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86ccord
07-09-2008, 05:42 PM
well i have just put my system together today.. and i have a 1000 watt system.. with a 10 inch sub.. ghettogetty knows what setup i have.. or should be familiar with it..well i think alot of it has to do with my amp being crap.. but still idk my main question is, is our backseats in the sedan's like super thick? or do we have alot of sound deadning stuff between the trunk and cabin? or how can i fix it.. cause when my bro had the same set up as me i couldnt talk it was hitting so hard.. now i could wisper to my passenger and they would hear me..idk.. i need help..LOL

my next question is how much is a cheap good 1000 watt amp run for? and brands..


thanks,

sp.

irondragon013
07-09-2008, 06:29 PM
My sub points towards the back of my seat in my car and it gets a hell of a lot louder if I put the rear seat down. The last I checked the back of the seat is made of metal. The seat kills a good bit of the bass. Also the max power is not what you want to look at with amps. The RMS wattage for the amp should match up to your sub.

tenchimuyo93
07-09-2008, 07:48 PM
best thing i have seen done for sedans is to port the rear deck. it will do 2 things at once, first it will funnel the moving air {bass} towards the rear window to be reflected to all points forward setting up a better sound stage. second it will create a sort of bandpass effect filtering out certain Hz like the real bandpass box.


that what i would do anyway, as for amps. well max power isnt always best. say your subs are 200rms/600max. but your 600 watt amp does 350rms. thats bad for the subs. so like said above find the highest rms rated amp for your sub without breaking the limit of the sub.

86ccord
07-09-2008, 07:55 PM
My sub points towards the back of my seat in my car and it gets a hell of a lot louder if I put the rear seat down. The last I checked the back of the seat is made of metal. The seat kills a good bit of the bass. Also the max power is not what you want to look at with amps. The RMS wattage for the amp should match up to your sub.

hmm yeah i figured it was the seat.. well i think im going to go shopping for a new amp and see what i can do.. or just read the booklet on my amp and see if my RMS is the same or close to my sub.. thanks..

now folding down the seat.. i used to do that until i just got lazy and forgot to put it back up and people can see all my stuff and possible break in.. hmm maybe i need tinted windows..LOL i think for now ill jsut ride with the seat down.. thanks again!


best thing i have seen done for sedans is to port the rear deck. it will do 2 things at once, first it will funnel the moving air {bass} towards the rear window to be reflected to all points forward setting up a better sound stage. second it will create a sort of bandpass effect filtering out certain Hz like the real bandpass box.


that what i would do anyway, as for amps. well max power isnt always best. say your subs are 200rms/600max. but your 600 watt amp does 350rms. thats bad for the subs. so like said above find the highest rms rated amp for your sub without breaking the limit of the sub.


now, how would i make a port? cut a hole for my rear deck or what?

i understand about the RMS i never even thought about that.. ill look into it more.. thanks!

tenchimuyo93
07-09-2008, 08:05 PM
yea just cut thru the rear deck with a hole saw the size of what ever size port you get. to make it easier try to aim for where the steel supports are missing so you only have to cut thru the panel.


5" or 6" ports would be what id try to find.

MessyHonda
07-09-2008, 11:58 PM
buy quality stuff....my amp and sub cost more than what i paid for my car.

2oodoor
07-10-2008, 03:38 AM
My sub points towards the back of my seat in my car and it gets a hell of a lot louder if I put the rear seat down. The last I checked the back of the seat is made of metal. The seat kills a good bit of the bass. Also the max power is not what you want to look at with amps. The RMS wattage for the amp should match up to your sub.

irondragon are you still driving the Accord lxi?

86ccord
07-10-2008, 04:52 AM
buy quality stuff....my amp and sub cost more than what i paid for my car.

LOL my system costed 1000 dollars.. i only payed 300 dollars for my car.. does that count? :D but i think im just going to buy a new amp cause the one i have is prolly shot..

MessyHonda
07-10-2008, 07:27 AM
LOL my system costed 1000 dollars.. i only payed 300 dollars for my car.. does that count? :D but i think im just going to buy a new amp cause the one i have is prolly shot..



damn....i feel bad...what i should of said buy new stuff...i did after i got a mest up amp from this one guy...worked fine till it heated up..haha

86ccord
07-10-2008, 08:35 AM
damn....i feel bad...what i should of said buy new stuff...i did after i got a mest up amp from this one guy...worked fine till it heated up..haha

lol nah, your fine.. i know what you meant.. i think im going to buy another sub ( 10inch) and get a new amp then i think i will be satisfyed.. btw if you dont mind me asking, what set up are you running messy? any pictures?

Hans
07-10-2008, 09:11 AM
x2 for what everybody's said so far, there's one more thing though... you also need to make sure that the box your sub is in is the right deminsions. Havin to small a box will hold back the subs potential while too big a box is bad as well. And with proper porting (width and length of port tube) you'llbe able to maximize the frequencies you wanna hear.

86ccord
07-10-2008, 04:51 PM
x2 for what everybody's said so far, there's one more thing though... you also need to make sure that the box your sub is in is the right deminsions. Havin to small a box will hold back the subs potential while too big a box is bad as well. And with proper porting (width and length of port tube) you'llbe able to maximize the frequencies you wanna hear.

yah, lol my dimensions are correct, cause when i built my box, before doing so i called kenwood and they told me what to do so i think thats right.. i just think its that metal backseat causeing it not to hit hard as i would like to.. cause i experimented today and rode with the seat up and ddown and with it down it hit hard just like i like it.. so its the seat.. LOL but thanks everyone...

anymore suggestions?

irondragon013
07-10-2008, 06:00 PM
Porting the rear deck sounds like a good idea. You could probably cover the hole a speaker grill.

86ccord
07-10-2008, 07:18 PM
Porting the rear deck sounds like a good idea. You could probably cover the hole a speaker grill.

True.. very true.. but i have stock speaker grills.. so i would have to find something or make something to match.. hmm.. that is a good idea..

Ayeobe
08-08-2008, 07:03 PM
What a friend of mine did when he put subs in his trunk was just...not install rear speakers. Basically that makes you the holes straight up, right? I doubt if the speakers are nessesary once you have the big sub out back.

2oodoor
08-09-2008, 08:46 AM
I dont have anything to add except if you do drill into metal , vacuum up every single drill shaving you make.. those can get into your speakers, and are also seeds for rust.
and of course make sure you did not get a speaker out of phase (polarity)
If you are going to run them in series or paralell, follow the correct wiring you start out with.

itzdave
08-09-2008, 09:13 AM
What a friend of mine did when he put subs in his trunk was just...not install rear speakers. Basically that makes you the holes straight up, right? I doubt if the speakers are nessesary once you have the big sub out back.

no, u DO need the other speakers, otherwise the sound quality will be crap

86ccord
08-10-2008, 04:41 PM
no, u DO need the other speakers, otherwise the sound quality will be crap

yeah.. well guys well i the person who tuned my amp and system did it wrong.. found that out like, the other day and so i found out how to tune it and it sounds alot better.. and hits alot harder.. im happy with it.. :D thanks guys!

Hauntd ca3
08-15-2008, 03:16 PM
as for amps. well max power isnt always best. say your subs are 200rms/600max. but your 600 watt amp does 350rms. thats bad for the subs. so like said above find the highest rms rated amp for your sub without breaking the limit of the sub.

i've always run an amp that has way more watts rms than.the sub will take.
the theory behind that is you can run the subs at there max without running the amp very hard.
is always better to have heaps of headroom left in the amp. subs are cheap, amps arnt
and at least that way when you decide to upgrade you subs, you dont need a bigger amp

86ccord
08-15-2008, 07:22 PM
i've always run an amp that has way more watts rms than.the sub will take.
the theory behind that is you can run the subs at there max without running the amp very hard.
is always better to have heaps of headroom left in the amp. subs are cheap, amps arnt
and at least that way when you decide to upgrade you subs, you dont need a bigger amp

true. very true, yeah amps are hella expensive..

OldSkoolA20accord
08-15-2008, 08:00 PM
I have a mephis audio 15 and a kenwood 1500watt amp in my hatch jjust to let everyone know!. lol
it hits so hard it cracked my 3rd brake light.(i have no clue how)

upgrading to two lanzar 15s and a lanzar 4800 watt 2 channel amp.

I think it should hit pretty hard.

im also getting a lanzar 4 channel amp and like 4 sets of tweeters.

Hauntd ca3
08-15-2008, 09:15 PM
I have a mephis audio 15 and a kenwood 1500watt amp in my hatch jjust to let everyone know!. lol
it hits so hard it cracked my 3rd brake light.(i have no clue how)

upgrading to two lanzar 15s and a lanzar 4800 watt 2 channel amp.

I think it should hit pretty hard.

im also getting a lanzar 4 channel amp and like 4 sets of tweeters.

before i pulled the system out i ran 2 jbl gt102 subs and a phoenix gold amp, and it was HEAPS loud nuff 4 me. oh and kenwood dual mag 6.25 splits in the front
dont see the point in much more than that
but i dont listen to Crap or tecno
gimme AC/DC:rockon:

86ccord
08-16-2008, 05:50 AM
I have a mephis audio 15 and a kenwood 1500watt amp in my hatch jjust to let everyone know!. lol
it hits so hard it cracked my 3rd brake light.(i have no clue how)

upgrading to two lanzar 15s and a lanzar 4800 watt 2 channel amp.

I think it should hit pretty hard.

im also getting a lanzar 4 channel amp and like 4 sets of tweeters.

memphis? hell yeah my friend has two 10's and 1200 memphis amp in his 07 civic Si and that shit hits hard as hell.. too much for me.. LOL

-$MOKIN-
08-18-2008, 03:53 PM
A set up i had in my old 3g was i put two six by nines in between the two existing speaker covers so it looked like it had 4 6 by 9's in the back and then i just left out the other stock speakers and left it open with 2 12 inch kickers in the back sounded good. i went with 3 way 6 by 9's to get tweeters in the back. All of that stuff got stolen in the end. Aong with my reciver. but it was a good solution for the bass that i had stuck in the trunk. and ended up sounding really good when i did that.I also had my box faced towards the back to amplify the bass. then i went and bought these cheap 1 inch tweeters from walmart or something beacuse it was late at night lol and i installed them in the front by the front windshield and the visor becuase all my sound was in the back and put in some infinity 5 inch in the door messed with the eq and it was all around soundin good.

86ccord
08-19-2008, 12:47 PM
A set up i had in my old 3g was i put two six by nines in between the two existing speaker covers so it looked like it had 4 6 by 9's in the back and then i just left out the other stock speakers and left it open with 2 12 inch kickers in the back sounded good. i went with 3 way 6 by 9's to get tweeters in the back. All of that stuff got stolen in the end. Aong with my reciver. but it was a good solution for the bass that i had stuck in the trunk. and ended up sounding really good when i did that.I also had my box faced towards the back to amplify the bass. then i went and bought these cheap 1 inch tweeters from walmart or something beacuse it was late at night lol and i installed them in the front by the front windshield and the visor becuase all my sound was in the back and put in some infinity 5 inch in the door messed with the eq and it was all around soundin good.



ive been thinking about getting some tweets.. but idk.. how'd yours work out for you?

-$MOKIN-
08-19-2008, 03:10 PM
well since i had 3 ways in the back i couldnt get the full effect so i put those 1 inch twetsin the front.made the whole thing sound way better

ghettogeddy
08-19-2008, 03:52 PM
you know as ling as the sub is facing the rear of the car and its ported you should get one hell of a thump
you can lay the seat down to get more air movement

i have prolly one of the cheapest setups around price wise lol i people freak out when they hera it lol
i paid 15 bucks for my 10" sub and free.99 for my amp
sup is an infinity 1052w and amp is a 300 watt F&F lighting audio

you want to look at the watts the sup will hold in rms
and match that to rms of the amp
or at least get close to it


i remember talking to you about it but cant remeber what setup you have

ghettogeddy
08-19-2008, 03:54 PM
i've always run an amp that has way more watts rms than.the sub will take.
the theory behind that is you can run the subs at there max without running the amp very hard.
is always better to have heaps of headroom left in the amp. subs are cheap, amps arnt
and at least that way when you decide to upgrade you subs, you dont need a bigger amp

your out of your mind lol

not like you will blow a shit load of subs
but fuck


and if you rms on the sub is smaller then the rms of the amp sometimes that will cause the amp to over load

Hauntd ca3
08-19-2008, 11:02 PM
what i should have said is
using an amp that is rated lower than your subs is more likely to blow subs up
cause when you crank the volume to max, chances are that unless you run a competition head unit with grunty as outputs, your head unit will will send what is called a clipped signal to the amp. which in turn just amps a distorted signal and sends it to the sub
having an amp with haeps of power lets you keep the headunit sub output turned down so its sending a nice clean signal, you send a nice clean signal that is 6v or better to your amp lets you keep the amps gains turned down and still make good clean output power.
a big amp thats cruising outputing a clean 200w is going to be safer for your subs than a 200w amp being maxed out and clipping all the time.
from time to time i work with my dad in professional sound reinforcement doing PA's for touring kiwi bands
we learned that driving a 2000w sub hard with a 2000w amp melts voice coils
but driving the same subs with a 4000w amp keeps them alive
sounds screwy i know, but its what i know and i've never blown a sub or mid/upper by having to much power
what generally blows amps is either driving it to hard to long with a clipped signal
fucking up ypu speaker wiring and getting the impedence way to low
or not having the power supply up to the amps demands

ghettogeddy
08-20-2008, 11:03 AM
what i should have said is
using an amp that is rated lower than your subs is more likely to blow subs up
cause when you crank the volume to max, chances are that unless you run a competition head unit with grunty as outputs, your head unit will will send what is called a clipped signal to the amp. which in turn just amps a distorted signal and sends it to the sub
having an amp with haeps of power lets you keep the headunit sub output turned down so its sending a nice clean signal, you send a nice clean signal that is 6v or better to your amp lets you keep the amps gains turned down and still make good clean output power.
a big amp thats cruising outputing a clean 200w is going to be safer for your subs than a 200w amp being maxed out and clipping all the time.
from time to time i work with my dad in professional sound reinforcement doing PA's for touring kiwi bands
we learned that driving a 2000w sub hard with a 2000w amp melts voice coils
but driving the same subs with a 4000w amp keeps them alive
sounds screwy i know, but its what i know and i've never blown a sub or mid/upper by having to much power
what generally blows amps is either driving it to hard to long with a clipped signal
fucking up ypu speaker wiring and getting the impedence way to low
or not having the power supply up to the amps demands

that makes a lil more sense lol but still 200 vs 4000 is a big number i could see 200 vs 400 or 600
but not 4k lol

its ok to go a lil over but not way overboard

-$MOKIN-
08-20-2008, 01:08 PM
There is better things to put money into beides a stereo for me right now.If i do it its alwyas been on the deal. With someone i know that needs money.

MessyHonda
08-20-2008, 11:13 PM
what i did is buy a 1000 watt amp and i only use once channel on my 500 watt sub...so later i can buy another matching sub or just buy one super 1000 RMS sub...but for now my alpine type R is doing fine..hits hard for 1 10

Hauntd ca3
08-20-2008, 11:25 PM
that makes a lil more sense lol but still 200 vs 4000 is a big number i could see 200 vs 400 or 600
but not 4k lol

its ok to go a lil over but not way overboard

sorry if i was misunderstood
i didnt mean 10 x the sub power for an amp
i usually work on 50% to 100% more than the subs rms rating
preferably the latter or close to it

AccordB20A
08-21-2008, 12:06 AM
i hate it how people work using the peak amp power. i dont even listen to that. Im in the process of upgrading my 300w rms to a 600w rms X 2. My subs a 400w rms 1000w max wonder how thats going to go lol. i may also need tol uopgrade my sub to a DVC that can handle the 600w rms on each coil. i only want 1 sub cause i like my boot space.

Hauntd ca3
08-21-2008, 12:32 AM
i hate it how people work using the peak amp power. i dont even listen to that. Im in the process of upgrading my 300w rms to a 600w rms X 2. My subs a 400w rms 1000w max wonder how thats going to go lol. i may also need tol uopgrade my sub to a DVC that can handle the 600w rms on each coil. i only want 1 sub cause i like my boot space.

the chances of the amp actually making that 600w is pretty slim
it'll only make that occasionaly, and then only for milliseconds.
rms is still a bit misleading unless you know what it all means
it may make that 600w and do it without stressing to much, but only under certain circumstances.
if you can get a hold of a program called bass box pro, you can put your sub theil small parameters in it and the dimentions of the box its in and it will calculate frquency response,spl,and the interesting one, a resistance curve of the speaker at diff frequencies
you'd find that a 4ohm speaker will present a load of any where between 2 and 200 or more ohms depending on the frquency and you can work out where the amp will make that 600w
sub amps tend to make there rated power at bout 100hz and a full range amp at bout 1000hz
read your amp specs sheet to find out where its rated power is made

AccordB20A
08-21-2008, 01:08 AM
the chances of the amp actually making that 600w is pretty slim
it'll only make that occasionaly, and then only for milliseconds.
rms is still a bit misleading unless you know what it all means
it may make that 600w and do it without stressing to much, but only under certain circumstances.
if you can get a hold of a program called bass box pro, you can put your sub theil small parameters in it and the dimentions of the box its in and it will calculate frquency response,spl,and the interesting one, a resistance curve of the speaker at diff frequencies
you'd find that a 4ohm speaker will present a load of any where between 2 and 200 or more ohms depending on the frquency and you can work out where the amp will make that 600w
sub amps tend to make there rated power at bout 100hz and a full range amp at bout 1000hz
read your amp specs sheet to find out where its rated power is made

yeah my mates into that shit. he designed my slot ported box with bass box pro i believe. using the sub i have. tuned it to 35hz i believe.

the chances of me using all 600w rms is pretty thin. the amp i got now can hurt shit out of your ears and reajust you door side wing mirrors and be heard over 300 meters away. and its a cheap made in china so called "300w rms" amplifier.

Hauntd ca3
08-21-2008, 01:30 PM
i used to be into the car audio scene back in the day
when it was all about quality and staging and installation
but know its all bout spl and i cant be fucked with those dickheads
the system in my 5g is loud nuff for me with a total of 400w rms and i have industrial hearing loss.
helped build a system with my dad with 200w that placed 4th at the regionals and a mates primera with 600w that placed 4th at the nationals
cool thing was that my dads system had no fancy processing and still sounds real nice 12 years later but my mates primera had all the alpine ai net optical time alignment and real fancy shit and didnt sound much better at a $20k price tag vs my dads $2k

AccordB20A
08-22-2008, 01:11 AM
flash owe. i just fixed a cheap amp my mate gave me. thats the 3rd free amp i have fixed. power mosfets allways die

i got 131.9db from a single 12" in a sedan :) from a cheap old 12" pioneer at the last sound off i went to

86ccord
08-22-2008, 12:27 PM
flash owe. i just fixed a cheap amp my mate gave me. thats the 3rd free amp i have fixed. power mosfets allways die

i got 131.9db from a single 12" in a sedan :) from a cheap old 12" pioneer at the last sound off i went to

hell yeah! lol