Idling/EGR/?

[zAFW]

So.. I've almost got my accord workin' the way I want it to. The thing is I still have problems and I'm kind of out of ideas. Help? Suggestions?

When I first start my car it runs around 1000RPM, then it likes to idle around 800-900ish RPM. As soon as I push the brakes, and shift to reserve the RPM drops down to 600-700RPMs causing the car to shake. After going 60MPH down an empty road and stop the car THEN will it start to idle around 900RPM. (Does that mean I have to warm up the car everytime I start the car??)

Though it gets worse, I'm not sure what is going on inside the engine because it feels like its misfiring or something. I hear like a popping sound ocassionally, (which is why I'm thinking it's misfiring?) I hate this popping sound, I can even feel it through my foot when I'm either braking or accelerating. It's annoying as stepping on a rock or something. I always thought it was my tires or suspension just being like crap.

So I start the car and put my hand on the engine block, well on the cap so I don't burn myself. :P But anyway, I put my hand and I definately feel something unusual. So something is going on.

Now more than ever I'm getting 12 blinks from the ECU. It's the EGR, Just when I finally went through the trouble of fixing broken off vacuum connectors and plugging them in it still doesn't work properly I guess.

I think the EGR and the idling is connected in someway but I'm just lost. Oh and last question, (I'm thinking there isn't enough oil) how much oil is suppose to show up on the oil dip stick? Is it suppose to reach the first dot or the second dot? Maybe I'm running around with little oil *gasp*

Then I gotta fix the fuel sensor, it never tells me that I'm nearly empty. D: I also have to fix the side door sensor. Turns out the black switch just doesn't spring all the way back. Then I'm going to replace the carpet, it's somewhat torn. So yeah... Still lots of things to do before I start thinking about CAI's and header/exhuast and stuff. :p Anyway, comments/questions/suggestions appreciated.

[coope]

i always let mine warm up even in the summer time or it runs funny

[russiankid]

If the diaphragm doesn't hold vacuum it creates a vacuum leak. I would look into either replacing the EGR or try cleaning it out.

I know i had rough idle, so i just capped mine off and never had a problem, but i also have a carb.

[zAFW]

If the diaphragm doesn't hold vacuum it creates a vacuum leak. I would look into either replacing the EGR or try cleaning it out.

I know i had rough idle, so i just capped mine off and never had a problem, but i also have a carb.

Alright, I'll have to check that out, cause that blinking gets annoying. I automatically assume my car runs like crap as soon as I see that even if it still runs the same. I guess I should mention that I have an FI.

So far I've bought & installed a MSD Blaster 2 Coil, and I also upgraded the grounding (2 out of 3) cables on my car. I've managed to do all these thanks to those HowTo's. Thanks, Shepard79, GDGuy11B, and everyone else involved. :)

[evil88accordLX]

[QUOTE=zAFW;862090]Oh and last question, (I'm thinking there isn't enough oil) how much oil is suppose to show up on the oil dip stick? Is it suppose to reach the first dot or the second dot? Maybe I'm running around with little oil *gasp* QUOTE]

the dots on your dipstick represent max. capacity and min. capacity. your oil level ideally should remain right at the top dot. if you have a leak and have to continually monitor your oil, you shouldnt let it drop down past the bottom dot. im not sure how much oil is the variable between the two dots, but i wouldnt guess its more than a quart.

[zAFW]

Alright.. I won't make another thread about the same problem so I'll add on to this.

EGR Valve.

I'm still having this problem. I've tested the EGR valve with a hand vacuum thing, and turns out that it's fully functional.

I figured I should check out the exhaust, placed a rag and felt the air flowing fine, so really I don't know where else to check.

I'm thinkin' the MAP sensor might be the cause, I don't know. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Here's another thing, whenever the red light pops up the RPMs are higher than usual. I have it set to idle at 1k but when the red light is on it idles around 1.2/1.3k.

Quick question, would using 20w50 oil affect acceleration slightly?

Thanks guys for your help! :)

[nfs480]

My EGR valve passed all of the diagnostics that were in the shop manual but it still gave me problems. I finally just went ahead and replaced the EGR valve and the check engine light went away. I still don't know why it passed the test when it wasn't working properly.

[zAFW]

My EGR valve passed all of the diagnostics that were in the shop manual but it still gave me problems. I finally just went ahead and replaced the EGR valve and the check engine light went away. I still don't know why it passed the test when it wasn't working properly.

Weird.. Say, how did you replace the EGR? What did you have to move in order to have access to it? I've tried taking the EGR off at one time because I was trying to go ahead and replace the valve too but the bolt near the throttle is hard to take off. I've broken a 12mm socket (as well as the adapter thing) and bent like two wrenches because of it haha and the thing is starting to strip so.. I don't know what to do with it.

[nfs480]

Weird.. Say, how did you replace the EGR? What did you have to move in order to have access to it? I've tried taking the EGR off at one time because I was trying to go ahead and replace the valve too but the bolt near the throttle is hard to take off. I've broken a 12mm socket (as well as the adapter thing) and bent like two wrenches because of it haha and the thing is starting to strip so.. I don't know what to do with it.

Hahaha, I know exactly what you mean. I spent like 4 hours trying to figure it out. I ended up buying a joint for my ratchet to get in there.

EDIT: If you can't get it off I think a mechanic would charge you like $50 if you provided the part.

[Dr_Snooz]

You might want to check your timing too. Sounds like it might not be quite right if you're getting a lot of misfires. Might be time for a good tune-up too.

I'd just take the oil can and a good contact cleaner after that door sensor. Not necessarily in that order.

[zAFW]

Alright guys, here's an update to all this. I'm still having the problem and I need some advice on where to look.

So then during auto class, friend and I took off that EGR valve, vis-crisps(sp?) did the trick. The EGR was pretty dirty, so I cleaned it with a wire brush, carb cleaner and then sanded down the old gasket off. Oh yeah, a guy there told me you can also check the EGR by hand. He pushed something in and had his finger on that hole where #16 goes and it held. Told me its good, so all in all the EGR is still good, the test only confirmed what my mechanic friend said, so I placed it in the car, tighten it.

At first I thought it was good, the car felt better maybe its just in my head but man I just LOVE how the car felt.

I've checked out many cars at an auto auction, just trying out all the hondas and toyotas thinking about buying another car but nothing felt right like my LXi. Nothing. So instead of buying a newer Honda I'll just take care of my LXi and stuff but anyways all that is off topic.

The idling and everything was perfect, but it wasn't until later that day the light came back on as well as the abnormal idling. Whenever that light comes on the car idles even higher than normal. It seems to happen whenever the engine is warm, when its cold it runs pretty good, usually in the mornings. During the day and night the light tends to come on.

Could it be the temp sensor?

The thing is though the car doesn't get hotter than usual, the temp gauge shows half-way like it should. I recently flushed the coolant and added new coolant, I also loosen that bolt and bled the coolant.

Today, I just replaced part of the map sensors. I grabbed an 89' LXi Map sensor box and took it home. Later I found out that its actually very different on the inside. Oops! lol No matter though, I replaced that 5v Map sensor thing and the little tiny air filters, it made a huge difference. Whenever the A/C is on he car doesn't shake as bad. So yeah.. sorry if I'm slightly off topic here n there.

To sum it up.

Checked EGR = Good.
Cleaned EGR inside-out.
Replaced Sensors the MAP box.
Flushed and bled coolant.

Red light STILL on when Engine is warm. What should I check out next?

Do you think the muffler or something can affect the EGR? To me it sounds like the muffler is clogged, theres a loud gush nose coming from the rear passenger wheel. Probably an exhaust leak I dunno... I placed my hand on the tail pipe in order to feel any air going and I did so I'm stumped..

I was thinking about buying hi-flow cat/muffler/short ram intake and stuff so that it can improve performance.

Dr. Snooz: I'll have to check the timing out.

As for a tune-up the car already has been tuned up. Oil change/ Filter, Fuel filter, air filter, new brakes.

I need to flush the transmission and replace the timing belt. Plan to do it this Saturday, and hopefully something good happens. Do you know how many quarts I need? Not sure if I need 2 or 6 qt?

I really want this car to work like its suppose to, cause I know once it does it kicks ass!

[nfs480]

As I said before, my EGR system passed all the test and my mechanic was 100% sure it was working. I replaced it and now the light is gone and it runs fine. He even cleaned it and that didn't solve the problem either. From what i've heard the sensor inside of the EGR valve itself can go bad and cause the light to come on and the only way to replace the sensor is to replace the valve because it is all one unit.

[zAFW]

That's what I was thinking since I remembered your advice but everyone else insisted that its still good. :P llol
I'll have to redo it again. Bleh.

[nfs480]

That's what I was thinking since I remembered your advice but everyone else insisted that its still good. :P llol
I'll have to redo it again. Bleh.

I'd say before you do anything else major, if no diagnostic comes up with anything i'd just go ahead and replace the valve. Who knows, you might end up saving money that way. Me, I let my mechanic go ahead and replace two other parts before finally giving up and replacing the valve. Makes me wish i'd just done the valve the first time.

[zAFW]

Ouch. Just now my car is at the auto shop.

I was force to stop driving when something was starting to burn. Grey smoke started to come out under dashboard around the fuse area. You know, where the Main Relay and all that stuff is at? Yeah... now I'm car-less for who knows how long. :/ I hope its nothing serious and that I can get things running again in no time.

[nfs480]

That sucks man, hope you get it running again quick.

[zAFW]

I'd say before you do anything else major, if no diagnostic comes up with anything i'd just go ahead and replace the valve. Who knows, you might end up saving money that way. Me, I let my mechanic go ahead and replace two other parts before finally giving up and replacing the valve. Makes me wish i'd just done the valve the first time.

Got my car back, live wire loose, grounded onto something and burnt. While my car was looked at, I had someone swap the valve for me. Still getting that EGR light. What else should I do?

It sounds like I have to get a new ECU or something. Meh. Any other suggestions?

[nfs480]

One of the pieces that my mechanic replaced while trying to get the light to go away (before replacing the valve itself) was the EGR Control Solenoid. It's located in the black box in the top left of the engine compartment. Other than that if you've already cleaned the system I suppose maybe it could be either faulty wiring or a vacuum leak. Other than that the only thing I can think of is a bad ECU.

EDIT: Did you replace the valve with a Genuine Honda EGR valve or an aftermarket valve?

[Dr_Snooz]

You might check the EGR ports in the intake manifold. I haven't seen for myself, but my mechanic told me those passages can get cruddied up and cause problems. Couldn't tell you how to clean it, but it's worth checking.

[zAFW]

One of the pieces that my mechanic replaced while trying to get the light to go away (before replacing the valve itself) was the EGR Control Solenoid. It's located in the black box in the top left of the engine compartment. Other than that if you've already cleaned the system I suppose maybe it could be either faulty wiring or a vacuum leak. Other than that the only thing I can think of is a bad ECU.

EDIT: Did you replace the valve with a Genuine Honda EGR valve or an aftermarket valve?

Oooh, you know after hours of searchin' I came across an article moments that mentioned about that. I'll have to check that out. I think I've narrowed it down pretty much that Solenoid and the ECU.

Is the solenoid that orange little thing in the black box? I've seen that. lol I actually have one but it goes to a '89 LXi and it looks different, do you think I can use that or should I go back to the JY and find the same year as mine?

I hate trying to look for a car thats like mine there, it's like for every 10 carb'd accords there's only 1 FI. lol but that's besides the point. Alright thanks! Oh and as far as I know I would think its a Genuine Honda EGR because I pulled it off another Honda out in the JY. The car had 140k miles on it I think.

[nfs480]

Well, if it's a junk yard part it could be that the replacement is defective too (I replaced mine with a brand new Honda part). As for the solenoid, my mechanic replaced that, not me, so I actually do not know which part it is.