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View Full Version : Do I need a valve job?



dawlfandave
11-16-2007, 02:39 AM
I had a previous post about removing the crank pully bolt. Now after that issue has been solved, I put the timing belt on and everything back together. Before I bought the car it would not start because the timing belt cog pully had sheared the cogs right off of the TB. I was hoping it did not damage the valves. Question is do I need a valve job now? I went to start the engine after putting everything back together and it turned over. I tried to start it several times but it seemed to turn over slower and slower until it wouldnt even crank any more (battery is brank new). I checked to see if I am getting spark and I am, at the new spark plugs. I do not know if I am getting compression. Any help would be great THANKS!!

Hauntd ca3
11-16-2007, 10:40 AM
chances are that if that happened, you will have a bunch of bent valves.
take off tha cam cover and turn the motor over by hand and you should be able to see if the valves are moving thru there full range of travel.
if some dont, best to get a new head.
some times when you bend a valve it can stuff the guide,the valve head will cme off the stem and fuck that particular cylider completely.
holes in pistons and big gouges in the head arent un common

cygnus x-1
11-16-2007, 02:43 PM
There is much debate over the question of whether or not the A20 is an interference engine. The references all seem to say yes but anecdotal evidence seems to say no. My personal experience says no. I stripped out the timing belt on my Prelude (1.8L, almost identical valve train to the A20) going about 60MPH in 4th gear. Tried turning it over several times to restart. No valve or piston damage at all.

Turning over slower and slower is almost certainly a dead battery. Even a new battery can be dead if you leave a door or the trunk open for a long time. Check to see if the belt is installed right by lining up the timing marks on the flywheel to TDC and verifying that the arrow on the cam sprocket points directly up. Use a wrench to turn the crank but turn it forward only (counterclockwise). If the belt is installed right, charge up that battery and try again. If not, fix the belt and try again. It's easy to get the belt installed 1 or 2 teeth off.

C|

ZackieDarko
11-16-2007, 04:42 PM
lostforawhile looked into this and he said its non-interference


when he reubuilt his head he had a piston at TDC and pushed each valve in that cylinder down as far as they would go...even past anywhere you would get them during valve float..and he said that they were not close enough to touch

id put money down that your valves are fine

88Accord-DX
11-16-2007, 10:52 PM
If you don't have a timing light, check to see if the crankshaft & cam sprocket is lined up. Look at the lines on flywheel/flexplate through the inspection hole respect to cam line.
Another option is to do a compression check along with leak down test at TDC at each cylinder.

PEOPLE GET MIXED RESULTS WITH TIMING BELTS BREAKING! (so we won't go there)

Valve reliefs on tops of A20 pistons might save you, but not in some cases.

Blkblurr
11-17-2007, 07:09 AM
Do you have fuel getting to the pistons? Do a compression test on each cylinder. In my experience the valve trane is non interference. I have heard that a broken valve caused the timing belt to break.