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View Full Version : Who is currently in the market for an accord turbo manifold?



Accordtheory
01-30-2008, 01:19 PM
So far, the only person who's said they are that I remember right now is mykwikcoupe, and that would be for the b20a, I'm guessing the jdm accord motor? Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone else is interested in a manifold, and if they are, what their setup is and what they would want. The manifold would be sch 10 304 with mild flanges, tig welded and fully argon backpurged, just like how everybody else does it on honda-tech. I'm currently thinking of building a ramhorn, it's a very popular design and should place the turbo high enough up to clear the crossmember. It will not allow you to retain a/c though, and you might have to modify the front motor mount, I don't know. I don't have an a20 or a jdm b20, I have a gsr clone vtec motor in my accord, so I can't use my car for fitment. I'll probably just buy a flange or a few from weirtech, so far, he's the only one I know who makes anything for the a20 or 3g b20, and just put some shit together. Let me know, guys..

2oodoor
01-30-2008, 03:36 PM
I expect I will be eventually, and when I do I want one like you are making, compact and looks good. I need to get my hands on a pair of DCOE webers so you get the hint of the direction I am going. Im gonna need some fancy plumbing work.

knarg
01-30-2008, 05:06 PM
im interested, but thats a bit off as far as my schedule for modifcations/repairs goes

87roach
01-30-2008, 05:21 PM
This is definitely on my list TO-GET, however like the others this is in the future. I wouldn't care about AC or PS, the more space the better.

SQ is the SQUAD
01-30-2008, 06:21 PM
i brought the last remaining a20 flanges from weir tech. i am sure he can make some more, just make sure before you plan to far ahead. last i heard no one was getting there shit from bmc race, so you might want to cross that option out

Accordtheory
01-30-2008, 08:59 PM
So you're trying to do the same shit, huh? I'll have to find some of your pics and check them out. As far as bmc, they were crossed out since day one in my mind. I've never heard a single good thing about them, and I've been showing people links to threads on h-t about people not ever getting their shit from them whenever anyone mentions them for a while. I'll hit up weirtech on h-t and see if he still has any a20 flanges, on one of the threads I read recently he said he had 4 left, we'll see.

A20A1
01-30-2008, 09:50 PM
Really? damn well at least I got my flange
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47396

MessyHonda
01-31-2008, 01:02 AM
i would get one but a turbo in cali is like having a red flag on the car screaming pull me over..

mykwikcoupe
01-31-2008, 05:47 PM
well, I f i sent you my curent mani do you think you could copy the dimensions in a ramhorn setup?

yaboygotit
01-31-2008, 09:22 PM
i am looking for one myself but very cheap and simple

Accordtheory
02-01-2008, 11:24 AM
i am looking for one myself but very cheap and simple

That's what's wrong with you.

Accordtheory
02-01-2008, 11:25 AM
well, I f i sent you my curent mani do you think you could copy the dimensions in a ramhorn setup?
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d107/kwikcoupe/car%20stuff%201/DSCN1172.jpg

Not really, but I could still build it. Without having the turbo in front of me, the sharp angle of your collector throws everything off, since the ramhorn doesn't have an angle like that. Probably just some measurements would be better. I'm still talking to weirtech about the flanges as of now..so the b20a I know jack shit about except it's a dohc jdm motor with 160hp. Does it have the same exhaust flange as the old prelude b20?

And..what were you thinking about price wise? You can pm me if don't want to make it public, but keeping it in the open is actually slightly preferable to me. (I don't need people PMing me trying to get me to make one for $300, or something like that, which I can't afford to do.) I'll be really pissed if my manifold on ebay only goes for that much, and I won't be putting any more on there if it does. Just let me know what you think is fair, we'll go from there.

BITESIZE
02-01-2008, 12:53 PM
I'd purchase a manifold for around $300.

mykwikcoupe
02-01-2008, 01:40 PM
well at this point, Ive never had any of my engines in the car its going into. Because of this I cant really give you any measurments. Im not even sure if that manifold will work other than it did for rob. We both have/had the same setups. As for price lets start some place and build up from there. I can tell you first off Im no welder. I couldnt tell you if its good or bad just that its pretty or ugly. If you could concoct something like the weirtech one with the wastegate off to the side dumping striaght into the exhaust flange, make it polished and pretty so I can show it off to my buds without saying its effective and hacked together. Id be willing to go around 450-500. I realize that this isnt the best situation and fitment would be very hard. If youd need to ship it here to test fit anf I ship it back before final welds go on, Id be cool there.

Basically Ive got about 15k in the car over the last 7 years and final 2 of those the car hasnt left the driveway. I dont mind spending good green on great parts and so far Im very pleased with the work Ive seen. If this sounds good to you let me know. Im in no hurry as there other aspects of the car Im still working out. When you go to order the flanges let me know and Ill send weitrect one of my exhaust flanges. Thats probably best as opposed to finding other fitments.

Im very hypertensious when ot comes to sharp edges and burs. On the manifold, Id need everything porty matched or whatever youd like to call it. I cant stand rough edges or flanges that dont line up. To me on a performance standpoint thats used space in a place its needed. Thanks Mike

Accordtheory
02-01-2008, 06:50 PM
Bitesize..uggghh.

Mykwikcoupe, I could do a real manifold for $500. Just so you know, most people charge $600 and up for these, check out some manufacturers like lovefab, neukin, afi, etc, and of course, at the top of the spectrum, full race, ($1000-1100 for a ramhorn). Basically, what I can currently build will be as good as any other non robotically welded (non f-r) manifold, and it'll be made out of the same materials. It'll look good to the point where you'll be proud to show it off. The welds will go all the way through, and it will be backpurged so the inside of the weld won't be contaminated. As far as the design, the reason why I would do a ramhorn is that design places the flange high enough to allow the turbo to clear the crossmember. The last manifold I built and the one that you linked me to by weirtech both place the turbo flange lower than the head flange, and the turbo is too low.
If we're going to do this, I do need some more info though. I need to know about your motor. Is the flange for it the same as the old prelude b20? Aaron Weir isn't sure.

MessyHonda
02-01-2008, 07:22 PM
we drive 80's econoboxes....not high end cars...so thats why we are cheap....i would only spend like 300 for a manifold that did its job....(clearing the power steering) to bring my 130hp to like 180 with a good tune

Accordtheory
02-01-2008, 08:16 PM
Well..mykwikcoupe says he's got $15k in his car. I have about $8k in mine. As far as the pricing of these components, It's just supply and demand. You get what you pay for. When I can work at a normal basically unskilled job (well, with about a month of training) and make way more than I could selling a basic manifold for $300, without the expenses of the welder, equipment, gas, electricity, the work space, etc, not to mention the skill and knowledge involved, you think I'm going to do it? Fuuck no. And as far as cheaper manifold designs, like the log, I just don't think it's worth it. Why deliberately half ass something? If you're going to do it, and you know better, do it right.
Myself, and a surprising amount of people actually, think it's cool to take a car that old and unassuming, and make it fast by applying modern, albeit somewhat expensive, (although not compared to a newer car) technology. I also also think the 3g is a better built car than the somewhat newer civics, by a discernable margin.

mykwikcoupe
02-02-2008, 08:39 PM
Well..mykwikcoupe says he's got $15k in his car. I have about $8k in mine. As far as the pricing of these components, It's just supply and demand. You get what you pay for. When I can work at a normal basically unskilled job (well, with about a month of training) and make way more than I could selling a basic manifold for $300, without the expenses of the welder, equipment, gas, electricity, the work space, etc, not to mention the skill and knowledge involved, you think I'm going to do it? Fuuck no. And as far as cheaper manifold designs, like the log, I just don't think it's worth it. Why deliberately half ass something? If you're going to do it, and you know better, do it right.
Myself, and a surprising amount of people actually, think it's cool to take a car that old and unassuming, and make it fast by applying modern, albeit somewhat expensive, (although not compared to a newer car) technology. I also also think the 3g is a better built car than the somewhat newer civics, by a discernable margin.

my thoughts exactly actually. I love my old ass accord. The body lines are simple and adoring by all. I feel Ive ivvested alot into my car but yet nothing compared to other on the board. I hope you didnt take my offer as slanderous. That wasnt my intension just an offer. Ill snap some pics and send them to you of what it looks like now. My current manifold clears the ac and PS being placed in the center of the exhaust ports. Id love a aramhorn for looks but am a little worried about hood clearances. Youve seen our engine bays so Im not worried that YOU would have an issue with it by any means. Beause Ive never had my engine in my car, Im wondering if you think you could fit a sharot/mini ram like the one were talking about and I could still keep my full radiator. I think thats why it was kept in its current location? Anywas could you pm me your email so I can send pics. Thanks Mike

bobafett
02-05-2008, 08:18 AM
hey i might be interested in something. either a nice top mount, or a ramhorn that fits would be glorious. I could possibly even send you my ramhorn manifold as a guide so you could make some improvements on fitment. you are right on the turbo is just too low on my current manifold. If it were another 3"-4" higher I would be in good shape lol.

what are your ballpark prices for a topmount or for a real ram horn?

2oodoor
02-05-2008, 09:13 AM
Well..mykwikcoupe says he's got $15k in his car. I have about $8k in mine. As far as the pricing of these components, It's just supply and demand. You get what you pay for. When I can work at a normal basically unskilled job (well, with about a month of training) and make way more than I could selling a basic manifold for $300, without the expenses of the welder, equipment, gas, electricity, the work space, etc, not to mention the skill and knowledge involved, you think I'm going to do it? Fuuck no. And as far as cheaper manifold designs, like the log, I just don't think it's worth it. Why deliberately half ass something? If you're going to do it, and you know better, do it right.
Myself, and a surprising amount of people actually, think it's cool to take a car that old and unassuming, and make it fast by applying modern, albeit somewhat expensive, (although not compared to a newer car) technology. I also also think the 3g is a better built car than the somewhat newer civics, by a discernable margin.

VERY good point on all said there ^^^
For comparison sake, If I could get my hands on a decent Ford Maverick or a two door Plymouth Valient, "econoboxs" true, would I sink 20 grand into one that would blow the doors off late model slowstangs, hell F yes I would... would I get my money back out of it, likely not.

Accordtheory
02-05-2008, 02:22 PM
hey i might be interested in something. either a nice top mount, or a ramhorn that fits would be glorious. I could possibly even send you my ramhorn manifold as a guide so you could make some improvements on fitment. you are right on the turbo is just too low on my current manifold. If it were another 3"-4" higher I would be in good shape lol.

what are your ballpark prices for a topmount or for a real ram horn?

$500 was for a good manifold. I was heavily leaning toward the ramhorn, but I'm not really sure yet what the design should be. You guys should help me out with this, lol. I'm waiting for some pics/info from mykwikcoupe, for all I know he already sent it, but my hotmail was all messed up, and I wasn't getting certain emails, so I don't know if he did or not, but I nothing from him showed up.
Bobafett, here's one of your pics, it looks like your manifold/turbo fits to me.. I mean, it's going to tight for space no matter what. I don't think it would be possible to move the collector up 3", I think the flange, etc would hit the runners coming right off the head, it just wouldn't work. It could be a little higher though. Do you have a front pic without the intercooler in place, so we can see the crossmember clearance?
And what about the p/s pump?
http://a20turbo.com/features/chris/progress/Accord010.jpg

bobafett
02-05-2008, 03:18 PM
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62283

this thread has a couple more pictures. there is not a lot of clearance between the turbo and the crossmember. no more than an inch for either the compressor or turbine side. :)

the fitment is great, but building a dp for it will be tricky at best.

in light of this I feel that a top mount manifold is the best solution. i have no ps or AC, and i have a civic rad now, and a custom upper rad mount, so i have about as much stuff missing as possible. it doesn't get any easier than my car. :)

Accordtheory
02-05-2008, 08:15 PM
Shit..between my current turbo and the crossmember there's less than 1/4"..a little persuasion with a sledgehammer will fix that though.

maybe something like this is still a good idea..lol. I can't believe I built this back in the day, I didn't know shit back then. I could do a lot better version of this now, with my tig, stainless, and decent flanges.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid117/p8276af1826b1d2cd10447f4aaae862b3/f89fc873.jpg

A20A1
02-05-2008, 10:45 PM
maybe something like this is still a good idea..lol. I can't believe I built this back in the day, I didn't know shit back then. I could do a lot better version of this now, with my tig, stainless, and decent flanges.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid117/p8276af1826b1d2cd10447f4aaae862b3/f89fc873.jpg

I always liked your design, I just wondered what diameter the collector should be before the turbo flange and how long the collector should be and if any tapering is needed or would help.

Were you the one with the Water to air cooler or did you not run a IC for the whole time you had this setup?

Accordtheory
02-06-2008, 10:56 AM
The diameter of the tube leading to the turbo flange from the collector should match the flange, or be a little smaller. Tapering of that tube, if that's what you mean, would not be advantageous, and it would be rather difficult in this case, as it would be around a radius. You just cut the collector to match the diameter of that tube. As far as the ideal taper/angle of the collector itself, that is a really complex thing, I don't exactly know what what be best. I would just do what fit well and wasn't too extreme in either length or shortness. Most people supposedly build collectors about 4-5" long, 11-14 degree cuts. I like the shorter collectors a little better myself.
As far as the intercooler, I had an air/liquid setup I modified from a gmc syclone/typhoon, I actually still have it, it's just collecting dust.

Accordtheory
02-06-2008, 11:08 AM
the fitment is great, but building a dp for it will be tricky at best.

in light of this I feel that a top mount manifold is the best solution. i have no ps or AC

Well, that would work for your requirements, but the typical top mount interferes with the p/s by placing the turbo compressor right where the pump normally sits. A lot of people on here have said they want to keep their p/s, so I would prefer to come up with a design that could accomodate that. That's actually why I posted up my old pic. Instead of the downpipe curving down from the driver's side, my old setup curved down the other way. I had a/c and p/s with that setup.

Accordtheory
02-09-2008, 01:42 PM
I found a pic of this manifold on here, it's sort of similar to my old one. Not equal length, but whatever.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/sinnedone/Picture118.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid117/p8276af1826b1d2cd10447f4aaae862b3/f89fc873.jpg

MessyHonda
02-09-2008, 07:44 PM
yup...i need to get some serious power now....my car needs more power....any way to make the guayanabo manifold?

Accordtheory
02-09-2008, 08:21 PM
That's basically the idea that I'm going for, except more equal length. But like I said, not for $300.

MessyHonda
02-09-2008, 08:59 PM
That's basically the idea that I'm going for, except more equal length. But like I said, not for $300.


yeah i would pay like 600 for that manifold..im already obd1 so im halfway there

Accordtheory
02-09-2008, 09:09 PM
well, that is certainly a contrast to your previous posts..
But anyway, one of these will be coming up. I already have most of the parts for it, and I just ordered the flange from weirtech. So in about a week and a half.

MessyHonda
02-09-2008, 09:12 PM
well, you said $300 earlier..
But anyway, one of these will be coming up. I already have most of the parts for it, and I just ordered the flange from weirtech. So in about a week and a half.


yes yes i did say 300 for a run of the mill manifold...i ment like a log one..not a whole lot of engenering just something that would clear the rad and front mount

Accordtheory
02-09-2008, 09:15 PM
So what are you going to do about that horrible california smog testing bs? I'm guessing you know someone?

MessyHonda
02-09-2008, 09:21 PM
So what are you going to do about that horrible california smog testing bs? I'm guessing you know someone?


yes i just got my registration paper yesterday...its right next to me...and i need damn smog...im screwed no mater what.

Accordtheory
02-10-2008, 10:31 AM
Well, as they say, money talks. I got caught for expired registration due to my inability to pass smog, $880. I should have tried harder, I didn't realize how much of a pain that ordeal would become. You're in the sf bay area? I was in Woodland, near Sac, when I got caught. You should be able to get it done for about $300 in cash, from what I always heard. It's supposedly getting tougher though, they do random sting ops to see if they can get shops to do illegal shit. I'd almost recommend walking in smoking a fat blunt cheech & chong style so they know you're not 5.0. Or at least blaze out the parking lot right in front of them..

MessyHonda
02-10-2008, 11:42 PM
Well, as they say, money talks. I got caught for expired registration due to my inability to pass smog, $880. I should have tried harder, I didn't realize how much of a pain that ordeal would become. You're in the sf bay area? I was in Woodland, near Sac, when I got caught. You should be able to get it done for about $300 in cash, from what I always heard. It's supposedly getting tougher though, they do random sting ops to see if they can get shops to do illegal shit. I'd almost recommend walking in smoking a fat blunt cheech & chong style so they know you're not 5.0. Or at least blaze out the parking lot right in front of them..



thanks man...the guy said he might fail me the first time cuz they need to fail a certain % of cars....i got long hair...and ima look like a grease monkey....they should not be worried...ima check them out after i get paid.

hondaman1986
02-28-2008, 04:50 PM
hey boba where did you buy you half rad and how much did that set you back cause im trying to find one for my turbo project

Accordtheory
02-28-2008, 05:40 PM
not sure about bobafett, his might be nicer than mine, but I just got my civic radiator on egay..$70, aluminum core a little thicker than stock, not bad. No overheating, I used to beat on my old turbo setup pretty hard, in the hot california summer. Alot of stuff like that on ebay is total garbage though, like the a/c condenser for my truck, so consider yourself forewarned..

Accordtheory
02-28-2008, 05:47 PM
A little comparison between guaynabo's and mine..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v499/sinnedone/Picture118.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_52_full.jpg

BITESIZE
02-28-2008, 05:58 PM
Is that painted or ceramic?

Accordtheory
02-28-2008, 06:33 PM
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_57_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_58_full.jpg
Guess I should have cleaned the rest of the duct tape off first..left over from backpurging
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_59_full.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_60_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/814000-814999/814838_61_full.jpg

bobafett
02-28-2008, 06:35 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270198445860

this is the part i bought. just a 2" aluminum ebay rad. :) cost $90 shipped wasn't a 'bolt in' but close enough considering all the other shit i have done to the car.

lostforawhile
03-19-2009, 05:53 PM
Well, that would work for your requirements, but the typical top mount interferes with the p/s by placing the turbo compressor right where the pump normally sits. A lot of people on here have said they want to keep their p/s, so I would prefer to come up with a design that could accomodate that. That's actually why I posted up my old pic. Instead of the downpipe curving down from the driver's side, my old setup curved down the other way. I had a/c and p/s with that setup. if you have ditched the ac, piece of cake to move something like that to the old ac brackets. if you can put an alternator there,you can put a PS pump there. mine is in the stock location, but i cut the steel ends off of the rubber hose, and changed them to steel an fittings. they are tig welded right on to the metal parts that attach to the pump. once you do this,and tig weld a fitting on the metal tube at the opposite end, you use aeroquip PS hose and steel high pressure fittings. this allows you to also route the hose anywhere you want. the aeroquip PS hose is also much safer then the old factory hose,and more heat resistant.