oil light flashing... help?

[1987AccordLx-i]

sorry guys.. this has me worried and i have no time to "search" for forums with my issue.... so im driving and all of a sudden the oil light starts to flash off/on... :wtf: im afraid to drive my car in fear of total ownage of the motor from friction... help... seriously help??

[A18A]

umm check the oil?

[Civic Accord Honda]

check oil if its full u have a oil pressure problem
and don't drive the car tel u get it figured out or you may damage the engine

[1987AccordLx-i]

check oil if its full u have a oil pressure problem
and don't drive the car tel u get it figured out or you may damage the engine

well oil level is good.. and it came on randomly when driving... i turned off the car and let it sit for like a minute and started it and the light hasnt come on since... what do you guys think? time for new motor??

[Pico]

either your switch is bad or the wire going to the switch is bad or worse something internal, get a hand held gauge and check your oil pressure

[bobafett]

yeah man you need to check your oil pressure. a autometer gauge is pretty inexpensive compared to a motor, and you may be able to just borrow one from a buddy if you know anybody with a 'project' car.

your oil pressure switch is 1/8 bspt, most gauges and sensors are 1/8 NPT, so you will need an adapter in order to thread in the aftermarket sensor if you plan on doing that.

[russiankid]

Are you leaking any oil? If the oil pump is leaking, the leak can cause the pressure to drop when the oil gets hot.

[evil88accordLX]

my accord does this every great once in a while, and it is always while in a sharp turn. i also had a 94 civic that had the same issue. it was always while turning hard, so it leads me to believe that possibly the oil is sloshing around in the pan to the extent that the pickup doesnt get any oil for a second or two, thus resulting in a flashing oil light. the accord leaks oil, but the civic did not, so the level was always okay.

[russiankid]

my accord does this every great once in a while, and it is always while in a sharp turn. i also had a 94 civic that had the same issue. it was always while turning hard, so it leads me to believe that possibly the oil is sloshing around in the pan to the extent that the pickup doesnt get any oil for a second or two, thus resulting in a flashing oil light. the accord leaks oil, but the civic did not, so the level was always okay.

I never have or had this(knock on wood). I keep my oil level on maximum all the time, maybe that could play a role.

[Catalyst]

Did you take a hard turn or run the motor hard right before this happened? Just the other day, my hatch's oil level was almost at the bottom dot on the dipstick, and I took a U turn really hard, and that caused the oil light to come on. It goes away after I turn the car off. Just make sure your oil level is good, and you should be fine.

[greentee76]

From the owners manual:
As an initial warning, this light will flash on and off when there is barely enough oil for proper lubrication; you should stop as soon as possible and add oil as necessary.
The oil pressure light will come on, and remain on, if there is insuffient oil pressure or when the ignition switch is turned on with the engine not running. If the light should come on while driving, get the car off the road as soon as you can, turn the engine off and check the engine oil level.

That being said I have had this issue when I have been low on oil, when my idle was set to low, and when my oil was being diluted by fuel from a malfunctioning carb choke.
If I recall correctly the light is set to come on at between 1-3 psi oil pressure.
Personally I had good results using some Lucas engine oil stabilizer when I had this problem due to the diluted oil (although I know some here hate the stuff.
Hope this helps.

[markmdz89hatch]

for all you guys (including me) that have had the light come on under hard turning or cornering, that's a good 'ol fashion [B]dry pickup[B]. Word to the wise, check your oil level. Next word to the wise: Don't do that again.

I stalled out when doing this once. Luckily the motor shut off before I gouged the snot out of my cylinders, but a dry pickup is the devil.

If you insist on dog-legging your car a bunch, I would highly suggest either keeping a short stack of motors in your garage, or just find a fabricator and have them weld some baffles in your oil pan so the oil doesn't slosh around quite as much.

[lostforawhile]

for all you guys (including me) that have had the light come on under hard turning or cornering, that's a good 'ol fashion [B]dry pickup[B]. Word to the wise, check your oil level. Next word to the wise: Don't do that again.

I stalled out when doing this once. Luckily the motor shut off before I gouged the snot out of my cylinders, but a dry pickup is the devil.

If you insist on dog-legging your car a bunch, I would highly suggest either keeping a short stack of motors in your garage, or just find a fabricator and have them weld some baffles in your oil pan so the oil doesn't slosh around quite as much.somebody on here sells the windage tray and oil baffles for the pan. this will prevent this problem,. since i like to dog my car when i plumb the oil cooler i will put in an accusump oil accumulator in the line. this keeps an extra quart of oil under presure,and if the oil pressure drops below a certain point you set,it forces this oil into the engine. then when the pressure comes back up,the oil is forced back into the accusump. you can buy an electric valve for this for around a hundred bucks,when this valve is wired into the ignition circuit, as soon as you turn the key,it forces the pressurized oil into the system. this prelubes your motor before you start it.

[lostforawhile]

http://www.livermoreperformance.com/canton_accusump.html

[MessyHonda]

we need some one to make us some baffles for our pan

[lostforawhile]

here they still make them. http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50274&highlight=windage+tray

[1987AccordLx-i]

yeah man you need to check your oil pressure. a autometer gauge is pretty inexpensive compared to a motor, and you may be able to just borrow one from a buddy if you know anybody with a 'project' car.

your oil pressure switch is 1/8 bspt, most gauges and sensors are 1/8 NPT, so you will need an adapter in order to thread in the aftermarket sensor if you plan on doing that.

well right before... i busted a bitch and it was pretty hard so could that possibly be that i had dry pickup?? cuz since the light came on it hasnt come on anymore.. and i do want to get an oil pressure gauge.. pretty cheap insurance to engine failure.. any ideas on how its run? electrical or do i have to tap an oil line somewhere?

[Pico]

Here's some info on installing a pressure switch.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63047&highlight=oil+pressure+switch

[MessyHonda]

here they still make them. http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50274&highlight=windage+tray



i should of done it when i had to do my oil pan

[bobafett]

ugh i had my oil pan baffled by the shop that built my motor. Unfortunately it warped (very common when welding on pans) and now my pan leaks like a bitch. I will have to go back to a stock pan for now until I can get the warped pan repaired.

As for the oil pressure gauges, there are two types, electrical and mechanical. I would HIGHLY reccomend only considering and electrical gauge, you don't want high pressure oil lines running into your cabin if it ever leaks you won't like the results.

Mechanical gauges are less expensive, and could reside in the engine bay somewhere without any real problem.

Either way you will need a 1/8 NPT threaded hole to install either the oil hard line or the electric gauge sensor.

either an oil filter housing adapter or a stealthmode adatper would work fine to allow you to keep the dummy light AND also run the oil gauge.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=200

http://stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-blockfit.shtml

either way will work, I would reccomend the stealthmode fitting for simplicity and less chance of leaks.

[lostforawhile]

ugh i had my oil pan baffled by the shop that built my motor. Unfortunately it warped (very common when welding on pans) and now my pan leaks like a bitch. I will have to go back to a stock pan for now until I can get the warped pan repaired.

As for the oil pressure gauges, there are two types, electrical and mechanical. I would HIGHLY reccomend only considering and electrical gauge, you don't want high pressure oil lines running into your cabin if it ever leaks you won't like the results.

Mechanical gauges are less expensive, and could reside in the engine bay somewhere without any real problem.

Either way you will need a 1/8 NPT threaded hole to install either the oil hard line or the electric gauge sensor.

either an oil filter housing adapter or a stealthmode adatper would work fine to allow you to keep the dummy light AND also run the oil gauge.

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=200

http://stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-blockfit.shtml

either way will work, I would reccomend the stealthmode fitting for simplicity and less chance of leaks.
if you put in a mechanical gauge just use high quality lines. mechanical gauge is more accurate and faster acting then electrical.

[bobafett]

haha yeah however they are not THAT much slower responding, IE, fractions of a second, and I'm sure that a reaction time based on the reading of that gauge isn't going to make the difference between saving or destroying an engine.

Also is the fact that plumbing mechanical lines is a huge huge pain in the ass, but running a tiny sensor signal wire is no big deal.

I just hesitate to recommend mechanical gauges to anybody to use in their cabin, except boost gauge of course.

in fact I hooked up an electronic boost gauge up next to a mechanical one just to test this, and there was absolutely no perceptible difference... that was my experience with my own two eyes.

[lostforawhile]

haha yeah however they are not THAT much slower responding, IE, fractions of a second, and I'm sure that a reaction time based on the reading of that gauge isn't going to make the difference between saving or destroying an engine.

Also is the fact that plumbing mechanical lines is a huge huge pain in the ass, but running a tiny sensor signal wire is no big deal.

I just hesitate to recommend mechanical gauges to anybody to use in their cabin, except boost gauge of course.

in fact I hooked up an electronic boost gauge up next to a mechanical one just to test this, and there was absolutely no perceptible difference... that was my experience with my own two eyes. just use aeroquip braided line,and use a bulkhead feedthrough. that line will outlast the car.

[1987AccordLx-i]

hey guys... quick y/n question... will an F22B fit in our cars?... if not then can i have a list of engines that will?? please guys im going to get a new motor and i want to know what will fit.. thanks

[bobafett]

http://www.3geez.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=19

http://www.3geez.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=33

post in another hour or two after reading up.

short answer, hell no... vector answer, pshhh why not?

no other engines will drop in except the jdm accord b20a NOT to be confused with any b20 you ever see for sale which will certainly not fit.

[A18A]

can i have a list of engines that will??

a16a1
a18a
a18a1
a20a
a20a1
a20a2
a20a3
a20a4
b20a
b20a1
b20a2
b20a8
bs
bt

and those other ones i cant remember the names of

[1987AccordLx-i]

a16a1
a18a
a18a1
a20a
a20a1
a20a2
a20a3
a20a4
b20a
b20a1
b20a2
b20a8
bs
bt

and those other ones i cant remember the names of

well done.. question number 2.. which is the most powerfull and easiest to obtain? im in the us so emissions is a bitch here

[MessyHonda]

well done.. question number 2.. which is the most powerfull and easiest to obtain? im in the us so emissions is a bitch here



well the 88-89 a20a3 is rated for 122hp...its the easyest to get here...the only diff bettween the 86-87 is a better flowing exhuast manifold and intake manifold...but you can just get headers and call it a day

[evil88accordLX]

well done.. question number 2.. which is the most powerfull and easiest to obtain? im in the us so emissions is a bitch here

being that you are in Cali., isnt there a law about swapping in a different engine in your car anyhow? i would think that limits you to the A20A3. i could be wrong on this, but i thought i had read that on here somewhere before. here in Arkansas, we dont even have inspection! you could drop a tank engine in it if you really wanted.....

[lostforawhile]

i believe it just has to be the same year or newer then the car,and it has to have all the emissions equipment for that engine,also if it's a carb and you go fuel injection,it has to have the check engine light put in, and the diagnostic harness, if i remember correctly you go to a referee there for emissions,if you can show that the swap engine has all the proper equipment and the correct converters for that engine you shouldn't have too much problem.

[1987AccordLx-i]

guys... the unthinkable just happened today.. im getting on the freeway and i notice i dont have much power.. so i think that its just a little hot.. so then i get off the freeway and the oil light starts blinking again.. i stop and check the oil level.. its fine.. then i hear knocking coming from the bottom end and head.. i get to my friends shop and he tells me that this motors done.. anybody know where i can get an A20A3 for an 87 here in LA?:help:


heres a link to a vid i made of the noise... please let me know whats going on... im getting so many freakin answers its confusing...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bq3t0e6Qrw

[Oldblueaccord]

Yeah its blown. Rod or the pin. Sorry for you prolly not much you could have done about it.



wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

Yeah its blown. Rod or the pin. Sorry for you prolly not much you could have done about it.



wp

dam that was my worst fear... well thanks for the honesty man.. ill just drive her till her last rev.. then ill get the new motor

[A18A]

ill just drive her till her last rev.. then ill get the new motor:thumbup:

[1987AccordLx-i]

:cheers:
:thumbup:

to the max

[Oldblueaccord]

dam that was my worst fear... well thanks for the honesty man.. ill just drive her till her last rev.. then ill get the new motor


Not much else you can do.Maybe try thick oil or some additives to milk it along. Carry a cell phone and a wrecker drivers card in your wallet :bandit:


Evans autoparts here near me prolly still has motors but I dont know if they truck ship or not.


Down and dirty if your real ambitious you can pull the oil pan and fix the bad bearing,change the oil pump. Its what I call a redneck rebuild.

wp

[AccordB20A]

your engine bay may get very dirty when it goes (if it suddenly goes) otherwise it may just seize. I notice your the guy that asked me on youtube about getting a digidash and B20A engine. lol

i reckon you try and pick up a cheap; parts car and steal the a20a whatever engine from it, put all your intake and exhaust manifolds on it and you should be sweet if the parts car engine runs mint. you should consider a 5 speed swap also :)

[Dr_Snooz]

Major bummer man. Just stay away form Engine World, LLC here in Emeryville. They ship, but the guy's a real jerk.

To wit:
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64965&highlight=engine+world+llc

[lostforawhile]

how do you know it's the engine? if the pump goes and too little pressure bearings will knock also

[1987AccordLx-i]

how do you know it's the engine? if the pump goes and too little pressure bearings will knock also

well if i was getting too low oil psi... then wouldnt the light start flashing again??? besides this shit knocks beyond belief! i never knew sounds like that could come from the engine.. it sounds like a hammer being struck against concrete!

[lostforawhile]

well if i was getting too low oil psi... then wouldnt the light start flashing again??? besides this shit knocks beyond belief! i never knew sounds like that could come from the engine.. it sounds like a hammer being struck against concrete!are you sure you don't have a broken rod or busted crank or something? i've seen engines running with half a crank before, or if it broke a rod,this would explain why down on power, might be the broken pieces flopping around in there

[1987AccordLx-i]

are you sure you don't have a broken rod or busted crank or something? i've seen engines running with half a crank before, or if it broke a rod,this would explain why down on power, might be the broken pieces flopping around in there

nah man.. all cylinders are firing.. just the right side of the motor (viewed from front) knocks.. but this weekend im gunna put a new motor in it..

will a motor from an 88 work? mines an 87 and both engines are FI

[1987AccordLx-i]

your engine bay may get very dirty when it goes (if it suddenly goes) otherwise it may just seize. I notice your the guy that asked me on youtube about getting a digidash and B20A engine. lol

i reckon you try and pick up a cheap; parts car and steal the a20a whatever engine from it, put all your intake and exhaust manifolds on it and you should be sweet if the parts car engine runs mint. you should consider a 5 speed swap also :)

oh snap! that was you? so what do you say man? will i be able to get the digi speedo here in the states? is it the same connections as the analog ones? besides the speedo cable hookup

[1987AccordLx-i]

bump...




well guys... what do you say? will the a20a3 from an 88 work for my 87?

[1987AccordLx-i]

BUMP...





c'mon guys i need answers.. i have the a20a3 from an 88 model year accord.. will the intake manifold work with my stock 87 ecu???

[bobafett]

just use your 87 intake manifold and you will be good to go. 88-89 have some different components, so just save yourself the headache and only swap the head/block from the new engine. :)

[1987AccordLx-i]

just use your 87 intake manifold and you will be good to go. 88-89 have some different components, so just save yourself the headache and only swap the head/block from the new engine. :)

yeah im just swapping the intake manifold.. i dont see any way of my black box accepting the secondaries on the 88's engine.. so far its going good guys.. intake manifolds off the new engine and im awaiting tomorrow after work to start the teardown on the new motor.. wish me luck

[1987AccordLx-i]

just use your 87 intake manifold and you will be good to go. 88-89 have some different components, so just save yourself the headache and only swap the head/block from the new engine. :)

i had an idea... what if i just keep the secondaries "dead" as in not functional.. just open all the time.. will it work??? cuz ive seen how much bigger the 88s mani is and i would like it for mine but im not too sure of it