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View Full Version : Throwout bearing Dying???????



Coolbusracer
09-06-2008, 10:14 AM
ok, so i posted about this earlier but there is one curious thing about it now......
On my 86 dx hatch, when i shift into 3rd, and the RPM's are above 2000, the gears grind........

the higher the RPM's the worse the grind...... but if it's below 2000 then it doesn't grind..... any ideas?????? I have tried double clutching to try to avoid it, but still if the rpms are too high it will grind..... does this sound like a throw out bearing problem????? I still haven't done a clutch adjustment, but have been meaning to for a while now, but i don't think that is the problem cuz it would do it for all the other gears too, right??????

Oh, and thanks Dark_Accord.... i have been shifting into 2nd before i shift to R, and i have never had a grind from it since..... a little wierd, but i'm not one to question something that works.....

forrest89sei
09-06-2008, 10:26 AM
ok, so i posted about this earlier but there is one curious thing about it now......
On my 86 dx hatch, when i shift into 3rd, and the RPM's are above 2000, the gears grind........

the higher the RPM's the worse the grind...... but if it's below 2000 then it doesn't grind..... any ideas?????? I have tried double clutching to try to avoid it, but still if the rpms are too high it will grind..... does this sound like a throw out bearing problem????? I still haven't done a clutch adjustment, but have been meaning to for a while now, but i don't think that is the problem cuz it would do it for all the other gears too, right??????

Oh, and thanks Dark_Accord.... i have been shifting into 2nd before i shift to R, and i have never had a grind from it since..... a little wierd, but i'm not one to question something that works.....

Sounds like Syncros to me, I think with a bearing you'd have issues in all gears

I'd give it a good oil change with Honda MTF and maybe Penzoil/GM Syncromesh

Coolbusracer
09-06-2008, 12:58 PM
ok.... that's what ive been told in the other posts......

but what do the syncro's actually do??????? I am not very mechanically inclined and am trying to learn..... but everything just confuses me and i just get frustrated..... and can the syncro's be changed out????? and how difficult is that to do?????? I assume that the trans would have to be removed and dissasembled, but is it something that my dad, and i ( he has a general knowledge of cars, but nothing perticular...) could do in a weekend with just basic tools?????

with the syncromesh fluid, how much do you add????? I asked this before but it still hasn't been answered..... things got off topic....

Hauntd ca3
09-06-2008, 01:06 PM
syncros act like a brake to help match the speed of two gears that are being engaged
so they dont grind and chew the teeth up
dont konw if you'd want to try and do them youself unless you have access to the right tools and knowledge as there are lots of small parts in a manual trans.
i'd pay to get them done unless you really want to do it yourself

Coolbusracer
09-06-2008, 01:06 PM
my dad and i, adjusted the clutch this morning and it went away, but then he tweeked with it more, and well..... it's back again...... it's not as bad, but its definatly still there....

what's the easiest way to DIY for adding of the fluid..... i have no access to a lift and if i remember right the car has to be level..... and unfortunatly i only have 1 jack.....

Coolbusracer
09-06-2008, 01:08 PM
if there's a lot of small parts, it might be best if i just have someone else do it.....

Hauntd ca3
09-06-2008, 01:24 PM
yeah, the syncros tend to have wee springs in them, the shift rods and forks need to come out i think and the rods have wee springs and a few ball bearings in them.
and the shift forks may need replacing or repairing
i personally havnt had a honda mt in bits but someone else may have done this type of work on theirs.
but myself i'd send it to a trans specialist

russiankid
09-06-2008, 01:25 PM
Replacing the oil is simple. There is a drain bolt and a fill bolt. You don't have to jack the car up. You can turn your steering wheel to the left all the way. Then, from the right side of the car, locate your transmission and where the axle goes into the transmission. Below that, you will see a round drain plug, which has a square drive. You will need a 3/8' drive ratchet.

Before you drain the oil, get a 17mm wrench, and break loose the fill bolt. The fill bolt is above the drain bolt, it sits on the side of the transmission closer to the rear of it. Once loosened, remove the drain plug and drain the oil. Next, get yourself a funnel and remove the fill bolt. Fill the transmission with Honda MTF until oil comes out of the fill hole. Once it comes out of the hole, remove funnel and replace the fill plug.

Now, you're done. Next, check your clutch adjustment. The release arm is suppose to move 2.5-4mm. You will need a ruler for this to be accurate. I had to set mine at 2.5mm of freeplay in order to function properly.

Coolbusracer
09-06-2008, 03:00 PM
ok..... but how much syncromesh fluid should i put in it?????? that's all i need to know....
i don't mean to be rude about it, but i have asked this now three time and am still yet to find out a proper answer......

MY BAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I thought that the syncromesh fluid was something like octane booster is to the gas..... i thought you only needed to add a little bit, not realizing that it is actually just trans oil....... I apologize to everyone for being such a pest for such a stupid little question.....

I am still a noob, so bear that in mind......

Coolbusracer
09-06-2008, 03:36 PM
ok, so i have realized what everyone was talking about, but now i have a simpler question....

What weight of oil should i use??????? 5W30 or 10W30 ???????????

russiankid
09-06-2008, 04:06 PM
Honda MTF. If you do use regular oil, 10w30 is the way to go but I have heard of people using 20w50 without issues. Before you put in synchromesh, try just changing the fluid to Honda MTF.

88Accord-DX
09-06-2008, 09:04 PM
The 3rd-4th synchro is on the mainshaft, which has a ring, sleeve, spring & hub. The mainshaft is on the right, countershaft on the left of the pic. The synchos are made of brass & tend to wear out faster than any other part in the manual trans-axles. If you have no mechanical experience, I don't recommend popping these open & doing it yourself.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/transaxletorndown.jpg

cygnus x-1
09-07-2008, 06:58 AM
The best fluid for manual transmissions is Honda MTF. The service manuals state to use regular motor oil, but the formulation of motor oils has changed over the years and they no longer have the right additives for Honda transmissions. So Honda started making their own MTF. GM synchromesh should work ok too since it has the right additives for brass synchros.

C|

Coolbusracer
09-07-2008, 08:56 AM
ok, first off, thanks to everyone for helping......

There is no way i could do this on my own, so i won't.....just lookin at that pic scares me.....

i plan on trying Honda MTF and then if that still doesn't work i'll go for the syncromesh....
it might be a little though, Friggin jiffy lube took off the fill plug to check the levels, but when they put it back on, the torqued it REALLY tight..... can't get it loose at all.....anybody got any SAFE ideas????? all i have is the stock spare tire jack, for lifting, and those things are unstable as hell...... i don't have any ramps, or access to a shop, so everything i do is on my own....

Oldblueaccord
09-10-2008, 01:57 PM
You know really you dont need a jack for this the upper plug just need two wrenchs linked together to get leverage to get it undone. Use the closed end on the plug and closed end of another wrench on the open end of the 17 mm wrench for leverage.



If you need a little space lay a stack of wood under your tire and roll up on it to give a couple inches room and not have to take the tire off.


wp

jpetrovic
09-13-2008, 12:08 PM
Could be the clutch, i had the same problem with some of my gears, After i replaced the clutch assem. it all stoped. i also used 10-30W Synthetic oil. No more problems.