87roach's 1987 S Hatch Build

[87roach]

Well I tried changing back to the stock wiring(to the best of my recollection) and I'm still not getting any spark. I'm going to hit up the junkyard and try to do a bit of research there.. I'm not quite sure what else to do since the problem seems to be elsewhere. Hmm. I don't exactly have the time for fixing it these days because I moved. It sucks too because this is the time of year I want to be driving around!

[Rendon LX-i]

True another ecu

[Tdurr]

Hmmm... I have no idea here...

[Tdurr]

U getting no spark from the coil right?

[elpuma]

Any updates??

[87roach]

Nope no updates on the hatch.

The only other ecu I have to try is a p28 I believe, I'll have to stick that on and see if anything happens.

I'd really like another accord to troubleshoot from, see if I am getting voltage in the correct places etc. However, that probably won't happen.. I'm not quite sure what I am going to do. Pull the dashboard and mull over the wiring I suppose.. hmm.

Last I remember I wasn't getting any power from the blue wire that goes to the coil, I can't remember if this is suppose to supply a constant voltage or not(I know it's the tach signal but the wire connects to other things in the circuit too).

[89T]

the blue is a grounding signal from the ecu. The black and yellow is the ignition power.

[Gemini2003]

Hello Friend!!

I'm back from the dead on here, I will have a shop to work in starting Sept 1st. I have my project accord still and it's running :-) If you need help I'm around and do make trips to pen every couple weeks (my apologies I have not read much of this thread (will later)) .
Btw i was drooling over some of the pics a few pages back and realised it's your car and you are only like 30 min away ha ha

[elarson88]

I just read this whole thread and wow this is dedication! Sounds like your really close to starting it up. Don't give up!

[87roach]

Thanks guys.

No updates here, after I got the mini up and running I haven't been out to the shop much. It was much easier to just go outside to work on thing's when I lived there but now an almost 2 hour drive makes it challenging.

The troubleshooting will start again hopefully early next year, I have other things to focus on in the meantime.. but I better get it going and ready for next year!

[gfrg88]

I applaud you for not giving up and sticking to this long project. Can't wait til it's running!

[Rendon LX-i]

Nope no updates on the hatch.

The only other ecu I have to try is a p28 I believe, I'll have to stick that on and see if anything happens.

I'd really like another accord to troubleshoot from, see if I am getting voltage in the correct places etc. However, that probably won't happen.. I'm not quite sure what I am going to do. Pull the dashboard and mull over the wiring I suppose.. hmm.

Last I remember I wasn't getting any power from the blue wire that goes to the coil, I can't remember if this is suppose to supply a constant voltage or not(I know it's the tach signal but the wire connects to other things in the circuit too).

Sounds to me you have a bad msd box. Ran into no start issues with msd box frying on me. Try bypassing it an go from there


Thanks guys.

No updates here, after I got the mini up and running I haven't been out to the shop much. It was much easier to just go outside to work on thing's when I lived there but now an almost 2 hour drive makes it challenging.

The troubleshooting will start again hopefully early next year, I have other things to focus on in the meantime.. but I better get it going and ready for next year!

Good to see you not throwing in the towel Andrew .

[Rendon LX-i]

Bump

[Tdurr]

super bump. I thought this was gonna have a running vid :(

[89T]

I am still willing to help

[89T]

Bump

[89T]

Bump

What he said

[Rendon LX-i]

What he said

what she said.

[89T]

what big daddy said.
Fixed!

[Rendon LX-i]

Hahaah

[Hazwan]

I was expecting an update too :(

[obdriver6]

I think he forgot about us! :(

[Pico]

Bump

[Rendon LX-i]

he did have a mini cooper he just bought so idk.

[Tdurr]

super bump.

[Tdurr]

Roach!!! tell me something has been done to fix ur ignition problem!

[AccordB20A]

no updates for a year (N)

[Civic Accord Honda]

:( bring us an update!

[2ndGenGuy]

Updates!

[Tdurr]

somebody just call him!

[Gemini2003]

haha I see Roach rolling around once and a while I'll try to flag him down the next time I see him

[j3wman]

I love this build. This is a great hatch.

[Tdurr]

needs more updates!

[87roach]

Hey guys... long time, far too long in fact! I haven't been on here since basically my last post(great shame I feel for abandoning my 3geez family).

I have to go through the site and see what everyone has been up to but the most pressing thing is the hatch. It is still pretty much the exact same as when I last posted(unfortunately rats have desecrated my engine bay but nothing is chewed thankfully.

There is still no spark and push has come to shove. The garage space I am using will no longer be mine as of April 30 so I HAVE to try and get my hatch going or I will end up parking it somewhere and continuing to live in regret!

So as of today I have brought the hatch into the garage and started to make a list and troubleshoot. The list I have started to put together contains everything I can test on my own, what lights work, do the fuses work and when, do the gauges turn on etc. etc. and so far so good, just about everything works except for Fuse #15 has no power and the headlight re-tractors don't move(headlights work though). As some of you may remember though, the most pressing issue is no spark and so I have started to go back and research what I might have missed, I have to go through the last few of my pages to see exactly what was happening too.

I am basically calling all help at this point, I would love to get my hatch going this year so it can stop sitting around rotting and doing nothing. I will post again when I make some more progress, I only have a week and a bit to make this possible!

[89T]

Check for power at the distributor harness or at the coil.

[2ndTimeHondaOwner]

My igniter on the dizzy is bad. It won't ohm the way the book says it should, and the car won't run at all with it removed. Might be something to look at if you have tha (Tec) dizzy

[87roach]

Check for power at the distributor harness or at the coil.
Hey man, glad to hear you're still in there. I have to visit your thread again and get updated to see where the beasty is at!

Okay I will check for power and write down my findings. I know there is power at the coil and it's passing through it but I will get back to you with the exacts I find.


My igniter on the dizzy is bad. It won't ohm the way the book says it should, and the car won't run at all with it removed. Might be something to look at if you have tha (Tec) dizzy

This is interesting. I haven't found a test on the igniter yet for ohms, is this in the service manual? I am currently going through the 90-93 service manual online, but it's 2000 pages with no functioning index so it's taking me a long as time to go through it. Do you have some sort of link or diagram or explanation on what exactly to test? Which terminals, etc.

So I haven't found any shorted fuses or anything which leads me to believe there are no shorts or open circuits that have been crossed. And since the distributor is getting power I am wondering if the ECU is not getting power to send the signal through A22 and A21 pins. I still have to look into it but I thought it might be a possibility.

[2ndTimeHondaOwner]

| Repair Guides | Electronic Ignition | Diagnosis And Testing | AutoZone.com (http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Honda-Accord-Prelude-1984-1995-Repair-Guide/ELECTRONIC-IGNITION/Diagnosis-and-Testing/_/P-0900c1528005f3b3)
This is the same test that is in my repair book. On (Fig.5) it says "approximately 50,000 ohms" I get 0 ohms from mine, but the car still runs and works well. If I remove the igniter from the dizzy she won't start at all. Just thought maybe something for you to check on yours. Do you know if the fuel pump is getting power/supplying fuel to the engein?

[89T]

Check the bundle of grounds on the intake manifold aswell.

[89T]

This might help.
Honda Acura ignition (no spark) troubleshooting tutorial - How to (http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html#4)

[87roach]

Thank you 2ndtime and Jerry for the links, those have been very informative and helpful. I have been going through all of it this morning trying to figure out what works and what doesn't.

Okay so my findings so far:

-Fuses are OK, Key Ignition is OK(I haven't done the test from that article yet but it hasn't shown me signs on failing), connectors and wire's look to be ok.

-When I turn the key to ON, the fuel pump turns ON for 2 seconds and then goes off.
-The ECU light comes on and then goes off, audible click heard.
-Pulled the Main relay and the solder looks OK. I did not bench test it or test the harness connector.

This leads me to believe that the Main Relay is OKAY.

Next I tested the connections at the coil with my power tester:

-Turned key to ON.
-("A" in image)Large connector black/yellow HAS power(test light goes on).
-("B" in image)Large connector blue wire has NO power.
-("C" in image)Small connector blue HAS power.
-("D" in image)Small connector black HAS power.

http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images//0900c152/80/05/f3/c2//medium/0900c1528005f3c2.gif

Coil and Igniter tests:

-Connected the power tester clip to the battery Positive and the probe end into "C" (small blue), cranked the engine and NO LIGHT. In the article this tells me that the coil is OKAY.
-I hooked up the power tester to the injector connector on cylinder 3, cranked the engine and the power tester BLINKS, this tells me the ECU is working and sending messages. I also tested cylinder 1 and it works too.

Igniter Input Test:
-I used my power tester to test if there is power at the black/yellow and blue terminals, BOTH have power when the key is turned ON.
-Okay so I found power, next you are suppose to disconnect the white/blue(green on mine) wire from the igniter, OK.
-Now that the wire is disconnected I am suppose to check for battery voltage between the white/blue(green on mine) and ground. I get some voltage on the multimeter but it does NOT illuminate my test light.

One thing that still has me confused is where the GREEN wire on the distributor wire should be going. I Have found multiple topics that say it should be going to "COIL NEGATIVE" but there is no indication of what terminal or wire that actually is, so can someone please tell me exactly what wire "Coil Negative" is? My green distributor wire is going to the "Noise Condenser" box thing, with the other wire coming from the black/yellow.

Unfortunately I don't have images so I just have to describe everything through text.

Back to testing..

[87roach]

The battery I am using shows around 12.6v at the battery and goes below 9v when cranking(around 8.8v or so). However with a battery charger I have, when I hook that up and set the charger to the "jump" setting, I am registering 13-14v at the battery and over 9v when cranking. I thought I might have a low power issue but this didn't seem to change anything, it seemed to turn over a little better with the added power but no spark yet.

I am also registering 24psi on the fuel pressure gauge, this is just from me turning the car on and and off for tests and I'm really just noting this as it's holding pressure WITHOUT leaking, so that's good.

[Oldblueaccord]

The probe you're using is grounding the coil, causing it to charge. Then when you remove it the coil discharges through the high voltage side, which is exactly what it's supposed to do. It sounds like you have a bad ignitor, or the ignitor is not being triggered. This green wire from the distributor is connected to the ignitor right? In a normal A20 distributor the ignitor would be triggered from the 4 tooth wheel (in the distributor), but with OBD1 it would be triggered by the ECU. You won't really be able to test the ignitor with a test light since the pulse from it will be too fast to see. A scope would be best. Although you might be able to see the pulse with an old analog type volt meter by watching for a blip in the needle. The output of the ignitor is a "ground" though, so you would connect the positive lead of the meter to the + side of the battery and the negative meter lead to the output of the ignitor (disconnect the ignitor from the coil). While cranking the engine, blips on the meter would show that the ignitor is firing.

You will almost certainly need a scope to test the ECU output to the ignitor as it's a rather fast low voltage signal.

C|

Jumpinh in the middle.

Your sure your rotor is turning? And if you have an msd ditch it for the time being.

[87roach]

100% positive the rotor is turning, I checked TDC as well and it looks good(cam gear up, flywheel showing mark, and rotor at cylinder at #1).

I am NOT using anything MSD, I am currently diagnosing with the stock coil.

I also seem to have lost that signal testing tool so I will have to find an LED to make a new one to try that test again.. or find something to measure hertz or find an affordable power probe..

[Tdurr]

oh snap. yes hes back. let me run through ur last few pages and see where you left off at man...

[Tdurr]

okay sounds dumb but replace your rotor button. I had mine get a hairline crack and it grounded out on itself so the plug wires didnt get spark. Just my 2cents, its like 8 bucks so double check. Ive had the weird parts go bad on me.

[87roach]

Hey Tim,

Do you mean just the rotor? I don't know what a rotor button is? Got a picture for me?

Thanks for the help guys, it's all appreciated.

[87roach]

Well I'm going to head to the junkyard today to see what I can find, I think I'll keep a look out for and ecu, distributor, and take some notes on the wiring..

I think my ecu is okay though because I unhooked the tps, map, and I am getting the 5v there and the check engine light comes on.

What I think I've got wrong is my coil wiring... at least I am not certain about it, is it worth it to grab a 1993 accord coil and use that?

[87roach]

Okay, this is where I am stumped:

"1992-93 ACCORD
Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the inner cover.
Disconnect the black/yellow, light green, yellow/green and blue wires from the igniter.
Check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON. If voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition coil and the igniter.
Check for voltage between the light green wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON. If voltage is not present, check the ignition coil and the light green (black/white) wire between the ignition coil and the igniter. My green does NOT go to the ignition coil, is green also suppose to be supplied by a 12v switched power source??
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Check the yellow/green wire between the engine control module and the igniter for continuity. Also check the blue wire between the tachometer and the igniter for continuity.
Check the resistance between the terminals which connect to the blue and light green wires. It should be between 1,100-3,300 ohms. If not, the igniter must be replaced.


Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/honda/1j982-own-92-honda-accord-problem-started-maybe-month.html#ixzz3XaMnmj9Y"

[89T]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/de435ace220c6b6c1a67914313442aa1.jpg

[89T]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/749ada041745cc82802c9fbe1958cef3.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/696216c1f830001cec581c8599294428.jpg

[89T]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/6bbf07245de749db28d2294e53a852de.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/45bf1fe00ed3a06d52e6ebae8da056ae.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/dd8d8d9e726c00f64ccc980d9ad1ca6f.jpg

Right out of Haynes manual.

[89T]

Fuse 15 is the power for the distributor. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/a886e988126bf56bd8386bb78b58a062.jpg

[89T]

That was a civic diagram, so

[Tdurr]

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//193/large/3036014_bwd_d712z_pri_larg.jpg

This guy. A "nice" one is 10 from autozone man.

[87roach]

Tim, I have a new one but I guess I could always grab another since it's pretty affordable(like you say). I am not even getting spark at the coil so I haven't even been as far as the rotor yet.

Jerry. Okay, thanks for the great images! I appreciate it a lot and here are my findings:

My Ohm readings for the sensors:
-CKP = 380 ohms
-CYP = 373 ohms
-TDC = 374 ohms

With the limits between 350-700 it seems to be just barely in there. I checked for continuity between ground and each sensor terminal and it does NOT exist, ok that's good. ICM resistance between blue and green wire = 2,200 ohms, this looks to be well within the limits, ok good.

ICM voltage check:
-Test battery voltage, it reads 12.5v
-Take wires off of igniter
-Key ON
-black/yellow wire = 12.25v
-blue wire = 12.25v
-yellow/green wire = 0.01v
-GREEN wire = starts at 2.0v and slowly counts down to 0.06v after about 30 seconds. This also looks to have diminishing returns, so the next time I prod it(without turning the key back on and off) it would read 0.12v and slowly count down to 0.06v again.

Okay so it's not getting voltage, this looks to be my problem? However, I still don't know where it should go as it is still connected to the little noise box.

I also checked for voltage at fuse #15 and I didn't get any at any point, I turn the key, I cranked the engine, turn the lights on, pressed the brakes, etc. NO voltage. So I am going to go through that "awardspace" ignition guide and see what happens with that because it might be the culprit... I think I'm making progress, at least I hope I am. Unforunatley I have to go do stuff for today and tomorrow but I will be right back on it come sunday so I'll report my findings then.

Thanks again for the help... hopefully the problem will be solved next week. God that would be nice.

[89T]

So run a jumper wire with a 5 amp fuse to the accessory side of the fuse. See if it starts, or at least it got power to the distributor
What does the fuse box say fuse 15 is for?

[89T]

If I read the diagram right. The power to the distributer comes from the main relay. Get one from the junk yard and at least try it.

[87roach]

So run a jumper wire with a 5 amp fuse to the accessory side of the fuse. See if it starts, or at least it got power to the distributor
What does the fuse box say fuse 15 is for?

#15 is labeled "(L Tail Light)", although this doesn't make much sense since the tail lights don't seem to be powered separately. I also tried the jumper and I didn't notice anything happening via sound or visual, no blown fuse either so I don't really know what's up with it or what it might do.. that'll take more research but I don't even know if it's the problem.


If I read the diagram right. The power to the distributer comes from the main relay. Get one from the junk yard and at least try it.

Okay, I grabbed a "new" main relay, plugged it in and no changes. This by the way is one of the worst damn things to change on the car, argh.

I did hook up an LED light with the positive going to the battery and the ground going to the yellow/green ecu signal wire to the distributor, it BLINKS when I crank so now I know that the ecu is sending the message. Okay, good.

This still leaves me wondering where the Green wire is suppose to go. I currently have it hooked up the exact same way the 89 accord has it(external coil), the smaller coil connector has a black and a blue wire that go to that two pin connector on the distributor that go directly to the ignitor. The Green wire in the 8 in connector goes directly to the noise condenser, however, on the 93 accord this wire goes directly to the external coil via black/white wire, and the 93 accord only has 3 wires in the external coil(large black/white, large yellow, and the smaller black/white).

However, according to this image below, the Green distributor wire should be hooked up to the blue wire(or so I am told). Which blue though? Because the blue going into the coil(large connector) has no power, the blue going out of the coil(smaller connector) has power when the key is ON. Are they both suppose to have power? Why doesn't the larger one?

http://3geez.com/uploads/images/msd2.jpg

I'm going to check the ignition and see if there is anything up with that..

[89T]

If I remember correctly both blues and both blacks need to be wired together.

[89T]

It's like an internal jumper

[89T]

http://www.3geez.com/forum/how/72625-accel-coil-how-install.html

[87roach]

Okay so I found this and this is pretty much my same problem except I am not currently using an MSD coil(although I do have one I could try?)


Problem: No spark at the coil wire.

It is wired as follows....
From Factory wiring harness.....big black/yellow sends 12volts to positive side of MSD coil. From positive side of MSD coil a small black/yellow sends 12 volts into the Hitachi distributor.

From negative side of MSD coil, two wires:
Wire 1 is a small blue wire that sends 12 volts back into the factory harness....probably sends a signal to the tach or to activate the fuel pump. Wire 2 is a small blue wire that sends 12 volts into the Hitachi distributor. When 12 volts go to the positive side of the MSD coil, both wires on the negative side also have 12 volts.

3rd wire from factory harness is a small black/yellow wire that goes into a condersor......labelled as "136 A 250-0.47". and comes out a small black wire that is grounded to the distributor body. When 12 volts is on the positive side of the coil, the wire going into the condensor has 12 volts...the black wire
coming out the condensor that is grounded to the distributor body has nothing. I tried swapping condensors....it still tests 12 volts coming in, nothing coming out the small black wire. PLugs on the condensor are male/female so they cannot be plugged in backwards.

I did a continuity test and the coil wire conducts electricity. . How can there be 12 volts coming into the positive side of the coil and
out the negative side with no spark being generated out the coil wire?

Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.-Bob

I have 3 different coils to potentially try, I have the stock accord external coil, I have the MSD blaster ss coil box type(the one I didn't seem to have luck with before), and then I have a round other msd type(it has no label so I don't know the make).

Should I try swapping these other coils in or is it a separate issue outside of the coil?

[89T]

Make sure to follow the link provided

[87roach]

Whoa Jerry you're quick!

Thank you for the link, it is very easy to follow.

I guess I will go try the accel type coil I have. Do I tie in the Green distributor wire to the negative side as well?

[89T]

Pic

[87roach]

Okay.

So after looking at those coil images I noticed on my own coil that the smaller connector the black and blue wires were in the wrong spot. So I pulled out the pins and corrected it so that the blue was now on top and the black was on the bottom. Okay, I turn the key and no spark.. dang, I however check the ignitor and now the blue wire terminal has voltage, good, it didn't before. I try my other honda coil and check for spark but nothing.. Okay, let's try my accel look-a-like. I cut the black/yellow wires, tie them together and connect them to the positive side, I cut the blues and connect them to the negative side, okay. Check for spark.. nothing.

Argh, okay, so I then connect the green wire to the negative side of the coil with the blues and at this point if there is no spark I don't know what else to try... turn the key and THERE IS SPARK!

Holy **** my heart is racing. Next I put things back together and check for spark at each of the plugs, yes there is spark at each of the plugs, so now I have seemed to fix the spark problem!!!!!!!!!! Yea!!!!! Okay I am going to clean things up and turn the key... holy **** after all these years and I think now is the moment.

[89T]

Well hurry up. I am in suspense

[87roach]

Me too dude!!!

Okay well I have some ether and there is some firing action going on!! But the fuel I have is 3 years old now and it's not catching so I think I am going to drain it and get some new stuff.

SHE'S GONNA LIVE BOYS.

[89T]

1 hour.... deadline.
Most people work better under pressure.

[87roach]

It runs Jerry!!!!

It very loud so I can't tell what's happening but it's alive!

Thanks so much for the help.. now on to figuring out what else needs to be sorted out. I'll be back with another update later today I imagine.

[89T]

Happy to help. You sound pretty stoked and that's all I can ask for.

[87roach]

Much appreciated! And yes I am very stoked, I wanted this day years ago!!

Okay so now that the 3geez is alive and running there will be issues to figure out. I don't currently have a demon/neptune so I can't do a whole lot of changes but I can do a few.

Today's findings:

-So initially she started after some fuss, ether, and throttle play, wooooooo.
-There was a lot of smoke from the exhaust wrap but I think that has nearly burned off now.
-I ran and stopped the car a few times to see what was happening and such.
-All the gauges work, including the new ones(actually the fuel sender is not working but I think that was an old problem). I am getting volt read outs, oil temp, oil pressure, vacuum, egt, wideband, all of these are registering readings so that's good!

Start car #1(not literal but for this documentation)
-Idle set to 1200rpm'ish - runs clear.
-Get's up to temperature(fan comes on)
-Check engine light comes on and she starts running very rich, lots of blue smoke.
-Shut car off.
-Codes showing are 4 and 8, 4 is the "Crank Angle Sensor", 8 is the "TDC Position".

Start #2
-Disconnect battery long enough to reset ECU.
-Start up again, runs clear, the idle is lower though.
-Check engine light goes on again after a few minutes, burns very rich.
-Codes 8 come up and 9, but 9 goes away and only 8 remains(not sure why). 9 is "#1 cylinder position".

Start #3
-Reset ecu again.
-No ECU codes.
-A little bit of blue out of the exhaust.
-Fuel pressure is set to 40psi(per default), the AEM chart lists 89 accord from 37-41psi, I however have to do the math to find out the exact pressure but I figure this is okay for now??
-Engine gets up to temperature.
-Idle rpm's fluctuating, I originally set it at around 1200rpm and it sort of fell down to 700rpm after a few starts and stops.
-There were times where I could twist the throttle and it wouldn't rev up, just sort of bog, most other times it would rev up.

So my next question is, what would cause those codes to be thrown? 4 and 8 primarily. There is some noise from the engine, a slight ticking from the valves I believe and some other noise but it's hard for me to tell because the exhaust is so damn loud. I also haven't heard this car run in 3-4 years or any other accord so I don't exactly know what normal is anymore.

All plugs are black with carbon.
What gap should I set them to?
Should I be advancing the timing? What to?
What should fuel pressure be set to for now?
There is also a leak from the oil filter sandwich plate where the oil temp sender is located so I will have to take a look at that.. I hope it's the only leak.

Although I only have the stock ecu(PR4), I was hoping to be able to perhaps change a few of the mechanical things to at least get a bit of a stable running engine. And perhaps figure out why the engine codes are being thrown, so any help is appreciated.

Next I am going to fab an exhaust so I can hear what is going on!! I still have to put everything back together in the interior too and address the engine bay wiring at some point.

[89T]

Gap= .28 . Set the timing to stock specs for the accord. 41 psi is stock pressure with the vacuume line unplugged.

My best guess on the codes are that the wires are backwards or somthing moved or got bumped in the dizzy. I'd start there. The car running rough can be the stock map aswell. The map you want is for a p72.

[Tdurr]

Holy shit alot happened while i was working yesterday! Congrats on getting it figured out. Jerry is the main when it comes to trouble shooting. We need vids btw.

Oh and you are the first one to be using that manifold after the group buy.

If you run the stock p72 you'll end up with a eld check engine light, and it will be stupid rich all the time. Get neptune asap.

[89T]

Then you can disable it.

[MessyHonda]

Welcome back Roach! I'm glad the car is running. Now its time to turbo.

[87roach]

Gap= .28 . Set the timing to stock specs for the accord. 41 psi is stock pressure with the vacuume line unplugged.

My best guess on the codes are that the wires are backwards or somthing moved or got bumped in the dizzy. I'd start there. The car running rough can be the stock map aswell. The map you want is for a p72.

I set the plugs and pressure to those, I hope it'll run better as I haven't tried it yet. I will also be taking a look at those wires too, double checking at this point is well worth it!


Holy shit alot happened while i was working yesterday! Congrats on getting it figured out. Jerry is the main when it comes to trouble shooting. We need vids btw.

Oh and you are the first one to be using that manifold after the group buy.

If you run the stock p72 you'll end up with a eld check engine light, and it will be stupid rich all the time. Get neptune asap.

Thanks man. I don't know what group buy you are talking about? My manifold is custom. I also intend to get neptune going but the price is high and I'm not sure I'll be able to get it right now! Very tempting though.. still lots to do though..

And Messy, the turbo is on it man!

Okay so today I continued on the tidy up. I've got most of the interior back together, I haven't finished that because I still have to wire/install my turbo timer so once I do that I can put everything back together for good. I also have made good progress on the exhaust, the straight part was easy! I am now onto the back bendy section and I will get that done tomorrow, I figure.

Now onto a separate issue.. so as I was under the car sizing up what to do for the exhaust, I noticed that on the turbo(hot side) there are some very small what look to be drips. Now I originally thought this was paint because the paint was smoking and I thought it might have melted. Well now I think it's just coked up oil. So after some research it appears that this can be caused by too much pressure going into the turbo or oil backing up and filling the turbo and not draining properly, or a cracked turbo. So I think it's probably the drainage issue... I took off the oil feed line and it's clear and no problems there.. I have to take off the drain hose tomorrow and see what's up, I will also replace it with some new hose just to make sure. I also took off the IC piping and everything is clean and clear, but how do I explain the smoke while running? I don't think oil in the turbo leaking into the hot side would burn up... but I could be wrong?

What do you think Jerry? Is my turbo filling with oil? What else could it be and how can I address the problem? I wish I could show some pictures.. I don't have my computer, but maybe I can figure something out.

[89T]

What size is the feed line and return line?

[87roach]

The feed line is a -03 AN line and the return looks to be 5/8 hose.

The feed also has a reducer on it, which makes it a little bit smaller and I don't know the measurements for it.

[89T]

Seems like you're OK on your feed and return line.

[87roach]

Okay I'm glad the sizes are suitable. I still have to take off the return line and see if anything might be blocking the way at all.. I'm doubting anything is but it's definitely worth a check.

I have a few images, a bit poor in quality but they get the point across!

Here is that "turbo over-filling" leaking I was taking about Jerry:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image%205_zps5miwk6aj.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image%205_zps5miwk6aj.jpeg.html)

And here are some exhaust images... this whole system was a challenge by myself. Made with all mandrel bends and vibrant exhaust parts. I had to make a new bracket from the engine to the downpipe, I also had to add in new hangers to the body for the muffler. All in all I think it turned out great and I am proud of fabricating my first exhaust system.. let's just hope it sounds good haha.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image_zps3raxxion.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image_zps3raxxion.jpeg.html)

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image%201_zps2eaj4mv5.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image%201_zps2eaj4mv5.jpeg.html)

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image%202_zpsqz1vkmex.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image%202_zpsqz1vkmex.jpeg.html)

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image%203_zps2szmcvlv.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image%203_zps2szmcvlv.jpeg.html)

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image%204_zpsvzf1pgfq.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image%204_zpsvzf1pgfq.jpeg.html)

I still have some exhaust wrap that I will use up on the first part of the pipe, after that I just need to try and get some new rubber hangers and it can all go back into place!

[87roach]

Okay. Jerry I think I found the problem. In the picture below you can see that RTV was covering nearly half of the drain hole. I took that crap out of there and made sure everything else was clear(which it was) and got it all assembled again. I also got all the IC piping back on and now I'm just waiting for those exhaust rubbers so I can get the exhaust on and start it back up to make sure everything still works.. after that I can tidy the engine bay back up. I am glad I took the time to take that hose off and see if there was a problem.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image_zpsvwgaeef1.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image_zpsvwgaeef1.jpeg.html)

[Tdurr]

dang, that rtv was up in there! glad u fixed that one. Its always something simple man lol.
But ur manifold is custom made? who made it(i know its pretty far back there)
what are you doing for management? you have chrome or something? And the exhaust looks good man! it should be pretty quite and sexy sounding!

[89T]

Okay. Jerry I think I found the problem. In the picture below you can see that RTV was covering nearly half of the drain hole. I took that crap out of there and made sure everything else was clear(which it was) and got it all assembled again. I also got all the IC piping back on and now I'm just waiting for those exhaust rubbers so I can get the exhaust on and start it back up to make sure everything still works.. after that I can tidy the engine bay back up. I am glad I took the time to take that hose off and see if there was a problem.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image_zpsvwgaeef1.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image_zpsvwgaeef1.jpeg.html)
Eeh. See if t ha t works. That's a lot of oil. The seals might be out.

[Tdurr]

also, what side is ur exhaust?

[87roach]

Guess I'll keep a close watch on the turbo and see what happens.

As for management, I'll be getting demon/neptune rtp. I actually have the honda tuning kit from moates but I would rather simplify the whole situation and get more functionality for the extra money. I also have to find a used laptop at some point so I can use that for the car heh.

Oh and the exhaust is coming out the right side, same path as the stock pretty much.

[89T]

So, you should probably pull the turbine housing off and clean everything up. Check to see if it is loose first.

[Tdurr]

i ment size** not side lol. i cant tell if it 2.5 or 3 inches. but ur muffler choice is a great one. idk how its gonna sound with the resonator on it.

[87roach]

So, you should probably pull the turbine housing off and clean everything up. Check to see if it is loose first.

I wiggled it from the cold side and there isn't anything to be concerned about. I will have to take off the turbo then to clean thing's up then.. time is running out though so hopefully I can do this.


i ment size** not side lol. i cant tell if it 2.5 or 3 inches. but ur muffler choice is a great one. idk how its gonna sound with the resonator on it.

Ohh the size, hah. It's 2.5" all the way.

Well, I changed the oil and started it up again, there appears to be no exhaust leaks so that's good. There is a hell of a noise coming from the engine right by the water pump/alternator area and I have no idea what it is. I didn't touch anything around there... the only thing that I installed that might make some sort of noise(that wasn't there before) is the crank scraper. I think I may have to pull the pan off and see if there is any damage or sign of what is happening, it's weird though because I checked the clearances, and there's oil pressure. Perhaps I'll do a compression test and a recording of the oil pressure.. but I don't like running it because of that noise, bah! All this work and it runs but I don't want to run it because something is wrong.. guess that's how it goes. Doh. Maybe I can take a video of it so you guys know what I am talking about.

[Tdurr]

eewww thats not good. deff get a video so we can help you decide on if its bad or not. but imo if its bad it wouldve broke already sooo....

[87roach]

Yea I know man.. bah.

Well so far I checked the headstud torque and it's ok, the valve lash on the exhaust side were okay but I had to adjust the intake ones. However, there is no way the small amount of valve adjustment created that loud noise so it's something else. So I've decided to take off the oil pan and inspect.. guess we'll see what happens.

I did finish the interior though and I'm pretty happy with the turbo timer install, it looks to be working correctly so far too, I do have yet to test it with the engine running though but first things first.. fix the noise. I just hope it's not a bearing or something major because I won't be able to get that fixed for some time.. ack.

[Tdurr]

you should finish this then go to IA. Ill be there. Have a turbo 3g meet. Jerry can come too.

[87roach]

"Finish" is a big word, heh.

When and where is that event?

Well after a nightmare of pulling the oil pan off and half of the front end to even be able to do that I think I have everything reassembled. I removed the teflon from the crank scraper because that was clearly the only thing getting contact from the crank and something that would make noise.. I'm sure it would have broken in after a bit but whatever, the main part is still in there and it'll work. Everything else looked ok and there was maybe 2 small pieces of debris in the oil pan, so nothing major.. hopefully when I start it back up I'll be rid of that noise and go from there. The RTV has to dry so I've gotta wait till tomorrow before I attempt that. I also looked at the turbo but there isn't really much I can do without taking the whole thing apart and I am not going to do that so I will run it and see if there are any problems and go from there.

Now I just have to clean up the engine bay and get a demon/neptune on the way so I can actually drive it!

[89T]

Glad to see you making progress. Fire it up and see what happens.

[Tdurr]

ImportAlliance Summer Meet 2015 |ImportAlliance (http://importalliance.org/summer-meet-kentucky-speedway/)

Kentucky, july 18-19. I plan on being there.

But what are you running the car on ecu wise??

[86ccord]

whoa! since when did this thing get a turbo? have i been gone that long?

[89T]

No. Longer than long. Lol

[Tdurr]

Lol yea man, wayyy to long. Get another 3g tho.

[86ccord]

ive been thinking about it. but i just bought a BMW tho.

[87roach]

IA is about a 4000km road trip one way, that would be pretty awesome but currently very unlikely.

Hey 86, it's been a while!

Oh and I am currently running the obd1 pr4 I was using for my obd1 swap.

[87roach]

Okay here are today's findings.

I topped up the fluids and checked everything prior to start up to make sure everything was plugged in, etc. Looks good.

The car started up right away and sort of idled, I increased the idle screw until it idled around 1k after starting up. Okay. Get her going and after warming up a bit the car manages to keep it self going instead of me throttling it to do that. Everything is looking pretty good except the oil sandwich plate where my oil pressure and oil temp are plugged in appear to be leaking, I even used sealer so I think I will have to get a new plate at some point here. Anyway, I get the car up to operating temp and most thing's seem to be ok, except that engine noise has NOT gone away, although when I rev it it goes away. As the car is running I take off each injector terminal and the noise doesn't change, okay that's better news(no bottom end issues). The turbo appears to be okay.

Okay so then after it was up to temp I did a compression test, here are the results:

#1: 160 psi
#2: 150 psi
#3: 160 psi
#4: 164 psi,

I did each reading twice(reset reading after the first), while cranking the engine around 8-9 times for each reading.

These are a bit on the lower side but still operable enough for me to get thing's going I think.

After the compression test I took a video of it running and the terrible noise that you can hear clearly. While the car was running I didn't have the intake(right before the TB) pipe on. After the video I put the pipe back on and now the car will start only at around WOT and even then once it gets going it barely idles at like 300 and won't rev up at all, I also can't let go of the throttle or else it'll die.

I also took off the alternator belt and that didn't change the noise at all. So maybe it's the water pump or oil pump..? Or maybe the timing tensioner or something in there? It's also still throwing at code 4(crank angle sensor) so I have to check the ecu pin wires, the wires look ok at the distributor terminal. Otherwise I'll have to look at what else would throw this code.

Here are some pictures too:

The exhaust before install:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image_zps5d5ejdu3.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image_zps5d5ejdu3.jpeg.html)

The turbo timer face, ashtray, and bracket:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image%201_zpsxj4xg3x3.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image%201_zpsxj4xg3x3.jpeg.html)

I basically put the bracket in while holding the timer in place and then cut away whatever material was in the way so that it would go all the way down.

The finished tray:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image%202_zpssqufb3bk.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image%202_zpssqufb3bk.jpeg.html)

You don't even know it's there is what I like:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image%203_zps8b5k6lqo.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image%203_zps8b5k6lqo.jpeg.html)

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/image%204_zpsdfythkfu.jpeg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/image%204_zpsdfythkfu.jpeg.html)

[87roach]

Well, after searching it seems russiankid had a strange noise that appears similar to mine(unfortunately the video link is broken). His problem was the timing belt tensioner, is there a way to verify this without running the vehicle?

Still trying to get the video up.

Okay an edit to this.

I got the car started, I think it was probably just flooded because I was able to get it going and rev freely. While it was idling I took my stethoscope again and prodded everything in the area. Everything sounds normal except when I put it directly on the tensioner bolt, it makes the most noise definitely. So I think that's my problem.. I'd better get to Honda and order a new belt and tensioner. I hope that's the issue because everything else seems in good order!

:EDIT:

Video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yokh2_X3ehk

[87roach]

A bit of an update.. I only have a day or so to figure out this problem and then I have to move my shop and the car(a lot of work I haven't started on yet). So I went to honda and they won't have any tensioners until july, the spring is discontinued so I won't be getting that at all. I did however manage to get a conti kit from the local auto parts, luckily for me it's the only one and it was in stock as they didn't have any of the separate parts available. So, I'll be putting it in the car tomorrow and hoping for the best!

Check out the video above and let me know what you think.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

He's back!... Roach, the car looks great, noise is terrible lol. Glad to see an update on your car.

[Tdurr]

pffftttt bmw is gonna be expensive to fix :P

edit: my comp didnt update with all ur findings from today. Sucks it the the tensioner but at least you will be able to get one. I think ur engine code is just one from the ecu you are running. I wish you the best in getting it able to be derivable tomorrow. I know how much it sucks being this close to finishing the car and having the smallest stupid problems lol



also, can we get another full bay pic?? yours is so sexy!

[87roach]

Hash man! Great to see you're still around dude, if you're still in the area we should get together this year.

Ahhhhhhh okay so it looks as if I have found the problem!!!! I appeared to have a blonde moment somewhere along the lines.. okay so I pulled off the top timing cover to see if there was anything obvious going on and it looked pretty normal, I mean.. it's a belt and a wheel. However.. upon further inspection I noticed that I could wiggle the cam gear slightly, jesus. So I tightened it up and no more noise!!!! #$@@ yea! I also ran it for a bit and there hasn't been an ecu code yet so maybe that was the issue? the sensor sensing vibration and throwing a code? Seems logical now but I will have to see what happens upon driving the car.

I guess all that's next to do is take her for a test drive?? I would like to wait for the demon though but.. we'll see.

Oh and yes Tim I will take some engine bay pics again and a better video of it running. I don't know when I'll get those up but yes, good news regardless! You're also right about the smallest stupidest problems, but obviously things can get overlooked sometimes hah :slap:

[Tdurr]

Great news! Im happy for ya man! Idk how the pr4 ecu will work for a test drive but im sure its gonna be running rich. You have a wideband right?

[87roach]

Yes I have a wideband, and you're right, thus far it has been running rich but I haven't taken it for a test so I don't know how the road is yet. I don't know if it matters anyway because I'm on moving detail all this week.

[rushell]

i got m another 3g a 1989 sei sedan i took everything off my 89lxi and put it on my sei just had it painted black next is the obd1 swap

[Tdurr]

Got ya. When u get rtp lmk. Ill slide ya my tune if u want

[87roach]

Thanks Tim, I will probably grab that from you come the time. I think Jerry has a map or two too. I have a lot to learn about that stuff yet. I also have to acquire a cheapo laptop/netbook so I can use it for the car.

Rushell - That's great man, I'm happy you have a project, but it really has nothing to do with my thread. You should start one and post some pictures up in there.

As for my progress:

Well I had to get insurance today or else I can't park it at the new house. I only really need to park it until I get the demon in there and the ability to mess around with the tune. I think I've buttoned everything up and I might go for a test drive tomorrow, and by drive I mean like 50m up the hill and back haha. I still have to get some pictures up and a new video. I also can't find some of my signals so I've gotta go to pick n pull and grab some.

[Tdurr]

Did the test drive ever happen?

[89T]

Bump

[87roach]

Yo guys,

Okay, well, it was a crazy week(weekend included).

So like I said before I got everything buttoned up, I fixed the oil leak so that's awesome, I also had to modify the bumper quite a bit more so that it actually fit and attached normally. As far as the running status, cold start is just a lumpy mess, it runs really rough and rich and not good at all, but once it gets to operating temperature it runs A LOT better, idles at the honda 14.5 afr and everything else reads pretty well, creating normal voltage, oil pressure is normal from cold start to running when up to temp. I did go for a little drive up the hill once it was warm and it was fine. The trick is that I can't stall or I'm screwed since my battery is dead.. I have to save for a new one.

I was originally going to car dolly the hatch to the new house but after getting the dolly it was quite apparent that it wasn't going to work.. so I just said whatever and chose to drive it instead. After warming up the car I started to drive, after like 4-5 years now of sitting, crazy! The drive was about 20km and the first 15 are highway, the rest is in-town stop and go. I gotta say the car ran a lot better than I expected, I kept an eye on as many of the gauges as I could and it was looking pretty good, for being a stock map I was just happy to be driving and make it to the new house with no problems. It's definitely running rich and I drove very conservatively but there is definitely power there to be had, I just have to get a good tune to make it happen. There is one unfortunate thing and that is that the DP exhaust wrap got soaked with oil from the leak and it'll take forever to burn off but ah well, I would rather have that problem then a car that doesn't run haha.

All in all it was pretty awesome! There is of course the ecu to chip and tune but there is also a bit of a shake in the front end so I'll have to address that at some point too.. but I have to save before I can do anything like that.

Thanks again for the help to get it going, I'm pretty sure the whole problem came down to the distributor green wire. It should be a fun summer messing around with the car and getting it tuned finally! Woooo.

[89T]

I am glad everything worked out. How about some pics?

[Tdurr]

great news!!! im happy to hear this thing is finally on the ground moving. it has been wayyy to long. Get on saving and get this bad boy tuned!

[87roach]

I am glad everything worked out. How about some pics?

I hope to get some soon, I start a new job next week and the only car I currently have with insurance is the hatch and it's 1 hour away from where I live haha. Doh. I'll get them though!


great news!!! im happy to hear this thing is finally on the ground moving. it has been wayyy to long. Get on saving and get this bad boy tuned!

Thanks man, and yes, it's been waaay too long! Let the saving begin.

[87roach]

Well I am finally back from from being what feels like everywhere. New job starts tomorrow so I can enjoy a regular steady life for the rest of the year.

It is however a sad one because no more shop for me... all my stuff is packed up and I have no work space anymore :(

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/shop1_zps61puknri.jpeg~original

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/shop2_zpssiz6vesm.jpeg~original

I have however ordered a battery and map sensor, I think those will be here by the end of the month if I am lucky with the shipping. It would be great if I could start tuning in June!

[Tdurr]

damn. talk about cleaning the place out. that sucks but hey, you will have a better shop one day soon my man! Just keep pressing on and have fun.

[87roach]

Thanks man.

Today I found my new 4 bar map sensor in the mail box, woo.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/mapsensor01_zpsxxg3m25o.jpg~original

The new battery should be here this week and then the Demon is also on its way but is probably at least a few weeks out still. I am definitely looking forward to getting that installed!

[obd0driver]

👍👍👍👍

[Tdurr]

What brand map?

[87roach]

DTC Auto 4 bar map:

DTC Auto NEW 4 BAR MAP Sensor FOR Turbo Honda D15 D16 B16 B18 F20 H22 H23 Series | eBay (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DTC-Auto-New-4-Bar-Map-Sensor-for-Turbo-Honda-D15-D16-B16-B18-F20-H22-H23-Series-/321753269220?)

This costed enough, I can't afford $100++ on a fancy one. I am sure this one will do the job though.

[Tdurr]

Ehh i had a no-name 3bar when i was n/a that failed on me. Shit sucked because it didnt fail 100% just enough to make the car run like shit. I opted fpr the onmi power 4bar. Its cheap enough at 94 shipped to not kill ya. But i would deff upgrade to at least one of those.

[87roach]

Yea perhaps, but this is what I have to work with for now. If I have to I'll upgrade to something better when the time comes.

I also live in Canada so it's not $94 shipped for me and our dollar is currently at $0.82, the omni 4 bar is $129.99 + plus shipping($20 est.) so that means if the sensor comes to $150USD shipped, I will be paying $183. Soo yea.. no thanks, I am not spending almost two bills on a map sensor.

Oh yea, I also got my new battery in today, it looks good and is ready to go. Hopefully I will be able to keep this one alive for a long time(unlike the previous one)!

[Tdurr]

ohh well damn. That sucks, exchange rates ftl?

what kinda of battery did you get?

[87roach]

Yea exchange rates for the lose. I think if I keep my eyes open though I could probably get something closer to $100, at least I hope.

The battery is an Odyssey PC680.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/bat01_zpsncuc13va.jpg~original

[obd0driver]

I ran that battery and hated it. It dies fast. Be sure to get a battert tender for it to keep it at 110% when you not use the car. These are deep cycle batterys and need to be "over charged" to full charge the battery. I did upgrade to bigger one

[87roach]

Care to elaborate? Why would your battery die fast? Power problems? Poor alternator?

[Tdurr]

Besure to do the uhh 2amp(i think) charge before installing it. My battery didn't do to hot in the cold weather but works fine. Just try not to kill it too often.

[87roach]

I was just curious about why he had problems with the battery.

I recall you having a power draw from your seat belts Tim? I'm sure that wouldn't help with keeping a smaller battery alive either, and what is cold for your area? I'm just curious because I think your battery is similar to mine?

Ohh I also think I got something in the mail today.. I have to go check today.

[Tdurr]

Yea I Did have a power draw with the seatbelts(im surprised you remembered) but during the winter here there were a few days when the batt was just dead. One time i did try and hit it like 7 times and only got a few slow turns. Then on the 8th time it started up like it wasnt struggling before. cold here is like 0-10*F. so if ur in Canada you might have some serious struggles. But i hope its not the case for you man!

[obd0driver]

^I had a power draw somewhere also. The battery it's self has little to no auxiliary power so when playing music no sub with the car off it will only last 5 minutes or just sitting when tunning the battery would die. The best thing to do it just get a battery tender and hook it up when you not using the car. Just like you would for a atv or dirt bike.

[gp02a0083]

had this argument in one of lostforawhile's threads. The Pc680 only has a 170 CCa rating (540 hot) with a 24 min reserve, so any drains as you guys have encountered would kill this battery in no time as you guys found out. its nice it still is a Pb type battery and the discharge curve wouldn't have the cliff that lithium types have.

all depends on the usage, for a DD i'd suggest a normal battery. For my "toy" car i use the optima batteries being i can get them for less than $150 new

[obd0driver]

optima batteries are just as bad ask Messy Honda. He just had a similar situation with his yellow top. A battery tender will fix this either way

[87roach]

Good points fellas, I would have to agree that it isn't the ideal daily battery but I don't have a sub or crazy stereo and I will be also keeping an eye out for any power draws just in case.. I don't want to waste the bills I spent. I do agree with the battery tender but unfortunately in my current situation there is no external power anywhere on my apartment build so it's not even an option. The only thing I can do is to bring the battery into my place and keep it on the trickle, I think this would only be worthwhile doing on extended trips out of town. I will have to see what happens over the next few months though as I will hopefully be driving quite a bit and messing around in the car! Actually when I was looking at the old PC680 and the new one I just got I noticed that the new one was quite a bit of a step down from the previous, the new one with 170CCA and the old one with 220CCA for instance, also the voltages were different when running the car too, I believe the old one was around 14.6v(give or take) and now the new one is 14.0v'ish, the car still started fine on the new one but I wanted to note the differences(I'd have to look again for every difference though).

ANYWAY! ONTO THE GOODS: :D:D:D:D:D:D:D

This is the Demon 2!!

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/demon01_zpsbbija93l.jpg~original
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/demon02_zpstdodpozx.jpg~original
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/demon03_zpssh3ebup4.jpg~original

So I was able to return my Honda Tuning Kit(that I purchased probably 3 years ago) to Moates and use the credit towards the Demon/Neptune RTP Combo, it was well worth it and simplified everything. I just have to install it now which I will be trying to tackle this evening! I'll take some pictures as I go along too, I'm stoked!

[89T]

Xenocron has exelent tutorials on the installation. I haven't forgotten about you. I just haven't had the time.

[87roach]

Thanks Jerry, and no problem. I will be messing around this weekend on neptune so if you could get me anything before/on saturday that would be very helpful!

My camera battery died but I just finished the install, I used the guide on hamotorsports as it was very thorough with images. I can't do much else since I can't go outside and plug it in the car until the weekend but I'll get those pics up soon!

[Tdurr]

legit!! hopefully you can get to tuning the car here soon! what ecu did you put this chip in again?

[87roach]

Thanks Tim!

I want to try to get some tuning in on the weekend, and since the hatch is currently not where I live and 1 hour away(2hr round trip), I will only be able to mess around on the weekends for a bit until I sell my daily(neon) and free up a parking spot.

The ECU I chipped is an Integra PR4 OBD1.

The ECU of course:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/demon04_zpszyb6xttj.jpg~original

All the resistors and hardware components installed(sorry no before picture):
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/demon05_zpsc1oifkqi.jpg~original

The kitchen workstation!
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/demon06_zps3sy1u3zb.jpg~original

The Demon snapped into place!
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/demon07_zpseccxxflp.jpg~original

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/demon08_zpsyxhqsyo9.jpg~original

I have to cut two holes into the case so I can access the USB easy, and also so I can connect my wideband(to the green). I don't have those tools right now so it will have to wait till the weekend. The install went well, I followed the directions and I didn't actually have any de-soldering braid or the pro sucker device but I did have the bulb and it worked very well when I heated the front of the board and used the sucker from the back. After a bunch of that and soldering the rest into place it was just a matter of plugging in the demon to the board and that's it.

Well I think I'm ready to go.. I bought a netbook so I could have something portable for tuning, plus the map sensor, plus the battery, plus the demon.. needless to say I am a bit in the red. However, it's going to be worth it as I will finally be able to drive the 3geez again! I'll have to get some pics and videos going on soon, I still have to get those engine bay ones.

Any tips on tuning are welcome, of course. I have a lot to learn so any help is welcomed.

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Hash man! Great to see you're still around dude, if you're still in the area we should get together this year.


For sure man, I do plan to make my way out to BC at least once or twice this summer so we will have to make that happen. I've been in school the past couple of years so not much has been done on the Accord but she's still on the road.

Send me a PM with your number or email or something so I can get in touch when coming out that way. Cheers.

[gp02a0083]

optima batteries are just as bad ask Messy Honda. He just had a similar situation with his yellow top. A battery tender will fix this either way

I never had a problem with spiral AGM's. The last one i had for just over 10 years in my cutty even when it was stored outside. All i do is disconnect the battery since the car is not driven every week. Last one i bought back in 2013 , and still works fine today even tho I do not keep it on a battery tender. A lot of people kill those batteries when they recharge them with a normal re-charger without connecting a lead acid battery in parallel

Roach, doesn't really surprise me the voltages you observed were different, size/energy density and stuff like that. I would think with those odyssey batteries with the multi shim plate design there might be a good chance that shorting of the plates could happen, but they might have thought of that in the design. im not sure.

Looks like the electrical component install was clean

[87roach]

For sure man, I do plan to make my way out to BC at least once or twice this summer so we will have to make that happen. I've been in school the past couple of years so not much has been done on the Accord but she's still on the road.

Send me a PM with your number or email or something so I can get in touch when coming out that way. Cheers.

Right on man, I'm down for a meet! I'll pm you my contact info.


I never had a problem with spiral AGM's. The last one i had for just over 10 years in my cutty even when it was stored outside. All i do is disconnect the battery since the car is not driven every week. Last one i bought back in 2013 , and still works fine today even tho I do not keep it on a battery tender. A lot of people kill those batteries when they recharge them with a normal re-charger without connecting a lead acid battery in parallel

Roach, doesn't really surprise me the voltages you observed were different, size/energy density and stuff like that. I would think with those odyssey batteries with the multi shim plate design there might be a good chance that shorting of the plates could happen, but they might have thought of that in the design. im not sure.

Looks like the electrical component install was clean

Thanks man, I'll have to take a video showing it because I don't think the pictures turned out very well. As for the battery, you make a good point about unplugging it when not in use. I will probably be doing this as a "just in case" thing. Actually another idea, do you think a big kill switch would be a better option instead of disconnecting the terminal every time?

[Tdurr]

Kill switch woul be nice. Mounting them is a pain imo.

[gp02a0083]

Right on man, I'm down for a meet! I'll pm you my contact info.

Thanks man, I'll have to take a video showing it because I don't think the pictures turned out very well. As for the battery, you make a good point about unplugging it when not in use. I will probably be doing this as a "just in case" thing. Actually another idea, do you think a big kill switch would be a better option instead of disconnecting the terminal every time?

taking some snapshots with a camera in macro mode should work out alright. My only other suggestion / tip when dealing with these old electronics is to get some flux remover / 90%-100% isopropyl alcohol and clean up flux residue. In addition if you wanted to spend the time, examine some of the resistors and the solder ringlets. I can be fairly sure that a good majority of those solder joints could be cracked, its the same issue with our dash clocks.

hog out a spot for that usb B connector and maybe make a small breakout chord / mount for that micro usb. Not sure what is required or if you have to use th but it sure would make life easy if you needed access to them.

I got one of those quick disconnect parts for now after i had messed up the negative side terminal on my cutlass. any auto store sell them or swap meets. Otherwise stick to the kills witch idea and get a decent one and a good hiding spot. Either way with the bastard electrical gremlins we can have on these cars, just best to disconnect the battery when not using it.

[Rendon LX-i]

whoa where have i been? Looks like you came back an with some progress.

With the pc680 I have installed its working great for me . Flaws its not meant for a system lol i can see a super stress on amperage when its loaded to small of a battery. other then that its great i suggest keeping a battery tender on it when parked for a long period of time. other then that its great working battery. I have it mounted on the side of the body inside the engine bay.

Glad to see some progress man. Great work.

http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww290/Rendonlxi/045.jpg (http://s728.photobucket.com/user/Rendonlxi/media/045.jpg.html)
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww290/Rendonlxi/252.jpg (http://s728.photobucket.com/user/Rendonlxi/media/252.jpg.html)
http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww290/Rendonlxi/254.jpg (http://s728.photobucket.com/user/Rendonlxi/media/254.jpg.html)

[87roach]

Hey Josh, long time!

Glad to hear you've had a good experience with the battery. So far for mine I have just been disconnecting it when I am done, and it there have been no issues(so I think I'll keep doing that as it appears to work!).

Okay well, I went down and tinkered on the hatch for the weekend. Although after swapping out the map sensor, wiring in the wideband to the ecu and some other thing's that kept popping up I finally managed to get neptune plugged in and working! I made various basemaps and watched the results and just observed what was going on and watching the sensors, etc. Once I did that I figured I'd better do some more research.. since just diving in isn't really the best idea for me since I am new to this. So after much reading and finding out what numbers I should be shooting for I went back at it. Although this time I wanted to make sure the timing was good and matched what I had in neptune, this took me a while to get sorted out. I did manage to finally get the timing set with the help of the cam gear adjustment because the amount on the distributor was just out of reach. Okay so once I did that I started the car and proceeded to try and get the idle from crazy rich(around 10) to 14.7. This took me a while because I was just slowly going and watching the changes and learning as I went. Basically the whole fuel table is rich and I had to lean it up to get the idle where I wanted it. I also went for a drive after that and took a data log so I could see what was happening(damn neptune is cool!), it's very cool so see what's going on with the engine as I'm driving around and learning what happens when and such. Anyway, I am still learning but so far so good, still running rich and I really need someone else to drive around while I make adjustments because doing it by myself is quite challenging! I also think my bov spring is set too lightly because it's seems to be letting out boost while building, so I'll have to adjust that.

[Tdurr]

What bov do you have?

& great news man! Glad to hear that you are working on this thing still. I onow the struggle with trying to datalog/adjust when driving. A 2nd person is truly helpful. Did any of those maps work for you or did you start with a p75 then go from there??

[87roach]

The bov is a Greddy RS, it's just not the easiest to adjust because of where I put it, but once I tighten it up it should be fine(with some trial and error driving of course).

Thanks man, yea it's very hard doing it solo haha and trying to learn it all at the same time too but it's still very cool. I did use your maps and I also tried the p75 as a base too, I have iterations of both but I just recall everything mainly being way too rich so I think I just started with a p75 and went from there. Although I am interested in taking your boosted one, reducing it a bit and seeing what happens... now that I know enough to do that! haha

Man! Now that I've seen Josh's hood strut how to I want to get that! So cool.

[Tdurr]

Sweet. The hood mod is on my list also. Keep up the progress and updates!

[87roach]

Will do man.

Yea the hood mod is nice! I think I'll take a look at the JY to see if there is a legend there but even if not, the online prices seem to be reasonable.

Unfortunately no progress this weekend, I do hope to get down next weekend for some driving and tuning though.. hopefully I can sell my daily soon too to get a bit more cash in my pocket(or maybe use the money for the dyno... that would be nice but unlikely right now).

[Tdurr]

what is your daily now?

[87roach]

7013

[Tdurr]

Sexy.

[87roach]

You haven't seen her good side!

So on Sunday I managed to get a good friend of mine to drive the hatch around for an hour or so while I watched and did changes on the computer as we went. Man, what a huge difference and it's so much safer doing this! We did mostly light driving around town and a few 3rd gear pulls to see how it went, all in all it went pretty well. There is definitely a lot more work to do but I am learning more as time goes on and I think I'll get there, I can always take it to the dyno at some point but at $150 an hour I really can't afford it. Plus I have to buy a few front end bushings and replace those very soon.

Damn I still gotta get some pictures up. Right now the hatch is getting a nice sap paint job from being parked by a lovely big tree, ugh. Oh well, maybe she'll shine again haha.

[Tdurr]

Yes! Great to hear you are getting it to run better. We are going to need some videos and photos asap!

[89T]

Update

[Tdurr]

what he said ^^^

[87roach]

Not much to update on guys, I haven't been able to get out to the hatch. I am still trying to get rid of my neon, so I can insure my mini, so that I can enjoy it for a few months this year... and to also get to the hatch. Once the neon sells I'll be able to get some control arm bushings and redo those and get some more tuning under way, I hope to do this not this weekend but the next, and get some pics too!

[87roach]

Okay well, I did do some work on the hatch. I managed to get both of the front upper control arm bushings changed out(new moog). After taking one apart I noticed that it didn't look quite right and apparently I assembled it wrong when I did them last, there however was nothing broken or worn or looked out of sorts.. Anyway, I assembled them correctly this time with the new bushings and rubber safe lubricant, got everything back together and went for a test drive.. well the steering wheel still shakes upon braking and I'm not sure what it is. I tightened everything up, amd just about everything is pretty recent or new and there is no appreciable wear when I wiggle the tires around in the air.

It only shakes when you apply the brakes, but if you press the brakes hard enough it smooths out and goes away. Any ideas?

I'm going to head out there Sunday to do some tuning again and see if I can figure out the cause of the shake.

[89T]

Sounds like roters need turned or replaced.

[MessyHonda]

when was the last time you changed out your radius rod bushings on the front crossmember?

[87roach]

Sounds like roters need turned or replaced.

Yea I was thinking about this too, I'd better save for that next I suppose.


when was the last time you changed out your radius rod bushings on the front crossmember?

Actually I have never done this yet, I would like to replace these as well.

It's always something!

[87roach]

Okay, well... I figured I bite the bullet. I just ordered some of the Moog radius rod bushings, hopefully they will be here this month, along with the front rotors and pads I also just ordered. I am quite certain the wobble is the rotors as was suggested, I do have some diagnostics to do to confirm it in the mean time.

Also, my good buddy and myself drove the hatch for around 4-5 hours yesterday while I adjusted the numbers in Neptune... it's certainly getting better. We did all sorts of driving from stop and go in town, some highway driving for consistent speeds, and then some pulls from a stop. The trick I am finding is that there is just not enough road when I need it! I want all the data all day long!!!!

I am currently finding that the hardest thing to tune/adjust is the lower speed area(1000rpm to 3000rpm before positive manifold pressure), stop and go type driving. One second you're lean then next your too rich and so on, it definitely will take more time to get there. A whole lot of massaging of the numbers really, I wish I could afford a dyno tune but I just don't know if I can afford it this year.. once I get the brake stuff on I have to get an alignment and the total of the bushings, rotors and pads and alignment will probably run around $400, which is equal to only 2 hours on the dyno. I have yet to actually go to the shop and see how it is and what software's they are actually familiar with too.

Otherwise, I have been keeping an eye on everything and it's looking pretty good. No leaks from anything(yet) and no signs or sounds of obvious problems. Unfortunately there is a pin-hole leak in my valve cover where the fan side vent hose comes out, maybe it's plugable with some JB, but currently not a concern.

I think the parts will take a few weeks to get here, less if I am lucky and then I will take some pictures to post.

[Tdurr]

Do you have open loop enabled? If so disable it. It will make it easier to tune when ur in vac since it wont be switching "maps"

[87roach]

Under Parameters>Main Settings>Closed Loop> "Closed Loop Enabled" is UN-checked.

Ohhh okay so after reading: Open Loop vs. Closed Loop (http://www.enginebasics.com/EFI%20Tuning/Closed%20Loop%20o2.html) much sense has been made and now I see why my numbers were all over the place. I haven't messed with these settings yet but it certainly looks like another area to fine tune.

"For reference, most OEM cars are tuned to run closed loop o2 on partial throttle driving to get the best gas mileage, and then run open loop on wide open throttle (WOT) to be sure the motor runs the safest it can, and that the factory fuel map is not modified in any way. Closed loop is when the ECU does refer to the o2 sensor for feedback. Using the o2 sensor the ECU will modify its fuel table based on the readings the o2 sensor is seeing"

Thanks Tim, this should make thing's quite a bit easier to get to my target a/f ratios! Awesome!

It looks like my bushings have shipped out and will be here around the 24th if all goes well, not quite sure about the brakes yet but since they are in Canada already it shouldn't take much longer.

[Tdurr]

no problem. hope you can get it running like a champ soon!

[87roach]

A bit of an update:

I received the bushings and brakes on this past Friday and proceeded to install them on Sunday.

I only did the front brakes because it was raining on and off and time was running out. So I moved the car, jacked it up, took off the wheels, calipers, removed the old rotors and pads(pretty much 98% unused unfortunately), I cleaned all the mating surfaces to make sure nothing was causing issues, and installed the new rotors and brake pads for both sides.

I was curious as to what side or even if it was both that had a wobble in it so when the car was jacked up I started it and put it into gear to watch the rotors closely as they spun. It wasn't terribly obvious but you could tell there was movement. I also did the same thing with the rotors off and just the hubs spinning and much to my dismay I found a wobble in the drivers side hub and no movement in the passenger.. while it's not a lot, pretty much any run-out there I think would cause issues. So.. all I could do was assemble everything back together(I did the rotation test again with the new brakes on the drivers side and you could see the caliper very slightly moving in and out) and go for a drive to see if it stayed the exact same or there was change.

Well, I went for a test drive and it actually braked nice and smooth and straight! So that was a pleasant surprise but I am still worried that the hub will create a wobble but I don't know. So for now it appears to be ok, I did some light braking and worked up to some harder braking test and everything went well. I certainly can't afford a new hub and the labor associated with it so that's pretty much how it'll be for a while, but if it develops a problem I think that hub is the culprit(even though it has very low km's on it, it must have been from installation or something.

After that I did a bit of tuning but not much as time ran out. I am really tempted to take it to get dyno tuned as I just want to drive around without being worried but I am not sure how to afford that yet!

Anyway, the next work is to change out those radius rod bushings and get an alignment done. One day I'll take pictures again! I also have to make a new sig, it's very dated now haha.

[Tdurr]

yeaaa that sig is old :p

but sucks about the hub. at least you didnt get a new Koyo presseed in to find it wobbly -_- but a tune shoudnt be too crazy. say 3-500 depending on the shops rates. normally takes 3 hrs from what ive seen.

[87roach]

Well maybe it was wobbly from the start.. I am not sure though.

There are three dyno shops in my area, all start at $150 an hour. One specializes in mazda's and apparently are pretty snobby(just rumors), another that is pretty dated, and the last one is a bunch of drifters.. so I am thinking my option lies with the last one.

3 hours doesn't seem like a lot of time but maybe that's a good thing, still that's 150x3 + tax = $504. So if it took 3 hours I would probably pay for that.. I mean the logic is, is that I've already put thousands into the car so I should get it proper tuned.. hmm. I know the dyno isn't the ultimate answer but it would certainly give me a great point to go from. I will have to visit the shop at some point to see what the think and what they actually normally work on. I also still have to get some decent wheels and tires at some point and that's going to be an easy 1k. Ahhh money where art thou.

[MessyHonda]

3 hours of tuning- are they going to build you a custom map?

My tuner is a flat rate fee.

[87roach]

Tim said 3 hours of tuning is an estimated average that he has seen, I didn't mean to say that it will take that amount to tune my hatch(as I don't know yet).

They would have to build me a custom map.. that's the whole point I would be going. I don't quite understand your question?

[89T]

Should only take about an hour on the dyno.

[89T]

You don't need a full brand new map. Take what you got now. All he will do is download a base map and tune from there.

[obd0driver]

Yeah that's high.

[MessyHonda]

the only time a tune takes that long is for a custom set up. you can upload any honda rom into a obd1 computer and just tune from that. when i first got my car tuned the tuner ran it 5-6 times on the dyno and was able to get me tuned.

[87roach]

1 hour would be sweet, that's affordable and worth it! I will let you know what I find out about the shop once I get in touch with them.

Messy, I think you're talking more about an NA build, although it's good he managed to get you tuned from just just a few runs. Since I am no longer NA I am just assuming it will take more time.

[87roach]

Okay well, I fortunately got out of work early today and took the chance to go to that dyno shop. I asked a bunch of questions and told them about my build a bit and basically they can do tunes on rb's and 2jz's and some other stuff but when it comes to honda's they bring in a guy from a shop down south(a few hours). Fortunately there is an eg there with a kswap waiting for a tune so I am going to get my hatch done when he comes up to do that beast.

Unfortunately/forunately there is a flat rate for turbo tunes at $550.. so that's pretty much my best bet for the safest tune. I think I'll probably do it even though it is quite a bit, and after doing some research this guy looks like he knows what he is doing so I'll hope for the best. I think I'll get a call in a few weeks time(maybe) as there isn't a set date yet.

[MessyHonda]

ah yes your are right. I forgot that you were turboed now. do you know when the tuner is going to be in town?

[87roach]

It sounds like the guy comes to town when there are a few honda's lined up to do, and it generally happens at the end of the week.. ideally for me it would be on a saturday because my work isn't very forgiving for taking a random day off with short notice.

So we'll see what happens! I'll keep in touch with them to get a better idea.

[Innsjioa]

To get them out they are screwed out. They are very hard to push in since the mechanism inside spins and pushes the piston out vice versa. Anyways nice workshop, and nice project car!








samsung s6 edge schutzfolie (http://www.hulle6.com/category-samsung-galaxy-s6-edge-zubehoer-188.html)

[87roach]

Nothing much to update, I have been in contact with the shop but we are still waiting for the tuner to come to town.. when he does they'll let me know so I can come in.

[87roach]

Okay well I got the call to come in yesterday afternoon so I proceeded to go on down.

I took off the front bumper cover to make it easier to strap down and I think it probably helped the fans do a better job.. anyway, we started by setting things up since he wanted to use his computer and after a bunch of that and diagnostics the car was finally started.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/dyno_sept2015_01_zpscybk6jck.jpg~original

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/dyno_sept2015_02_zpsrdq6tohh.jpg~original

He worked on the low range area to start and worked the way up the graph, there was a few issues with boost cut kicking in and I believe it was because the map sensor scalar was off creating an incorrect reading(ie. 2lbs boost at idle, UH WRONG). Anyway once that was sorted we started to do some power pulls... it was going good but we had to stop the pull at 4000rpm because it kept boosting and the wastegate was not opening. Why? I don't know.. we tested the wg with some air and it was moving but possibly not enough or maybe it was stuck or just old and cranky. Either way(as you'll see in the charts) it kept overboosting, I think 4k rpm was at like 14psi, 4500 rpm was 16psi, etc etc. so we increased the boost cut to 20psi and still didn't get through the full rpm range. Finally the wastegate opened on a power run where he tried to back off the throttle and manually tried to keep boost to around 14psi(you'll notice the steep drop offs).. So this was very curious as it hadn't really opened enough to be noticed. After that the wastegate opened on the next run but not at the 10psi it appears to be rated for(stock).. anyway there wasn't much to be said after that, I told him to tune it for the situation since there is no way I can change anything mechanically this year and I won't be able to fab up an external wg and stuff. So yea, finally got it on the rollers and made some numbers but it's a mystery what the final figures are but it's torquey for sure and comes on very quick. I am going to do a bit of spirited driving and see what appears to be normal behaviors of the car and maybe the wg will sort itself or I will have to get another actuator at some point.

Final numbers for this incomplete session appear to be 188hp and 196tq. It should be noted that that torque number was seen at 4250 rpm and the hp at 5250 rpm after "de-throttle". I'm sure there is more there but that remains a mystery until some stuff gets sorted. Otherwise he said the engine sounds good and I did a solid DIY job :D

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/dyno_sept2015_03_zpsuzzdrjfu.jpg~original

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/dyno_sept2015_04_zpshsfeutbm.jpg~original

I do have to sort out the suspension height and get an alignment after I do that and install those bushings I got. Hopefully the turbo lasts a bit because I'm just not in a situation to do any fabrication work or anything like that right now. I am just happy to finally be driving around with a tune, it's been like what, 5 years now? Crazy!

[89T]

That's pretty good. Do have a boost controller? Where do you have the wastegate connected to?

[87roach]

Well originally the wastegate was connected to my hallman manual boost controller(not a bleed type), when it's all the way off it just acts like the stock wg but when you turn it up you can adjust it to higher pressures. So this has always been all the way off as I just wanted possible adjustment down the road, anyway, at the dyno we just disconnected it and shoved the wg to the nipple on the cold side for direct vacuum.

I did just try to move the wg actuator arm and I can move it by hand, and I can't feel any friction or anything that might hang it up.. so maybe it was just sticky. I have to get down to my storage place in order to get access to my compressor in order to dial in what pressure(s) that it's moving in and out at, this will help me determine if it's working correctly or not.

I also still want to get out and do some driving but I don't think I can do anything until the weekend. I'll let you know my findings... I don't want to over-boost until bang, that's for sure! I should also get some pictures to show you the setup too.

[Tdurr]

congrats on getting a tune! i kno how sad it is to finally have it on the dyno and it not working out right but at least u can drive it around town now!! we need vids and more pics bruhhhh

[87roach]

Thanks man! I've done a little bit of driving since then and I am pretty sure the wastegate is back to function, of course I am only driving around town and not going nuts or anything but it's not showing those crazy boost numbers like before so that's good. I definitely have some other thing's to sort but driving it again feels good!

I hope to sort out a few issues on this coming weekend if all goes well. Along with some pics!

[87roach]

Small Update:

So I did some work on the car, I purchased a gasket set for the turbo but unfortunately the drain gasket I wanted to replace is actually an exhaust gasket for some reason so I think I'll just take off the old one and put some rtv on it carefully to stop the leak.. otherwise I did some psi testing on the wastegate which does work but the challenge is figuring out exactly where. The compressor gauge goes from nearly 0 to 20 as the first reading so it's sort of a guess when using anything in between those readings. The wg just starts to move at around 5 psi and is fully open at around 18-20 psi, I'm not sure what actuator is on there because the stock one is rated for 9.5-10 psi! Ah well, you have to get pretty high in the rpm range and wot to really get past 10+ psi, which I don't drive at on a regular basis(afr's are fine though).

I am also not sure if my gauges have the best connection because some of them seem a touch "slow" but then the egt is a pretty consistent reading so I'm not sure, the oil pressure gauge sort of went wacky and reads full most of the time.. so something went wrong there with the sender or wires or something so I will have to check that out at some time. Basically I'm going to double check connections and ground quality and see if that helps anything!

[Tdurr]

what do you mean exactly on your oil pressure gauge? I'm getting weird readings on my electric oil pressure gauge. I think it may just be my oil is overheating(i plan on getting an oil cooler). I did have a wire come loose once and threw some weird readings so deff recheck them.
What kind of WG do you have again? maybe see about picking up another adjustable aftermarket wg(even a cxracing one. they are cheap and work for low numbers)

[87roach]

I'd have to take a video of the oil gauge behavior but basically, on cold start the needle maxes out. After it's warm it appears to show close to normal pressures but ONLY if it's around 10-35ish psi but as soon as you rev up a little bit it maxes right back out. It never did this before so yea, some checking is needed.

Do you have an oil temp gauge? I am curious to know what some normal readings would be on a turbo application, I am also curious to know what some EGT numbers would be as I really have no prior knowledge of what they should be ranging in for these cars.. I suppose I should search a bit and see if anyone has posted up their readings.

Unfortunately I have an internal wastegate so any external ones are currently not an option. As far as I know I was told it was the stock WG, but it could be a WG from a different turbo. Perhaps I should look at finding a lower psi actuator.. hm.

[Tdurr]

you can get aftermarket wg for internal ones. they usually have a 8-12psi raiting but are built with better parts and have an adjustable arm. look into them man.

and i have no oil temp gauge. i need one tho. I dont care for egt. im not beating the car for big numbers so its not needed for me haha. I am curious as to what they are currently.

[87roach]

Oh interesting, I found that Turbosmart has some universal ones upon a quick look. Do you know of any other companies off hand that make them?

Will you be getting an oil temp gauge before your cooler? So you know what sort of difference it makes before and after? I might be interested in getting one too, down the road.

[Tdurr]

https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/view.phtml?f_cat=Wastegate+Actuator

and idk if im going to do the oil temp gauge first or not

[87roach]

Thanks man! So it's probably around $100 or so for that option, I will keep that in mind for sure.

[Tdurr]

not a problem. I hope to hear good news from you soon!

[Hazwan]

Need PICS!

[87roach]

Pics huh? Well let me know when you fly up and happen to be in the neighborhood ;)

I haven't looked into the gauge problem yet but I have driven a bit more and thing's seem to be functioning normally.. still need an alignment I can't afford and to fix that turbo drain gasket. Maybe I can get that done in the next weekend or so before it really gets colder in the day.

[Rendon LX-i]

MAN o man looking good. Great numbers. Been awhile since I been on but glad I checked. Looks amazing.

So where the ripper vids brotha?

[87roach]

Thanks Josh, it's been a while!

Oh so not too much new from me. I have been driving the hatch this winter(about 3000km now since up and running) and there have been no problems, still the valve cover gasket and turbo drain gasket to replace to get rid of those leaks but otherwise it runs well. I actually purchased some speakers(Kenwood) the other week and had to do a bit of chopping to the front baskets to get them to fit and drill new holes in the rear mounts as well. But damn! After having no music for like 6 years or whatever it's amazing haha. So I am happy with that for sure.

Winter pic:
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/roach_cato/hatch_winter2015_zpsvf6t10z6.jpg~original (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/roach_cato/media/hatch_winter2015_zpsvf6t10z6.jpg.html)

The snow is gone now though and spring seems to be on the way! Hopefully I can do an oil change and get those leaks fixed in the next month or so. I still have to look into what's making the oil gauge wacky too. It would be nice to get that new wastegate Tim linked this year too, we'll see what happens! I should probably still take some videos and pictures :lol:

[Hash_man_Se_i]

This is awesome man! I`m glad to see your hatch up and running and back on the road. I haven`t visited the forum in ages it seems, should come by more often haha.
Have you guys had much snow this winter? Everyone is bringing their summer toys out lately as we have basically no snow left on the ground.

[Tdurr]

yes! glad there was one turbo accord still running around once mine went down. glad you(and the car) are doing good. Hopefully I can get mine back on the road and we can have the only 2 daily turbo 3rd gens for a while haha.

[87roach]

Whoa Hash! Hey.

Yea we have had quite a bit of snow this year, but now spring is in full swing, finally!

The hatch is currently uninsured since I am in-between jobs but I hope to insure it in the next few weeks and get those gaskets and oil change sorted out.. I should also probably go through and re-tighten some nuts and bolts too. I'll have to actually take some pics when I go to do that this time!

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Whoa Hash! Hey.

Yea we have had quite a bit of snow this year, but now spring is in full swing, finally!

The hatch is currently uninsured since I am in-between jobs but I hope to insure it in the next few weeks and get those gaskets and oil change sorted out.. I should also probably go through and re-tighten some nuts and bolts too. I'll have to actually take some pics when I go to do that this time!

Yeah, my car is just sitting with storage insurance right now too until I'm sure winter is done.
Good luck with the job thing, it's pretty rough out in Alberta for that right now.

I plan on at least one road trip out to Vancouver area this spring/summer, so I will make sure to get in touch and we can finally meet up when I am driving through.

[Ryon Toth]

This has got to be the best read of all time! So much patience, so many details, such clean professional workas well as dedication!. Its had me on the edge of my seat since page 1. So glad ya got her on the road bro! Thanks for sharing all the high quality pics! Damn, such an inspiration......I WANT A EFFIN TURBO NOW

[Tdurr]

updates please!

[87roach]

Hey guys, long time!

I'm still driving the hatch, it has been very faithful to me over the years! It's certainly showing it's age on the body and I don't know how long it'll last but it's running well and I still enjoy driving it.

I just wanted to post and get a last bump in here before all the pictures come down. Like everyone already probably knows or has experienced, the hosting site isn't being friendly about 3rd party. I will not be paying $400 a year so that the pictures can remain up. It's just not financially smart, I don't make that much money. I guess I can leave a link if anyone ever wants to browse the albums but that's about all I can do. It's really a bummer but nothing I can do unfortunately, fack..

I was going to upload some new pics.. but what the heck is the point? Just imagine some more rust creeping in and some wear and tear in the engine bay haha.

I think if I were to keep the hatch for the long term it would be best to get a rust free body and swap over everything I wanted to keep.. maybe that'll happen but who knows(I would like it to!)

[Shane86]

Hey guys, long time!

I'm still driving the hatch, it has been very faithful to me over the years! It's certainly showing it's age on the body and I don't know how long it'll last but it's running well and I still enjoy driving it.

I just wanted to post and get a last bump in here before all the pictures come down. Like everyone already probably knows or has experienced, the hosting site isn't being friendly about 3rd party. I will not be paying $400 a year so that the pictures can remain up. It's just not financially smart, I don't make that much money. I guess I can leave a link if anyone ever wants to browse the albums but that's about all I can do. It's really a bummer but nothing I can do unfortunately, fack..

I was going to upload some new pics.. but what the heck is the point? Just imagine some more rust creeping in and some wear and tear in the engine bay haha.

I think if I were to keep the hatch for the long term it would be best to get a rust free body and swap over everything I wanted to keep.. maybe that'll happen but who knows(I would like it to!)
I'm glad it's still going. Would you be willing to share your turbo map lol:wave:

[Honda#1]

Glad to hear it's still running strong! I miss 3rd gen Accords especially the hatch. Over here in the midwest they're pretty much extinct. Do whatever you can to keep her running strong!

[Tdurr]

glad you decided to bump this! i was scanning through ur build to get inspired again the other day haha. Sucks about the rust but glad you are still driving it around! i thought i was the only turbo 3g daily for a while.

[BITESIZE]

Is this Hatch still alive? :) I was bored at work, so I went through all 39 pages.