whtie smoke driving me crazy looking for solution

[fmh]

Hi I have big problem with my car is an 1989 accord lx. it has 228.000 miles and there is white smoke coming from the tailpipe at first it was only at start up but now it wont stop it smokes all the time. I think its the head gadsket but not sure.
I cheked the coolant for oil and the oil for coolant and nothing it looks normal. the car also overheated
the car looses coolant but there are no visible leaks. it also smell like coolant when the car is idle. I think is the head gasket but not sure
I would apriciate any info please

[russiankid]

Sounds like the head gasket to me.

[Civic Accord Honda]

Sounds like the head gasket to me.
word

[forrest89sei]

Head Gasket FOR SURE

[fmh]

thats whar I thugh but I wnated some ifno to make sure Im gone tkae the head off next week but thanks guys for all help

[88Accord-DX]

Sounds like coolant burning out the tail pipe. (head gasket)

If you want sure info., need one of these coolant pressure testers. They work great.


http://i5.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/a4/7e/43ac_1.JPG

[Dr_Snooz]

Sounds like coolant burning out the tail pipe. (head gasket)

If you want sure info., need one of these coolant pressure testers. They work great.


Um. Where might one find one of these? I'm interested.

[88Accord-DX]

Um. Where might one find one of these? I'm interested.

Probably your best bet is to look on ebay/ motor under a search ' pressure tester'. That pic is a Cornwell one, but some other good ones are Matco RPT101, Snap-On SVTS262
Also a Stant 12270 & Mityvac can be ordered from a Napa auto parts store. All these pressure testers aren't cheap new. Napa should be able to get Stant 12270 for little over $100. Ebay is your best bet for decent priced one.

Here's a link.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/?from=R40&satitle=pressure+tester

[Dr_Snooz]

I wonder if you can rent those somewhere? It's not really something you'd need everyday.

[labeledsk8r]

be sure to change your carb gaskets when you do the head gasket... the carb gasket can rip and it can suck coolent in from this point... if you do a compresion test and it comes back fine and doesnt show the other signs of a head gasket.. then its most likely the carb gasket, or it could be a combo of both

[Blkblurr]

You may need to check the head for warping. You said it over heated and normally when that happens and you have a blown gasket, it's from the warped head.

[fmh]

it's the head gasket for sure there was some green in the oil when I opened the valve cover,
Im going to start working on the car on satruday when vacation starts
im will alsoo change all gasket and seal on the

another question how hard is to change the piston rings because i might as well do it if Im allready taking the head of

[w261w261]

There is a liquid that might fix the blown head gasket, if the head isn't too warped. You have to completely -very completely- flush all the coolant out of the system. Then you put in a bottle of this stuff. I fixed a Volvo using it...it's still cooking well 10,000 miles later. A lot simpler than removing the head etc. You might want to try it first.

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=22005

[88Accord-DX]

another question how hard is to change the piston rings because i might as well do it if Im allready taking the head of

Your better off pulling the engine out & putting it on a stand for ring replacement. But, with the engine in the car, you'll need to pull the exhaust & oil pan off. Good time to replace the main & rod bearings too.
Some tools needed will be, ring compressor, glaze breaker, drill, feeler gauges, telescoping gauge, micrometer, plasti-gauge, torque wrench. Some measurements (tolerances) need to be checked for a good semi-rebuild.

[fmh]

sound like a lot of work for a home mechanic and I need to pass emission very soon

[greentee76]

Make sure you take the head in to the machine shop and have it checked while you have it off. I had this same problem just recently. Figured it was just the gasket. Found the head warped a little when I took it off. Sent it in to be flattened and had them pressure test it while it was there. Turned out to have about a 5 inch crack in the head. It was the best 40$ I ever spent as I would have still had a problem if I had put back together without checking it. I lucked out and found a head for 100$ from a salvage yard (which of course I sent in to have checked before I installed;) )

[Ichiban]

Your better off pulling the engine out & putting it on a stand for ring replacement. But, with the engine in the car, you'll need to pull the exhaust & oil pan off. Good time to replace the main & rod bearings too.
Some tools needed will be, ring compressor, glaze breaker, drill, feeler gauges, telescoping gauge, micrometer, plasti-gauge, torque wrench. Some measurements (tolerances) need to be checked for a good semi-rebuild.

You will also want to get a decent metric tap set, or buy the 2 or three taps you'll need to chase the head bolt and main bearing threads. A slide hammer is good for pulling frost plugs out (replace these!!) and a small parts washer is great for, well, cleaning parts. Everything must be spotlessly clean before assembly, make sure the head and block are taken to a shop to be hot tanked. Remove all the oil gallery and frost plugs before it goes, and blow the oil galleries out with solvent and air before you put it together.