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Civic Accord Honda
12-30-2007, 09:31 PM
i just got my 87 accord that has a blown head gasket im going to be posting all the progress in to this thread
i also did a compression test my numbers are
#4-70PSI #3-25PSI #2-20PSI #1-110PSI:thumbdn:
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/randomness/dec-30th/43815af9.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/randomness/dec-30th/793c79fc.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/randomness/dec-30th/6d71bff2.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/randomness/dec-30th/f8368c4a.jpg

itzdave
12-31-2007, 01:22 AM
is it a blown head gasket or so you just need some new piston rings? with 362XXX miles id say its prolly due for a rebuild. be sure and throw in a delta 272 while ur at it.:thumbup:

labeledsk8r
12-31-2007, 01:25 AM
is it a blown head gasket or so you just need some new piston rings? with 362XXX miles id say its prolly due for a rebuild. be sure and throw in a delta 272 while ur at it.:thumbup:

thats not the original motor... forrest looked up the block number and the block is a 86 A20A2 from japan... i think the dude shafted him... ohs well cah your TQ wrench will be in the mail monday morn

itzdave
12-31-2007, 01:36 AM
thats not the original motor... forrest looked up the block number and the block is a 86 A20A2 from japan... i think the dude shafted him... ohs well cah your TQ wrench will be in the mail monday morn

hmm. i didnt know they had A-series motors in japan. just thought they had the B20's.

Civic Accord Honda
12-31-2007, 11:18 AM
yup the low end cars over there got the a20 and a18 the 2.0si got the b20a lolol

heres some pics i took
i cant get the damn power steering pump off some jackass striped the nut! :rant:
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/7fc46580.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/4e2e8a11.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/35af3c43.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/843da9dc.jpg

forrest89sei
12-31-2007, 11:37 AM
ZOMG

Cah removed the front bumper the correct way :huh:

lol

Civic Accord Honda
12-31-2007, 11:37 AM
haha
yup

lostforawhile
12-31-2007, 12:01 PM
cah are you sure it's the transmission on the other? maby it's the throwout bearing,or something tore up or jammed in the clutch. you did adjust it before. as far as the spark plug hole,go to sumit racing, they carry a kit to helicoil that,that doesn't require drilling. thats a standard metric spark plug thread. drain the oil out the transmission on the other and look for metal.

Civic Accord Honda
12-31-2007, 12:19 PM
yeah the trans is shot in the 88
if i pop it in 5th and let off the clucth it is just like N 1-4 grinds like crzy and R locks the trans up lol

itzdave
12-31-2007, 12:47 PM
why did you take off the bumper to change the head gasket?

russiankid
12-31-2007, 12:49 PM
You can get a kit from Sears that comes with different bits to remove broken or stripped bolts. It costs around $30 but its worth it. Also don't forget to put bolts in bags and label everything. Labeling is a key factor in such as this.

russiankid
12-31-2007, 12:50 PM
why did you take off the bumper to change the head gasket?
It gives you more room to lean over and work. :wave:

Civic Accord Honda
12-31-2007, 01:42 PM
You can get a kit from Sears that comes with different bits to remove broken or stripped bolts. It costs around $30 but its worth it. Also don't forget to put bolts in bags and label everything. Labeling is a key factor in such as this.
yeah im labeling and putting everything in baggys :)
and i might have to get that kit


It gives you more room to lean over and work. :wave:
yup

forrest89sei
12-31-2007, 01:50 PM
Yeah he's gonna do it right, Me and Justin (sk8er) had a good talk with him last night on that.

And yeah It makes front motor work alot easier when you take off the bumper, just the 2 Bolts on each side under the Front Signals and the screws on each side and your good to go.

Also prevents you from spilling oil and crap on the bumper, and makes getting to the Exhuast mani ALOT easier

labeledsk8r
12-31-2007, 01:55 PM
looking good except that striped bolt, i would get what rusian is talking about i have used them and works great.. just buy a new bolt for when you re-install it... but looking good and gald to see your takeing your time to get the correct tools....

speaking of tools... i sent your TQ wrench out today.. and even upgraded you to first class shiping to get it there faster :wave:

itzdave
12-31-2007, 02:16 PM
id remove the whole p/s system while ur at it. the car is light enough that its not hard to steer without it, except for MAYBE if ur in a very tight parking lot.

Civic Accord Honda
12-31-2007, 02:50 PM
id remove the whole p/s system while ur at it. the car is light enough that its not hard to steer without it, except for MAYBE if ur in a very tight parking lot.
its removed on my lxi lol

well il still going to finish the engine tare down but i dont think i will be reuseing this engine...
this car may be getting some other things happening to it bigger and better plans :)
:wave:

itzdave
01-01-2008, 01:54 AM
its removed on my lxi lol

well il still going to finish the engine tare down but i dont think i will be reuseing this engine...
this car may be getting some other things happening to it bigger and better plans :)
:wave:

bigger and better plans???
care to share?

labeledsk8r
01-01-2008, 01:59 AM
but i dont think i will be reuseing this engine...

:wave:

i wouldnt say that cah... if i were you... and if it can be done... fix that engine if its not to far gone.. new head at the most... and then pick up a second engine to start building in the garage...if you do this right.. even doing a head change... will give you alot of good know how... plus then you can get her running for less and get a job LOL

itzdave
01-01-2008, 02:19 AM
i wouldnt say that cah... if i were you... and if it can be done... fix that engine if its not to far gone.. new head at the most... and then pick up a second engine to start building in the garage...if you do this right.. even doing a head change... will give you alot of good know how... plus then you can get her running for less and get a job LOL

:werd:

2oodoor
01-01-2008, 05:12 AM
if its not the original engine then the mileage is unknown, the bottom end may be ok, need to inspect the cyl


I do not see how taking off the front facia makes the job any easier, I had no problem with the front engine access but I have a creeper stool that saved the bending over part. The exhaust bolts only took about thirty minutes, how does the time compare to taking the body facia of PLUS doing the exhaust bolts? Just wondering ... not knocking anybodys procedures and techniques....and the PS bolt, doesnt one have a nut on the other side you have to hold it with a wrench while you turn the other side?

lostforawhile
01-01-2008, 09:21 AM
i wouldnt say that cah... if i were you... and if it can be done... fix that engine if its not to far gone.. new head at the most... and then pick up a second engine to start building in the garage...if you do this right.. even doing a head change... will give you alot of good know how... plus then you can get her running for less and get a job LOL
i think they overheated it until it quit,they even bypassed the fan switch, from the amount of oil in the coolant he found,to the extremly low compression he found on all four cylinders,i think it's gone. it would be cheaper and much eaisier for him to find a junk one with a running engine then to try to rebuild an engine when he has no experience.

russiankid
01-01-2008, 09:33 AM
if its not the original engine then the mileage is unknown, the bottom end may be ok, need to inspect the cyl


I do not see how taking off the front facia makes the job any easier, I had no problem with the front engine access but I have a creeper stool that saved the bending over part. The exhaust bolts only took about thirty minutes, how does the time compare to taking the body facia of PLUS doing the exhaust bolts? Just wondering ... not knocking anybodys procedures and techniques....and the PS bolt, doesnt one have a nut on the other side you have to hold it with a wrench while you turn the other side?

Not sure, but i think there is a special groove for that bolt so you don't have to hold it. I know i never held mine when i took the power steering pump off.

lostforawhile
01-01-2008, 09:39 AM
another question is where is he going to get the precision measuring tools to check the engine if he rebuilds it? he probably will need a 1 through 3 inch micrometer set, a bore gauge set, precision straight edge to check for warpage, feeler gauges, dial indicator, the list goes on, and i'm not trying to be ugly,but he can barely operate a socket wrench,let alone use precision instruments. i just hate to see him get into something he will never finish.

coope
01-01-2008, 10:24 AM
do a FI swap while ur at it

knarg
01-01-2008, 01:31 PM
looks like you are getting busy hehe

Civic Accord Honda
01-02-2008, 04:56 PM
just got this :D
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/ba4c1da1.jpg
i also used to have one like this but lost it
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/472d605e.jpg

88Accord-DX
01-03-2008, 06:48 PM
Looks like a pretty good start for beginners. Compression readings can mean several different things with a trained eye. Since your that far, pull the head of with the intake & exhaust manifold on, much easier.
With out a leak down test or having a valve job, do a simple old school valve seat check. Lay the head up-side down & pour water on the valve recess. Watch for any leaks out the intake or exhaust, any leaks will need the valve seats lapped or a valve job. :)

88Accord-DX
01-08-2008, 07:37 PM
if its not the original engine then the mileage is unknown, the bottom end may be ok, need to inspect the cyl


I do not see how taking off the front facia makes the job any easier, I had no problem with the front engine access but I have a creeper stool that saved the bending over part. The exhaust bolts only took about thirty minutes, how does the time compare to taking the body facia of PLUS doing the exhaust bolts? Just wondering ... not knocking anybodys procedures and techniques....and the PS bolt, doesnt one have a nut on the other side you have to hold it with a wrench while you turn the other side?

Like I said, without a leak down test, he just went pulled the head off. I don't see why the he took the whole front facia off either. This job doesn't require that much work. I think he needs to invest in a straight edge & torque wrench if he wants any kind of good results. Along with knowing what he islooking at with that head after is off. :wave:

labeledsk8r
01-08-2008, 07:43 PM
Like I said, without a leak down test, he just went pulled the head off. I don't see why the he took the whole front facia off either. This job doesn't require that much work. I think he needs to invest in a straight edge & torque wrench if he wants any kind of good results. Along with know what he looking at with that head after it's off. :wave:

he hasnt pulled the head yet?? i just see a pulled valve cover. still plenty of time to do a leak down. and takeing the front of does help...i know when i did mine i removed the radiator but not the bumper, and i wish i woulda.. that 10 minutes it takes to remove a bumper saved your knee caps hours of pain... im a young guy and and skate wich puts my knees threw hell... but nothing hurts worse then leaning against them for over 10 minutes plus leaning over a engine bay... i say for what its worth its smart, he's in no rush to get it done... its not in a shop so he isnt really worried about saveing time... i think it was smart

88Accord-DX
01-08-2008, 07:51 PM
Your talking about pulling the radiator & condenser along with all the other B.S. to do a head gasket job is easier? NO thank you. What is important here is knowing how to look if the head needs work in my opinion.

labeledsk8r
01-08-2008, 07:57 PM
Your talking about pulling the radiator & condenser along with all the other B.S. to do a head gasket job is easier? NO thank you. What is important here is knowing how to look if the head needs work in my opinion.

meh A/C didnt work anyways might aswell pull it... the radiator has oil in it... should be pulled to be cleaned then... really i dont see much worse... and he isnt just doing head gasket, he is pulling the trans aswell, along with it needing carb work...really i dont think its that much more work to pull a radiator and bumper... i guess its opinion

2ndGenGuy
01-08-2008, 08:04 PM
Keep up the good work CAH. Those manuals should help you a ton! If you've got a few extra bucks, I recommend picking up the silver factory service manual on eBay... unless of course you already have it. The Chilton's can be vague and missing some critical diagrams at times. But I've got that one with the yellow Prelude on it, and having a second source sometimes can help clear up confusion.

88Accord-DX
01-08-2008, 08:52 PM
The head bolts can be re-used, get a torque wrench to torque them down properly. Use oil on the bolts & clean the hole out good. Check that head for the valve seats in the old school method I mention. Replace the valve stem seals, have the head check for straightness. Good luck son.

Civic Accord Honda
01-08-2008, 09:03 PM
:) yeah i got a tq wench hope to get the head off sometime next week wanted to get it off the other day but the manifold to downpipe bolts are stuck so.. i gotta remove it from the cat

Civic Accord Honda
01-10-2008, 02:47 PM
got the head off looks good
engine seems to have super low miles
also found out my center head bolts were lose so many thats why it was leaking....

pics to come soon

forrest89sei
01-10-2008, 02:52 PM
got the head off looks good
engine seems to have super low miles
also found out my center head bolts were lose so many thats why it was leaking....

pics to come soon


Post them now :wave:

Civic Accord Honda
01-10-2008, 02:58 PM
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/43deb5c4.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/5abc58bd.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/df31ffe7.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/e9993788.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/cf7a8e71.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/bab32c77.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/8e365ea4.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/2bbf21cc.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/e2666474.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/237d4296.jpg

Civic Accord Honda
01-10-2008, 02:59 PM
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/9478c1b5.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/18e20833.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/bc1e2d39.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/e5c63bc5.jpg

MessyHonda
01-10-2008, 03:12 PM
looks like you got to clean out everything while you are in there.

knarg
01-10-2008, 03:14 PM
not bad :)

labeledsk8r
01-10-2008, 03:19 PM
did you by chance use the TQ wrench when looseing the head bolts?? if so i would like to know what those center bolts were TQed at, you said they were loose.... and the compresion numbers show that the center ylinders came back with a crap reading... mayby someone didnt rebuilt that engine correcntly and the bolts back themselves out

lostforawhile
01-10-2008, 03:46 PM
just be glad they didn't cheap out and go with plain water. or you would have had a rusted mess. the antifreeze probably kept the rings from rusting to the bores.

Civic Accord Honda
01-10-2008, 05:36 PM
http://s242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/Dark_Accord/1987-Honda-Accord-DX/head-gasket-repair/head%20off/part-2/
more pics

forrest89sei
01-10-2008, 06:10 PM
looks like it will be a healthy motor once it's been flushed and the HG has been replaced

Civic Accord Honda
01-11-2008, 12:35 AM
yeah hopefully :D

Civic Accord Honda
01-11-2008, 02:22 PM
is there a way to flush the block with the head off?

russiankid
01-11-2008, 02:34 PM
Through the water pipe.

forrest89sei
01-11-2008, 03:12 PM
Through the water pipe.


What about the oil passages?

he needs to flush those too

Civic Accord Honda
01-11-2008, 03:22 PM
k and is there a way to remove the lower timing belt cover with out removing thaat huge ass pully

russiankid
01-11-2008, 03:27 PM
What about the oil passages?

he needs to flush those too

Plug them up somehow.

russiankid
01-11-2008, 03:28 PM
k and is there a way to remove the lower timing belt cover with out removing thaat huge ass pully

Nope.

2oodoor
01-11-2008, 03:37 PM
no
looks like the head gasket blew like a mutha dood
between 3-4 AND 1-2 and you got a free steam blasting of your pistions in the process !
The chilton books ARE very vague and generic, if you have a good public library, go check out and see if they have a good manual. Most citys I have been in do have good automotive books in the library.
LISTEN to the advice you are getting here, labeledsktr and ddude2uc, Forrest and Lost....KNOW and have good experience :wave: I will lurk, too many cooks in the kitchen spoils the soup.:cheers:

Civic Accord Honda
01-11-2008, 04:09 PM
yea i checked out my lilbray they just had the chilltons that i allready have lol

how do i get that pully off? if turn it wont the whole pully just turn lol

forrest89sei
01-11-2008, 04:11 PM
yea i checked out my lilbray they just had the chilltons that i allready have lol

how do i get that pulley off? if turn it wont the whole pulley just turn lol


Well Honda lists a tool that you use that bolts to the flywheel to keep it from turning, But I know matt has undone his without that tool, ask him?

labeledsk8r
01-11-2008, 04:32 PM
i used a screw driver down in the timeing light hole to keep the crank from turning... BUT when i was finsihing up the person that was holding it (so it wouldnt slide down in) said they had taken out, i cranked the car over and BAM it snaped off in there..... be sure to do this gently and use a nice thick heavy duty driver... also dont bounce on the socket as your trying to looosen it. nice steady pull...it helps to have someone hold the driver so it doesnt get loose and you end up on your ass from pulling.... should take about 35-50 lbs to get that fucker off

cygnus x-1
01-11-2008, 07:27 PM
how do i get that pully off? if turn it wont the whole pully just turn lol

Get an impact wrench. Don't even bother screwing around with any other method. It's not worth the time you'll waste trying to get it off. If you don't have a compressor get an electric impact wrench. The decent ones actually work better than you might think.

C|

russiankid
01-11-2008, 08:01 PM
Also, i heated mine up with a torch before hitting it with an impact gun, worked like a charm!

lostforawhile
01-11-2008, 08:10 PM
Also, i heated mine up with a torch before hitting it with an impact gun, worked like a charm!
UM cah,+torch? what doesn't work here?

russiankid
01-11-2008, 08:15 PM
UM cah,+torch? what doesn't work here?

A fire?

Civic Accord Honda
01-13-2008, 05:08 PM
well i have not goten anything else done latey since im sick :(

AccordB20A
01-13-2008, 05:27 PM
Your Slack. Hurry up it should be done allready. lol
why do you need to remove the lower cam cover??
that head gasket looks random.. why is there 3 layers to it?
before you go and get a new gasket and install it PLEASE ask someone how to check the head for warpage. Thats the usual problem that happens to these a20a2s

russiankid
01-13-2008, 05:29 PM
Your Slack. Hurry up it should be done allready. lol
why do you need to remove the lower cam cover??
that head gasket looks random.. why is there 3 layers to it?
before you go and get a new gasket and install it PLEASE ask someone how to check the head for warpage. Thats the usual problem that happens to these a20a2s

Only the A20A2's? This is an A20A1, i believe the heads are all the same...

labeledsk8r
01-13-2008, 05:35 PM
Only the A20A2's? This is an A20A1, i believe the heads are all the same...

technicly this is a A20a2... but yeah all the a20 heads are the same...

Civic Accord Honda
01-14-2008, 04:00 AM
yeah its a A20A2 :P
and yea i want to check the head for warpage i need to get some tools :P

2oodoor
01-14-2008, 04:46 AM
dam, stop STOP
it is an aluminum head, you already know it ran hot, Of COURSE have it checked and resurfaced. It looks like it blew in two places so, yep the head may be warped or worse. The same factoid thanks to A18 is true for ANY aluminum head, iron block engine.. they can just blow for no obvious reason and when they do and you keep running them, they run hot... so running hot may not always be the exact reason WHY the gasket gave in but it may be the reason it then ran hot so that the head may be wavy and a head bolt or two may seem loose coming out.

labeledsk8r
01-14-2008, 03:23 PM
yeah its a A20A2 :P
and yea i want to check the head for warpage i need to get some tools :P

heres exactly what you need


Feeler gauge

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/labeledsk8r/19613462.jpg

precision straight edge

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/labeledsk8r/Metal-Straight-Edge.jpg

then go by the rules of your hynes or chilton (should be in chilton i think) and you test left to right top to bottom corner, bottom to top corner and there might be some others check the book but it will look like this, and remember you want the head clean and clear of old head gasket and oils

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/labeledsk8r/10_29_8.jpg


im no up to date on tool costs... but your not looking at OMG expensive tools

2oodoor
01-14-2008, 03:44 PM
I dont think the yota head will work though....na
j/k sktr

labeledsk8r
01-14-2008, 04:02 PM
I dont think the yota head will work though....na
j/k sktr

lol yeah for some reason google image search didnt wana give me any a20 heads lolol, oh well he can get the consept from it still

2oodoor
01-14-2008, 04:13 PM
lol yeah for some reason google image search didnt wana give me any a20 heads lolol, oh well he can get the consept from it still

hey can he just go to home depot and get a lil piece of aluminum or stainless 2" stock bar to use for a streight edge?

hold it in the X check patterns you gave, and use a match book or some thick photo printer paper or "ghetto plastiguage" to drag under the suspected areas. I usually just get down and look to see light under the streight edge, the warped areas show right up. I couldnt explain to someone else how to do that though..
sorry, im back to lurking now....

labeledsk8r
01-14-2008, 04:22 PM
hey can he just go to home depot and get a lil piece of aluminum or stainless 2" stock bar to use for a streight edge?

hold it in the X check patterns you gave, and use a match book or some thick photo printer paper or "ghetto plastiguage" to drag under the suspected areas. I usually just get down and look to see light under the streight edge, the warped areas show right up. I couldnt explain to someone else how to do that though..

i wouldnt just use stock bar as a straight edge... just incase there are inperfections. the head has to be checked in the decimal mm range, the paper trick works.. but unless you know the thickness of the paper... he couldnt ever figure out how badly warped it it (could be the difrence of the head only needing a re-surface or the head being a large paper weight) i would recomend buy the straight edge and feeler gauge... i dont think they could be above 35 bucks together and there usefull tools to have. hell i would send you a feeler gauge but i seem to have left mine in maine when i left half me tools to drive to florida..

cygnus x-1
01-14-2008, 07:12 PM
Bar stock is not good enough. You need a precision straight edge that is accurate to .001" or better. Probably $50 minimum. You might as well just have it checked by a shop. If it's not warped they may not even charge you for the inspection.

C|

lostforawhile
01-14-2008, 07:47 PM
i guess i could make him a piece of aluminum bar stock that is milled accurate, but i can't afford to keep mailing this stuff out,not that i mind doing it.

88Accord-DX
01-16-2008, 09:39 PM
You can get a straight edge for about $50 after shipping on ebay. It's milled to .001 accuracy . (straight edge was a piece of the 'box of goodies' that arrived today) :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/straitedge.jpg

lostforawhile
01-17-2008, 01:28 PM
cah if i get a chance i'll mill you one. i can mill something withing a thousanth i think

cygnus x-1
01-18-2008, 11:00 AM
Remember that's .001" over about 16". If you can hold that with a mill you're doing pretty good. Generally straight edges are ground because it's more precise.

C|

lostforawhile
01-18-2008, 02:08 PM
Remember that's .001" over about 16". If you can hold that with a mill you're doing pretty good. Generally straight edges are ground because it's more precise.

C|
if i could find a way to hold it on the table i would do it on the surface grinder.

cygnus x-1
01-18-2008, 06:03 PM
if i could find a way to hold it on the table i would do it on the surface grinder.

Magnetic chuck?

I'm jealous that you have access to a surface grinder.

C|

Civic Accord Honda
01-18-2008, 06:07 PM
this project is on hold for right now

lostforawhile
01-18-2008, 07:55 PM
why is it on hold?

Ichiban
01-18-2008, 09:24 PM
if i could find a way to hold it on the table i would do it on the surface grinder.

How do you usually hold anything to the table of the surface grinder? You need a magnetic chuck. Also, aren't most ground precison straight edges usually accurate to one or two tenths per foot? A straightedge accurate to .001/ft isn't going to tell you if that yota head is out .002 at 16", which is it's limit. Even cold rolled stock is accurate to a thou per foot, isn't it?

lostforawhile
01-19-2008, 05:12 AM
How do you usually hold anything to the table of the surface grinder? You need a magnetic chuck. Also, aren't most ground precison straight edges usually accurate to one or two tenths per foot? A straightedge accurate to .001/ft isn't going to tell you if that yota head is out .002 at 16", which is it's limit. Even cold rolled stock is accurate to a thou per foot, isn't it?well we have a magnetic chuck, but you have to use a small vise on the table and back it up,i don't have a way to hold it to the table on edge. our machine is ancient, it's a wierd one instead of the head moving,the table goes up and down and the head is stationary. i think he needs to take it to a shop anyway, it would take no time to check it for warpage. because it may have overheated he really needs to take the head apart and have a dye penetrant test done in case it has any hairline cracks in it. i wish he lived out here i could help him more. he said there are no machine shops there,but i googled ridgecrest and there are a number of them right near him . complete with directions and phone numbers. i told him to call them and at least talk to some of them,find out what they say. so far he hasn't.

Oldblueaccord
01-19-2008, 11:20 AM
I wouldn't surface grind it anyway but its a nice offer. Most surface grinders the table moves not the wheel it what keeps it accurate. Even then the set up would be tuff since the face need to be up getting it dialed in be a PIA.

fly cut a head might be 35$ maybe 50$ one pass. For all this he could have had it done already.

Just for yourself could try to fly cut it on a mill but the setup would be too tricky to justify the cost.



wp

lostforawhile
01-19-2008, 01:06 PM
I wouldn't surface grind it anyway but its a nice offer. Most surface grinders the table moves not the wheel it what keeps it accurate. Even then the set up would be tuff since the face need to be up getting it dialed in be a PIA.

fly cut a head might be 35$ maybe 50$ one pass. For all this he could have had it done already.

Just for yourself could try to fly cut it on a mill but the setup would be too tricky to justify the cost.



wp
i could do it for him,but the shipping alone would be twice what a machine shop would charge. i could shim it on the table and indicate it so the four corners are the same then flycut it,but not worth the cost. when i did my manifold for the Su's it was even a pain to do.

Ichiban
01-21-2008, 07:42 PM
We have a smaller vise that would hold an A-series head no problem, I could easily dial in the corners like lost said, and run our 6" face mill over it. I don't really see what the big deal is.

lostforawhile
01-22-2008, 01:12 PM
We have a smaller vise that would hold an A-series head no problem, I could easily dial in the corners like lost said, and run our 6" face mill over it. I don't really see what the big deal is.it's the cost of the shipping to get it there it would probably cost 80 bucks shipping for both ways, for less then that a shop could do it for him. there are a number of shops near him too.

Ichiban
01-22-2008, 08:31 PM
I see.

lostforawhile
01-23-2008, 02:03 PM
and cah the transmission goes in from the bottom up,not the other way around.