Best adjustable front upper arm?

[w261w261]

The previous owner of my car hit a pot hole so hard she had to buy a new wheel. I guess it also moved a suspension mounting point some, as the camber on the right is about 1 degree (negative) more than on the left. It wasn't a particular problem until I lowered an inch. Now, the right camber is -2.7 deg and the left -1.7, and I'm thinking of getting adjustable upper arms. I know about the Prelude arms, but I don't want to mess with washers, etc. I don't mind the cost, just want to do what fits best and is the highest quality.

Yesterday, after plowing through dozens of threads, I found one that linked to a site that sold new upper arms of their own design, but of course I moved on and now can't find it again. I did read of some members' so-so experiences with the Ingalls arms, so would like to look further.

One more thing: Although I don't notice any other effects of the right suspension mount being out a bit, I suppose I could take the car to a body shop and they could crank it back. That way I would be -1.7 deg on both sides, and I could live with that. Seems to me though that the simplest thing to do is get an adjustable arm. Yes?

Anyone have any recommendations for a new adjustable front arm? Thanks.

[2drSE-i]

So far, the best solution ive ever heard or seen in this forum has been for the Prelude arms. Washers aside, these are the best for camber adjustability. I think you should have the right side of the car fixed and adjusted out though, just for peice of mind. (im a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to suspension.

[knarg]

im using the prelude arms and they work great....


but i think i do need rear adjustable arms :/

[MessyHonda]

yeah for adjustably you need lude arms and a set of camber kit...to adjust it even more...but that is only if you are dropped like 3 inches

[w261w261]

It was hard to get a feel for the position of the washers when the Lude arms are installed. Do they go towards the front of the car, the back, or evenly spaced on both sides? Or does it not make much difference. 85-87 is the right generation I guess. Anyone know which group they're listed under on the parts diagrams from Majestic, etc. I can't seem to find them.

[AZmike]

The position of the washers affects the position of the upper ball joint. The axis of the upper control arm points inward toward the front of the car. This means that adding the washers in front of the arm will give more caster and less camber negative camber. Given what you're trying to accomplish this may be your best option. You may notice extra steering effort required at speed along with a greater tendency for the steering to self-center because of the increased caster. I preferred it this way.

[thegreatdane]

P|eszczoH is using 3rd gen prelude arms, he said they bolted right up, unlike the 2nd gen lude arms.

[w261w261]

I did make a stop at a good collision shop today, one that has their own alignment equipment. I talked to the owner about possibly resetting the right front mounting points. He said it would take about 2 hours to get the car in the jig, then maybe 3 hours more to make it straight. For the small change in camber desired, it clearly isn't worth it.

I then went to the Honda dealer and looked at the costs involved for all new Prelude '87 arms. Wowee! Around $350 retail for all the pieces, EACH side. That's not the way to go. Probably I'll get the inner part of the arm from a donor vehicle and just get the outer part with the ball joint from Majestic.

[Oldblueaccord]

If its the camber thats off I would not even worry about it. Esp since its negative. It be nice that they be the same but on an old car that hard to do.
Your not going to notice tire wear with it alteast I dont and I run -2 both sides.

Theres some crash parts I use there ok. Specialty product I think is the make.I did a write up here some where. I dont think Ingalls makes a product but if they do let us no I'd like to try something else.


http://www.spcperformance.com/PROD_DIR/SPCPerf_PROD_SEARCH_DYN.cfm?cmd=Cam&cmd2=84600&cmd3=

EDIT: added in link since search can't find post with my own loggin name in it.

wp

[w261w261]

The camber adjusters referred to in the last post have 3 positions: +3/4, +1 1/2, and -3/4 degrees. I hope this isn't too dense of a question, but I'm assuming that those degree changes mean from what is already there? In other words, my right side is now at -2.7. If I installed one of the pieces, and set it to +1 1/2, then I would net out with -1.2 degrees. Likewise on the left, currently at -1.7, I could set the new piece at + 3/4, and end up with a net of about -1.0. I could live with that.

Also, the right mounting bolts are under a box which is next to the firewall, with a bunch of vacuum tubes coming out of it. Is that box hard to move out of the way?

These units seem like the best and most economical way to go for my needs. I don't particularly like the sliding adjustment idea anyway, because I wonder how easy it is to knock it out of adjustment.

[Oldblueaccord]

Yes to your first question. its not quite precise. If you really need to you could flip the left and right kits around side to side.

The box has 1 or 2 bolts and you can flip it out of the way to get at the mounting bolts. You might have to unplug the elctrical plug. its your MAP sensor actually.

The only thing I can add is the rubber washers that come with it are not very good. If you can get some teflon washers from somewhere like MSC that would be good other wise you might just try regualr steel washers. Those rubber ones in my set up lasted maybe 6 months.


wp

[w261w261]

Thanks for the information, I really appreciate it.