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levon2008
04-28-2008, 05:31 PM
Check engine light comes on right when my 89 accord lxi drops to 800 rpm. stays on when i rev back up i dont know whats going on i did some rewiring but put the colors back properly.. any ideas on where to start?

Pico
04-28-2008, 05:34 PM
did you check to see if the ECU is throwing any codes?

levon2008
04-28-2008, 05:49 PM
did you check to see if the ECU is throwing any codes?

naw how do i check

Pico
04-28-2008, 05:53 PM
naw how do i check

ECU is under the drivers seat, if you look under the seat from the rear there's a opening where you can see if the LED on the ECU is blinking
Here's a list of the codes
ECU Codes (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=850664&postcount=2)

levon2008
04-28-2008, 05:57 PM
ECU is under the drivers seat, if you look under the seat from the rear there's a opening where you can see if the LED on the ECU is blinking
Here's a list of the codes
ECU Codes (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=850664&postcount=2)

hey thanks alot picopop

Pico
04-28-2008, 05:59 PM
hey thanks alot picopop

No Problem, Good Luck

Dr_Snooz
04-28-2008, 08:24 PM
Hey levon! Any new pics?

MessyHonda
04-28-2008, 09:36 PM
hope its a cheap fix

A18A
04-28-2008, 09:44 PM
sounds like the tps to me

2oodoor
04-29-2008, 05:50 AM
sounds like the tps to me

agree, but how is it resetting itself if it is not OBD II , the first post sounds like it is going off and then coming on, and going off, etc. Pre OBD II vehicles keep hard codes up once they occure and the CEL stays on until cleared. Only OBD II veh. will cancel the light and store the "soft" code I thought.

levon2008
04-29-2008, 08:44 AM
Dr snooz
nope not yet maybe a day or two :)

A18A
04-29-2008, 08:55 AM
agree, but how is it resetting itself if it is not OBD II , the first post sounds like it is going off and then coming on, and going off, etc. Pre OBD II vehicles keep hard codes up once they occure and the CEL stays on until cleared. Only OBD II veh. will cancel the light and store the "soft" code I thought.

not sure, but when i was having tps problems, on first start it would start fine, and will run without error codes as long as the engine was running above 1500 (cant remember what revs actually) but once you let it drop below the certain rpm, the error code shows up

levon2008
04-29-2008, 09:07 AM
09* LED FLASH(s) 85-98** Accord
CYP Sensor (Cylinder)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
* not a valid code for any throttle body injection Hondas
** not a valid code for V-6 engines

okay heres my code that kicks out off of the ecu.. But it says not valid for any throttle body injection hondas mine is fuel injected? What should i look for now?

also when i did my wiring harness i noticed a clear yellow box with a bunch of black ground wires going to it i figured that those are all ground so i wrapped them together and then ground them to the body of the car. I made sure that they were ground by turning on my turn signal when it failed to turn i, I touched the ground wires to the body and then it turned on..

levon2008
04-29-2008, 09:16 AM
not sure, but when i was having tps problems, on first start it would start fine, and will run without error codes as long as the engine was running above 1500 (cant remember what revs actually) but once you let it drop below the certain rpm, the error code shows up

Yea sounds like my problem it takes awhile though i let the car run for about 5 minutes then it drops down to about 800 and what do you know check your engine buddy light comes on.
whats the tps just in case i need to look at that...

levon2008
04-29-2008, 09:21 AM
im going to look at some thing i think this happened once before..
It was under the wheel the wire harness that ran through there fell down on top of the tire, The previous owner didnt secure it right. So one day i decide to try to move them and this check engine light came on.. Some of the wires there are bare i taped them up but maybe some how i missed a couple lol,,

Plus i moved them through a tight squeeze ill post pics in a day or two throw some ideas around while i check this out really quick..

levon2008
04-29-2008, 09:32 AM
im going to look at some thing i think this happened once before..
It was under the wheel the wire harness that ran through there fell down on top of the tire, The previous owner didnt secure it right. So one day i decide to try to move them and this check engine light came on.. Some of the wires there are bare i taped them up but maybe some how i missed a couple lol,,

Plus i moved them through a tight squeeze ill post pics in a day or two throw some ideas around while i check this out really quick..

Nope same crap.. check engine wont go off,

09* LED FLASH(s) 85-98** Accord
CYP Sensor (Cylinder)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
* not a valid code for any throttle body injection Hondas
** not a valid code for V-6 engines

Dr_Snooz
04-29-2008, 08:07 PM
Nine flashes would be your Crank Angle Sensor. That's in the distributor and is not available separately. Dizzies are quite expensive and becoming harder to get. Start by removing your #11 (ECU) fuse for 10 seconds to reset the ECU. Then re-start to see if the light comes on again. If not, you're still good for awhile. If it does, unplug the connector on top of the dizzie and measure resistance between the Orange and White wires. It should be between 650 & 850 ohms. Then check for continuity between those same wires and body ground. There shouldn't be any. If you're out of spec, replace the dizzie. If not, then you are looking at wire opens or shorts and possibly a bad ECU.

Hope that helps, and don't forget the pics!

levon2008
04-29-2008, 10:01 PM
Nine flashes would be your Crank Angle Sensor. That's in the distributor and is not available separately. Dizzies are quite expensive and becoming harder to get. Start by removing your #11 (ECU) fuse for 10 seconds to reset the ECU. Then re-start to see if the light comes on again. If not, you're still good for awhile. If it does, unplug the connector on top of the dizzie and measure resistance between the Orange and White wires. It should be between 650 & 850 ohms. Then check for continuity between those same wires and body ground. There shouldn't be any. If you're out of spec, replace the dizzie. If not, then you are looking at wire opens or shorts and possibly a bad ECU.

Hope that helps, and don't forget the pics!

Yeah thats good info, I will post some more pics for you i will shoot for tomorrow.

Thanks again Dr_Snooz