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View Full Version : Engine oil burning '86 JDM A18A



Teratani
08-17-2008, 02:19 AM
Sorry for open a new thread but it's impossible editing title for previous thread

Now I can explain better the situation about engine oil burning, cause I drove behind my dad 2 days ago.

Car smoke most of the cases when car is on downhill...when release throttle it starts very little smoke, but when re-press throttle car release a lot of smoke. Then the situation goes normal after 50-100m.
When car is on plain this work come out very very lower.
When car is on uphill this work isn' t come out at all.
After 100km at speed about 80-100km/h (about 50mph-60mph) we've checked oil level and it wasn't go down, so I can say burning oil is not too much


Also if I park car in downhill for some hours, when I restart is a big problem....a lot of smoke come out and for some seconds car works on 3 cylinders... This work is proportional to downhill inclination percentage.

So if I park on plain or uphill, everything is ok.


I can't take a picture of engine bay where I see leaks...
Anyway I can see clearly leaks come out from "Blow-By-case" hose from valves train to air filter. We've checked "Blow-By-Filter" and was completely stuck (22 years old ). It's fresh engine oil, so the leaks is real. Anyway if I change Blow-By Filter, oil leaks shouldn't go into carburetor? And if it's so, this sholudn't be a disaster for carburetor?

If it's piston rings worn out shouldn't make this game in any condition regardless uphill/downhill and opened/closed throttle? Besides car has not high milleage...about 100k miles

Another interesting thing: compression test of engine is ok (Honda dealer made it).


So, what should I do? it's a bad idea continue driving car like this? Or add engine oil when it's go down is the simplest way?


-Another Question. I would change far thermosensor placed in the bottom of radiator, but I scare cause radiator is old and if I remove thermosensor I wouldn't make some scratch on radiator. The matter now is fan is wired as run for all time at ignition start.
I've just replace the same part on '88 Prelude (about same years old) and everything was ok.

Oldblueaccord
08-17-2008, 02:30 PM
I got a 92 accord burning oil too so I ask kinda the same question.

To me your description sounds like bad valves since they usually let little oil by when there bad so you wont see much being used. The cold start smoke is also a sign.

I'n my case I think I have worn oil rings since my car seems to use about a quart every 500 miles and I notice it smoking out the back on high rpm upshifts. I do not have the smoking at idle or cold start.

Those two theorys are just mine and I am up to changing my mind.

In your case a leak down test should be performed to figure out which it is. Compressed air is put into the cylinders and you listen for where it escapes from. Google it there some good write ups on it out there.

Also change your PVC and make sure the top of the motor is not sludged up.


wp

Dr_Snooz
08-17-2008, 09:00 PM
x2 on the valves. Sounds like bad valve guide seals to me. I had an '82 that smoked at startup. Compression was good, but the oil would seep down through the valve guides overnight as the car sat.

Teratani
08-17-2008, 11:20 PM
Ok. For oil leaks issue I just know about PCV valve or something related oil recycle oil, carotman told me. But it is not very easy to fix I guess. Repair manual not say too much regard it.
I'll make some google for leaks test.

So valve guide for oil burning...I think the same way


Anyway next week I can take a picture of the engine bay.


OT: anybody know if JDM Accord 86 has a ECU? Under seat I discovery a box with a spot with LED...it seems a ECU...but my car is carburated not injection. On dashboard there is a Indicator in the same position of chek engine(most left) for cars equipped with PGM-FI. It's a strange indicator, there isn't in any other car...something related emission controls I think. I'll take a picture as well.

Hauntd ca3
08-18-2008, 12:46 AM
i'd say valve guides and seals are on the way out eh
seals are easy to replace but the guides are best left to someone with the right gear.
they have to be bored to get the correct clearance to the valve stem
but both really require removal of the head

Oldblueaccord
08-18-2008, 05:36 AM
Well you have a JDM motor but I still think it would have a pcv valve for it. Its in the intake and a hose runs usually to the valve cover. That should narrow it down.

I no there pics on here if you do some searching. Also buy the valve so you no what it looks like. It fits in with a rubber gromut so its no big deal to change.



http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13SE00_E08.gif

Its #4 on the picture but it does not help the location and thats on an A20 motor.

wp

Teratani
08-18-2008, 11:50 AM
PCV hard to find it I guess...I can do my best.


Anyway for valve guide and seal that's mean is the same work as change head gasket...so I need a complete head gasket kit I guess...besides in this country this is a expensive work...for a 12 valves over 700€....about 1000 dollars.

Teratani
08-25-2008, 10:25 PM
Here some pics:



Is this box with LED a ECU or something like that? It's under driver seat

http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/7763/hpim0664re8.jpg

http://img365.imageshack.us/img365/636/hpim0664sj8.jpg



This is the engine bay. U can see air suction valve cracked...any trouble?


http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/5974/hpim0663rkp9.jpg

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/8083/hpim0663rhw4.jpg




Here, where leak is, that oil coming from "blow by case" is just above that oil sputtered yellow case

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/1676/hpim0662ub1.jpg

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/983/hpim0661ka1.jpg


http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/3370/hpim0662fs1.jpg

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/6950/hpim0661rs8.jpg




What's that strange indicator mmost left? it's an indicator that not appear in any US-EU cars any brands, only in japanese cars. This indicator is ON, I make a write up for OFF it but problems still I think. LED on the box under seat not blinking at all cause there is a wire no connected and I don't know where thata wire should be go...

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/8928/hpim0666db6.jpg

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/3672/hpim0666wi2.jpg

Dr_Snooz
08-26-2008, 07:54 AM
Someone who knows the carbed engine should weigh in here. I think this is the PCV/ breather box assembly leaking. My whole system was a mess. I ended up replacing all hoses, the box and the PCV valve to fix the leaks. It just gets old, brittle and porous. The idea is to vent gas-laden crankcase vapors back through the combustion chamber to improve emissions. The breather box gets these vapors, along with a lot of oil blown into it. The oil stays there and trickles back down, while the vapors continue up.

It's all very difficult to reach and a pain to fix unless you remove the engine. There's no real problem other than the oil consumption and the mess. I'd say ignore it.

As for your valves, I'd highly recommend you take the car to a good mechanic for a proper diagnosis. Dropping $1000 on an old car because some guy on a discussion board thought you should is not a wise use of money.

Hope that helps.


PS: I'm not seeing the cracked hose in the second photo.

Teratani
08-26-2008, 09:42 AM
Someone who knows the carbed engine should weigh in here. I think this is the PCV/ breather box assembly leaking. My whole system was a mess. I ended up replacing all hoses, the box and the PCV valve to fix the leaks. It just gets old, brittle and porous. The idea is to vent gas-laden crankcase vapors back through the combustion chamber to improve emissions. The breather box gets these vapors, along with a lot of oil blown into it. The oil stays there and trickles back down, while the vapors continue up.

It's all very difficult to reach and a pain to fix unless you remove the engine. There's no real problem other than the oil consumption and the mess. I'd say ignore it.

As for your valves, I'd highly recommend you take the car to a good mechanic for a proper diagnosis. Dropping $1000 on an old car because some guy on a discussion board thought you should is not a wise use of money.

Hope that helps.


PS: I'm not seeing the cracked hose in the second photo.

I see. Sure, at the moment I'm looking for gather more information as possible. Unfortuntaley in my country anybody dosen't know Honda wery well, besides this is a JDM...so it's very difficult for this people. It's a miracle thata somebody has fix torque convertes issue succeesfully.
So this board of 3gen Accord fans is the only place where I can explain problems related to my car :cheers:


For the cracks there's the air suction valve cracked...sorry. Now I mark the point with a red circle, it's just above oil engine cap on left..
Here links to big pic:

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/8083/hpim0663rhw4.jpg

Oldblueaccord
08-26-2008, 10:41 AM
That cracked pipe I think is part of the EGR valve curcuit. It goes back to your exhaust manifold.

The box under your set does appear to be an ECU and the light blinking would mean it has a code=meaning a fault, in the system.

That light on your dash board looks like a picture of your catalytic converter.


wp

Dr_Snooz
08-26-2008, 11:24 AM
Unfortuntaley in my country anybody dosen't know Honda wery well, besides this is a JDM...so it's very difficult for this people.

That's bizarre. I wouldn't think it would matter that much. An engine is an engine. It's not like the JDMs run on Fruit Loops and Pixie Dust. Any decent repair facility should be able to perform a leak-down test and tell you if the valves are leaking. They should also be able to find an oil leak without difficulty.

Anyway, my money says that crack is why your cat light is on. If you get too much air across a cat, you can really confuse it and possibly burn it up. If that crack is in your intake manifold it could cause all kinds of emissions and running problems.

Teratani
08-27-2008, 09:46 AM
That's bizarre. I wouldn't think it would matter that much. An engine is an engine. It's not like the JDMs run on Fruit Loops and Pixie Dust. Any decent repair facility should be able to perform a leak-down test and tell you if the valves are leaking. They should also be able to find an oil leak without difficulty.

Anyway, my money says that crack is why your cat light is on. If you get too much air across a cat, you can really confuse it and possibly burn it up. If that crack is in your intake manifold it could cause all kinds of emissions and running problems.

In my experience this car is always be as a pandora's box for local mechanics even Honda Dealer. They doesn't know at all about this car, maybe cause I live in Italy :( . See my torque converter thread for example. From 1990 when my dad took car on Honda Dealer for routine checking honda people need to fax Japan for details instruction about fixing, is not a joke. That car was always a problem for fixing anything, anything it becomes a big deal. It's very funny cause this is a 1987' car...

Even some parts is differents from EU-US versions...from transmission (N6 vs F4) to electrical systems. So I always be careful on that car and I cannot trust any mechanic very easy without before ask in this board.

If I must tell history of this car about fixing and trouble u sure take a lot of laugh...or crying :) This car is a survivor of these damn italian mechanics. :)

Oldblueaccord
08-27-2008, 09:57 AM
Actually there are not alot of people that work on Italian cars here so maybe thats not as surprising. :D

Unless you have some kind of emission standard to met you could have the converter removed if it gets clogged. Recycle it there have some precious metals in them that are worth alot of money. That light could also be for the Oxygen sensor also.

As far a the valve job. Its really a standard valve job on a single cam,aluminium head. Any automotive machine shop that rebuilds motors on cars should be able to do this. Of course as long as they could get new parts. The head has to be removed and taken to the shop for them to do it.


wp

Dr_Snooz
08-27-2008, 01:03 PM
Oh. Italy. That makes sense. The Japanese cars are too reliable, too easy to work on and way, way too slow. They're trying their best to correct all that, but you keep preventing them! :rofl:

Just kidding.

I'll tell you that I absolutely would not let ANYONE do a valve job if they couldn't do a leak down test first. No way, no how. If they can't do that much, drive away as fast as you can.

If you can't find anyone able to work on it, then I'd say it's time to buy a toolbox and a manual and do it yourself. It's not as hard as you think.

Teratani
08-27-2008, 10:34 PM
Actually there are not alot of people that work on Italian cars here so maybe thats not as surprising. :D

Unless you have some kind of emission standard to met you could have the converter removed if it gets clogged. Recycle it there have some precious metals in them that are worth alot of money. That light could also be for the Oxygen sensor also.

As far a the valve job. Its really a standard valve job on a single cam,aluminium head. Any automotive machine shop that rebuilds motors on cars should be able to do this. Of course as long as they could get new parts. The head has to be removed and taken to the shop for them to do it.


wp

I'm sure cat converter is completely out of order cause I've checked under car and it's for most parts burned...there's a lot of red color on it as it's burned or something like that.
I ask dad now about cat converter (He drove car till 1999) and he say used LEADED gasoline...what crazy!! So for 130k km that car used leaded gasoline....
He say he doesnt' know at that times car has a cat converter even, Honda Dealer doesn't told him anything about this...I guess EU version didn't have a cat converter

I'm checking on ebay for it...a hi-flow cat is good? Cause they're really cheap!

Teratani
08-27-2008, 10:41 PM
Oh. Italy. That makes sense. The Japanese cars are too reliable, too easy to work on and way, way too slow. They're trying their best to correct all that, but you keep preventing them! :rofl:

Just kidding.

I'll tell you that I absolutely would not let ANYONE do a valve job if they couldn't do a leak down test first. No way, no how. If they can't do that much, drive away as fast as you can.

If you can't find anyone able to work on it, then I'd say it's time to buy a toolbox and a manual and do it yourself. It's not as hard as you think.

LOL man! U are completely correct. That's the way on these people works on honda and genrerals japanese cars. They want transform it into Alfa Romeo or something like that :rofl:
Fortunately I have manuals and this board (also prelude board, I have a '88 Prelude as well), u guys, help me a lot against them.

And the way u suggest is the way I follow from 2 years now. Anything I can do myself, I do myself, cause risk wasting money and messing car is very high here.