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View Full Version : timing belt: how difficult to change?



POS carb
05-08-2002, 09:47 AM
I have someone who wants me to change the timing belt in their accord but I don't know how much I should charge. Can it be done in a driveway without taking out the motor or crank pulley? How about checking for bent valves, how could I go about doing that? I need an answer as soon as possible so I can let this guy know if I'll do it or not. Thanks

mike_fx_u
05-08-2002, 10:00 AM
Ive done it once. When I bought my 89 Lxi I had a blown head gasket. So when I was replacing the head gasket I thought hey it would be a good time to do the timing belt. This is were all "my" problems began. For some reason I could not break the crank bolt loose. I used the tire iron in the trunk because it is the same size as the crank bolt. I put it on the crank bolt and tried breaking it loose but it wouldn't. So positioned the tire iron so that i could use my foot to push it with all my weight(6'4" and 300lb), I was totally off the ground and the damn thing still wouldn't break off so I said f**k it and just did the head gasket. Then a week later, bam, god damn timing belt broke. Due to that it cause the head gasket to blow again. So i did the head gasket again and final got the crank bolt loose. the best thing to do is spray a shit load "PC Blaster"(found in autopart store) on the back of the bolt and let it sit overnight then you should be able to get it off. It is a little difficult to do I would Charge atleast $100 plus parts.

.:Mike:.

carotman
05-08-2002, 10:10 AM
an impact wrench workd good for that.

SWELLS
05-08-2002, 10:10 AM
It's really not that hard, just take your drivers side wheel and pull the pulley off. People have said it will bend valves if it breaks but i've had three break on different Honda's and not one has bent yet, but if it broke while driving I would still check it. If your just changing because of wear and age on it just mark your timing all up and put it on. Be sure when you put your bottom pulley back on to use some loctite on it. I threw one off going bout 60 mph and it was never found again. It done a number on the key slot also, I had to weld it up and redress it. So not really a hard job even better if you have air tools. Good luck!

POS carb
05-08-2002, 11:18 AM
I called around and the best price I got was $312 so i told the guy that and that I would do it for $250 including parts and I'd go to his house and he said "I'll think about it" which is fine with me cuz I didn't really want to do it. :p

Sabz5150
05-08-2002, 11:37 AM
Cut him a serious deal. Personally, I would charge 100 dollars plus parts (20 bux for a belt?). Why so cheap? Because if he needs work again, he'll come to you. And that's extra money in YOUR pocket and going into YOUR car, not the auto shop's hands.

-5150 :bandit:

ACCORD EX
05-08-2002, 02:34 PM
when changing the belt ! do i need to adjust ingition timin ?
:)


MIKE

88turboaccord
05-08-2002, 03:33 PM
Hey, bring it by my place, I am a pro at changing timing belts. (BTW, I have a house now with a real garage...) It would have to be in the latter part of next week though, or at night...

Let me know

[email protected]

mike_fx_u
05-08-2002, 03:53 PM
yeah i tried a impact wrench but it would not work. So i called a mechanic buddy of mine and asked if he had a better impact wrench. He did so we tried that with no luck. We even took the regulator off the air compress(the upright type like 5' or 6') and still didnt work. Only thing that did work was the PC Blaster overnight. So I suggest even if in your case it might not be to difficult give it a few shots the day before or the night before so you dont have to go through the same difficulties.

Also when you turn the bolt it will turn over the engine. To prevent this from happening there is a opening on the bell housing (where the flywheel is located) use a large screw driver type tool to hold it(fly wheel) from moving if the impact wrench wont work.

.:Mike:.

88turboaccord
05-08-2002, 04:00 PM
Be careful when you use the screwdriver method. I have cracked a bellhouseing that way before......

locknload68
05-08-2002, 04:23 PM
When I had mine done, the guy charged me $90 :D


Also, I have a question. Why do you have to take the pulley off? Can't you just slide the belt on and off?

accordlx
05-09-2002, 02:04 AM
POS. Most of the time when I charge somebody to work on their car, I have them get 3 estimates and charge them half of the average of the 3 estimates.

dosh8er
05-09-2002, 03:45 AM
Originally posted by locknload68
When I had mine done, the guy charged me $90 :D


Also, I have a question. Why do you have to take the pulley off? Can't you just slide the belt on and off?

Good point! Why not just take out the engine mount, carefully put a jack under the engine, and slip the old belt off the cam gear, and the pulley at the bottom... and then throw the new one on, no need for adjustment. That's how i would do it... I haven't done mine yet however. I'm gonna do it during my summer break here, when I don't have to work.

Won't this method work?

Jareds 89 LX-i
05-09-2002, 03:50 AM
I'm not sure about the 3geez, but when I changed the water pump on my sisters '91 Maxima, I had to remove the crank pulley just to get the timing belt covers off. By the time everything was off to get to the water pump, I could of slipped a new timing belt on in about 2 minutes :mad: :rant:

I know that probably didn't help any, but at least it was somewhat related, heh :rolleyes:

flexsource
05-09-2002, 07:37 AM
Yes the crank pulley is a pain but it will come off with around 450 ft/lb of torque.

The best way I have found to jam the engine up to get this kind of torque on the bolt is to turn your engine over until the number one psiton is approaching TDC. Take some 1/2 inch nylon rope and cram about a foot or two of it into the number one cylinder, through the plug hole. Continue rotating engine in the normal direction of rotation (CCW) until the piston is jammed against the head by the rope. This has worked on many engines that I have overhauled. Saves busting the flywheel and knuckles

Yes both arms and feet are required! It is extremely tight.

accordlx
05-09-2002, 08:10 AM
I havent heard the rope trick for about 10 years. That is an excellent way of getting off crank pulleys too. I think that the rope in the cylinder trick is even in some of the old GM factory manuals.

BTW. The last time I did my timing belt, I don't remember taking off any pulleys. I do remember removing an engine mount though. Someone correct me if Im wrong but no pulleys need to be removed to do a timing belt.

I can't believe that no one has done a how to on this subject. I just checked.

Sabz5150
05-09-2002, 08:20 AM
When I replace my belt, I'm gonna have to take the pulley off... I have to replace my main seals. What fun :werd:

-5150 :bandit:

accordlx
05-09-2002, 08:27 AM
I just looked it up. POS is correct. You do not have to remove the crankshaft sprocket unless you intend to replace the oil seals. The only pulley you have to remove is the water pump pulley when doing a timing belt.

POS carb
05-09-2002, 10:47 PM
an effective way to apply some torque: youe your car!

example: my tranny drain bolt was stuck. I couldn't get enough leverage with the 3/8 ratchet and there wasn't enough room for a cheater pipe, so I raised the car, put a brick under the ratchet, and then lowered the car down, cracked that shit open in no time :super:

Lester Lugnut
05-10-2002, 09:33 PM
Lift front-end - place on jack stands. Pull drivers side front wheel. Use Haynes manual - very good.

How do you break crank bolt loose? Make a counter tool out of wolmonized lumber. Use 2x6 or 2x8.

Drill holes in the end of board that line up with holes on crank pulley. You might have to do a few b4 things line up. Use a paddle bit and drill a 1.25 or 1.50 hole that allows an extension with metric socket to connect to crank bolt. Slide under car. Pull on board, then loosne bolt. Works like a charm . Also good for retightening. Do thighten it up good.