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View Full Version : Primary booster venturi comes back again... but I fixed it??? Still running bad.



poor_red_neck
12-24-2007, 05:03 PM
So a few months ago I was freaking out about my accord... symptoms were it would idle fine, and WOT was fine after about 3000 RPM, but small throttle inputs led to 100 percent loss of power.

After MUCH help of this board, it was the primary booster venturi. The screw was MISSING that held it in place.

So at the time of me fixing it, I also did a stage 4 vac removal. Everything gone, including the air jet controller, choke, everything.

The car has ran FANTASTIC. Except for the first mile or so when its cold, it runs great.

Well, fooling around the other day with a couple guys after I got off work, we decided to smoke the tires a bit in the parking lot. It was wet outside, everybody else has gone home. Santa is bringing me new tires sooo.... :)

I pull the ebrake and start burnin some rubber. Car's sliding around, tires a smokin all good huh? :Owned:
Well, the car was not fully warmed up. I don't think it is relevant... but just incase I am guilty of that. I know better than to rev the motor when its cold but I did. Shame on me.


So after fooling around I decide to smoke another cigg. with my co-workers laughing at the busted 3G with smoke coming off the wheels. We chit chat about holiday plans and what not, then its time to go. Car has been left idling for maybe 10 minutes. I get in, go to take off at a normal rate of speed and PUT PUT PUT PUT BBBGOOOOOOOGGGGGG.

Feels EXACTLY like I did when the venturi was screwed up.

Well... I drive over to my buddy's house and park it in the garage. I take the air box off and the brass screen. I wiggle the venturi... :wtf: it's loose again. NOT the bolt. I loc-tit'ed the bolt in there. It was snug but the venturi was loose. I take the bolt out and then the venturi to inspect it. Looks as if I over-tightened the bolt a little bit and it dug into the aluminum. I guess the factory set-screw had a bit of a taper to it and the bolt did not. So i thought no big deal...

I taper the bolt shaft on the grinder to fit into the groove on the venturi. Fits snug as a bug. Clean the venturi really well just as a precaution and then re-install it. Use some loc-tite and re-install the bolt to hold the venturi against the fuel feed side. Start the car.... no go. Same problem.

So I'm not panicking yet. I take it back off and realize that the o-ring is shot. It's completely flat and not sealing at all. So I find some fuel safe o-rings laying around and found one that fit "as good as its going to get" as it appears the o-ring that is meant to be used is actually flat, not round. This is all I had though, and I'm sure it would serve the same purpose.

Re-install venturi again with this new o-ring thinking "OK, this is is the last time I'll have to worry about this problem again."

Oh how naive I was.

Didn't fix a f*cking thing!!!! Now I'm panicking. Can a venturi "go bad?" What else is causing this? I cleaned it very well, stuck carb cleaner threw the inlet side of the venturi and sprayed no clogs.

I started the car and with the filter box and screen off tried to see if I could witness what was going on with the fuel. The idle pump squirts fuel in as it should, but fuel only comes out the main jet on the venturi at WOT and it's not a nice atomized mixture like it was the first time I did this fix.

Questions:

1) Is it just a coincidence that this happened with me doing burnouts like an idiot in the parking lot?
2) Can something happen to the venturi to make it "go bad?"
3) What else can it be?


I know the fuel pump is ok. Fuel filters are brand new and flow fine. The float level is a bit too high, but always has been. Never been a problem. The o-ring in the adjustment screw is bad and I just haven't had the time to fool around with it. Keep in mind that I have a full stage 4 vac removal done. No distributor advance, no AJC, no nothing. No adjustments were ever done on the carb other than the idle.

Any ideas?

I'm so sick of screwing with this damn carb. If I don't get it fixed by payday I'm getting a weber. I don't want to have to fool with tuning a new carb because I don't have the slightest clue what to do and I don't have the time to wait on additional jets to come in the mail and all that non-sense. A factory re-man carb is too expensive to justify and I don't think rebuilding the factory carb is going to solve it. I think there is a problem physically with the booster venturi... I don't know. I think I may have over tightened it, causing the mating surface of the venturi to the fuel "connection" to become bent. I have a pretty hefty o-ring on there now though, so it should be sealing JUST FINE.

2oodoor
12-25-2007, 06:34 AM
sounds like some sort of obstruction or possibly a leak in the booster area.
Make sure your secondary is closing all the way at idle.

poor_red_neck
12-25-2007, 10:07 AM
Secondary closes completely...

It is definitely a fuel delivery problem related to the primary side. I can see it visually. I just don't know if it is an obstruction or if there can be physically something wrong with the venturi.

2oodoor
12-25-2007, 02:12 PM
is it possible to have it in tilted?
you have everything stripped off, the tophat should be easy to get off to see if there is trash in there. I forgot, did you ever take it off? what did you do about a gasket?

poor_red_neck
12-25-2007, 02:31 PM
Well, I have the top-hat off now. I have not taken it off until now. I removed the venturis without taking the top hat off.



I've narrowed it down to the bowl level being too high.

I pinched off the fuel hose with it running and once it started to drop it revved up fine.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=63368

I now have the top-hat off because when I tried to adjust the float level, fuel started gushing out of the screw so the o-rings are bad.

Now my problem is that I can't find the damn o-rings that will fit.

I don't know what I'm going to do about the gasket for the top-hat. It came off very clean so I think I'm going to put a little bit of black RTV on the carb to make a gasket then drive it like that for a couple weeks until I get a weber. I'm sick of this stupid carb.

2oodoor
12-25-2007, 02:37 PM
never ever use RTV around the carb, especially there. Seriously do not do it!!!
If you have to use something, use a very thin little wipe of grease.
You still have 12 volts at that little solenoid thing on the back of the carb?
Hope you get it going to drive. I am in the market for another Weber too. If you get the kit for the A20, it comes jetted already....32/36 does anyway.

2oodoor
12-25-2007, 02:40 PM
I may wind up using a Holley 5200 series if I can find one reman for cheap, and just order the adapter from Weber. Same carb, just have to make linkage to work.
I saw a nice O ring assortment at Tractor Supply that may work with that.

poor_red_neck
12-25-2007, 03:30 PM
I have one... they just aren't the right size. Some are too fat, some are too skinny. They just don't fit.

No RTV on the carb huh? Hmm...

2oodoor
12-25-2007, 03:36 PM
yep that silcone can make its way inside the carb and you talk about a mess. That stuff gets everywhere, silcone is evil.. lol
never use it on carbs or auto trannys, anything that has tiny places for things to flow. If it gets in a carb it is pretty much ruined unless you can soak it disassembled and blow out each and every orifice.

A20A1
12-27-2007, 07:34 PM
check your vacuum hoses for leaks... might want to replace a few if they are dry/hard/old and expanded near the ends because it wont seal right anymore.

Might want to make a new top hat gasket if you keep removing the top of the carb.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5350