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bank2me
04-29-2008, 08:50 AM
What is the term 'orange peel' that shows up while wet sanding?:gun:

Hazwan
04-29-2008, 08:57 AM
Rough surface of the painted surfaces. Better explaination on wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange_peel_%28effect%29

bank2me
05-05-2008, 09:00 AM
Does anyone have a picture of the orange peel that occurs during sanding. I put 2 coats on and it is going back down to the original paint when I wetsand. Anyone have any tips. I am using 1000 grit for wetsanding.:gun:

forrest89sei
05-05-2008, 11:07 AM
Here you go:

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/reference/troubleshooting_guide/orange_peel/index.cfm

BITESIZE
05-05-2008, 11:15 AM
Aren't you using the $50 technique?

bank2me
05-05-2008, 11:43 AM
Hey Bitesize that is correct I am using the 50 dollar technique but for some reason when I sand it cits throught the rustoleum. Wrong grit sandpaper maybe?

2ndGenGuy
05-05-2008, 01:08 PM
Not a heavy enough coat of paint. That's why you're sanding through. If I understand the $50 paint job, you're going to sand through the coat a few times in the higher spots and the paint will fill in the low spots. You're going to have to do like 5 or more coats of paint until it quits doing that. That is by far the most labor intensive way to paint a car.

Hauntd ca3
05-05-2008, 11:55 PM
the pain if you using the good old spray can is thaey dont put the paint on thick enuf
you reall got to get a compressor and spray gun to get it right .
even then you still need a couple coats of primer then 3 or 4 colour.
but the end result always depends on the prep work even when you use spray cans.
have seen some good looking jobs one with cans.
im not putting any colour on until my panels are perfect.
do the primer until it feels smooth as when you rub your hand over it.
then a few coats of black base coat rubbed back between coats until same then same with colour and clear coats
takes fuckin ages but you end up with a brilliant finish and you'll feel way better for it doing right

bank2me
05-06-2008, 09:14 AM
Well some of the spots are going through down to the original paint. Others are just getting a more "flat black" look. Partyharty had the same trouble I think but he hasn't been on here lately though.

markmdz89hatch
05-06-2008, 10:55 AM
like everyone else has said, lay it on thick, just be careful not to get any drips or runs. a few small fish-eyes can be sanded out. Be prepared to spend way more then just 50 on rattle-cans though. You'll need more then that to get a good even coat of paint on the car.

Don't forget to sand the original surface to etch the surface so the primer (which is also very important with a buzz-bomb job) can adhere, then the same with the primer so the base, and all subsequent coats adhere, and go on as smooth as possible. But, it's also very important to let the paint dry completely before wet-sanding, otherwise you'll end up dragging the paint, and at that point you've opened up a can of worms you definitly don't want any part of. Best advice on the deepest shine, start with 1000 on the wet-sanding, then step down to 1500, and even 2000. The finer the grit, the better polish you'll get. Then at least 2-3 coats of good quality wax, and you'll be pretty happy with it

There are numerous reasons to use a compressor and spray gun, not only for uniform coverage, but also the paint for the spray guns needs to be mixed with a hardener, which results in the paint drying faster, and being able to go on thicker without sagging as easily.