Another stupid amp question

[toastyghost]

Infinity Reference 12" sub rated 300w @ 4o
JBL 1200.1 mono amp output 1x600w @ 4o

Ok so I'm getting two of these subs, and I want the JBL amps for my shizit because they are highly recommended by lots of peeps... anyway this jbl amp runs 1x600, is there a splitter or crossover or some shit that I can buy separately that will make that into 2x300w? Or do I need to get two of the 600.1 amps and have 1x300w amp per sub? Or is there another way to do this?

[Vanilla Sky]

is the amp 2 ohm stable? what's the wattage there? you could run the speakers in parellel and get that... but i would assume the amp will put out a higher wattage in that case, so it may not be good... but isnt' the peak of those subs like 1020 watts? if it is, you could probably still run parallel and not blow the subs

Derick

[sanjay]

Derick know's what he's talking about

[shepherd79]

ok i am guessing this is the amp you are talking. http://www.jbl.com/car/product.asp?prod=BP1200.1&ser=POS&cat=AMP
ok according to the specs in the manual, it will run 1ohm stable but after 2ohm the power will not increase.
you could run 2 subs in 2ohm stable and it will give you 1200W of power, but why, why?
why not getting jbl 600.1 amp. http://www.jbl.com/car/product.asp?cat=AMP&ser=POS&prod=BP600.1
it will run 600w stable at 2ohm and you know it won't blow up your speakers.
plus 1200.1 is pulling 114amps and 600.1 is pulling 57 amps. so if you are going to have more than one amp, you may want to consider 600.1. this way you will have some amps. left to run another amplifier.

[Bobs89LXi]

I agree with shepherd. I would get the 600.1 to give you some "breathing room" in the current draw department. Unless of course you are planning on adding a heavy duty alternator, along with possibly an extra battery and isolator to your system. If you insist on going with the 1200.1, there should be no harm in wiring your subs in parallel.

[Vanilla Sky]

ya, ya'd prolly be better off with some room to breathe... go for the lower wattage amp...

Derick

[Vanilla Sky]

Originally posted by sanjay
Derick know's what he's talking about

i do???

Derick

[staticpat]

well if you get the 1200 you can always upgrade later. just set your gains low, and im sure the infinitys would take the power as long as you don't push them way too hard.

[toastyghost]

I am looking at the 4 ohm wattage ratings because the Reference 12's are 4 ohm speex... So the 600.1 will only put out 300w which would be 150w per sub right? If so then that's only half their RMS which isn't shit.. I want some BASS but I don't want to blow these speex. I'm planning on getting at least a 1-farad capacitor when I get the subs, will this be a good solution to not put so much extra draw on the alternator?

[Bobs89LXi]

Agreed, one sub is 4 ohms. However, if you wire two in parallel, then your overall impedence is cut in half, ie: 2 ohms. So, you can go by the 2 ohm ratings.

[Vanilla Sky]

well, you will be pulling a 2 ohm load from the amp, making it 1200 watts... 600 per sub... you'd could do that and still not really risk the subes, but you'd probably have to wire more than one farad of capitance in to keep it goin without distortion... the up side is that you could always upgrade to better speakers...

Derick

[toastyghost]

Hmm so the 600.1 wired in parallel to 2 subs will put out the 600w load?! SWEET THE CHEAPER AMP GIVES ME THE WATTAGE I WANTED
THANKS GUYS!!

[toastyghost]

Oh yeah and what about 1 farad per sub circuit? I understand the physics that makes this shit work.. the capicitance is kind of a buffer of displaced electrons between the battery/alt and whatever's drawing power... what I don't know in relation to car audio is the #'s. Is there any kind of convention on how much capacitance you will need for a given system to not threaten the alternator or battery?

[mindlos]

1 Farad per kilowatt is the rule of thumb for non overkill applications.