those nut swingers are having to reweld those topmounts.
i'd put a lifetime warranty on my steel.
when i had my car in the dumped in weeds and hit a speed bump it would twist and tear the down pipe and it wouldn't affect the manifold one bit.i guess i would rather repair or replace the down pipe.

my intentions were not to make anyone feel guilty.;)

89T
11-17-2007, 04:11 PM
here ya go.
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/6306/manifold032sj7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/250/manifold016ck6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/4666/manifold020ky8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/4210/manifold021be1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/6909/manifold023uj8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

guaynabo89
11-17-2007, 04:21 PM
Same for you..what's up with the mild steel when you can get stainless for hardly any more? Do you guys realize how bad you'd get flamed on h-t if you posted up a mild steel manifold? Those guys are all full-race nutswingers, but still.


Man F the Ht nutswingers! LOL


While the stainless are nice to look at they leave little room for error as far as the welding goes. Not to mention depending what type of stainless you use it'll be more prone to cracking. More than mild steel anyway.

89T
11-17-2007, 04:21 PM
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/2756/manifold025te8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/257/manifold026ti1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/1796/manifold027ui5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/1470/manifold028mv8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/1290/manifold035lj9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

AccordEpicenter
11-17-2007, 05:02 PM
I never had any problems with cracking and warping on my last mild one, plus i went with mild flanges so i figured might as well make the whole thing mild. Plus mild is easier to work with than stainless, the only advantage here to the stainless is that it doesnt corrode like mild does... but it does expand a shit ton more and warps/cracks a little easier than the mild seems to. BTW i dont really care what any HT full race sackriders have to say about mild steel manis. Most of those guys dont make their own shit anyway

Accordtheory
11-18-2007, 02:52 PM
Most of the guys don't, but you sure can't sell anything with mild steel runners on h-t. Yet almost all of them have mild flanges. I'll be making a couple manifolds out of 304 with mild flanges in the next couple weeks, I'll post them up on here at some point.

AccordEpicenter
11-18-2007, 09:33 PM
fuck ht anyway, there are a handful of legit performance guys but most of them are jdm ricers with sand in their vaginas

3geez+homemadeturbo>ht

Accordtheory
11-20-2007, 09:31 AM
I think h-t it is by far the best automotive tech forum on the internet, period. I spend most of my time in the forced induction and fabrication sections, that is where I've found the most educated people to be. While there are a lot of ignorant, opinionated morons on h-t who will never fully understand what they're attempting to modify, and yet who feel free to tell others and argue with people like me about it, there is still no other forum that attracts so many upper level people in the business, and so many successful people who compete with their products. You have people representing almost every major manufacturer, from full race to golden eagle to skunk2 to peakboost, etc, etc, etc, to the shops that actually build the high level cars, to the tuners who tune them. The dude I just bought flanges from (SLS) I found on h-t, and when I was looking for a local chassis dyno, I recognized his name next to one of the top ten hp cars on dynotuneusa.com, the only dyno in th entire state of SD. (Presenting..the world, as shrunk by honda-tech) You have so many people who can afford to dyno test over and over again that building a 600whp honda is just a basic recipe these days. I can regurgitate exactly how to do that down to almost every single component in a few minutes, thanks to h-t. If you want to learn anything, just ask on there. You just have to know how to sift through the bs replies, because they'll be there, but so will the legit ones. I've learned So much on there, it's ridiculous. Just yesterday I learned wtf a "gas lens" is for a tig torch. That should help me with the manifolds a little. A lot of people hate on h-t because they can't compete with the money being spent on there, but who cares. I just go there with the attitude of a scientist, I'm there to learn and contribute what I can.

I even have a question right now to ask on h-t, wtf tig filler rods should I use to weld 304, 309 or 308? It better be 309, because I just bought 10lbs of that shit..

guaynabo89
11-20-2007, 10:44 AM
lol

I'll have to agree with what you said. I also poke around in the fab and fi sections as well.

Too bad there's like 25 knowitalls and idiots to every 1 that's a good.


The Bseries motors have been tried with so many setups with good documentation on HT that its basicly cookie cutter setups now. Anyone with a bseries can just put something together and be well informed enough to know how much HP to expect with X manifold and X turbo.


The old A20 needs this type of documentation. That's why its great that you put the pictures back up 89turbod. We all need to do our parts and share info to see if we can keep a good database on turbocharged A20 engines and what they can and can't do on what turbos etc. :wave:

AccordEpicenter
11-20-2007, 03:09 PM
I spend most of my time in the forced induction and fabrication sections, that is where I've found the most educated people to be. While there are a lot of ignorant, opinionated morons on h-t who will never fully understand what they're attempting to modify, and yet who feel free to tell others and argue with people like me about it, there is still no other forum that attracts so many upper level people in the business, and so many successful people who compete with their products.


i can agree with that... There is some good info in FI and Fab sections but for actual accord knowledge youre better off here than ht

AccordB20A
11-20-2007, 03:22 PM
Shit, You guys sure are into your turbos, At least theres ppl here that can teach me when i have a job and rebuilt my b20a

Accordtheory
11-21-2007, 10:48 AM
i can agree with that... There is some good info in FI and Fab sections but for actual accord knowledge youre better off here than ht

Well, that depends on what you want to know. Legend master helped me out a few times, but I'd say for the most part on here, when I've had a question, I've had to figure it out myself, and then ended up posting about it later. For instance, even though legend posted up about the linkage and axles, I still ended up figuring it out myself anyway, and doing my own thing. That's not intended as criticism at all of this forum or anyone on it, it's just how it is. Right now I want to know if anyone has actually removed their front coil spring and compressed the suspension to see how much they can extend the top hat for the strut before the uca hits the tower, so I know how much to extend the top hats on my car. I already know I'm going to have to do this myself, and I'm only hoping to get my car operational again by this spring. Vector didn't respond to my post, and neither did legend master, so..

Anyway, sorry for getting so off topic, 89turboed, and good luck with your setup. Hopefully the manifold doesn't warp or set your engine compartment on fire, like with my car. (+ another 1 for stainless..lower thermal conductivity). The amount of heat that will come off your manifold will be somewhat of a challenge to deal with. You'll have to get creative with venting or heat shielding, or both. An evo style hood vent would get my vote as far as a good solution.

AccordEpicenter
11-21-2007, 01:27 PM
go flatrate, put some washers under the hood hinges, itll raise the back of the hood a little bit and itll keep your temps down. I didnt have that much trouble with my last mild manifold with underhood temps, nor did i relocate the ps high pressure line that comes right in front of the engine to the pump. If you do have problems, make a heat shield like accordtheory mentioned but i would advise against header wrap, unless you like the smell of burnt nachos and cracked manifolds

Accordtheory
11-22-2007, 03:10 PM
Yeah, header wrap is somewhat of an inaccurate name, you can't actually wrap headers with it. (You can, but they won't last). As far as opening your hood in the back, you can also just remove the weatherstrip in that area too. However, according to a few things I've read about this, the base of the windshield is a high pressure area, (that's how cowl induction works, it's no joke) and air will flow in through there and down through your engine compartment to the ground, reducing the temp of the compartment. However, it seems to me like doing this would also reduce the pressure differential between the engine compartment and the front of the radiator, reducing the flow across it. (and also not flowing air over the manifold) That is why I like the hood vent over the manifold better, supposedly that is a lower pressure area, and actually pulls air up and out through the radiator and past the manifold.

If anyone knows anything about this, or has seen a different result, speak up..

89T
11-22-2007, 05:40 PM
i see what you guy's are saying about the heat issues,and i will take everything under advisement. i want to keep the car as stock looking as possible though. i am thinking the evo style hood is out. the cowl induction hood would look alot better as long as it wasnt over done,and with maybe a vent on the front edge pushing air through the rear opening.idk.

AccordEpicenter
11-22-2007, 07:38 PM
i dont think youre gonna have THAT much problem with underhood temps really, just make sure you have adequate clearance from anything flammable around the header

89T
11-23-2007, 07:29 AM
there isn't going to be anything around the header..I am in the planning stages of my coupe being a step away from a full-race car. meaning a full wire tuck, and the removal of everything that doesn't hold the motor or need to be wired to the management.the coupe will also recive a 8 or 10 point roll cage and sub-frame connectors.
the motor is going to be pulled from the sedan and installed into the coupe. The coupe motor wiill be rebuilt turbo charged and installed into the sedan with an obd1 conversion. both will be converted to e-85 fuel.
both will have to be dynoed so the sedan will be tuned for 15psi and the coupe will recive 25-35psi.
this isn't going to be "I'll have it done in a month" type project so anything some of you can contribute planning wise I would appreciate.
i am alittle off topic here but you can post sugestions in my build thread.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?p=825603#post825603

AccordEpicenter
11-23-2007, 10:37 AM
yeah youll notice the cage will stiffen the car greatly so youre not gonna really need any subframe connectors but i cant wait to see results here. This is def one of the better accord builds ive seen ever

89T
11-23-2007, 05:22 PM
thanks! i am kinda at a loss for words...

89T
11-24-2007, 04:58 AM
yeah youll notice the cage will stiffen the car greatly so youre not gonna really need any subframe connectors but i cant wait to see results here. This is def one of the better accord builds ive seen ever
i would like to say that i have alote of respect for you, accordtheory, bobbafett, 88turboaccord, ericdx, johnny-o,robT, and a hand full of other members including sean. You guy's set the foundation for all of the high performance accords on this site.:thumbup: to our resident research guru babafett.
before my first post i spent months researching all of you're turbo threads and individual posts, so :cheers:here's to the guy's that go unnoticed.

bullard123
11-24-2007, 09:29 AM
there isn't going to be anything around the header..I am in the planning stages of my coupe being a step away from a full-race car. meaning a full wire tuck, and the removal of everything that doesn't hold the motor or need to be wired to the management.the coupe will also recive a 8 or 10 point roll cage and sub-frame connectors.
the motor is going to be pulled from the sedan and installed into the coupe. The coupe motor wiill be rebuilt turbo charged and installed into the sedan with an obd1 conversion. both will be converted to e-85 fuel.
both will have to be dynoed so the sedan will be tuned for 15psi and the coupe will recive 25-35psi.
this isn't going to be "I'll have it done in a month" type project so anything some of you can contribute planning wise I would appreciate.
i am alittle off topic here but you can post sugestions in my build thread.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?p=825603#post825603

Wow dude! That coupe is going to killer when its done! I am going to have to swing by there to see this in progress. You will be the only member on here with two turbo 3gee accords

89T
11-25-2007, 10:28 AM
Wow dude! That coupe is going to killer when its done! I am going to have to swing by there to see this in progress. You will be the only member on here with two turbo 3gee accords

yes sir.when i get going on it i'll give you a call. i have to start buying up more parts.

89T
11-29-2007, 06:44 PM
here is alittle somthing i am doing for AccordEpicenter...
this is the first time he will see it, I hope he likes it...:wave:
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/8863/collectorjulie018bn1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
o
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/4486/collectorjulie017nm4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
o
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/4885/collectorjulie016wx7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
o
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/6893/collectorjulie015zm3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
o
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/6383/collectorjulie014jd9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

89T
11-29-2007, 06:45 PM
some more!
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/2598/collectorjulie013ls5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
o
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/8291/collectorjulie012ih3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
o
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/8353/collectorjulie011lv5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
o
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/3894/collectorjulie010ps7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
o
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/1792/collectorjulie009de1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

bobafett
11-29-2007, 06:50 PM
glorious!

guaynabo89
11-29-2007, 06:54 PM
nice!

T3 flange going on that? sch10?

ZackieDarko
11-29-2007, 07:14 PM
glorious!



what he said

EricW
11-29-2007, 07:59 PM
Nice work!

89T
11-29-2007, 08:19 PM
nice!

T3 flange going on that? sch10?
I am sure he is going with a t/3 flange, and it's sch40 pipe.

thanks guy's! i hope he'll be happy with it.

AccordEpicenter
11-30-2007, 05:34 AM
Nice work Jerry! Just plz make sure that the small end is close in size to the T3 inlet size and not alot bigger. But looks really good!

Accordtheory
11-30-2007, 08:39 PM
Can you post up the jig you used to cut that? How many degrees are those cuts? I'm trying to make one for my cut off saw right now, and it's pissing me off. I want it where I can still do 90deg cuts on the saw without having to change all kinds of shit.

89T
12-01-2007, 06:53 AM
Can you post up the jig you used to cut that? How many degrees are those cuts? I'm trying to make one for my cut off saw right now, and it's pissing me off. I want it where I can still do 90deg cuts on the saw without having to change all kinds of shit.
$49.95 and i'll send you one.
j/k
the cuts have to be between 11-15 degrees,11deg cuts are pain to weld but they can be done.
my jig wont help you with a cutoff saw,its spifically made for a bandsaw.
I can guide you through making one for your cut off saw though.

it took me 2 day's to figure out how to make the jig so i feel you'r pain.

once you set it up and cut one,you have to cut all 4 there is no going back. make sure you have a square,to check all you'r cut's.

also get some plastic 1.5" pipe to pratice on. It's cheaper than steel.
when you make the cuts dont force the saw,let it cut slowly.

this is a genaric drawing. I hope this helps....

http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/4998/jiggd3.png (http://imageshack.us)

89T
12-01-2007, 07:11 AM
Nice work Jerry! Just plz make sure that the small end is close in size to the T3 inlet size and not alot bigger. But looks really good! i am glad you like it.i'll send it out today.

Accordtheory
12-01-2007, 12:34 PM
it took me 2 day's to figure out how to make the jig so i feel you'r pain.Ok, sorry, but I gotta clown you for a second. I'm not an english teacher, but the above sentence.. I can't help it..you know you have no clue how to use an apostrophe, right? Ok, back to the subject at hand..lol. You basically set it up how I'd figure, and I also figured you'd be using a bandsaw. Not people use cut off saws for this, I don't really know why. My dad used to have one of those harbor freight bandsaws, I guess people on h-t are starting to use those more, but that thing was garbage. It took me hours of messing with it just to get it to work at all. My dad eventually threw it away. That was about 6-7 years ago though, maybe they're better now.What I've done so far is cut off the edges of a drill press vise, with the plan of welding it onto a steel plate, which will then swivel on top of the flat part of the cut off saw. I can't even remember how I made the cuts for the collector on my old header, but I know I didn't use any type of saw.

89T
12-01-2007, 04:10 PM
OK, sorry, but I gotta clown you
:Owned:
damb... English was my worst class in school. hell i did not learn to speak english till i was 4 or 5.ooh well...

would you care to elaborate on your jig setup...I am not sure i am following you..Is the pipe going to be cut in the vertical position?

Accordtheory
12-01-2007, 08:37 PM
:)I was just giving you shit about the apostrophe thing..

As far as my jig, it'll be just a plate with a drill press vise on it. The whole thing will sit on top of the cut off saw in place of its (hey, where's the apostrophe..lol..is that a possessive or contraction or both..? wtf..) original clamping mechanism. The plate will just swivel on the axis of the original clamp, (horizontal) except the new clamp will be a lot farther out on the axis of the swivel point, allowing it to get a lot closer to parallel with the saw blade before it gets in the way of the blade. It's actually really simple, I'd already have it done, but the local guy who I'd buy the metal from was closed today.

After I do that, I'll build a twin scroll collector and post it up on here. I need to get a turbo so I can build the rest of the manifold, but for now I'll just do the collector. I can do some nice shit with my tig welder. It makes my old mig welds look like they were done by a stoned monkey.

89T
12-02-2007, 08:18 AM
:flip:are we going to have to change your name to "English teacher" or "stoned monkey" lol....

anyway i see where you are going with vice and i like it. My question is are you going to be able to replicate 8 cuts, and make them as exact as the first. straight cuts are not as critical as angle cuts. That being said if you are off by a 1/16 of an inch in any of the cuts it will throw off the entire collector and cause you to spend hours grinding or re-cutting. I am sure you are aware of the power of the saw. so let's say your pipe length is 5" (you can cut them longer but you will have more waste) and in order to cut the pipe without cutting into the vice you'll only get about 1" to 1.5" of bite on the pipe. Is that going to be enough to hold the pipe perfectly level and keep it in place? The vice it self would have to be mounted in a way that there would be absolutely no movement.

i know you have spent alot of time thinking about this so I am just trying to point out some of the things i can think of that can make a difference in the final product. I tend to over think things sometimes, but without questions there are no answers.Think of this as R&D.

there is only like 3 maybe 4 of us willing or have the ability to take on building a manifold from scratch so if we can help each other out all the better.

Accordtheory
12-02-2007, 11:14 AM
I wonder if you really could train a monkey to weld. That'd be pretty tight. I mean, there are birds that have the vocabulary and comprehension of 4 year olds, so..
I wish I had a camera and the metal piece so I could just stfu, build it, test it, and post it up. I know what you're saying about keeping the pipe in the same location relative to the blade, I looked at your illustration and I think it's a good idea how you have the pipe bottom out against the flat stock to keep the cuts lined up. It would be nice to have that be adjustable. I'll probably incorporate something similiar into my design.

Another thing about the collector is once it's made, you're going to have to cut it off at the end so it fits flat on the flange. I might have a couple ideas, but I haven't figured out a good way to hold it for that yet. How did you plan on doing that?

Accordtheory
12-04-2007, 02:10 PM
Another thing that I've discovered, annoyingly enough, is that for the tubes to fit a rectangular flange, like a t3, each tube has to have 2 different angle cuts, so the collector comes out rectangular. Now my jig is fucked, because I just welded the clamp onto the plate at the angle I wanted. Maybe I can just hammer/press the collector into that stupid rectangle, if I want to make a t3 single scroll setup. I was planning on making a twin scroll manifold, so it won't matter for that.

89T
12-16-2007, 03:17 PM
update pics....
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/2446/manifold036ej3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3577/manifold038vv6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/373/manifold040bp5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

well there you go a manifold from start to finnish.
it needs a little more clean up but it's there.

BITESIZE
12-16-2007, 03:53 PM
MMM, yummy!

labeledsk8r
12-16-2007, 05:11 PM
looks frigen sweet!

Accordtheory
12-16-2007, 05:53 PM
So how did you get the collector to end up rectangular? Did you do the 2 different angle cuts on each tube, or just hammer it into shape?
Can you post a pic of the inside of the collector?

89T
12-16-2007, 06:30 PM
So how did you get the collector to end up rectangular? Did you do the 2 different angle cuts on each tube, or just hammer it into shape?
Can you post a pic of the inside of the collector?
i didnt i am going to port the flange and the turbo housing.
in order to get the rectangular shape you have the option of :
cutting the pipe with 2 different lenths but you use the same angle.
cut them all the same weld(or tack) them into 2 halves then recut or trim 1/8" to 1/4" off each.
or you can use a tabletop belt/disk sander.

89T
12-17-2007, 05:44 PM
damn that's all i get for all my blood sweat and beers....lol
2 pat's on the back and see ya!

you guy's know this thread isn't just for me, accordepicenter and accordtheory to post in right! right!
OK! lol

thanks bitesize and labeledskater you guy's rock! (as "Iron man" plays in the background)
i am a little old to be rocking out like that but what hell i was a stoner back in the day and that was my era!























































































damn!my neck hurts!
(as i collect myself)back on topic.:)

AccordEpicenter
12-18-2007, 08:30 AM
that came out really nice jerry. I still have a load of work to do on mine. I bet yours will still look better than mine even when im finished. Grinding welds down is too baller for me

Accordtheory
12-18-2007, 01:44 PM
i didnt i am going to port the flange and the turbo housing.
in order to get the rectangular shape you have the option of :
cutting the pipe with 2 different lenths but you use the same angle.
cut them all the same weld(or tack) them into 2 halves then recut or trim 1/8" to 1/4" off each.
or you can use a tabletop belt/disk sander.

If you cut them all at the same angle, it won't end up rectangular unless the insides of the cuts aren't lined up. People normally make the cuts at 11 and 14 degrees, I think.. Depends on the length though.
When you get it all ready to go, you should post up pics of the inside of the turbine housing and collector, so we can see how you made them match. I finally bought a turbo, hopefully it'll arrive soon so I can start figuring this shit out again too.

Accordtheory
12-18-2007, 01:54 PM
damn that's all i get for all my blood sweat and beers....lol
2 pat's on the back and see ya!

you guy's know this thread isn't just for me, accordepicenter and accordtheory to post in right! right!
OK! lol

thanks bitesize and labeledskater you guy's rock! (as "Iron man" plays in the background)
i am a little old to be rocking out like that but what hell i was a stoner back in the day and that was my era!

You should pat yourself on the back when you're all done and get back to your old ways..although i'll admit it is somewhat hard to fabricate while being high as a kite..
And we all know this thread is off limits to other people

89T
12-18-2007, 04:23 PM
You should pat yourself on the back when you're all done and get back to your old ways..although i'll admit it is somewhat hard to fabricate while being high as a kite..
And we all know this thread is off limits to other people

no more puff-puff-pass for this guy. lol
ya it is kinda hard to build stuff when all you can think about is chips,and popcorn. I'll keep on faricating though. damn ididn't get the memo...lol.j/k i dont mind a nice job every now and again..same goes for some of the bitching. it keeps me inline.:)

Ichiban
12-18-2007, 09:37 PM
Here's a question that's been bugging me for a while. How do you get in and weld all the way around the pipe when the joint is right next to another pipe, or at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions of the 2-3 tubes on the flange? I've got a lot of experience on a MIG gun and I know that they can be pretty cumbersome in really tight spots like that. Also, the 4 inside faces right off of the collecter. How do you get in there to weld? I'd considered sneaking a 5/32 7018 rod in there and welding away, way narrower than the diffuser tip on the MIG. I know people do it, just not how.

I cut the collecter completely off of the header for my toyota, I chopped it both before and after and completely re-welded it, as the flange broke off and the metal between the 4 pipes had died. I just stuck it in the chop saw, and cut halfway through on each side, then flipped it and finished cutting from the other side. A bandsaw would have been nicer, but it worked. I just grabbed it in the vise, with a parallel under the narrow side to keep it flat.

89T
12-19-2007, 04:23 AM
Here's a question that's been bugging me for a while. How do you get in and weld all the way around the pipe when the joint is right next to another pipe, or at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions of the 2-3 tubes on the flange? I've got a lot of experience on a MIG gun and I know that they can be pretty cumbersome in really tight spots like that. Also, the 4 inside faces right off of the collector. How do you get in there to weld? I'd considered sneaking a 5/32 7018 rod in there and welding away, way narrower than the diffuser tip on the MIG. I know people do it, just not how.

I cut the collector completely off of the header for my Toyota, I chopped it both before and after and completely re-welded it, as the flange broke off and the metal between the 4 pipes had died. I just stuck it in the chop saw, and cut halfway through on each side, then flipped it and finished cutting from the other side. A band saw would have been nicer, but it worked. I just grabbed it in the vise, with a parallel under the narrow side to keep it flat.

your answer is to weld each piece separately. between the runner on 2-3 i welded runner 3 first slightly grinded the weld then welded runner 2 welding part of the wall of 2 to 3. there is not allot more you can do there.
on the collector you would weld in 2 half's also.
weld say 1-4 and 2-3 on the vice then weld the 2 half's together welding the outsides first, the you will weld the interior. you'll end up pooling the weld slightly in the center were the intersection is.

89T
12-19-2007, 03:49 PM
that came out really nice jerry. I still have a load of work to do on mine. I bet yours will still look better than mine even when im finished. Grinding welds down is too baller for me

its almost time for you to start your build thread isnt it?

naw! yours looks pretty cool and i am sure you'll get alot of attention.

As for it being baller,you dont know my friends! They'll clown me if it didnt look like a brand new $100 bill.lol..

labeledsk8r
12-19-2007, 04:13 PM
...As for it being baller,you dont know my friends! They'll clown me if it didnt look like a brand new $100 bill.lol..

i have to agree though takeing that extra step to grind down the welds really gives it that extra touch... are you sending it in for ceramic coating?? or just leaveing it stock/heat wraping...

89T
12-19-2007, 04:25 PM
i have to agree though takeing that extra step to grind down the welds really gives it that extra touch... are you sending it in for ceramic coating?? or just leaveing it stock/heat wraping...
I am going to try and find someone here in town that does ceramic coatings and do that.hell i might just throw it on my accord just to see how it feels.

89T
12-31-2007, 08:12 PM
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/7530/xmas07105kc8.jpg
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/6499/xmas07104xw5.jpg
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/7762/xmas07103nl7.jpg
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/6949/xmas07106pc6.jpg

i was cold and for some reason they came out in black and white.
i call it old school pic's! lol

EricW
12-31-2007, 11:12 PM
Looks good but you really need to take some pics in better lighting conditions to see it really well.

bobafett
01-01-2008, 10:22 AM
wow looking great!

ZackieDarko
01-01-2008, 01:05 PM
thats a hell of a turbo

knarg
01-01-2008, 01:24 PM
that manifold looks awesome!! i want one!

89T
01-02-2008, 05:06 AM
thanks guys.i'll get better pics soon.

thegreatdane
01-03-2008, 09:34 AM
Great work! Which way are you going to point the compressor outlet?

That compressor side looks nice and big :) I'm excited to see how your dyno graph will look.

89T
01-06-2008, 03:31 PM
wow looking great!
thanks i appreciate it.


thats a hell of a turbo
nice and big lol.


that manifold looks awesome!! i want one!
make me a reasonable offer.


Great work! Which way are you going to point the compressor outlet?
its pretty much set. unless i get a water/air intercooler.
That compressor side looks nice and big :) I'm excited to see how your dyno graph will look.:cheers:i cant wait either. ive been lazy so i havent got new pics.

89T
01-10-2008, 05:23 PM
i had new pics but imageshack is f****ng up..:(

edit:for some reason i cant post full size pics. sorry.

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/8942/manifold049ca6.th.jpg (http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold049ca6.jpg)
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/4708/manifold041nw8.th.jpg (http://img81.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold041nw8.jpg)
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/6628/manifold048tc2.th.jpg (http://img246.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold048tc2.jpg)
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/7631/manifold047cb6.th.jpg (http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold047cb6.jpg)
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/6981/manifold044re4.th.jpg (http://img72.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold044re4.jpg)
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/4632/manifold043op9.th.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold043op9.jpg)
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/9328/manifold042fj0.th.jpg (http://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold042fj0.jpg)

labeledsk8r
01-10-2008, 05:28 PM
i had new pics but imageshack is f****ng up..:(

NOOOoooo0000ooo00OO lolol

photobucket FTW!!

89T
01-10-2008, 05:49 PM
got them up kinda..lol
it still needs some cleaning and i need to figure out where i want to put the wastegate.

labeledsk8r
01-10-2008, 05:53 PM
looks good man, tight fit. got a kinda stupid question... are you not going to be running a filter?? doesnt seem like you have room for one...

89T
01-10-2008, 06:15 PM
race car ftw!lol
na no filter,ill put in a screen if i drive it on the street.


there isn't going to be anything around the header..I am in the planning stages of my coupe being a step away from a full-race car. meaning a full wire tuck, and the removal of everything that doesn't hold the motor or need to be wired to the management.the coupe will also recive a 8 or 10 point roll cage and sub-frame connectors.
the motor is going to be pulled from the sedan and installed into the coupe. The coupe motor wiill be rebuilt turbo charged and installed into the sedan with an obd1 conversion. both will be converted to e-85 fuel.
both will have to be dynoed so the sedan will be tuned for 15psi and the coupe will recive 25-35psi.
this isn't going to be "I'll have it done in a month" type project.

labeledsk8r
01-10-2008, 07:03 PM
doh, i should read the first posts lolol, sounds good man, just looking at all these turbo builds going on is makeing me want to get started on my own. cant wait to get my life going so i can

89T
01-10-2008, 08:01 PM
it's all good.;)pm me when you are ready, i'll build you a manifold.

89T
04-24-2008, 03:35 AM
well i finally have some updated pics. I havent had a whole lot of time as of late, with work, famly, and trying to buy a house.
this winter about killed me so i have been playing catch up with no money to spend on the ride.
anyway i hope you enjoy!

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9533/apr040013li1.th.jpg (http://img211.imageshack.us/my.php?image=apr040013li1.jpg)
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/4373/apr040001ug9.th.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=apr040001ug9.jpg)
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9129/apr040016tu8.th.jpg (http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=apr040016tu8.jpg)
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/4200/manifold055di0.th.jpg (http://img412.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold055di0.jpg)
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/681/manifold054py5.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold054py5.jpg)
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/7125/manifold051vz9.th.jpg (http://img340.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold051vz9.jpg)
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/1522/manifold052kp2.th.jpg (http://img252.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold052kp2.jpg)
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/92/manifold050lb9.th.jpg (http://img340.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold050lb9.jpg)
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/7599/manifold055mj9.th.jpg (http://img254.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold055mj9.jpg)

89T
04-24-2008, 03:38 AM
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/8030/manifold054oe3.th.jpg (http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=manifold054oe3.jpg)

MessyHonda
04-24-2008, 06:32 PM
super nice

87roach
04-25-2008, 08:30 PM
Siiiiiiiiiiiiick setup man, damn I wish I had that!! Haha keep up the good work. :D

89T
04-26-2008, 06:08 AM
thanks guys, for the complements.
the cardboard was for mocking up a inconspicuous ram air box. i have all the metal cut but I have yet to Finnish it.
i went to a larger turbine housing, the turbo spools a bit slower but it feels strong.
i am still having trans problems.the trans doesn't want to shift into 3rd at high rpms or a heavy load.
oh well i am not even going to worry about it till i swap the motor into the coupe.