Help me fix this sled, please?

[xplodingboy07]

Well, my 88 Accord is about turn into a giant hot dog cooker if I don't get this straight soon.

I got this Accord a month ago, I made a post in the introductions as well, if anyone is interested!

When I test drove it, it ran fine, then I came to pay for it the next day, and drive it away... the guy must have drained the tank, it was BONE dry. After starting it up when I finally filled it from a can, it's run like total shit. I mean, it may have been running like shit while I tested it, just got a lucky 5 minutes with it. The guy said the carb was recently serviced, so I was like "hell yeah, should be good to go". Well, that nutsack was lying, because I took it to the garage that "serviced" it to ask them about their quality work, and he said that the man who sold the car was informed of some "internal issues" with the carb, and that it should be rebuilt or replaced. By the way, the car was $1100, with 95,000 miles, nice body, that I am buffing later this week, and it will be pretty decent visually.

I've replaced vacuum lines, fuel filters, cap rotor, plugs, wires, distributor (not by choice, but being stranded in a non starting car, after stalling out on the highway is AWESOME, within a month of owning a Honda, this happened, in FOUR years of owning a Subaru, never stranded once), emptied plenty of cans of carb cleaner into it, plenty of bottles of injector cleaner, and have had only minimal success making it run any better. Let me say this though, while I know a pretty common theme is "it's got XXX miles, of course you need to do stuff", I am not sure how much I should have to do to get the Honda reputation working for me. The problem is, the car won't idle for shit. It runs super rich or something at idle, cause I can smell it. It must be running lean to some degree at driving speeds though, because if I have the timing set just slightly beyond the most retarded point I get some pretty nice knocking in lower second and third gears. The car will die making turns, or stopping. I've raised the float level, which has helped slighty with the turning and stopping dying, though gas started to pour all over my carb from the screw, which has since been kept under control with some gas tank epoxy. The car will diesel like fucking crazy. This has since trashed the already iffy exhaust from the vibrations. This is something I will fix when I get the other problems fixed.


I've called the guy from importcarbs.com and he thinks it's related to a problem with the idle circuit, vacuum that is. So, tomorrow I am picking up a junkyard carb with the intention of sending this one back to avoid the core charge of $90. I started thinking though, why not try it out? I mean, hell, if these things are super reliable, it's not likely that I am getting another shitty carb, right?

I just want this bad taste washed out of my mouth, I mean, if it's the carb, I'll do it. If I have to fuck with this thing for the next year or two while I am finishing school, it's going to be a BBQ pit. Does this sould like an idle issue in the carb? I mean, I have all of the adjustments fucked up just so it RUNS, not for any kind of actual adjustment.

So far it has new...

Plugs
Front brake pads
Left front caliper
Plug wires
Distributor
Cap
Rotor
New upper control arms, front, both sides
Sway bar bushings, front
Fuel filters
Air filter
Valves adjusted
Valve gasket then, naturally
Tires

PS, I've checked the venturi's.

[russiankid]

I have had a similar issue. I was driving down a hill, hit the brakes and the car stalled. I pulled over and the car fired up, but would not idle. I drove it home, and it would buck. The issue was the Primary Slow Mixture Cut-off solenoid. It sits on the back of the carb, sits more towards the right of the carburetor when looking from the front of the car. It has a single yellow/green wire running to it. The wire runs down to the vacuum rail towards the black box, and there is a connector that sits on the vacuum rail. The connector sits near the EGR, primarily next to thermovalve C. The wire on mine broke off, so I just crimped on a new connector.

Another thing you need to check is the ground wire on the thermostat housing. I had mine break off, I spent a week trying to figure out the issue. Everything I sprayed carb cleaner into the carb, it would run well, once I stopped it would go back to running rough. After fixing that ground wire, all is well(knock on wood).

[xplodingboy07]

I will have to check out the ground wire. Would the one between the head and the front do anything? It looks pretty haggard on my car.

I am still going to grab that carb from the yard tomorrow, cause I may need the parts.

Is there anything internal that could go wrong involving that solenoid? I mean, if I check it, and it's working, could there be some leak or whatever I can't get to?

[russiankid]

Not quite sure I never dug that deep into the issue, after I fixed the wire I haven't touched it. If the solenoid is bad or leaking just replace it. I believe it cuts off fuel to certain parts of the carb, but its needed at idle.

As for the ground wire. The one between the valve cover and radiator support will not cause the car not to idle. It can cause rough idle but it won't cause the car to not idle at all. The ground on the thermostat housing actually ties into the wiring harness, which apparently has a major role somewhere.

[xplodingboy07]

Well, the car will idle at this point, but it's been seriously jacked to make that happen. It will still stall on turns and hills though. I will grab a couple of ground wires tomrrow and make that happen. Perhaps I should hold on on this carb for one more day... I can't find one of those solenoids on the websites of the big parts stores, like autozone though.

[russiankid]

The ground wire on the thermostat goes into the main wire harness, so its not easy to replace. All the other ones are easy to replace. Autozone will not carry a solenoid like this, you will have to either grab one from a junk carb or get it from the stealer.

It is number 30 in this diagram.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CARBURETOR

[xplodingboy07]

I will check that out tomorrow as well, I can put in whatever time I need to get that wire fixed, so that's cool. I guess I should get the carb regardless, I will have a second solenoid then as well. Perhaps it would be a good idea to just swap that out initially before I do the whole carb?

[A20A1]

look through these threads, see if they help.


http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5350

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46572

[steveko]

The solenoid has an O ring gasket seal. Just check the solenoid too see if it retracts when removed from the carb. Make sure the housing is grounded. Have someone turn the key on. it should retract, if not it's defective.

[xplodingboy07]

Thank you for all of the suggestions so far!

I forgot to mention that the stalling only happens when I turn right (while sitting in the vehicle) and stopping, the faster I do either, the worse it gets.

I replaced the solenoid with my spare, however, it was not tested before I did that. The O ring was total shit... is this a vacuum thing here? Could that have some impact? When I saw this O ring, I decided to just go buy the whole rebuild kit. I will be doing the rebuild tomorrow morning/afternoon. I did take the top part of the carb off tonight, the yard one which I am rebuilding, and the bowl was full of shit. So I imagine the other one of mine is rather shitty too. I mean, is it possible when turning, and stopping, shit if blocking the fuel going in?

I really with I could find a diagram of the internal functions of this carb, because it would help be get a better idea of what is going on with it. I am fairly inclined with this things, and have performed some seriously intensive repairs, but I am a complete newb with carbs.

On a bright note, I found a 3gee that is getting junked this weekend, and I can stip whatever I can get done in an hour or two tomorrow. From what is left, I am going to grab the carb, coil, distributor, turn signal and light thing from the steering wheel (mine is dead). I have also considered popping the head off this beast. He said the engine is shot, but he does not know what happened with it, because he purchased it for parts, and was only told this information. I may just pop the head off, and keep the intake, and all related parts too. Is there a certain removal sequence for head bolts?

[ChaseR]

I've replaced vacuum lines, fuel filters, cap rotor, plugs, wires, distributor (not by choice, but being stranded in a non starting car, after stalling out on the highway is AWESOME, within a month of owning a Honda, this happened, in FOUR years of owning a Subaru, never stranded once),




Ok your bitching about reliability of a car that is 20 years old, and you have no idea what it's last 20 years of maintanance was?:uh: Seriously though you really can't say HONDA is to blame and you really can't say it's a lemon as all of those were weeded out by now. (not saying you did btw)

[russiankid]

Dirt in the fuel bowl is not good. It can slush around, but from what I saw on my carb, it was just resting on the bottom.

[xplodingboy07]

I knew this post was going to come, and thank you for it.

However, I was only mentioning my experience with other nearly 20 year old cars I've driven. I mean, I know I even said that it was older, and I know what comes with that.

The thing is though, I will really enjoy this car if I get it working, and it's not really making a good Honda experience for me with these constant problems. To be fair, whenever I am not trying to idle, or turn, or stop, the car runs fantastic. The AC works well too.

[xplodingboy07]

Dirt in the fuel bowl is not good. It can slush around, but from what I saw on my carb, it was just resting on the bottom.

When I check the ground wire, it was solid at the themostat, so unless something broke inline, I think it's fine.

I was reading about a float getting a hole, and filling with fuel, I wonder if this is a problem with mine as well?

[russiankid]

The ground wire is covered up, it could have broken off inside. Try wiggling it around a bit and then see if the problem happens again. If it doesn't, theres your problem.

[greentee76]

I forgot to mention that the stalling only happens when I turn right (while sitting in the vehicle) and stopping, the faster I do either, the worse it gets.


It's a circle track car, only wants to make left turns and never stop!:lol:

[xplodingboy07]

I had never even thought of that! Of course it's getting ready for the track, it has already shedding the exhaust. lol

Oh, and the idle speed goes up on left hand turns.

[MessyHonda]

i say....if your going to race...get ride of the stock carb...and go with a webber.

[xplodingboy07]

Well, I am off to the garage now to do this carb rebuild, it does not look like the rebuild itself will take more than an hour. The parts list that came in the box is actually fairly handy too. I am not going to bother pulling the head off that other car today, just the carb and a few other random parts that I would like to have around.

I've got 15 feet of vacuum line ready to go too, lol.

I will let you guys know how it goes. Oh, and I fixed up the exhaust so it no longer sounds like total shit. woohoo

[xplodingboy07]

Update!

Ok, so I am hating this car a little less today. Which is good, because I was totally excited when I got it, but it's just been one pain in the ass after the other.

I replaced the ground wire coming off the battery with two wires, one connecting to the battery, and meeting another wire at the stock location on the frame, where it ends up at the plate on the transmission.

I replaced the PCV valve again, and I am not sure if it's luck or what, but the car is only dieseling for like 1-2 seconds at most now, rather than 1-2 minutes. Must have been something shitty with the other one. Still the car idles in a rough kind of way, and when the idle starts to dip in the 700ish range, I head a clatter that sounds like it's coming from the distributor. This one came from the junkyard two weeks ago, it's the Hitachi kind I guess, it's the same as the one I took off anyway. I want this idle to smooth out, cause it still wants to stall at stop signs, and right turns. I have it adjusted right now that it will drop to almost stalling, and then pick back up, and do that process a few times before leveling off. I wish I could get it to stop SOONER, rather than waiting till almost stalling, which would make the ride almost totally acceptable.

I just dumped another can of Techron in with a full tank of 93 octane gas, which I would prefer to not use, considering my car should not need it. I will Seafoam it tomorrow, because Wal Mart was out tonight. I have yet to pull the carb off entirely. The carb I was going to rebuild has MASSIVE corrosion on the bottom of it, and I am not thrilled about replacing a running, however shitty carb, with something like that. The solenoid on the back is working just fine too, I did test that out. I did rip the carb apart that is currently in the car, and fine almost a quarter inch of crap in the bowl. Cleaning this out had NO impact on the car, which is surprising.

I just need to figure out this idle thing, cause the car runs like fucking crazy when it's in gear. I mean, it seems like a balance, either I run the idle high enough that it's not an issue, but it diesels, or I drop it so it does not diesel, and let it bang around like hell. I am not entirely thrilled about spending a few hundred on a rebuilt carb, when I have already spent hundreds on this thing since it's purchase last month.

On a bright note, I am happier with it, and I could see myself being totally into it for a year or two if I get this working properly, I mean, I just hit 99,000 miles the other day. I scored an extra black box the other day. I fixed my lights/turn signal thing with a new one. Replaced the blown headlight. Fixed the exhaust, however, I need to rip it back apart tomorrow and seal it up. The fix was not the best when I did it, it's solid, just not air tight, I had limited time.

I am thinking about replacing the coil, perhaps the movement of the car stopping or turning right has something to do with that? I am going back to school in January, and I need to think about that, so I can't keep dumping money into this. I will to a point, because I want it working properly, but it gets a little crazy after a while.

Thank you guys for all of the help so far! I do not mind fixing things, but when I keep tossing money out there, and it does not help, it gets frustrating.

Sleddy M. Sledwick will run smooth again, I know it. Oh, and I will get pics up soon. It's really in pretty good shape, I am going to buff it tomorrow, and wax it.

[greentee76]

I don't know where you are located but i will tell you this, if you don't have emissions testing where you are don't spend the money on a rebuilt OEM carb. The same money will buy you a weber conversion. It is by far the best investment I have made as far as this car goes. You go from "what the hell does this thing do" to " this thing is so simple" in the course of about four hours. And it's fun as hell ripping all that shit out of there.
Good luck with it.

[Dr_Snooz]

Don't go too crazy with the Seafoam, Techron, et al. I did on my BMW and it fritzed the spark plugs. Doh!

If it isn't helping, don't keep pouring it in.

[Hauntd ca3]

I was reading about a float getting a hole, and filling with fuel, I wonder if this is a problem with mine as well?[/QUOTE]

if the float has a hole and has filled with fuel, the flaot level would be way high and she'd flood and you'd get a strong fuel smell
if its to low the fuel could run away from the jet inlet and cause extreme leaness in the mixtures.
have you checked the timing, cause if its out to much it can cause the run on you are experiancing.

[xplodingboy07]

The timing is good, however it will now need to be checked again!

I changed distributors to see if perhaps that was causing the problems. I had a Hitachi on it, and I put a spare TEC in. It actually seems stronger with this one, so I am going to leave it, and set the timing on Friday when I have access to a timing light.

I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the carb last night again, and I do not know how I did not notice this before, but the idle shot up. Perhaps it just kicked the bucket, I don't know. So this afternoon, I pulled the carb off, and replaced both gaskets. The process was much easier than I expected, and from all of the shit I have been dealing with here, I knew most of the vacuum connections off the top of my head. This was good too, because I replace some of the other small vacuum lines that were a bitch before.

The car is BARELY having a run on problem right now, it will go for a second or two at MOST. So I am pretty close to getting that under control.

The main problem is the rough idle. At 1,000RPM it's OKish, but not perfect. Lower, it's rougher. It will stumble, and try to die. Even at 1,000 it will fluctuate some.

I was reading the shop manual tonight, and I am going to check the ground at the #32 wire on the engine control. From what I see, that IS the ground by the thermostat. I will meter it tomorrow, and if I do not see something good, I will route a new wire for it.

It is blowing my mind here, I do not know what could be making the car stumble, and almost stall when braking or turning left. I mean, I have found so many problems, fixed them, yet these problems persist. I figure once I get it all resolved it will be a great running car. I appreciate all of the Weber suggestions, but I would prefer to stick with the stock design of the car. Getting performance out of this is pretty much not an issue to me. I want it to run properly, and just drive it. I am fairly inclined with all of this, so I can do what I need to do. I just need to know WHAT to do at this point. I am begining to like the car, and I know I would love it if it was running good.

[xplodingboy07]

I should add that I have no idea how smooth these thing should run though. I mean, maybe it they are kinda rough compared to an FI car. I am getting tired of putting money in though, I like my cars to run properly, and I want to get this one there.

[Dr_Snooz]

Just re-read this thread and had a number of thoughts in no particular order:

As regards your rough idle, check your camshaft lobes. They could be all pitted and jacked.

You mention that the car was bone dry when you took delivery. That could explain the shite in your carb bowl and it could explain a lot of the carb problems you've been having. If that tank was very dirty (entirely probable in an old car), it would have drawn that dirt up into the gas lines and carb when it ran dry. It wouldn't take much more than a tiny bit of crap in a carb channel to seriously foul things up.

Get a Honda manual if you don't have one. You mention a lot of things you think might be causing your issues. Honda is very good about providing comprehensive troubleshooting procedures so you don't have to change a lot of stuff on the off-chance that it might fix the problem. Specifically, you mention the coil. The manual has a diagnostic procedure for the coil and you'd do well to go through it before buying one.

You mention a possible bad float. My experience with bad floats is that the car won't run at all (ie: won't start) if the float is bad. Your floats are probably fine.

Don't dismiss the Weber conversion without looking into it. I'm an all-stock guy myself, but I've had three of the Keihin carbs on two different cars. My opinion of Keihin isn't high based on that experience. I have FI now, but if I had another Keihin and wasn't subject to California smog regulations, I'd be all over anything other than Keihin's trash.

Having beat around this bush for awhile now, I'll come to the point. My opinion of carbs is that a carb rebuild is pretty much a 100k mile maintenance item. Others here might disagree, but that's what I think. You have a rebuild kit already, consider using it. You might find that everything works a lot better.

You mention that the car shouldn't need 93 octane gas. Remember that these cars don't have knock sensors. If you get pre-detonation from low-octane gas, your engine will pay the price. Moreover, as these cars age, the distributors develop, um, personality and their firing range kinda moves around. In my opinion, the extra insurance from the highest octane gas is well worth it to avoid pre-detonation.

Finally, don't get too frustrated. These are great cars and worth the time and effort it takes to get them right. You sound like you know what you're doing under the hood and have made a lot of progress already. Keep at it. You'll get there.

Sorry for the uber-long post, but maybe it's worth it?

[xplodingboy07]

I did rebuild the carb when it was out so that is out of the way now. :)

I took the driver side seat out yesterday, to check out the computer. Well, I don't know if this is how it SHOULD be, but I doubt it, the car runs THE SAME if I have the computer completely removed!?! So when I look at the wiring in the service manual, it has a black wire listed at #32. On the actual car, it is black, with silver dots. I checked it against the body, with a meter, and it appears to be open. If the rain stops, since my garage has another car in it right now, I am going to go out and check some of the connections across the harness that it mentions, to see if they are completing the circuit. Is it possible the control computer is bad, if the circuits are fine?

[xplodingboy07]

I was just being quick earlier, so I can address some of the other things mentioned in the previous post now.

When I had the valve cover off to adjust the valves, everything looked like it could have rolled out of the factory yesterday. I have copies of the shop manual PDF on my laptop now, would there be something more detailed I could get? I was going to check the coil, I mainly wanted to know if it was one of the oil filled ones. Because if my car is sitting still, I would have no way of checking the problems that is has when stopping or turning right. The float was actually fine after I took the carb apart, so I just cleaned everything any put it back together.

You are right though, I feel like this Keihin is a giant pile of shit. I so want to stay stock, but if I can get some pretty confident replies saying that my car will not be so quirky that only I can drive it, I will seriously consider Weber. I am getting too tired of dumping into this one. I need to get a vacuum tool anyway if I decide to keep this, so I can go through all of the Honda tests. I was mainly asking these questions though, because if someone knew ANYTHING that would be motion related like the problems I am having, that would be great.

I have some noise coming from the timing belt area, probably a bad bearing. These are interference right?

I guess I should do that. Would it be silly to do a head gasket too? Or just wait, because it looks like those go south on these too quite frequently. My typing blows tonight, sorry. Girlfriend broke up with me, and I am hammered to a degree.

[russiankid]

If the noise is like a wuur noise its normal. Get a long screw driver and put it on the bolt that sticks out of the timing belt cover for the tensioner. Make sure you have a constant wuur sound. If not, replace the belt and tensioner.

Headgaskets don't go on these cars if you care for the cooling system. As far as your issue, I think when you turn your engine just gets started of fuel.

[A20A1]

The float wont usually get a hole but the o-rings can leak... sometimes it leaks out the top and sometimes it leaks down the bottom bypassing the float needle and flooding the carb.

the distributor problems can come from the springs on the mechanical advance, the igniter, the stator reluctor gap, bad adjustment, or something simple like the cap and rotor.

check valve lash...
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39319

this is something that can also cause problems and sometimes will be tricky if you try and adjust each cylinder and don't remember to align the cam/crank for that particular cylinder prior to adjustment.

.

[xplodingboy07]

OK, so, I DID try to search this, but it is down. :)

I was reading the service manual, and unless I am missing something, it does not really show this...

I was staring at my spare carb today, trying to figure out where all of the visible passages go, and their purpose. A few days ago I sent a PM to carrotman, because he posted a thread that I had not found before describing the exact same problem I am still having! You guys have mentioned the cut off solenoid a few times, and he said that was his problem. Here is the deal though, my car runs the same if I unplug this, or run straight 12v to it, it does not matter. It works. I even tried my spare, both of them work. So it got me thinking, if this is working, WHAT ELSE COULD BE CAUSING THIS SAME PROBLEM?!?!?!

Like I said, I was looking at my spare, and I noticed the accelerator pump. You guys can stop me right away if I am wrong, but the little jet below the throttle body is supposed to feed fuel at idle, right? If I trace the passages I can see on the outside of the carb, it LOOKS like it's pulling fuel from the accelerator pump. Now, I am not the best with carbs, I am just looking at it, trying to get it figured out at best right now. This pump gets it's fuel from the bowl, right, a little passage? If you are off throttle, doesn't the idle vacuum release, pushing the tang down, squirting fuel? It looks like this fuel passes right though the cut off solenoid passage. So my question is, if there is massive shit in the accelerator pump diaphram area, blocking this fuel from being picked up, wouldn't that give a problem similar to that solenoid going bad?

If I am ALL wrong here, let me know before I rip this apart tomorrow, I am willing to give it a shot, I am so running out of options. I am afraid I will sell the car if I have to dump any more into it right now.

Oh, and I have to do the head gaskets on my sisters Forester tomorrow... yay! This is a job I've done a half dozen times though, I can do all of this fairly complex stuff, but this carb setup is just f'd. :)

[A20A1]

The cut-off/idle passages don't connect to the accelerator pump diaphragm passages, they are right next to each other though.


The idle passages do connect to the primary jet in the float bowl and it also seems to be tied into the power valve, since I can press on the power valve and the sound of the air coming out the hole changes.

the accelerator pump passage goes down from the float bowl, dips right into the accelerator pump diaphragm them moves across and up to the carb top hat where it splits into two streams... one shoots out and down into the primary barrel and the other bleeds into a round disk looking piece with a tiny hole in it that drains back into the fuel bowl.

[2oodoor]

sounds like you already rebuilt the carb way back several posts. Take it off, save it or sell it IMO the Weber is well worth the trouble and makes a hellova weight reduction. You saw that you can um "LOL" remove the computer and not have any affect, well there is a trunk full of other parts under the hood you can lose once you convert it. You can find Webers in the scarp yard sometimes, they were widely used as OEM replacement carbs for Asian imports of all makes.
I know exactly what you mean about nobody else even being able to drive the car for the quriks.. big selling point for a Weber 32/36 or 38. The only quirk you will have then is maybe an occasional rough idle (still doenst stall out though) when the weather changes, this can be resolve simply by opening the hood, casually reaching the idle air screw with your fingers (no tools even required) and slightley tweak the mixture.
I still think that may have something to do with the lousy air filter that comes on some of these, it may pay to get the tall one or make a ram intake with a larger filter. (thinking out loud)

[xplodingboy07]

I would really like to fix this car without having to go Weber though. It looks like that may be my best bet in some ways though. I will find out if it's cool in PA here.

The site I found has them for like $400. I payed $1,100 for this car two months ago. I've put maybe $600 or more back into it since then. I start school in January, full time, and I need to work to support myself while I do this. I would really prefer to stop putting money into this for a little while, and just drive it. I could get a fully rebuilt carb for $230 from importcarbs.com, assuming I have something internally wrong with this carb. I really don't want to spend the $400, because I need to keep that in the bank, for backup. I have my multimeter for sale in the trading post, I would be willing to trade for weber parts though! If I buy this carb, what else do I need to put it on, that does not come with it? I mean, I had the stock carb off the car, and back on within 45 minutes, so this weber should be cake work. If the car is not real quirky, that's a serious plus. I don't need to be driving up to people, they get in, and I am blowing black smoke cause I forgot to mess with the choke.

Which vehicles would have a weber on them? Anything special I can look for? It's like junkyard paradise around here, I have like 10 within 20 minutes. I can make a u pull it trip somewhere too. How much of a bitch is it to make an adapter plate if I go this route instead of buying the kit?

[A20A1]

First get a vacuum gauge, then check this thread and your shop manual.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48569


also


Have you tried carb cleaner and spraying the intake manifold and other areas to check for gasket leaks?




http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11067

Also you can run the carb and do the vacuum removal mod and not really have to remove or modify anything on the carb or manifold permanently since it will just be a test.

Make sure you turn out your fast idle screw and lock the choke open and you can run the carb with most of the vacuum lines and carb ports plugged.

I would suggest you keep #14 to the power valve connected
the Air jet Controller vacuum lines A, B, & C connected
Also the vacuum secondary line which should be connected directly to the carb, bypassing the plastic vacuum "T" fitting.

The idle diaphragm on the throttle linkage side of the carb should also be connected but connect it directly to manifold vacuum if it isn't already.. I forget if there is a check valve inline... but I don't believe it was needed, though it's been a while since I've done any carb work.

you main idle adjustments will be from the throttle stop screw and the idle diaphragm but warm the car up and turn off accessories and unscrew the idle diaphragm screw to disable it... then adjust the float back to normal and then set the idle using only the throttle stop screw. then when there is some load present you can bring up the idle a little using the idle diaphragm screw but make sure the idle doesn't raise out of control once the load is removed.

throttle stop screw can be turned using a flat head, the rest of the screws are Philips I think.

I think I'm missing some things but I think i got most of it.


EDIT:

Disable the AS valve and EGR valve, plug the vacuum lines to the valves but no need to plug the valves them self.




The weber adapter plate is $50 sold separately. the 32/36 can sometimes be cheap... like $75 but ask what jets it comes with and if it has a leaky throttle shaft or something like that.

[xplodingboy07]

After bathing the engine in carb cleaner today, I found a few more problem areas, it seems like I am leaking under the intake manifold. I the idle would try to smooth out when I sprayed it, but it was not perfect. I can only assume it's a massive leak, and I am not cover all of it, or another independent leak.

Unless someone knows of a really good way of getting that manifold off without removing the head, or having to use 11 different twisty extentions... I am done. I am not going to put a new head gasket and timing belt and all of that at this time. I could do all of this, and then get a weber and still likely have a problem, or find that the car is rusting below the visible undercoating or something. Oh well. On a bright note, I had the heads off my sisters Forester in like 3 hours yesterday.

Anyone want to buy an 88 Accord that just hit 100K? The body is in real nice shape, aside from some fading paint, and a few little rust spots. Pioneer head unit (with the animations). Some new parts, some spare parts. It does have this issue though. I paid $1100 two months ago, put hundreds back in, $1000 it's yours.

[Dr_Snooz]

:( Sorry dude.

[greentee76]

That sucks man.
Yeah the intake manifold can be a PITA to get off. It's really not that hard of a job but will definately try your patience.
If you were closer to me I might have to give buying it some serious thought, but getting out to PA to pick it up just isn't going to happen I'm afraid.

[xplodingboy07]

Well guys, thanks for all of your help!

The car was sold locally for $1,050. Pick up the Subaru tomorrow. I would love to own a 3gee that was EFI, if I come across one, I may grab it. I really liked the way the car drove. Thanks again for the help though!