weber install question

[turabaka]

I was reading through the weber faq, and it said to use quiksteel to plug the coolant whole on the manifold. I was wondering if it would be okay to use j-b weld instead.

[2oodoor]

same thing I believe, it just needs to be metal freindly epoxy material
I used JB on mine, port matched the adapter plate(s) and I had an extra one for a spacer from another kit. I used HiTack (made by permatex brush in can type ) in between all the gaskets. Normally you do not want to use any sealant on carb gaskets, NEVER between the carb base and base gasket, but between the spacers and adapters should be ok. Never use silcone based sealant anywhere near the carb or fuel system, the HiTack is safe it is just resin based adhisive, does not set hard and stays put as long as you use very little of it.
Careful when you get to tightening the nuts on the studs for the carb, the nuts can get to a point where they can turn the whole stud and that would push the plates apart.
It is best to take off the intake manifold to port match the adapters.

[turabaka]

Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna start in on the install later today. By the way. Should I really take out the plenum in the manifold like the faq says. I heard that it'll cause the manifold to warp under heat and develop a leak between it and the adaptors. Am I just being paranoid?

[2oodoor]

yes, you got the 38 didn't you?
you can take out some of the divider without getting into the structural, kinda U groove it. You don't have to do that, but you should do the adapters to manifold port match, it really helps. You don't actually have to do anything but bolt it all on, you can get around to the other stuff later if you buy some extra carb adapter gaskets and and intake to head gasket. I would at least do the adapter port upon install so you wont need the whole kit gasket set later, just the carb base gasket.

[cygnus x-1]

If you have the 32/36 carb then you can use the adapters and intake as is. If you have a 38/38 then consider doing some matching.
Here are some pics of my 38/38 install...

http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/IntakePlenum.jpg
http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/IntakePlenumAdapter.jpg
http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/IntakePorts.jpg
http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/Weber_38-38.jpg

I cut out the entire dividing wall but you probably wouldn't have to go quite that far. At the least try to make the smaller port match the bigger port, so you get more equal airflow through both barrels. Equalizing the airflow was what I was mainly after.

C|

[turabaka]

Thanks guys you've been a big help.

[BITESIZE]

Dude, you have a weber? :) YAY!! Your car is going to be sick. Now you need a lower job and a header!!

[turabaka]

Dude, you have a weber? :) YAY!! Your car is going to be sick. Now you need a lower job and a header!!

haha. yeah it is. I'm trying to get done as much as I can before the next meet. headers, and new suspension are next on the list.

[2oodoor]

http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/IntakePlenum.jpg
^^^ in this picture, this is what I mean by U groove it , cut out a U shape in the baffle without getting into that structural webbing.

Cygnus I can hardly tell you even have an adapter on yours. If you are still running that set up would you consider a phenolic type or aluminum spacer? leaving hood clearance out of the equation...

[BITESIZE]

Pictures!!!

[turabaka]

haha. I'll get you pictures when I start tomorrow. I've got a few things I have to get before I can pull the old carb. New manifold gasket, and I'm gonna go look if bow-wow has some individual jets to sell me or a jetting kit.

[cygnus x-1]

http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/IntakePlenum.jpg
^^^ in this picture, this is what I mean by U groove it , cut out a U shape in the baffle without getting into that structural webbing.

Cygnus I can hardly tell you even have an adapter on yours. If you are still running that set up would you consider a phenolic type or aluminum spacer? leaving hood clearance out of the equation...


In that pic the divider is actually completely cut out but you can't see that because of the angle of the picture.

If I were to do this again I would fill up the factory mounting holes with JB-weld and just drill new holes in the manifold to mount the carb directly. I considered that at the time but didn't do it for some reason I can't remember. Probably I just wanted to hurry up and get it going. :D

Without the spacer I think I could have left the hood in tact. Although with the B18 intake I have now it's not even close. There is a huge hole now.


C|

[A20A1]

The problem with a direct mount to the manifold is that the throttle linkage might hit the manifold, however it would solve some vacuum leaks and decrease plenum volume... :D

[cygnus x-1]

The problem with a direct mount to the manifold is that the throttle linkage might hit the manifold, however it would solve some vacuum leaks and decrease plenum volume... :D

The way I had it setup I think it would have worked. The linkage for the fast idle release might just barely hit but the casting is pretty think so I bet it could be cut out for clearance if needed.

Damn, now I kinda want to try it.

C|

[2oodoor]

The way I had it setup I think it would have worked. The linkage for the fast idle release might just barely hit but the casting is pretty think so I bet it could be cut out for clearance if needed.

Damn, now I kinda want to try it.

C|

Hey I have another Accord that needs a weber or holley, guinea pig? I was thinking maybe fill in with aluminum via a welder though.

Turabaka, got that thing on yet?

[turabaka]

Still working on it. I'm pulling the manifold to port and polish it first. The vac and coolant lines are being a bastard though. They're kinda caked on their after 20 years. :Owned:

[cygnus x-1]

Don't polish the intake. You want a textured surface in order to keep the fuel from condensing on the intake walls. All you really need to do is clean up the casting marks and make sure there isn't a sharp edge at the transition from intake to head port. They don't really have to be matched as long as the head side is larger than the intake side. And make sure the gasket doesn't stick into the port either.

C|

[2oodoor]

I hope you are talking about the adapter plates, porting them to match the intake opening.

[cygnus x-1]

I hope you are talking about the adapter plates, porting them to match the intake opening.

I was talking about the intake to head ports. But the same principles would apply to the adapter plates as well. Textured surface, no sharp edges, no gasket sticking out into the airflow path. There's more benefit to matching around the carb adapter plates for sure. The intake to head interface is likely pretty good as is.

C|

[2oodoor]

yes I was talking about turabaka, I wouldn't break out the mothers polish or nothing, just cut the material out to accomplish the match up of the openings and then make it smooth with about 150-220 grit abrasive.
I don't know if A20A1 still has the pictures of that up or not.
I wish I would have taken pictures of my progress.

[2ndGenGuy]

What kind of bit do you guys use on a dremel for the grinding away of the metal? I think I'm going to portmatch my intake this weekend before I put the manifold on my 1g. :)

[turabaka]

I can't seem to crack the bolts holding the braces to the underside of the manifold. Any tips for getting those out.

[labeledsk8r]

I can't seem to crack the bolts holding the braces to the underside of the manifold. Any tips for getting those out.

are you talking the 2 brackets on the bottom of the manifold or the actully mounts on the head on theunderside?

[cygnus x-1]

I can't seem to crack the bolts holding the braces to the underside of the manifold. Any tips for getting those out.

If it's easier you might be able to get the ones on the block instead. Getting under the manifold is a pain.

C|

[turabaka]

If it's easier you might be able to get the ones on the block instead. Getting under the manifold is a pain.

C|

haha. Thanks for the advice. I just got done doing it that way. I unbolted the brackets from the block, and then unbolted the brackets from the manifold.

[BITESIZE]

I never put the brackets back on.

[BITESIZE]

Trevor, do you have any pictures and are you done yet?

[turabaka]

Trevor, do you have any pictures and are you done yet?

Nope. I'm not done yet. I got slowed down by school, constant snowing, and a lack of a garage. lol. I'll see if I can take some in progress pics for you. but I do have a question.

Do the two thermovalves on the back of the manifold get hooked back up to anything or are they just there to stop the coolant from leaking?

[turabaka]

bump. nobody knows the answer?

[2oodoor]

I dont have anything hooked to mine with the weber on it.

You can use one of them to keep vacuum advance down some until it warms up, depending on how high you are able to run your base ign timing you may want that for those cold morning.

[turabaka]

Alright thanks for the answer.

[cygnus x-1]

I didn't use the thermovalves either, except to plug the holes.

C|

[turabaka]

yeah. I was asking because I broke the plastic part on them trying to get the vac lines off. In the faq section it looks like the plastic part got cut off. Would that be okay to do? or should I just leave it as is?

[A20A1]

every time you post I hope to see pics... you're just teasing me :lol:

[turabaka]

lol. I'll get you some pics later tonight. My dad just bought a nikon D80 so they'll be good pics too. I'll try to get most of it done today as long as it doesn't snow. :Owned:

[BITESIZE]

It must suck not having a garage. We've been getting pounded with snow here, I've been watching the news and you've gotten alot too!!

[turabaka]

It must suck not having a garage. We've been getting pounded with snow here, I've been watching the news and you've gotten alot too!!

yeah. It sucks ass. I was gonna work on my car yesterday. I took one look out the window and saw the snow blowing sideways. I said "fuck that" and went back to surfing 3geez. :Owned:

[2oodoor]

every time you post I hope to see pics... you're just teasing me :lol:

me too, good point


Turabaka you may need to put the camera IN the car for about half an hour then go out and use it, kinda like taking a warm CD out to the cold car, it won't play??? :kekeke:

I also advise bolting the intake manifold braces back underneath.

[turabaka]

Update: it was a pretty nice day today. so I got some work done. Manifold is put back on and I've got all but two of the bolts on. coolant lines hooked back up, brake booster line hooked up. All I have left to do is hook up the throttle cable, attach those two bolts, and refill the coolant lines. Sorry I don't have pictures. I couldn't find the camera, but I'll get some tomorrow after I find it.

[2oodoor]

It must suck not having a garage. We've been getting pounded with snow here, I've been watching the news and you've gotten alot too!!

Indeed it does
there have been many days, esp during the holidays, I would have rather been in a nice warm dry garage working on my rides. Im about ready to look for another house anyway.

[A20A1]

don't forget to bleed the coolant. :D

[turabaka]

don't forget to bleed the coolant. :D

Thanks. I bought some antifreeze so I think I'm just gonna flush the system and start with new coolant also.

[BITESIZE]

Pictures.

[turabaka]

Sorry. I keep forgetting pictures. I didn't even get to work on it yesterday because it snowed so hard. I'll see if I can find the camera today. Hopefully it isn't in my dad's truck.

[turabaka]

update: I have no idea where the camera is so I don't have pictures yet. I've finished installing it, but I have a problem. when I turn on the car it idles at about 3000 rpm. I've tried adjusting the two mixture screws but they aren't doing much of anything to the idle. How in the hell do you adjust the idle on this thing?

[Hauntd ca3]

there should be a screw that acts directly on the throttle shaft or the drum that the cable attaches to
screw it in to speed it up or out to slow it down
since you've screwed with the idle mixtures you'll need either a ex gas analiser to reset the mixtures or take it to a garage

[2oodoor]

step back and look at it good, make sure your throttle stop screw adj is not holding the throttle open slightley.
check for vaccuum leaks, check your cable that it is not pulling on the shaft at all unless you step on the pedal.
You got the 38, so you have to make sure both thottle plates are closed at idle, that should have been factory set though.

[2ndGenGuy]

There's an adjustment screw on the back of the carb kinda hidden under the choke that is your high idle. You can mess with that as well, since that sets where your idle will be when the car is cold. It should be high, but not that high. Once you get that down a bit, you can then tune the carb after its completely warmed up, and a quick blip of the throttle should kick it down to regular idle.

[A20A1]

Get your idle down first, you wont notice those idle mix screws do much if you're off the idle circuit.















or just get pics up and cal it a day :D

[turabaka]

There's an adjustment screw on the back of the carb kinda hidden under the choke that is your high idle. You can mess with that as well, since that sets where your idle will be when the car is cold. It should be high, but not that high. Once you get that down a bit, you can then tune the carb after its completely warmed up, and a quick blip of the throttle should kick it down to regular idle.

alright thanks man. I'll see if I can get it fixed today. I'll definitely get pictures though. In fact I'll go outside and do that right now!

[turabaka]

well damn. I can't find my dad's camera, and for some reason my computer isn't recognizing my phone when I plug it in, so I can't even give you crappy cell phone picks. I haven't fixed the idle problem yet. I had a small fuel leak to fix first. I'll take another look and see if I can find the camera, but it's not looking good. You might have to hold off another week before I can get it pics for you guys.

[2ndGenGuy]

Can you kick down the high idle by giving the pedal a quick blip?

[turabaka]

yeah that worked. I got the idle down the around 1100 earlier today. I think it was probably from a small vac leak. It idles a little lumpy now, and it idles rich. So tomorrow I'll tune it and get it where it's supposed to be. I took it for a short drive though to see how it was as far as jetting goes and it blew me away. This car has so much more power now. It had a little stumble spot in it after I put the new exhaust on. That's gone now and the thing has so much more power. I floored it in first from a dead stop and all that happened was the tires spinning. I didn't go anywhere. lol

[labeledsk8r]

sweet!!........................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............................now post pics lol

[turabaka]

lol. I told ya man. no camera = no pics. Sorry, I'll see if I can get my cell phone to cooperate, that way you guys can at least have crappy pics to look at.

[MessyHonda]

wow still no pics....please dont pull a cheeseburger....and never post pics...so im not going to get my hopes up

[turabaka]

Sorry to post again without pics, but I have a quick question.

Awhile ago when I put indiglo gauge in my car, courtesy of BITESIZE, I screwed up my temp gauge. It pegs itself all the way at the top after I start the car. I've been too lazy to fix it until now. Can I just replace the temp/fuel section of the gauge cluster or do I have to replace the entire cluster. I'm asking because I really don't want to have to reinstall these indiglos again.

[2oodoor]

dude, set up a photobucket account, it is free, then send your phone pics to it (they give you a address number for your phone) and then you can post pics, easy as that.
I keep getting sad when I look in this thread and nothing, nada...

Awesome to hear you see it was worth the effort !!

[BITESIZE]

Trevor, try taking the needle off and reinstall it. I also have extra pieces for the rear of the gauges too. I'd have to look, I don't remember if I threw them away during the move.

[turabaka]

Trevor, try taking the needle off and reinstall it. I also have extra pieces for the rear of the gauges too. I'd have to look, I don't remember if I threw them away during the move.

yeah. I've tried that a couple times now. The problem is that when I first start the car it's all normal, but as the heats up the gauge goes up and doesn't stop. It just pegs itself all the way up. I know it's the gauge because it started doing it the exact moment I put the gauges back in.

[BITESIZE]

Try doing this. Heat your car up to normal operating temperature.... take the needle off and put it back on.

[turabaka]

That's a good idea, but how do I know what level to put it at?

edit: almost forgot that I had pictures!!
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/turabaka/overall.jpg

the egr blockoff plate I made
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/turabaka/egr_plate.jpg

linkage
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/turabaka/linkage.jpg

and do I need to plug this back into anything? or does it just sit there. edit: I mean the black valve thingy.
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/turabaka/thermovalve.jpg

[2oodoor]

sweet, cleaned up that engine compt.didn't it.... another satisfied customer..lol
thermovalve,black thing, can just sit there.

[turabaka]

sweet, cleaned up that engine compt.didn't it.... another satisfied customer..lol
thermovalve,black thing, can just sit there.

Nice to know. I freaking love this weber. It's way more fun to drive now, and it's easier to get around the engine bay!!!

[BITESIZE]

After the car is warmed up put it at the middle of the guage. "Normal operating temperature"

[turabaka]

alright. Thanks dude.

[2ndGenGuy]

Looks nice! I need to get that throttle cable setup. Mine just uses a crappy cotter pin setup with washers, then a nut tightens the cable down.

[turabaka]

I'm just using the universal throttle linkage with a pack of cable stops. the cable stops are like 2 bucks at autozone. you have to drill one of the holes in the linkage a little larger though.

[labeledsk8r]

looks sweet man :thumbup:

[MessyHonda]

fucking nice....now please come do it to my dx...it needs one really bad

[turabaka]

lol. I have a kinda funny story to go along with this install now. I was test driving my car today with a friend, and we're we're going at a decent clip, maybe 60-70, and suddenly there's a huge bang under the hood, and then what sounded like backfiring. Scared the hell out of me cause I thought I broke something. It turns out that the bolt for the egr on the exhaust manifold had come out and started rattling around on top of the front mount. The bolt was really hot and I didn't have any gloves to handle it with, so I just put it in the back seat and drove home. damn thing sounded like a tractor. :Owned:

[Civic Accord Honda]

LOL^^

and damn man that engine bay looks clean now ! weber FTW
now all the engine bay needs is a LX-i valve cover painted by Bitesize and a good wash then it will look fucking sex!

[BITESIZE]

I just noticed the oil cap that I gave to you!

[turabaka]

I just noticed the oil cap that I gave to you!

yeah. Thanks for giving it to me by the way.

And CAH yes I plan on getting an LX-I valve cover, but mr. bitesize doesn't need to paint it for me. I have a nice paint gun at my house, and I'm thinking of doing a little more than just black or gunmetal, but I haven't really decided on a color yet.

[turabaka]

alright I have another question on my install. What can I get rid of out of the area circled in the pic? Do I actually have to keep all of the vac stuff or can I pull it all off?
http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/turabaka/overall_2.jpg

[BITESIZE]

You should get a different filter housing for that weber. They sell square flat ones, you should look into it, thats what i had my other carb hatch and it looked 10 times better than that one. Also you need all that stuff in the circle.

[russiankid]

Looks good. Now changing the alternator is a breeze.

[cygnus x-1]

You should get a different filter housing for that weber. They sell square flat ones, you should look into it, thats what i had my other carb hatch and it looked 10 times better than that one. Also you need all that stuff in the circle.

Nah, keep the ramflow type filter. Those carbs are made to breathe straight down from the top, not from the side.

C|

[turabaka]

Nah, keep the ramflow type filter. Those carbs are made to breathe straight down from the top, not from the side.

C|

yep. plus now I never have to buy another air filter. Since I can just clean this one.