Throttle controller

[russiankid]

For some reason today my throttle controller raised the idle up to 1500 rpm's. Maybe because it was very hot and I was stuck in traffic, but not sure. I got home and I backed the screw out until the idle dropped to normal. I backed the screw out until the idle dropped, then screw it in until the screw touched the throttle linkage and then backed of half a turn. This left a small gap between the two.

So the question is what is the proper gap between the screw and the throttle linkage? I am pretty sure it needs to be pretty close, I can always back it out a little bit if it happens again but I just want to be sure.

[steveko]

Check the throttle controller for leaks and the related line. Also,the check valve.

There really isn't a preset gap.Set it by pulling the vaccum line off and then adjusting the controller set screw should be between 1500 and 1700 RPMs.

[russiankid]

I ended up capping it off because it does not hold vacuum. It would hold vacuum sometimes, and other times it wouldn't which caused high idle. So I just capped it off since it hasn't been working for the past 3 years at least.

[2oodoor]

buy my weber, 15 problems solved in one flail swoop:rolleyes:
as skilled as you are with your car I am surpirzed you have not considered the vaccuum removal mod

[steveko]

I've replaced mine once 3 years ago and it's been great since then. Although there are other issues I'm working on my camaro first then I'll get too it. Engine is very tired on my accord I wish I had 153,000 instead of 206,000. Anyway glad too here you found a remedy for the time being.

[2oodoor]

I've replaced mine once 3 years ago and it's been great since then. Although there are other issues I'm working on my camaro first then I'll get too it. Engine is very tired on my accord I wish I had 153,000 instead of 206,000. Anyway glad too here you found a remedy for the time being.

206K, dam steveko, give it a chance to prove itself, it is that lame ass factory carb. fix the oil leaks, fresh radiator, and upgrade the fuel system. Look at mushroom toy's car for example, over 400K and he still runs the bawls off it with no problems. My DX has over 246K miles, I thought is was about shot, I replaced the carb with a weber , replaced some hoses and ... it is like a whole different car. It used to knock and carry on when I cranked it up cold, now the noises are all gone, no smoke, no crazy idle , no complaints. My LX, same thing, weber carb and a header, but with a fresh head job to boot, and some new oil seals.. runs like new, plenty of power for the interstate, great mpg. Neither uses a drop of oil and they will take about anything I give em. Sorry for going off topic

[russiankid]

I would do the vacuum removal if I didn't have emissions. Since I am moving to PA, my county has emissions for my car. I am sure my car would be a lot better with a better carburetor. It has all new oil seals, hoses, radiator, bushings, ball joints, you name it.

[steveko]

I'm sorry roodoo2 I did'nt see you're response I guess I get frustrated quickly.Although I've done alot too it. Still could use more, just seems like it's starting too nickle and dime me too death.

Here's the list of new in the past 4years too current. 1 New timing belt and all motor belts at 180,000
2 New radiator & upper hose 4years
3 New altenator 3years
4 New fuel pump.3years also Trans fluid chaged.
5 New wires 2years old
6 Recent New plugs rotor,cap and oil change.

Forgot too add new choke opener and other carb controls that I fail too remember right now. Yes, it leaks oil like a pig.Needs oil pan badly.

[russiankid]

I'm sorry roodoo2 I did'nt see you're response I guess I get frustrated quickly.Although I've done alot too it. Still could use more, just seems like it's starting too nickle and dime me too death.

Here's the list of new in the past 4years too current. 1 New timing belt and all motor belts at 180,000
2 New radiator & upper hose 4years
3 New altenator 3years
4 New fuel pump.3years also Trans fluid chaged.
5 New wires 2years old
6 Recent New plugs rotor,cap and oil change.

Forgot too add new choke opener and other carb controls that I fail too remember right now. Yes, it leaks oil like a pig.Needs oil pan badly.

Sounds like my car when it first came into my family. Mine has a minor leak from the oil pan. You cannot see it unless you get under the car, it doesn't drip on the ground or anything. :squint:

[2oodoor]

"most" oil pan leaks are gravitational leaks, it only slings out when you corner the car.
If it is leaking just sitting there, I would look at the oil filter base adapter gasket, oil pump gasket under the timing cover, dist o-ring, oil pan drain bolt
these all are round rubber and get cracks in them after twenty years.
The other items you list steveko, are general maintenance items you could expect to do even on 1996-2006 models. Except for the carb controls and rotor button.

[steveko]

Let me see I know I replaced the oil filter base adapter gasket. I still have the distributor O ring gasket yet too be put on. The others I can't say I've touched. That's with the exception of the drain plug gasket every oil change. I know the pan is bad because the drain plug threads are shot.Also the oil pan mount bolts a couple broke off in the block casting.

Let's see the last time I checked the compression. Althought it was even across all cylinders it was very low about 125psi mabey 135psi gauge could be 10lbs off on the 125 reading I took but still too low for my liking.