Timing belt replacement

[russiankid]

I have searched and I have not found the answer. I know how to replace the timing belt except for one thing. After setting the block to TDC and the head to TDC (which will be done with the old belt still on), how should I go about slipping the new belt on? Is it just straight forward slipping the new belt on, or is there a specific way of aligning the teeth according to the old belt's teeth placement?

Or am I just making this harder then it seems? I am guessing it doesn't matter as long as everything is TDC, but I just want to be sure.

[Pico]

when I redid mine I just slipped the belts off and on, just like you posted making sure the engine was at TDC

[BITESIZE]

The belt should slip right on, then you let the tensioner tighten it for you.

[russiankid]

Alright that makes sense. I also reread the How To on this and the little counting trick seems to make more sense now. I wish I didn't have to do this, but the stupid tensioner took a huge poop!

[russiankid]

Another question. Will I have to redo the tension as the belt will stretch later on?

[Pico]

i dont think so I never readjusted mine on the old engine and on the new engine.
Hopefully someone will correct me if im wrong on this

[BITESIZE]

Timing belts are designed and made to not stretch at all. They have zillions of stitches inside of the rubber.

[russiankid]

Timing belts are designed and made to not stretch at all. They have zillions of stitches inside of the rubber.

That is good to know! Thanks guys, car should be back up and running next weekend!

[Civic Accord Honda]

take pics of the progress :)

[russiankid]

take pics of the progress :)

If I remember, it's nothing special.

[Blkblurr]

Don't you have to keep the side of the belt that does not have the tensioner tight? This way you won't be a tooth off. Also, the tensioner is spring loaded so if the belt stretches, the tensioner takes up the extra length.

[russiankid]

Don't you have to keep the side of the belt that does not have the tensioner tight? This way you won't be a tooth off. Also, the tensioner is spring loaded so if the belt stretches, the tensioner takes up the extra length.

Well I just found out that I am off a tooth on the timing. The cam gear is aligned with the UP mark and the studs, but the flywheel T mark is off a by one line.

[evil88accordLX]

you can make dots on the gear and belt with white paint. once you take the belt off, copy the dots to the new belt and line the dots on the belt back up with the ones on the gears. that way you know you are exact, no matter if you are at TDC or not.

[russiankid]

you can make dots on the gear and belt with white paint. once you take the belt off, copy the dots to the new belt and line the dots on the belt back up with the ones on the gears. that way you know you are exact, no matter if you are at TDC or not.

I did that, but the flywheel is off by two lines. Which means it is probably off one or two teeth on the cam gear.

[Dr_Snooz]

Maybe I just struggle more when I work on my car, but I've found that there is a knack to getting the belt on properly and without undue struggle. It's best to thread the belt over every pulley, tensioner, etc. leaving the cam pulley (on top where you can get the most leverage) for last. For the cam pulley, start on the side opposite the tensioner and pull the belt tight. Pull just enough to take the slack out of it; not too tight or you'll pull the crankshaft off TDC. Starting from the front, set your first belt tooth on the cam pulley, making sure you aren't leaving a lot of slack between the cam and crank pulleys. Proceed to the next tooth, using your fingers to lift the next section of belt up and onto the cam pulley. Slowly, you'll walk the belt over the top of the pulley and you should be golden. Don't start on the tensioner side, or you'll end up with a lot of slop on the drive side and your timing will be off by miles.

Hope that makes sense.

[russiankid]

Alright an update. I got the belt and tensioner, put everything on. Runs great no problems, smooth idle. The only concern I have is that I can push the belt(non tensioner side) in about 4-8mm. Is this normal? It doesn't seem like the belt will skip a tooth or anything. When at higher rpm's, I can see the belt vibrating(non tensioner side), is that normal as well?

[Oldblueaccord]

I run mine tight enuff so you don't see that but it is prolly considered over tighten by most. Glad is running good.



wp

[russiankid]

I run mine tight enuff so you don't see that but it is prolly considered over tighten by most. Glad is running good.



wp

How do you get it that tight? Should I worry about this?

[Hauntd ca3]

the non tensioned side should be taught
just had a 5g wagon in that the guy done his own belt and it was a bit slack on the tensioner side
the belt slipped half a rev and bent all the valves
download the work shop manual and that should set you straight

[russiankid]

the non tensioned side should be taught
just had a 5g wagon in that the guy done his own belt and it was a bit slack on the tensioner side
the belt slipped half a rev and bent all the valves
download the work shop manual and that should set you straight

It is tight on the tensioner side, and taught on the non tensioner side.

[Oldblueaccord]

I think your OK with it. if you did roll it back 3 teeth and tighten the adjuster then your fine.

For me it makes that anoying clack,clack of the motor pinging when your on the gas and shifting real quick.



wp

[russiankid]

Well I checked the belt today and it seems to be the same way as the old one. I will keep and eye on it and readjust the tension if needed. Thanks for the input!

[russiankid]

Alright pics of the tension:
Here is the original state:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/russian03rustler/car%20repair/S6301329.jpg
Here is when I put slight pressure:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/russian03rustler/car%20repair/S6301330.jpg
And here is where I apply good amount of pressure:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/russian03rustler/car%20repair/S6301331.jpg

[headbanger]

im also doing timing belt on my dx and i think im a tooth or 2 off ill get back on it tomorrow i guess.If i dont take a break im going to break something.LOL.:wave: glad urz is running good though.

[88Accord-DX]

Doing timing belts, I like to use a paint marker and put a dot at certain points before I remove it, so after the new one is on. I can look to see if they still are copesthetic. I never liked that 3 tooth rule & never go by it. (which applies with a few other engines)
With these cars, probably the hardest part is breaking loose that freaking crankshaft bolt. I recommend anytime you replace the timing belt, the tensioner needs to be replaced. Here is a pic I have of the timing belt.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/A20A1timingbeltinstalled.jpg

[headbanger]

mine broke thats how i got the car. im having trouble getting it dialed in

[russiankid]

I spun the engine more than 3 teeth, then I tightened the tensioner. The crank bolt was easy to do as I already had to get it off to rebuild my oil pump. So do you think my tension is fine? I drove it about 30 miles already no problems. I am uploading some videos right now.

[russiankid]

Alright got two videos just to show you guys. First one is when is just at high idle.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/russian03rustler/th_S6301332.jpg (http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/russian03rustler/?action=view&current=S6301332.flv)
Next one is after it warmed up. I think it idles damn well for a carb.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/russian03rustler/th_S6301334.jpg (http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e58/russian03rustler/?action=view&current=S6301334.flv)

[Dr_Snooz]

Looks great.

[russiankid]

Looks great.

Thanks!

[Oldblueaccord]

How or where did you post that movie? Ill do one of mine.

To me the belt looked fine. I hear the wine on mine with the cover off I think that should be normal. I think your valves are too loose myself. It might be the camera's mic catching that sound but to me there a bit on the loose side. I dont think its an emergency thing but that was my first thought. Lets let everyone else chime in.

wp

[russiankid]

There isn't any pinging under load, so I don't think they need adjustment.

I uploaded that video onto photobucket.

[Oldblueaccord]

I dont think a misadjusted valve will make it ping. There's just potential for the valve to over heat. It gives off its heat from the head to the seat and its not correct it could make it fail. Like I said I dont think its anything to worry about and really I think the camera is making it sound more then it is.


wp

[russiankid]

I dont think a misadjusted valve will make it ping. There's just potential for the valve to over heat. It gives off its heat from the head to the seat and its not correct it could make it fail. Like I said I dont think its anything to worry about and really I think the camera is making it sound more then it is.


wp

I readjusted the valves and I don't hear any noise from them really. If you notice this is at the warm up stage, so they may make noise when cold.

[Dr_Snooz]

So if the valves are noisy, it's not a big problem. It's when they're quiet that they can burn up.

[russiankid]

So if the valves are noisy, it's not a big problem. It's when they're quiet that they can burn up.

Thats what I thought. I don't have any problems, idles smooth, 37mpg on the highway, so I'll leave it. I put a screw driver on the valve cover studs and I can hear the valves but they aren't loud.

[nfs480]

How are you getting such great gas mileage? Mine only gets an average of 25 mpg!

[russiankid]

How are you getting such great gas mileage? Mine only gets an average of 25 mpg!

I have fairly new spark plugs, new wires, rotor, cap, also adjusted the valves. Is that 25mpg on the highway?

[Dr_Snooz]

How are you getting such great gas mileage? Mine only gets an average of 25 mpg!

Okay, thanks for sending me off on this goose chase. The lightest Accord (for '89 at least) is the DX Coupe MT w/o A/C at 2,493 lbs. The heaviest is the SEi sedan AT with A/C at 2,767 lbs. I think the answer is that your SEi is the heaviest Accord they made with all the bells and whistles that kill fuel economy. Russian has an LX manual trans sedan, so he's weighing in at about 2,595 lbs. (assuming he has A/C). If he doesn't, subtract another 50 lbs. The auto trans also adds another 50 lbs. over the MT.

All other things being equal (like car in good repair, properly inflated tires, reasonable driving style, etc.), you're lugging around 200 extra lbs. that he isn't.

Amazing all the info in the Honda manual!

[russiankid]

I sometimes run through the gears. I get 24mpg in the city. I also have rear disc brakes, plus the LX-i sway bars. I doubt that really has anything to do with the fuel consumption.

P.S. You also have to take on consideration of the climate that you live in.

[nfs480]

I have new spark plugs, new air filter, properly inflated tires, frequent oil changes, the car runs fine, and that 25 mpg is my overall mpg combined between highway and city. But i'd estimate that about 60-70% of my driving is on the highway. This is my most recent mpg that I have calculated and the average temperature here has been about 60 degrees. As for the weight and the AT, i'd assume that is probably the answer. 37 just seemed like a huge difference even for that little weight.

[russiankid]

My average is 30mpg, but I spend most of in the city. I was shocked by 37mpg as well because when my brother had this car he got around 32mpg. I do however run fuel system cleaner every now and then which may help.

I still can't believe I get such good mileage with the timing being off by one tooth.

[nfs480]

What brand cleaner do you use?

[russiankid]

What brand cleaner do you use?

Chevron with Techron.

[Oldblueaccord]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqgNRn3ashM



wp

[MessyHonda]

carbs like summer my dx runs great in the summer

[russiankid]

I am going to readjust the tension today once the engine cools off. If it doesn't change I am going to stop worrying about it.


P.S. WP, once I get home I will watch the video, the school blocks youtube.

[russiankid]

carbs like summer my dx runs great in the summer
Mine runs great in the winter too so it must be just you.

[Oldblueaccord]

Dude dont sweat it to much. I'm thinking some maybe that your valve cover is tin where FI's are aluminium so the sound is just differant. Aslong as the sounds is smooth and uniform its ok in my book. One off beat clack would then make me think that theres a problem with one valve.

The vid is a little dark on you tube. I was trying to show the belt when I was revving it up on the slack side I can see it fine on my computer but not on you tube at all its all muddy.

Glad it is running good the mileage reflects that its running well.


wp

[russiankid]

I am still worried about my tension. It is slightly slack when the engine is cold, but nice and tight when the engine is hot, is that how its suppose to be?

I came to the conclusion that the tension is suppose to be adjusted when the engine is cold so the belt has slack, once the engine warms up the belt tightens up which is where the slack I am getting is needed. Please correct me if I am wrong. If this doesn't sound correct, I will redo the tension or at least try.


I changed the belt at 152,525 and I now have 152,591. So I assume in that time if I didn't do something correct it would show?

[russiankid]

I went ahead and checked the belt after it cooled off, so here is what I have observed, and I wont touch it.

The belt is tight when hot, on both sides, non tensioner and tensioner. Once the belt cools off, it has slight slack on the non tension side but keeping tight on the tensioner side. When the belt is cold, it has a slight flop to it at high rpms, but I assume it goes away once it reaches a sprocket. Once the belt is hot, this flop goes away, and so does the slight slack.

[Hauntd ca3]

you should have a wee bit of slack on the non tensioned side but no more than a few mm
if there is like half an inch there is something not right.
you shouldnt see the non tensioned side flap about when you give it a rev either.
it should be taught on the non tensioned side hot or cold
the belts dont stretch or anything so should stay taught once set right.

[russiankid]

you should have a wee bit of slack on the non tensioned side but no more than a few mm
if there is like half an inch there is something not right.
you shouldnt see the non tensioned side flap about when you give it a rev either.
it should be taught on the non tensioned side hot or cold
the belts dont stretch or anything so should stay taught once set right.

I definitely do not have half an inch of deflection. I would say at most its 5mm. The belt has the flap on the non tensioned side, the tensioned side is nice and steady.

[Dr_Snooz]

I think you're fine. Drive and be happy!

[russiankid]

I think you're fine. Drive and be happy!

Yep that is what I am doing. I appreciate the help. This is the first time I did this job by myself so I was worried. I came to the realization that if the tensioner side is tight, there isn't slack in the belt.