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Hazwan
04-29-2008, 12:56 AM
How often does brakes need work? I can't remember the last time any brake parts has been replaced. So far it stops fine, except theres a little shudder at high speed (OMG cementite!!!!11) and some noise when braking which is caused by the missing anti rattle clips.

The rotors has been turned before and it appears to have some deep scores and I guess its time for replacement?

How hard is it to replace both pads and rotors for a n00b like me? And how do I know if my pads need replacing? My brake fluid is dark and thought it would be a good idea to service my brake while I'm at it.

ghettogeddy
04-29-2008, 08:05 AM
look at the pads and see how much of them are left
it vary's on how often you drive

2ndGenGuy
04-29-2008, 08:14 AM
Oh man you're in for a treat. The brake rotors in the 1geez are pressed into the hubs. So once you get the wheel off, you've gotta take the 4 bolts out of the hub and then somehow pull the hubs apart.

From what I've read, there is a tool that attaches and acts like a slide hammer and you can pull it apart that way. Then when you put it all back together, you can tighten it up with the spindle nut. I don't know how safe that is to do...

The way I did it, was to just disconnect the lower ball joint, tie rod, and strut, and took the whole knuckle off. Then I took new wheel bearings and rotors with the knuckle down to a shop and had them press it all apart and together.

Sounds like you could use some new rotors anyways, and can't hurt to have some new wheels bearings put in at the same time. You might as well do your pads too. The only way to know if your pads are low, is to pop off the caliper and look at the pads themselves. You can take the calipers off without unbolting anything by just undoing the big metal clips on the caliper.

Also, while you're in there, you'll see two metal pieces between the caliper and the caliper bracket. Those are the sliders, and you should clean them off really well with a wire brush before you put it back together. Good idea to make sure all metal on metal surfaces are clean and free of corrosion before you put it back together. I don't think you want to lube the sliders on this car either, since they're not sealed, and they'd just collect dust and quit working quicker. Seems the metal they're made of is plenty slippery.

These brakes are definitely unconventional compared to what I'm used to...

Hazwan
04-29-2008, 08:43 AM
Oh snap! Sounds complicated enough for my first brake job. I think I'll pass. I'm not confident enough to do the job on important part like the brakes!

I'll check my pads and get that anti rattle clips replaced though. Its really embarassing as it sounds like my car is falling apart whenever I'm stopping. And get all flexible line replaced as they are cracking and flushing the fluid as well. Looking back at the repair receipts my dad made in the past 7 years the master cylinder has been rebuilt and I guess thats the last time new fluid is back in and I doubt whoever did the job flushed all the old fluid out.

Futu
04-29-2008, 09:19 AM
changing brake pads is easy, the rotors in the other hand can be a headache if the rotors havent been changed for a long ass time ;p Even with the slide hammer i could not even take out the rotor. :mad:

2ndGenGuy
04-29-2008, 10:20 AM
You can do most of the work yourself. I didn't mean to make it more complicated than it sounds. Just have a shop do the rotors and you can put the pads on yourself and bleed the brakes. It's pretty easy. I know you can do it. ;)

MessyHonda
04-29-2008, 10:53 AM
haha....good luck....my friend drives a toyota and they never did the brakes....one day the pad snaped in half...paid 700 bucks at the dealershit for new rotors pads and installation.

79cord
04-29-2008, 03:20 PM
A good idea to get the brake fluid bled/replaced regularly (maybe every year or two) as was mentioned with your clutch master cylinder. Most brake fluids (unless you get super expensive brake fluids) absorbing moisture, which can boil to steam if your brakes get really hot but also cause corrosion of master & especially wheel cylinders.

As said frt Pads are easy like most other cars, just the rotors, which usually last far longer are more difficult. I think minimum recomended rotor thickness (8 or 10mm?) was written/cast on to them.

For the 2nd generation Accords Honda went to a 'floating' disc rotor concept sliding over the wheel hub instead of being sandwiched into the assembly for easy removal (two screws), though I think they returned to the older concept for the 4th or 5th generation !

Rear drums are a little more difficult than some other cars for a similar reason, with the rear wheelbearings mounted in the drum, which obviously needs removal to check or replace the brake linings ; not hard but makes it a little messier avoiding the bearings grease & you have to do up the retaining bolt the right amount. Too tight & your wheels don't want to turn. Too loose & your wheel flops about.
And the back brakes are not self-adjusting to compensate for brake lining wear, (affecting how quickly they start operating & the handbrake), with a seperate 'bolt' on the back to adjust them.

Workshop manual usefull.

2ndGenGuy
04-29-2008, 03:37 PM
Oh the rear brakes aren't self adjusting. Crap, that's why I can't get my e-brake to adjust, and that squishy feel out of the brake pedal. The bolt is on the back of the "hub"?

79cord
04-29-2008, 05:35 PM
4 sided bolt thingy from memory. On the back/ bottom of each drum backing plate. Turning it spreads apart the bottom lining mountings.

Of course there's also the handbrake cable adjustment in the middle of the car

Hazwan
04-29-2008, 06:48 PM
Thanks I'll try doing whatever I can lol.

No wonder why I need to adjust my handbrake by myself.

2ndGenGuy
04-29-2008, 07:07 PM
Yeah I also adjusted the shit out of my ebrake and it never got much better. Thanks for the info.

Dr_Snooz
04-29-2008, 08:46 PM
Oh man you're in for a treat. The brake rotors in the 1geez are pressed into the hubs. So once you get the wheel off, you've gotta take the 4 bolts out of the hub and then somehow pull the hubs apart.

From what I've read, there is a tool that attaches and acts like a slide hammer and you can pull it apart that way. Then when you put it all back together, you can tighten it up with the spindle nut. I don't know how safe that is to do...


When I had my '76, I pulled the knuckle and beat out the hub with a steel punch on my garage floor. Then I beat the new one in the same way. I wasn't too bright back then, but it worked. I was so glad when I got my '82 and that titanically stupid design was abandoned. Then when I got my '93 I saw Honda had gone back to that and I said "Aw, hell no!!!" and gave that wretched car away. Now I have my '89 and it makes me happy! :D

I'm still not real smart, though, because I gave the car to my Mom. Every time it needs something, I'm the poor fool who gets to do it. Anyway, I learned that it is possible to retrofit a rotor over hub design on the car. Let me tell you right now, that crap is gonna get fixed. I'm not sure if it's possible for the 1st gens, but it is well worth many hours and days of research to find out. From what I remember, the '82s were pretty similar to the '76-'81s. It might be possible to swap out an '82's rotor over hub design to an '81. They're much better brakes anyway, ventilated discs if I am recollecting properly.

Dr_Snooz
04-29-2008, 08:49 PM
Oh the rear brakes aren't self adjusting. Crap, that's why I can't get my e-brake to adjust, and that squishy feel out of the brake pedal. The bolt is on the back of the "hub"?

Seven millimeter square head, bra! After you adjust them, the brakes will be awesome! They'll feel great and stop wonderfully. You'll have a big grin on your face.

...for a couple days. Then it will be the same as it was before you adjusted. Really poor design.

79cord
04-29-2008, 09:35 PM
It might be possible to swap out an '82's rotor over hub design to an '81. They're much better brakes anyway, ventilated discs if I am recollecting properly.

Been there & surpassed that on mine. 2nd gen Prelude RR disc's/calipers, 2nd gen Civic hubs, Integra vented Frt disc rotors, CR-X Si calipers (Though 3rd gen Prelude might fit better according to some experiments last w/end.).
But its a full conversion from 4x120 to 4x100 PCD wheels & stud pattern so pretty major & perhaps getting off topic.

If someone only wanted to upgrade to self adjusting rear drum brakes 1st gen Prelude / 2nd Civic backing plates & gizzards might fit under the Accord brake drums & still match up with the original handbrake cable locations.

Hazwan
05-04-2008, 08:51 PM
So I guess the pads is still good? I've found a receipt that the pads has been replaced ~30k kms ago.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v197/ullyeus/accord/DSC02128.jpg

While replacing the rear flexible hose, I found out this is why you should change your brake fluid at least once in 2 years.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v197/ullyeus/accord/DSC02124.jpg

I know the color doesn't mean anything, but theres a lot of craps coming out with the fluid.

I'm replacing dad's Feroza (which recently painted by us) master cylinder today as the bore is badly rusted and the fluid is even worse and even more craps than mine.

2ndGenGuy
05-04-2008, 09:22 PM
The pads look good, though they should be wearing more evenly. Cleaning up those sliders should take care of that. Good catch on that brake fluid too, gotta get that stuff out and get some nice clean clear fluid.

Hazwan
05-05-2008, 12:10 AM
So while the caliper is out I wire brushed the whole thing and repaint the proper way. I just realized that I ran out of gold paint and need to get my ass out to buy one lol. Note the shiny sliders

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v197/ullyeus/accord/brake/DSC02129.jpg


Bad news :(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v197/ullyeus/accord/brake/DSC02131.jpg

I'll get that welded up tomorrow. Anybody selling a hatch?????? ANYONE???!!!!

Hazwan
05-05-2008, 05:15 AM
Nobody sells the anti rattle clips apparently. I'm so pissed at the guy who did the axle last time. He lost the fucking clips. I'm going to the junkyard later on to see if theres any :(

79cord
05-05-2008, 01:53 PM
Sound like frustrating discoveries.
Had to paint mine when I did them too... except the spray can was old so the paint preferred to go everywhere but where it was supposed to.

Hazwan
05-05-2008, 05:40 PM
The paint still held up fine, just thought I'd do the proper way since last time I didn't disassemble the caliper.

I made my own clips and so far no noise... yet!