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View Full Version : suggestions for a new fuel pump.



turabaka
06-11-2008, 05:16 PM
Now that I finally have a bit of money to throw at my car I think I'm gonna replace my fuel pump with something aftermarket. My stock one doesn't output 3 psi all the time anymore, so I figure it's about time to swap it out for something better. Does anyone have any suggestions on what would be a good fuel pump to get? right now I've got a 38 Weber, and a 2.25 inch mandrel bent exhaust. I tried to do some searching, but didn't really come up with anything definite.

russiankid
06-11-2008, 05:23 PM
Do you want a intank pump or one thats out of the tank?

turabaka
06-11-2008, 06:21 PM
honestly it doesn't matter to me. Whatever is going to provide better performance.

russiankid
06-11-2008, 06:58 PM
Are you going to stay with a carb? Any future plans? Sorry I don't know which pump is best for you, but these type of question may help others to point you in the right direction.

Ichiban
06-11-2008, 07:01 PM
I assume Mallory, Carter, Edelbrock and most other performance companies offer upgrade electric fuel pumps. Could try there first. A built in fuel pressure regulator would be a bonus, if it's adjustable. Might help with something.

I've been running a cheapo Carter mounted to the framerail of my Toyota pickup. The first one died within a month or two, (and was warrantied) but this one's been good for a couple of years now, and lots of miles.

You want an external fuel pump, not in-tank.

turabaka
06-11-2008, 07:02 PM
yeah I plan on staying carbed. I'll probably rebuild the head somewhere down the line with a full port and polish with a 3 angle valve job, and a delta 272 cam. I'm also gonna get a header in the future as well.

edit: should probably add that I already have a holley fuel pressure regulator.

lostforawhile
06-11-2008, 07:06 PM
I assume Mallory, Carter, Edelbrock and most other performance companies offer upgrade electric fuel pumps. Could try there first. A built in fuel pressure regulator would be a bonus, if it's adjustable. Might help with something.

I've been running a cheapo Carter mounted to the framerail of my Toyota pickup. The first one died within a month or two, (and was warrantied) but this one's been good for a couple of years now, and lots of miles.

You want an external fuel pump, not in-tank.don't buy the carter intank pump for this car a glorious pile of dog shit

itzdave
06-11-2008, 07:23 PM
i have a carter in tank, and its fine for my 272 and p&p head and 2.25 exhaust and header with no black black box.

lostforawhile
06-11-2008, 07:28 PM
if you have a carb and want an underbody pump,i have researched for years,and this is the best suggestion, this pump is also self priming and will lift fuel 24 inches, this is really important with the fuel pickup being on top. you have to lift fuel out of the tank then it has to go down to the pump. best way to do this,modify an old fuel pump hanger,get rid of the pump,and mount some tubing in place of it with a filter sock on the end. this prevents you from haveing to add a bottom pickup to the tank. if you follow the fuel line from the filter,to before where it goes in the car, you will see a flat area in front of the drivers side rear wheel,this has two threaded mounting holes in it, this was originally for an underbody pump. i have figured out that if you modify the metal steering gear cover from a PS unit, it will fit almost perfectly over that area. this is to protect the pump from road debris. http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ click on fr series in the index, then look for the frd-2,this pump is perfect for carb applications in this car. one more important point, you need to keep the fuel pump relay for safety, but the wires that go to the factory pump,need to be used to operate a relay for the new pump. they just draw two much current for the factory relay.

lostforawhile
06-11-2008, 07:42 PM
i have a carter in tank, and its fine for my 272 and p&p head and 2.25 exhaust and header with no black black box.
i went through about 7 of them in a row,got the autozone brand one,been fine ever since, it's all that was available at the time. oreilies even quit carrying that carter in tank pump,manager here said so many came back,carter quit honoring the warranty. i had stupid crap break on them,like the valve that regulates the pressure,it fell out into my tank, i had to fish it and the check ball,and check spring out of the tank.

MessyHonda
06-11-2008, 11:48 PM
i remember a20a1 used like a z28 fuel pump that was like 4psi

rjudgey
06-12-2008, 02:23 PM
I use a Facet red top competition pump they are good for upto 250bhp you can run one or two as a backup or together if your feeding two giant carbs, one is sufficient for two DCOE's running a medium built engine. I use a king filter regulator with gauge and filter built in you can run the pump under the car, on the firewall inside the car in the boot anywhere you want just not in the tank. They are negative earth like stock ones and can use existing wiring never had an issue with mine although i did later on by pass the wiring as i got fed up of the realy cutting out the fuel when the car was laid up for a while with no power. Also having a fuel pump switch hidden is a good anti theft device as well!!! Noly down side to these pumps are they can make a liettle bit of noise but if iots outside the car you won't here it much anyways unless your stuck in traffic with windows down!! I like them a lot and they are very reliable have one on my Red lude which has been on my race car previously for about 4 years and still runs like new. They are sensitive to voltage though as i had 1 die on me when the laternator decided to blow up and over voltage everything at about 16-17 volts so make sure you never feed it anymore than 14.4 volts max. There cylindrical in shape and have two rubber mounts on them and you can get various size fittings for fuel pipes.

lostforawhile
06-12-2008, 03:34 PM
the fuel pump relay is there to save your ass if you get in a wreck, and there there is a fuel leak after an accident, the relay turns off the pump when the engine stops, normally in a wreck,the impact will stall the engine anyway. if it's bypassed fuel will keep being pumped from the tank and pouring out. what if you are knocked out or trapped in the car? as soon as the engine stops, the relay turns off the pump. if you are having priming problems,install a pushbutton switch between the pump and ignition + terminals on the relay, then you push the button for a few seconds and pump fuel up to the carbs. also if you are using a standard type fuel pump it might have trouble lifting fuel out of the tank, install a checkvalve where the fuel is being picked up inside of the tank,this will keep it from draining backwards

Ichiban
06-12-2008, 03:54 PM
i went through about 7 of them in a row, the valve that regulates the pressure,it fell out into my tank, i had to fish it and the check ball,and check spring out of the tank.

Fuck is that ever gay.

Hauntd ca3
06-12-2008, 11:44 PM
i'd prob suggest the facet pump as well
they're cheap and will supply more than you'll likely need

turabaka
06-17-2008, 07:59 PM
I use a Facet red top competition pump they are good for upto 250bhp you can run one or two as a backup or together if your feeding two giant carbs, one is sufficient for two DCOE's running a medium built engine. I use a king filter regulator with gauge and filter built in you can run the pump under the car, on the firewall inside the car in the boot anywhere you want just not in the tank. They are negative earth like stock ones and can use existing wiring never had an issue with mine although i did later on by pass the wiring as i got fed up of the realy cutting out the fuel when the car was laid up for a while with no power. Also having a fuel pump switch hidden is a good anti theft device as well!!! Noly down side to these pumps are they can make a liettle bit of noise but if iots outside the car you won't here it much anyways unless your stuck in traffic with windows down!! I like them a lot and they are very reliable have one on my Red lude which has been on my race car previously for about 4 years and still runs like new. They are sensitive to voltage though as i had 1 die on me when the laternator decided to blow up and over voltage everything at about 16-17 volts so make sure you never feed it anymore than 14.4 volts max. There cylindrical in shape and have two rubber mounts on them and you can get various size fittings for fuel pipes.

Can I get a link to that facet pump? I didn't see them on Summit so I'm wondering where I can pick one up.

rjudgey
06-18-2008, 01:20 PM
Hmmm not sure can't find any website for them for U.S. dealers kinda sucks might be under FSE had a quick look but didn't find anything on first page FSE make fuel pressure regulators as well nice ones too also for Honda's too but you won't be wanting that as it's FI.

Have a look at

www.Demon-tweeks.co.uk in motorsport section

lostforawhile
06-18-2008, 01:33 PM
Hmmm not sure can't find any website for them for U.S. dealers kinda sucks might be under FSE had a quick look but didn't find anything on first page FSE make fuel pressure regulators as well nice ones too also for Honda's too but you won't be wanting that as it's FI.

Have a look at

www.Demon-tweeks.co.uk in motorsport sectioni'll try to remember to look,we use facet pumps for transfer pumps for the airplanes.

stat1K
06-18-2008, 01:47 PM
there is a post on honda-tech.com in the crx/civic faq section in the ef section that has a list of out of tank inline pumps and inline filters that have all the stats... might be helpful...

Oldblueaccord
06-18-2008, 02:16 PM
For a carb pump I think a Holley blue with regulator runs about 100$. Im sure Summit sells them.

wp

rjudgey
06-18-2008, 02:32 PM
Got it is an American company found the link on a new boxed pump i have spare for my B20A weber conversion.

http://www.facet-purolator.com/

lostforawhile
06-18-2008, 02:37 PM
For a carb pump I think a Holley blue with regulator runs about 100$. Im sure Summit sells them.

wp
the reason i posted the one i was talking about,is it can lift fuel out of the tank dry. most pumps have to be mounted where fuel can flow from the tank bottom to the pump. they are a good carb match for our cars too.

rjudgey
06-20-2008, 03:03 PM
Facet cylindrical fuel pump will suck anything anywhere anytime pretty quickly too, just need to hook the fuel lin eto it and turn it on. Reliable and small so pretty easy to fit mines located where the stock 2G lude pump was which is under the car in front of the rear wheel arch works a treat from there although i had to paint mine with hammerite as it was getting grubby getting covered in road salt!!

Oldblueaccord
06-21-2008, 09:14 AM
the reason i posted the one i was talking about,is it can lift fuel out of the tank dry. most pumps have to be mounted where fuel can flow from the tank bottom to the pump. they are a good carb match for our cars too.

And the reason I posted mine is I am fimailar with it while I have never heard of yours(well its a walbro) I think it would be a great pump and I would recommend a good pressure regulator.

http://www.holley.com/12-802-1.asp


wp

lostforawhile
06-21-2008, 12:59 PM
And the reason I posted mine is I am fimailar with it while I have never heard of yours(well its a walbro) I think it would be a great pump and I would recommend a good pressure regulator.

http://www.holley.com/12-802-1.asp


wpwalbro has been around about 50 years, they used to sell their pumps under different names, like ac and such, they used to have breaker points in the pump,they re now all electronic. oh your pumps are available from pegasus racing now. they carry the entire line.

BITESIZE
06-21-2008, 01:27 PM
Trevor, Is that why your car was running like a shitter?

turabaka
06-22-2008, 12:15 AM
Trevor, Is that why your car was running like a shitter?

Naw man. I went to bow-wow the other day and asked them about it, and it turns out the problem was a misadjusted choke. The plates weren't opening all the way and so it never came off of the choke cycle completely. Caused that really annoying high idle problem. All fixed now, and it purrs like a kitten at idle around 800 rpm. All that trouble for a 1 minute fix.

MessyHonda
06-22-2008, 08:55 PM
Naw man. I went to bow-wow the other day and asked them about it, and it turns out the problem was a misadjusted choke. The plates weren't opening all the way and so it never came off of the choke cycle completely. Caused that really annoying high idle problem. All fixed now, and it purrs like a kitten at idle around 800 rpm. All that trouble for a 1 minute fix.



remember our stock tachs are not very accurate mine said i was doing like 900RPM at idle and on the computer it said i was doing 850....i have an obd1 swap so i can plug in a laptop to my ecu...very cool stuff.

turabaka
06-22-2008, 09:29 PM
^^ I actually adjusted my tach to match what the smog computer was saying my rpm's were. So I'm pretty sure it's accurate.

MessyHonda
06-22-2008, 10:35 PM
^^ I actually adjusted my tach to match what the smog computer was saying my rpm's were. So I'm pretty sure it's accurate.



how do you do that?

turabaka
06-23-2008, 12:39 AM
I pulled the needle off and put it at the right spot while I was smog testing it. It was a little but out of adjustment from when I installed my indiglows, but now it's dead on.