Installing Oil Pressure gauge..

[Tdurr]

So i wanna put my gauge in(mechanical) and searched and found this pic http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/labeledsk8r/oilunit.jpg and is that really the stock pressure gauge? if so lame... cuz its soo hard to get to with a wrench....is there any other way to install one with out taking alot of stuff apart?

P.S. wut size it it?
~T-Dur

[88Accord-DX]

There is a size called NPT. (not sure of which size) I just went to the auto parts store. Showed them my oil pressure sensor & they sized it up to what I needed. They should be able to tell by looking it up on the computer I would think.

[labeledsk8r]

hey lol a pic of my engine!! lol yes thats it and its a pain. the thread that pic was originaly in talked about all the fittings i belive, even had the sizes listed by another member and i think going from underneath the car will be your best bet

[lostforawhile]

i have a good write up somewhere on here,it's not 1/8 npt,the thread size on the sender is 1/8 bsp, you need an adaptor to make it work,they don't cost very much. you need to go from a bsp thread to an npt thread.

[lostforawhile]

here is the thread read the entire thread,it's all the info you need to know. http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62848

[Pico]

here this will help.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=814899&postcount=23

[Tdurr]

so which kind of thread adapator do i need? one that goes into the oil filter thing on the block? and wut size is the stock unit on there? i cant seem to get the right size. And any easy ways to take it off without removing the intake manifold?

[lostforawhile]

so which kind of thread adapator do i need? one that goes into the oil filter thing on the block? and wut size is the stock unit on there? i cant seem to get the right size. And any easy ways to take it off without removing the intake manifold?
um click on the link in the post two posts before this one,that thread has all the info,including what you need and where to get it. the threads are 1/8 bsp in the top of the oil filter adaptor,you need an adaptor with male 1/8 bsp threads on one end, and female 1/8 NPT threads on the other end. this will you allow you to screw in the tubing adaptor from most oil pressure gauge kits. you don't need to remove the intake manifold, theres a plastic cover over the sender screwed into the top of the oil filter,adaptor,usually that cover breaks off,then you just unscrew the sender from under the car. heres the thread link again http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62848

[88Accord-DX]

so which kind of thread adapator do i need? one that goes into the oil filter thing on the block? and wut size is the stock unit on there? i cant seem to get the right size. And any easy ways to take it off without removing the intake manifold?

Without the right sensor socket, it takes a 24mm wrench. In your case, might have to use some slip joint pliers to get it off. Once you get it off, take it to Napa or O'Riellys part store, they will size it up for the fitting. NBT to BPT.

I would say take off the oil filter base, but you can't because the nut behind the sensor.

[lostforawhile]

i put the link up to msc for the proper adaptor, it's 1/8 bsp all honda oil pressure switches are as far as i know,i put in the gauge and ran a warning light switch that comes on around 20 psi,not 3 like factory. most aftyermarket senders are 1/8 npt,as well as most all aftermarket gauges.

[88Accord-DX]

What do you think about this question Lostforawhile?


And any easy ways to take it off without removing the intake manifold?

[AccordEpicenter]

use this adaptor http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-blockfit.shtml

highest quality fitting youll find

[Tdurr]

alright 24mm wrench.. that should help... and then hooking up the back light so it can be dimmed. I saw somewhere it said that dimmer controls the negative side, is that true? And witch wire in the igniton switch controls the lil glowing ring around the keyhole?(thats wut i wanna tap into for the dimmer cuz i dont wanna rip the dash apart)

[lostforawhile]

alright 24mm wrench.. that should help... and then hooking up the back light so it can be dimmed. I saw somewhere it said that dimmer controls the negative side, is that true? And witch wire in the igniton switch controls the lil glowing ring around the keyhole?(thats wut i wanna tap into for the dimmer cuz i dont wanna rip the dash apart)if hook up the light on the gauge,you need to have one with a seprate positive and negative wire. the dimmer controls ground,

[88Accord-DX]

Tap into the potentionometer on the dash for that dimming effect.

[Tdurr]

where is the pot at?(ROFL) just in the switch? If so i should be able to tap into any wire comming out the dimmer switch and get a 12v acc. cable and it would work?

[88Accord-DX]

where is the pot at?(ROFL) just in the switch? If so i should be able to tap into any wire comming out the dimmer switch and get a 12v acc. cable and it would work?

The pot. is on the left side of the dash, little knob that turns left & right. Use test light on it & see if it has 12V source. Not sure what way it works without messing with it.

[lostforawhile]

no don't tap into that,that controls the box that is mounted to the bottom side of that panel,under your steering colum, where the dinger thing is. one of those wires is a controlled ground.

[88Accord-DX]

The patent on dimming DC powered lights is as follows.

A light dimmer control system for controlling the current supplied from a DC power source to high power illuminating lamps. The current fed to the lamp is controlled by manually setting the width of the pulsed output of a pulse width modulator by means of a potentiometer or the like appropriately connected to the pulse width modulator. The output of the pulse width modulator drives an output driver circuit which is connected in series with the current path to the lamp. The lamp power is provided from a DC source which is controlled by the output driver circuit in series with the lamp. The power for the semiconductor components of the DC controller, which includes the pulse width modulator, is provided from the same DC source and stepped down by a DC-DC converter. A logical control circuit is employed which enables the energization of the system only when both the polarity of the DC input supply is correct and the low voltage DC is on, thereby minimizing the possibility of damaging system components.

[Oldblueaccord]

I used the light in the ash try. Any thing that is turned on by the light switch is ok.


wp

[Tdurr]

thanks guys, i got it done, tape the 12v+ from the red/black wire comming from the dimmer plug, and then just grounded it, comes on when ever the lights do. but now 4+5th gear is gone... so its useless...

[88Accord-DX]

but now 4+5th gear is gone... so its useless...

Is that auto, what happened?

[Tdurr]

i dono, test drove it to make sure no leaks, heard a clanking sound, checked tranny fluid, black and metallic/metal shavings and i just refilled it a few weeks ago when i put in the new axle so yea... im sad... lol its a 5speed, but now im just gonna do a hybrid tranny :D

[A20A1]

use this adaptor http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-blockfit.shtml

highest quality fitting youll find



nice find :eatarrow:

[Tdurr]

Oh and for anyone else doing this, take out the batt. blew 2 70amp fuses by hitting the back of the alt with the wrench :(

[clark_486]

just did this my self.

#1 i found that installing a 90deg block fitting then attaching nipple and t- off for gauge and stock sender allowed for all this to fit in there with clearance. Also you can see what you are working on!

#2 Go with copper tubing for the engine compartment , the nylon can melt/deform. After you get though the firewall then you can either stay with the copper or use the nylon as it can bend easier for installation.

#3 The only part you have to remove is the oil filter and thats just so you can get you hand up there and swing a wrench.

#4 If you choose to not reinstall the old pressure switch the 90 deg block and nipple will make it easier to see, line up, etc.


heres the 90 :
http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/images/products/preview/knn216-050br.jpg

will post more pics if requested

[lostforawhile]

the problem with putting all those fittings off of the oil filter housing is with engine vibration they willl tend to break from leverage. the furthur out from the threads the more likely they are to break. best to run one line from the filter housing and clamp all the t fittings away from the engine. also never run that dam plastic line anywhere including in the car, i just had one break and i have to pull my dash to clean out the mess. run copper or braided line. also check msc direct for that adaptor, same thing much cheaper. i think mine was like 3 dollars.

[Tdurr]

hehe i got a shit load of the plastic lines(broke like 4 brass fitting) so im just gonna use that for now....