gold top engine, blacktop loom

[AccordB20A]

i has a gold top b20a in my car, with all the gold top parts. to use the gold top ECU on the blacktop loom i had to remove pin B13 and B15 from the ecu plugs and connect them to A8 on the large plug. this is all i did to make my car work. but on closer inspection of the ECU pinout between the gold top and blacktop JDM PH3 ECUs i notice the gold top TDC sensor uses pins C1 and C2 and the CYL sensor uses C3 and C4. On the black top ECU its the other way around. C1 and C2 do the CYL sensor and the TDC senor are on C3 and C4. i havent swapped them and the car runs with these sensors wired vice versa.
heres my problem..... the TDC sensor is in the dizzy and the CYL sensor is on the exhaust cam correct?

my problem is sometimes when i start my car i get a pgmfi light, car runs rough and the flashes about 15 times ( i think its 15 flashes) theres a IG led next to the fi one and it flashes once. any know why?!?!?!
when it does this it revlimits at like 4 and the tach goes crazy. could this be related to the ecu sensors not hooked up correctly?
i turn the car of and back on again and away the car goes, runs perfect.

does it heaps and i think my fuel milage could be better...

[carotman]

hmmm check the wires going to the igniter.

[AccordB20A]

Might have to check the wiring again under the seat. Cant wait to find a OBD1 ECU and DIZZY so i can run that :):)

what makes me wonder is why i rev it up till it does its gay limiter then turn the key off and on again and its normal

[AccordB20A]

so no one knows whether the Cylindr sensor and TDC sensor are causing this. the crank sensors for the ignition is working i think case the wires arent mucked up there.

[AccordB20A]

ok aparently the cyl sensor and tdc sensor wires are the same on both ecus. carotman might want to edit the 1986 PH3 pinout so its the same as the following:
C1:
CYL Sensor
Orange
C2:
CYL Sensor
White
C3:
TDC Sensor
Orange-Blue
C4:
TDC Sensor
White-Blue

also has ANYONE got any ideas on the 86-87 PH3 ecu what the codes for the IGNITION LED are. so far trying to diagnose this fault i have i have unplugged CYL Sensor to see if i got a TDC error code but i didnt so i found out the wiring is the same, i swapped ignitors with a know good one, still runs the same..... next thing is to swap the dizzy which i will do after posting this

when i unplug the ignitor signal ire from the ecu from the ecu the ignition led flashes twice, so i take it two flashes means the ignitors poked/missing.

next plan is to swap the dizzy and see if one flash on the ignition led means the crank sensors in the dizzy is poked, wish me luck

[AccordB20A]

havent replaced the dizzy yet, what i did was start the car, the pgmfi light stayed on on the dash and i held my foot to the floor and it revlimited at 4000rpm like it doesand then u unplugged the dizzy. and i cant explain it but the ig led flashes twice and the fi light flashes 9 times. why did i get this error code of 9 twice on two different sensors?? beginning to think maybe the ecu is poked but it shouldnt be. neways i should swap the dizzy and see if the problem goes away

[AccordB20A]

fail. the car doesnt start at all now with the new dizzy i know works

[bullard123]

Hope you find the problem out soon Wohdog. Im sure Carotman will see this thread soon and give you some advice

[AccordB20A]

well yeah i found two problems
a wire in the two round plugs was nearly pushed out and probably not connecting sometimes. and the other was a piss load of water in the dizzy. it needs a new seal. so until then im using the one i know works off the white car i recently got and it works fine now. no codes no ignition error codes while starting. ill see tomorrow in the cold cold air when i take the gf to work early on whether the problem is fully gone. but how it is now seems to pull pretty good. better than before.. no traction at the top of 1st gear and most of the way through 2nd so its got its power back.