headlight amperage draw

[newaccorddriver]

for my wire tuck i am going to have to extend quite a few wires. i am currently trying to figure out how much amperage the headlights will be drawing on a worst case scenario so i will be able to size up the wiring accordingly. i currently have some 12 gauge wiring that i intended to use, but i am unsure of whether or not this will work. does anyone know if 12 gauge wiring iwll work for lengthening the headlight wires?

[forrest89sei]

for my wire tuck i am going to have to extend quite a few wires. i am currently trying to figure out how much amperage the headlights will be drawing on a worst case scenario so i will be able to size up the wiring accordingly. i currently have some 12 gauge wiring that i intended to use, but i am unsure of whether or not this will work. does anyone know if 12 gauge wiring iwll work for lengthening the headlight wires?

I don't know the draw, but i do know the stock is like 20-18 Gauge, so I'd think 12 is plenty

[Hazwan]

Yes, 12 gauge will work just fine.

As for the headlight amperage I'd say around 5A for typical 55/66W

[newaccorddriver]

I don't know the draw, but i do know the stock is like 20-18 Gauge, so I'd think 12 is plenty


i think your referring to the parking lamps. but ya, 12 gauge should be plenty more then enough

[newaccorddriver]

Yes, 12 gauge will work just fine.

As for the headlight amperage I'd say around 5A for typical 55/66W

how did you come up with the 5A number? dont the headlights require something like 25-30A to run?

[Demon1024]

i thought it was 8 low 15 high beam
i think 12 is what i used on my head lights when i rewired them. i remember it was the biggest wire you could get in the walmart automotive electric section. The only problem i ever had was the damn switch but i used a new one not the stock.

[newaccorddriver]

out of curiosity, would it make sense to use 2 strands of 12 gauge wiring if the headlights use up alot of power? not sure if it makes sense, but instead of flowing power through 1 large wire, your flowing it through 2 smaller ones.

[MessyHonda]

i would not recomend 2 small wires....might send it back and fry something....one large wire will be better. i remember changing my high beam light fuse and it was only like 15 amps

[Hazwan]

how did you come up with the 5A number? dont the headlights require something like 25-30A to run?

I've forgotten how to convert from Watts to Amps, but I'll get back to you later.

And most cars only have up to 15A fuse for the headlight circuit anyway.

Edit: ah here you go: http://www.powerstream.com/Amps-Watts.htm. According to that its 4.58A :)

[newaccorddriver]

I've forgotten how to convert from Watts to Amps, but I'll get back to you later.

And most cars only have up to 15A fuse for the headlight circuit anyway.

Edit: ah here you go: http://www.powerstream.com/Amps-Watts.htm. According to that its 4.58A :)


thanks for the information:cheers:

[Demon1024]

i did mine with four 12 gauge wires to run the fans,dash,running lights,lows/highs. only problem was the switch would get hot after a while but i think that was because it was a cheap switch

[2oodoor]

Solder those connections, do not rely on butt splice for lights. Also seal them good, There are some expensive butt splices available though that work real good and have bulit in shrink tubing on both ends.
The amp draw is going to be very close to what fuse size they put in for the circuit. 15 amp for high beams and 10 for low, if it were any more of a sustained draw it would pop the fuse... remember light filiaments are merely a direct "controled by the design" short circuit.

[newaccorddriver]

i did mine with four 12 gauge wires to run the fans,dash,running lights,lows/highs. only problem was the switch would get hot after a while but i think that was because it was a cheap switch

are you referring to the combination switch that controls the headlights?

i find it odd that it would get hot after a while cause i figured they would have to withstand all the current constantly

[newaccorddriver]

Solder those connections, do not rely on butt splice for lights. Also seal them good, There are some expensive butt splices available though that work real good and have bulit in shrink tubing on both ends.
The amp draw is going to be very close to what fuse size they put in for the circuit. 15 amp for high beams and 10 for low, if it were any more of a sustained draw it would pop the fuse... remember light filiaments are merely a direct "controled by the design" short circuit.

im soldering all my connections and heat shrinking them when im done, along with a little bit of electrical tape to keep it all clean and a little sound of mind.

so far ive only done the headlight motor, and that was a major PITA due to space limitations and such, but i did notice that the wiring i used for that(16g) was quite a bit thicker then the wiring that honda used(18g). so hopefully that is perfectly fine.

[Demon1024]

are you referring to the combination switch that controls the headlights?

i find it odd that it would get hot after a while cause i figured they would have to withstand all the current constantly

No a cheap switch i bought. i ran mine completely independent of the original system made them brighter with the less resistance

[newaccorddriver]

No a cheap switch i bought. i ran mine completely independent of the original system made them brighter with the less resistance


that makes more sense now. i didnt think honda would use cheap parts for a part that alot of people would be using during the night.

[2oodoor]

yep but the headlight circuit on these cars does leave a lot to be desired.... if you are worried about current draw, use relays up front and run an extra hot wire **{ using the original switch to energize the relay,} **use a good fat wire from the battery or power distribution box to the relay for juice out to the lights.

[Blkblurr]

65watts to amps is as follows 65 watts / 13.6 volts = 4.77 amps.