lowering q

[mastaofdisasta]

If i lower 2.25 inches on stock rims and tires are my tires gonna rub the body? It sure seems like it willl....

Also is it possible to do tokico shocks with a 2.25 or 1.5 lowering spring? I read the sticky but im wondering if anyonehas done it and if so hows it work?

actually after research im tihnkin 1.5 is teh best

[ghettogeddy]

If i lower 2.25 inches on stock rims and tires are my tires gonna rub the body? It sure seems like it willl....

Also is it possible to do tokico shocks with a 2.25 or 1.5 lowering spring? I read the sticky but im wondering if anyonehas done it and if so hows it work?

actually after research im tihnkin 1.5 is teh best

im lowared all the way on coilovers and i dotn rub i have 195-50-15's

and the tokico struts seem to be holding up

[gfrg88]

yeah, i also was lowered like 3" on 15s and didnt rub at all...

[knarg]

i have a 205/50/15 with a 2.25 drop on konis and i rub a little in the rear on the outer fender lip... but the fenders can be rolled and i need negative camber, which will also help clear the outboard fender lip

[markmdz89hatch]

On stock wheels/tires you should not rub at all no matter how low you go.

If you go with different wheels/tires (like 15's w/ 205/50/15 [which IMO is a great setup]) the tire is not the determining factor as to whether or not you'll rub. With this tire size, rubbing is entirely dependent on what your wheel offset is.

As to my recommendation on going that low... The cheapest and safest way to an economy drop is to cut the stock springs, and put on Toki's. You can do KYB GR-2's or any other aftermarket, but most of the aftermarkets (except Toki, Koni, or Bill) are nothing more then stock valving. That said, Toki's are the least expensive "upgrade" to your stockers.

If you're pockets are deep enough, I would suggest GC c/o's on revalved Koni Reds or Bill's. Either way, you're well north of a grand with going this route. In fact, Koni Reds will probably run you a min of 300 for stockers, then another 1400-1600 to revalve, rebuild, shorten, and double-external adjust from Koni. Add that to the already pricey GC's, and you're pocket will be screaming, but your car will undoubtedly ride like it's on rails. DZ c/o's are stiff as hell right out of the box, but their quality is unknown. In fact, I've been considering getting a set to beat the snot out of once my car is back on the road/track to see just how well they'll hold up compared to the GC's.

WARNING: IF you choose to go the route of cut springs on Toki's, you have to remember, you're cutting some of the stiffer coils (because the stockers are progressive springs), and reducing your travel, so you will need to be more careful on road dips, speed bumps, seriously hard turning, and other things that may make your suspension bottom out.

Trust me when I tell you the last thing you want is to start banging away on your bump-stops. There was a member here about 4-5 years ago with an SE-i in NYC, and due to a lowering, and the beating the city roads put on this car, he ended up cracking his strut towers in the front, which basically renders the car useless without some serious reinforcing by way of steel strapping welded from strut-tower top right on down to the bottom.

The one thing I can't stress enough NOT to do, is get any aftermarket spring (other then Neuspeed, H&R, or Eibach [questionably]) and use Toki's. Toki's are a great upgrade on stock springs, but are useless and dangerous on nearly all aftermarket springs or c/o's.

Sorry for the long post.

[w261w261]

I think a lot of people start out by thinking that "the lower it is, the cooler-looking it is." Maybe or maybe not, but cars also drive down the road, and are supposed to provide some level of comfort and performance when they do it. Most of the drops done by people here effectively remove suspension travel to reduce ride height, and 2 1/2" is A LOT. Do you really want to bang over bumps, and feel every pebble? Tiny suspension travel and small sidewall tires will do that to you. Your passengers, particularly women, will wonder what the *** you did to mess up your ride. To me, it ain't worth it. Go with a 1 or 1.5" max drop, coordinate the springs and the shocks so that things work well, and you'll be better off for it.

[ghettogeddy]

I think a lot of people start out by thinking that "the lower it is, the cooler-looking it is." Maybe or maybe not, but cars also drive down the road, and are supposed to provide some level of comfort and performance when they do it. Most of the drops done by people here effectively remove suspension travel to reduce ride height, and 2 1/2" is A LOT. Do you really want to bang over bumps, and feel every pebble? Tiny suspension travel and small sidewall tires will do that to you. Your passengers, particularly women, will wonder what the *** you did to mess up your ride. To me, it ain't worth it. Go with a 1 or 1.5" max drop, coordinate the springs and the shocks so that things work well, and you'll be better off for it.

ya this is true i have no prob with the bumps and such but every one else complains about it lol

[MessyHonda]

i only rub because i have wide tires on my rims....its hard to rub tho...it must be a really big dip going like 90mph

[codyJDM]

I was lowered 2.25" on the stock 87 lxi-i wheels/60 profile tires and they cleared just fine

[frantik]

other then Neuspeed, H&R, or Eibach [questionably]

maybe eibach pro-kit or whatever but sportlines drop pretty low


Do you really want to bang over bumps, and feel every pebble? Tiny suspension travel and small sidewall tires will do that to you. Your passengers, particularly women, will wonder what the *** you did to mess up your ride. To me, it ain't worth it.

yeah lowering will stiffen the ride.. though when i upgraded my sway bars it smoothed out a lot of the really harsh ride. still feel the road but it's not jarring when i hit a bump

[AccordB20A]

myother accord is lowered like 2.5"on stock shocks and they bottom out all the time loudly. Ive never had any wheels bigger than 14" to know whether issues will happen.