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steveko
11-26-2007, 03:11 PM
I too have this issue but it's only when it's cold or first being started. It will die the first time then on the second crank it will start and stay running. This may be the problem but not sure theres not enough fuel getting too the carb I looked at my fuel filter which is clear glass replaceable filter. There is a dry run for a few seconds until it primes itself again. Could the fuel cut off switch be defective? And is it supposed supply power too the fuel pump upon turning the key but not cranking it.

russiankid
11-26-2007, 03:21 PM
I had this same problem. It happened to be my fuel pump going out. I replaced the fuel pump and the problem went away.

steveko
11-27-2007, 03:47 PM
I don't believe it's the fuel pump because it was replaced less then 2 years ago. Looking at the filter when I turn the key too the on position. I don't see any gas going into it.I thought someone in one of the threads., said,that the pump should run for like 3secs in the run position when the key is first turned on.

coope
11-27-2007, 04:08 PM
check the relay

88Accord-DX
11-27-2007, 06:46 PM
Not sure what model you have, but you can never fail by taking the line off to the fuel rail or carb, & see if your fuel pump is working. Problem is, without a fuel pressure tester. You need to measure the volume of fuel coming out in a certain amount of time.

russiankid
11-27-2007, 06:47 PM
Not sure what model you have, but you can never fail by taking the line off to the fuel rail or carb off & see if your fuel pump is working. Problem is, without a fuel pressure regulator, you need to measure the volume of fuel coming out in a certain amount of time.

He could also have a leaking hose somewhere, causing the fuel to drain back.

cubert
11-27-2007, 06:59 PM
I don't believe it's the fuel pump because it was replaced less then 2 years ago. Looking at the filter when I turn the key too the on position. I don't see any gas going into it.I thought someone in one of the threads., said,that the pump should run for like 3secs in the run position when the key is first turned on.

How many miles have been put on the car in those two years? If it was a cheapy pump it may have failed prematurely

88Accord-DX
11-27-2007, 08:08 PM
He could also have a leaking hose somewhere, causing the fuel to drain back.
Most likely with leaking hoses, it will be evident. It's all about testing the voltage to the fuel pump first, then checking pressure & volume.:)

russiankid
11-27-2007, 08:39 PM
Most likely with leaking hoses, it will be evident. It's all about testing the voltage to the fuel pump first, then checking pressure & volume.:)

True, but the fuel hose that comes from the firewall to the carb, on mine it was cracked but i did not find any gas leaking or any gas smells. I noticed it when i changed the filter.

steveko
11-28-2007, 05:54 PM
It' funny when I sit back and see the responses from everyone.It takes on a life of it's own.But too answer a few of you're questions.1st fuel pump is from Honda exclusively.
2nd I've checked the fuel pressure it's at 2.5psi.with the key on and relay jumped out.
3rd the fuel filter in the motor compartment is a clear glass replacable filter type. See original post.4th Yes I will check the relay. Oh by the way it's a 88Lx accord.

russiankid
11-29-2007, 07:08 AM
Does the car run rough at the first start up? Or does it start fine, jump to around 2500rpm and then just die?

carotman
11-29-2007, 12:48 PM
Mine does the same thing :(

If you pres on the gas while it's running on the 1st crank, does it still dies or it can catch up and keep running?

steveko
11-29-2007, 03:48 PM
Yes, now that you mention it russiankid. I'll pump the gas 2 times letting the pedal up slow after that 2nd pump.Crank it over it runs mabey 5sec then shuts off. Then without pumping the gas I'll crank it and it will run rough as you said until starts too slowly raise too about 2000rpm then it will drop down when fully warmed too idle about 800rpms.
Oh by the way carotman it does die if I do as you say.

russiankid
11-29-2007, 04:19 PM
I remember i had a problem with the slow choke heater making the car run rough when first started up. It wouldn't stall, but that could be your problem.

steveko
11-30-2007, 05:26 PM
I'll have too check the choke coil heater out this weekend.

Thanks, steveko.

carotman
12-01-2007, 07:33 AM
Check the float level in the morning if you can. The float bowl might be too low and the pump just doesn't keep up when you start it.

steveko
12-05-2007, 04:34 PM
I don't believe it's the float level like I said earlier the fuel filter runs dry the first start then catchs up on second start and stays running low Idle at first then works it's way up too 2000rpm mabey lower. I might have too bring the fast idle up a little higher. So it catchs on the cam and stays there.

steveko
12-09-2007, 09:25 AM
Update,I was looking at the fuel filter and it wasn't dry like I thought,so it may be the float bowl is low as mentioned. But I'll still have too bring the fast idle up.

steveko
12-31-2007, 03:17 PM
Hey, carotman You're guess I think was right on about the floatbowl level in the morning being low. Where is the gas going evaporating through the vents? I raised the float level slightly hopefully this works. Sorry for the delayed response.

steveko
01-12-2008, 04:34 PM
Update still dies after initial start.Float bowl does look low after this initial start. Any ideas,anyone?This is why I have other posts asking about the ignition coil.

carotman
01-12-2008, 07:41 PM
The ignition coil is what will supply the pulses for the fuel cutoff relay.

This might be related indeed.

steveko
01-13-2008, 09:57 AM
Hey,good too here from you again. I'm actually trying too describe this too lostforawhile on the technical page about voltage at the control unit terminal #11 under the seat.

2oodoor
01-13-2008, 04:43 PM
have a look at this thread link, sounds identical. Hope it helps.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57340&highlight=bowl+low

steveko
01-13-2008, 06:26 PM
Great find, is that the Air Vent Cut off Diaphram you're referring too.

A20A1
01-13-2008, 07:14 PM
those glass filters can leak at the ends by the rubber, it may not be that noticeable at first.
I ended up replacing mine with a FRAM clear plastic filter meant for domestic carburetted motors.

steveko
01-13-2008, 07:26 PM
I will look into that.I wiped it with toilet paper in the past too see if there was anything seeping.Yeah I know it seems funny but it works.

steveko
01-15-2008, 03:03 PM
I am going too give the fuel lines a good flush and check the filter at the tank. Also, check the fuel pump pressure.Not sure if the pump is coming on when the key is on too prime just another small thing too check.Will do this 1-17-08 at work. And give the results I no everybodys dying too here LOL.Later......

steveko
01-17-2008, 03:08 PM
Well checked everything out lines were good except for one that I replaced. Checked fuel pressure reads 2.4 to 2.5 psi in motor compartment. This is with the motor running.Voltage was 13.65v. Also,checked the pressure directly off the pump.Read the same.Pressure seem a little low compared too books specs 2.6 to 3.3 psi.Just too be sure I checked the Air vent cut off valve it's perfectly fine and so is the glass fuel filter free from leaks.Running out of ideas.

russiankid
01-17-2008, 03:25 PM
Did you check the lines coming from the charcoal canister? If they are cracked and leaking they could cause a problem. Also if the pump is not putting out enough PSI, the pump may need to be replaced.

steveko
01-17-2008, 03:46 PM
No can't say I've checked those It's funny you say that was'nt there a post about pressure escaping when the fuel cap is released. Reason being when I open my cap it definitely does that..Also, the pump read 2.5psi brand new, I pulled it out and the screen was clean.It's only 2years old.I think there might be something wrong with the 2 way valve.and my charcoal canister may have a crack.

russiankid
01-17-2008, 05:26 PM
The cap is meant to hold pressure inside, mine does it as well. All though this only happens in hotter weather, which is explainable by the heat on the gas. Which two way valve are speaking off?

steveko
01-18-2008, 03:07 PM
The one at the top of the gas tank.Besides that and the hoses that come off the canister.I've done diagnosis on all the control units vaccum and electrical.Only thing I have'nt tested in addition too these couple things and it's a big one is compression on all cylinders and a leak down test. I think for the hell of it I'm going too change all the ground wires for new ones tomorrow.

steveko
02-19-2008, 04:02 PM
Update the choke heater just died today. I went too start it in the morning and it died as usual but then would not restart without my foot on the pedal slightly. Checked the choke plate and it was fully open. I guess I'll have too check the linkage and the power feed and see which one it is.

steveko
02-20-2008, 03:14 PM
It looks as though the choke linkage fell out coming off the choke plate cotter key was missing. I also noticed that it does'nt close completely mabey the coil has lost some tension or it needs adjustment. Man I knew I should have put screws back on that cover plate dam. Well live and learn.

steveko
02-26-2008, 04:06 PM
Still dies after intial start problem remains.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...light=bowl+low

About this post did his problem ever get solved? Also, russiankid said someting about the slow choke heater.Is that the vaccum operated choke?