Finally doing my clutch

[79cord]

Hi,
FINALLY back home from a spell working in Germany & after much avoidance I'm finally replacing the clutch on my '79 Accord...after almost 29years & 252,727 km.
It was still managing in the flat areas where I live & work but would slip a bit in traffic light grand-prix or taking it to the hillier areas around my parents... & even month's ago my brother couldn't drive it cleanly trying to drive it as he did his archaic '79 Toyota Corona (which has some torque, minimal power & absolutely futile to look for more through revs).

Anyway everythings out since I also had to extract the remains of a broken alternator bracket bolt from the engine block which would have been near impossible in the car, & thankfully came out without drama (possibly aided by the slight cam-cover & cap oil leak I've been ignoring [though it left a mess to clean-up...I'd completely forgotten I'd polished my gearbox when the engine was out several years ago to simplify panel repairs]).

& while I'm at it I was also going get the radiator repaired for a gradual leak it has been suffering although that has turned to be more serious (& expensive to repair) than expected. Leading me to investigate my stock of left-over spares offered to me last year, unfortunately comprising a poor-looking non-original replacement -damaged, previously-repaired & it doesn"t even incorporate Hondas drainage tap at the bottom.
Or an '81 Accord radiator - ever noticed '81 radiator is actually narrower than previous Accords with completely revised mounting concept.
Or I plunder my unused "spare" Accords (Overworn 5-spd burgandy '79 Hatch or Abandoned, badly repaired auto beige '79 hatch) of which will probably grab the Auto radiator even though that includes auto trans cooling pipes since I'd rather leave the other car complete.
But I will investigate all the local wreakers for an alternative (not looking likely but I think I'll pick up some '80 Prelude wheelcaps I've now spotted as a result & keep looking for correct trim rings & beige 1st gen Integra seats -even though I'm also buying some black '90 CR-X seats from a friend).

Anyway I'm currently awaiting the machining of my flywheel & thought replacing rear main bearing seal might be in order while it's accessible -even though it's not leaking & have ordered one... but I've never removed one before & want to take it along to make sure I get the right bit... any ideas how to get it out ?

Was also going to get around to doing the frt ball-joint I bought for it several months ago... but have been provided the wrong part (again - I'd already returned one) this one looking more like a '80 Prelude/Civic item.



& in other news have already got myself sunburned with the end of summer here whilst generally playing around with, oil changing & general investigation of my two latest rusty disasters... 1971 Honda Z360 coupe's aircooled, last registered 1980 & 1984 respectively; one with a stuffed(crankshaft) '70(?) N600 motor.

[MessyHonda]

cool what clutch did you go with?


remember to change the rear main seal while you are at it.

[2ndGenGuy]

Man, that is a LONG time to go without replacing the clutch! It's lasted a good long time! Holy crap! It sounds like you really have a lot of work ahead of you, but you'll have it running nice and fresh soon!

To get that main seal out, I used a corkscrew, for opening a wine bottle... You can kinda hook it into the seal, twist it in a bit deeper and then you've got a nice handle to pull it out.

Man you really need to post more pics! I wanna see more of the Z360, your Accords, Preludes and S-car! Keep us posted on your progress!

[79cord]

Well it's almost all togeather again, just radiator & fluids & bonnet & bumper & adjustments to go.
Refittment naturally more difficult than removal with plently of wriggling about required to get driveshafts back into transaxle. Even had to unbolt horn for wriggle room & scratched paint on sump with exhaust... The engine paint I'd once applied to the engine block had mostly washed away anyway & not energetic enough to replace it at the moment (brush-on in car later ?).

Was going to straighten frt bumper as well but its coachbolts are naturally turning in their holes so I'll have to slot the threaded end to fit screwdriver to restrain it whist I undo their nuts...Maybe another time.. Like touching up all the little stone-chips & scrapes I also need to get around to.

I didn't research clutches really & just got a common aftermarket clutch kit (clutch plate, pressure plate & release bearing) from local suppliers PBR, an old name & longtime supplier to manufacturers. Nothing special.
Local parts suppliers listed two different rear mainbearing seals for the '79 Accords $25 or $35, my Prelude partsbook suggesting both were the same dimensions but the cheaper one was only used for the first few months while the 2nd was used through untill around mid '80 when Honda added 2mm to the Dia. of the crankshaft when going from M10 to M12 flywheel bolts! The next one carried through into the 2nd gen EL/EK engines. My car originally had the later one so I had to return the other once I'd pulled the original from its crevice with a screwdriver.

Must get around to getting myself a dedicated photo-hosting spot.

Just got carried away & purchased an '80 Prelude steel wheel & chrome center caps as well since my parts car only came with 3 & I thought they looked more interesting than the proper '81 wheels for the Prelude, (Dark grey rims with 7 holes & stainless center covers compared to plain silver 7-hole of a different design & black plastic center covers), but thats 4x100 PCD & still only 13x4.5" so not exactly 1st gen Accord topic.

[2ndGenGuy]

My 1g Accord got a regular old clutch too. Someone on here just happened to be selling a brand new Exedy OEM kit for $45 US at the same time I was looking to buy one. How could I pass it up. Thought it was interesting that the kit came with a pilot bearing though. Must mean that clutch fits a variety of cars. Any idea which ones use a pilot bearing?

Good news with having a 5-speed is that there is much MORE wiggle room than the automatics seem to have. Those autos are huge and heavy. I was glad to ditch mine and put that manual trans in, dispite it adding months of time to getting my car running, since I had to keep looking for more bits and pieces to get everything together.

Curious about those wheels now that you mentioned them. You should post some pics. Flickr is a great place to host images. I've got a small gallery up there with plenty of old-school Honda goodness.

[w261w261]

I'm glad you haven't had a problem with the new rear main seal leaking. My mechanic put in an aftermarket product which leaked, then put in another one, which (surprise!) leaked also. After I told him to visit the Honda dealer for the 3rd try the Honda part worked fine. 3 times he had to drop the tranny.....

[79cord]

All seems well, wouldn't want to have to redo it either.
Just want to bleed the brakes... & still have to get another lower-ball joint & replace.

Some pictures eventually though they don't really show clutch work.

Also edited previous note since I realized I'd got some details wrong.

[79cord]

Oh, another thing I though interesting enough to mention.

The Factory workshop manual shows the bonnet of a '79 American/Japanese spec, sedan with its tall grille allowing the bonnet hinges to be unbolted through the grill openings without removing the grille. I'd thought that clever but couldn't recall ever being able to do it....You can't with the thinner grille hatchbacks & most other sedans got!

But there is a better way.

A few years ago I noticed the early Accord ('76-78) featured a split-pin allowing their bonnet hinge-pins, & thus bonnets to be removed without unbolting their mountings & disturbing alignment... So if you see an otherwise useless early bonnet you might want its hinge pins after you cut off your otherwise un-removeable '79-81 hinge-pins....

& can anyone else confirm that the pre '79 Accords didn't have the radiator drain tap of the later models.

Win some, lose some.

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh, another thing I though interesting enough to mention.

The Factory workshop manual shows the bonnet of a '79 American/Japanese spec, sedan with its tall grille allowing the bonnet hinges to be unbolted through the grill openings without removing the grille. I'd thought that clever but couldn't recall ever being able to do it....You can't with the thinner grille hatchbacks & most other sedans got!

But there is a better way.

A few years ago I noticed the early Accord ('76-78) featured a split-pin allowing their bonnet hinge-pins, & thus bonnets to be removed without unbolting their mountings & disturbing alignment... So if you see an otherwise useless early bonnet you might want its hinge pins after you cut off your otherwise un-removeable '79-81 hinge-pins....

& can anyone else confirm that the pre '79 Accords didn't have the radiator drain tap of the later models.

Win some, lose some.

Supposedly you're supposed to be able to remove the hood on the 81 Accords also without removing the grille. There are gaps in the grille and you can ALMOST get a tool in there, but it's just not quite enough. I still gotta pop the grille out on my car, and yeah there is no removing the hinge pins for me either. Oh well.

If I ever see another 1g Accord at the wrecking yard, I'll keep that in mind. When I first got my 1g, I found about 3 other 1g Accords at various wrecking yards around my area. Now they're all gone, none left at all... :-/

[79cord]

OK, Picture time...
(& if I leave out any "n"s the keyboards stuffed!)

engine out
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2051000-2051999/2051977_97_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2051000-2051999/2051977_102_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2051000-2051999/2051977_103_full.jpg

& while it's out... detail shots of custom Battery tray
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2051000-2051999/2051977_100_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2051000-2051999/2051977_99_full.jpg
compared to old
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/2051000-2051999/2051977_101_full.jpg


& Prelude wheel desigs
1980
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2055000-2055999/2055109_43_full.jpg
1981 (with wrong trim rings)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2055000-2055999/2055109_37_full.jpg


Oh & I forgot to mention I also removed my cowl grille to check plenum for rust after someone mentioned rust potential there... & my Preludes had rust there.
Thankfully all was well though I certainly removed enough wet leaves from the area to prove it deserved a regular clean out !
& I'd add some seam-seal & extra paint along the inside of the weld flange between the lower firewall & cowl panel.

[Hazwan]

Sweet! I love the engine bay a lot. I wish mine is half that neat.

I agree about the cowl rust issues. I've had tiny hole in mine and leaking some water when it rains, leaving puddle of water on the passenger floor and after few years the floor rusted to hell. Thankfully I've managed to stop the rust from spreading and it took me a while looking where the hell the water came from. Usually its the leaves or any other craps get plugging the drain hole causing the water to stay in there and... rust!

[2ndGenGuy]

Cool indeed. Your improvised battery tray is great. My car came with the wrong battery in it, and I had to modify my battery tray to keep the battery tied down. I like how you got rid of it completely and relocated it down lower. Better handling due to lower center of gravity... ;)

Did you pull the whole engine to do the clutch???

[79cord]

Yes I removed the entire drivetrain, since I also needed the extra access to remove that snapped alternator bracket bolt from the engine block (the bottom one closest to the sump & frt pulley).
I replaced my Preludes auto with a 5-speed though without removing the engine.

Might still have to adjust clutch again since it releases close to the floor & I seem to be getting some "kangarooing" when I start from rest.

And the rubber mounting inside my upper engine stay/rod is broken causing a rattle at idle....

Looks like one of my gearbox / driveshaft oil seals is leaking too... so I guess they will have to come out again. But I will put that off untill I recheck which frt ball-joint needed replacing (I've forgotten which one) and manage to get another.
Aftermarket parts suppliers have twice given me the wrong parts & it seems their reference books are useless -listing the same part for both sides which is wrong unless you have a Prelude, 2nd Civic or something else....?

So it will probably be Genuine Honda parts...

Last weekend was replacing the rear brake pads & painting everything back there...being clearly visible with those alloy wheels I bought & have re-fitted again.

[vipspiffy]

what is that sheet metal piece on the firewall? and is that an oem oil filter?

[79cord]

Yes nearly new oil filter from the local Honda dealer... dented from engine removal.

I made up a new sheet-aluminium heat shield to replace the factory item, smoothing things out better & enlarged to cover more of the firewall and the charcoal/ carbon canister now relocated into the corner behind it.
I really should add a top over that area too since there were a few leaves there as well.

[Hazwan]

Might still have to adjust clutch again since it releases close to the floor & I seem to be getting some "kangarooing" when I start from rest.




I'm interested in knowing the clutch adjustment. When you said releases close to the floor does it mean it has high pedal travel?

[79cord]

"Might still have to adjust clutch again since it releases close to the floor "

Sorry, Clutch starts to move the car when the clutch pedal is still pushed in close to the floor, Ideally I think I'd like to get it mid-way of the pedal travel....

As to how that will actually be achieved I'm not sure & was just going to fiddle with the adjustments at either end of the master & slave cylinders to see what happens.

[2ndGenGuy]

Parts shops suck at getting the right parts. My projects always get put back because of some part they gave me that's wrong.

[tomatofiasco]

buzzing in to confim lack of drain tap on pre-79 spacecraft heat exchangers. confirming added frustration in deep space coolant flushing and resulting neglect of procedure.

i have a bit of a squeek from my drum brakes, i think. is it time to open them up? also does anyone else have a rattly steering column from too much steering? is it the mounts or the shaft thats worn?

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man, my steering column rattles in my '81 and pisses me off!!! I've got a tiny tiny bit of vibration from a out of balance wheel and my column just rattles away. I haven't had a chance to look into why it's doing it yet, but if you figure yours out first, let me know!!

[79cord]

I just realised that the most annoying rattle from mine is the upper longitudinal engine stay; one of its rubber mountings is cracked through.
Seems to be a common problem.
I think I'll see if I still have some urethane adhesive to stick it back togeather & reinforce it.

[tomatofiasco]

if you whack your steering wheel on the bottom and it goes KLONK, then it must have some play between its bearings and shaft. mine doesnt wobble on the road noticibly but whenever i go through a shallow gutter or some sort of sharp inconsistency in the road, and especially [strangely] when i disengage the clutch while traversing such terrain [its often at intersections, etc.] it rattles like a skull full of musket balls,


ARRRR!

whats a pirate to do? i broke my spare column while trying to steal the car it was steering, which really didnt help. bearings might be re-fabricatable or repairable, but i dunno about the shaft itself.
i have other things to panic about right now anyway ><