B20a map (black box) removal

[nzBA1lude]

hey
i have a 2nd gen prelude with the 160hp version b20a race car
i am going to install individual throttle bodys but i have to find a way of removing or modifying the map sensor
a few thoughts i have had is combining all the current hoses into one tube and splitting that to run into all four pipes after the throttle units

or some later model handas run a single point map sensor unit on the plenum is there any way i can convert this to work onto a old b20a ecu

any other thoughts are appreciated
also anything i should know about doing this conversion
or links to pics of it being done

[A18A]

i would suggest just doing the splitting the hoses into the runners, like you mentioned. like this
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_projects/itb/welded.jpg
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_projects/itb/

[AccordB20A]

yup do it like that use the stock ecu loom wiring and sensors

[nzBA1lude]

thanks guys
although what do you think of his silicone hose joiners
do you think air flow would be greatly improved if i got them all tig welded together

[A18A]

if they are tight enough they should be all good :P afterall in that DIY it says that (whatever it came off) was like that from factory

[MessyHonda]

obd1 swap helps take off all thoes vac lines.

[AccordB20A]

we dont have any vacuum lines. Just the map sensor

[Hauntd ca3]

the only thing i'd be worried bout is how the factory ecu would react to a diff sensor or completely diff map signals.
even tho they have map and a tps, the factory ecu will be programed to recognise the map signals of a plenum chamber which wpould remain fairly constant w3here the quad throttles would most likely produce a diff poss uneven pulsing that might throw the ecu in to a tizz.
seeing you a kiwi, i'd go for the link plus
a mate runs one in his ae86 racer running quad throttles and its awesome.
think there is a guy in dorlkland who's a honda guru
cant think of his name of top of my head
and to clear it up, a map sensor reads vacum or below atmosphereic pressure where map gets its name.
manifold absolute pressure.
na motors are subject to near 14.7 psi at wot and pressure drops/vacum rises with lower throttle openings.
so even at idle there is prob a couple psi in the plenum.
so you can boast that you ri=un 14 psi and technically be correct

[cygnus x-1]

To keep the stock ECU happy you will probably need a vacuum accumulator to smooth the pulses from the runners. Here is one way to do it:

http://65.35.225.254:56789/Accumulator/Accumulator.jpg

You can also do like the picture above. Run a tee off of there and put a fuel filter between the tee and the MAP sensor. The air volume in the fuel filter smooths out the pressure pulses. The larger the filter, the greater the smoothing.

C|

[MessyHonda]

we dont have any vacuum lines. Just the map sensor



not even vac advance?

[A18A]

nope, electronic advance

[MessyHonda]

nice.

[nzBA1lude]

the only thing i'd be worried bout is how the factory ecu would react to a diff sensor or completely diff map signals.
even tho they have map and a tps, the factory ecu will be programed to recognise the map signals of a plenum chamber which wpould remain fairly constant w3here the quad throttles would most likely produce a diff poss uneven pulsing that might throw the ecu in to a tizz.
seeing you a kiwi, i'd go for the link plus
a mate runs one in his ae86 racer running quad throttles and its awesome.
think there is a guy in dorlkland who's a honda guru
cant think of his name of top of my head
and to clear it up, a map sensor reads vacum or below atmosphereic pressure where map gets its name.
manifold absolute pressure.
na motors are subject to near 14.7 psi at wot and pressure drops/vacum rises with lower throttle openings.
so even at idle there is prob a couple psi in the plenum.
so you can boast that you ri=un 14 psi and technically be correct

thanks
costs so far
buy the ccar $200
race brakes $120 (one hell of a trade discount)
exhaust manifold and exhaust $130
tyres $60
other bits and bobs $90

total so far is around $600
for a race car thats already blowing others into the weeds (god bless trade me)

so spending $1400 on a link is currently out of the question so i will try the idea of a vaccum accumulator first
somewhere down the track im planning on increasing compression to around 13:1 with high compression pistons and getting the block planed so will prob have to get a link then to run with the av gas

if u think of that guys name i would be interested in having a honda guru i could call

[nzBA1lude]

also off a vacuum accumulator i can still run the brake booster cant i or will it not like to keep up with pumps in quick succession

[cygnus x-1]

Should be fine with the brakes. Won't hurt to try it anyway.

C|

[AccordB20A]

Adding to that... Since you have a "race car" remove the brake booster and grow some good ol foot muscles hahaha
My mates building US a coil pack system for out B20A race car prelude. Going to be very interesting when its complete. The BA1 prelude is fuckin fast enuff when you strip it out lol. Stock B20a in a stripped out lude wood shit on nearly every car in town