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View Full Version : Wanna Go Fast In SD But Need Help



God
10-14-2008, 11:14 AM
I jus bought a 86 Hatchback Accord wit a 5spd Im debating I found a local shop in Rapid City, SD that will make motor mounts for any honda engine i want so I was thinkin a H22A or a B18C wat motor is smaller as far as physical size of should i jus build my A20A3 thats in there now if i build the A20 it will be turbo wit forged internals if i can find any... wat would be the best im looking to hit high to mid 12s on pump gas so yea wat would be the best way to do that thanks

codyJDM
10-14-2008, 11:29 AM
If you want 12's and can get mounts go b20vtec or ls/vtec

And if you have the $ k20a2 or k24 bottom end with k20a2 head

Just my $.02, do what you want :)

LiTtLe xOx BitT
10-14-2008, 11:31 AM
If your looking to hit 12's the easiest and cheapest thing would be to turbo your A20. Just doing a swap wont make you got that fast so you will have to do a swap and then turbo anyway. To do a good reliable turbo setup your looking at about $3000 if you do most of the work yourself. Remember if you do a swap you need to have mounts custom made, buy a motor & tranny and probably rebuild them, do a odb-1or2 swap, figure out what axels to use and a bunch of other things, and i wouldnt reccommend going any bigger then a B18 if you swap because you might have fitment issues with a bigger motor. A swap is not impossible, but unless you can get parts really cheap and you do the custom work yourself then you will be spending a lot of money. If your just looking for something fun to drive and maybe race on the weekends then just turbo the A20. If your serious about going turbo look in the forced induction section and you will find almost everything you ned to know.

2oodoor
10-14-2008, 01:50 PM
H 22, much cheaper to build and maintain that build.
You can turbocharge that, but I wouldnt worry about zex.
You will need close to 250 hp at the wheels, slicks, and a strong transmission and axles to consistently hit mid 12s.
Of course if you can do most all the work yourself you can cut cost considerably, even so, a custom built rotating assembly would cost a fortune.
I was reading somewhere that some places are building K motors and using custom built GM automatics for bracket racing. Those evidently turn the right direction to use those transmissions.

A18A
10-14-2008, 02:04 PM
your username reminds me of me. any honda engine? how about a C32B :D srsly tho the b18c sounds the easiest, and then turbo that haha

God
10-14-2008, 03:19 PM
Yea I can get a B16A wit everythin for $1700 and i have a t3/t4 turbo and got bout $3500 for mods plus the cost of the swap done i seen another guy from sd on here but cant remember where at... anyone kno how to get ahold of him would that turbo b16 be somethin that would make that car move and thanks but true story god drives a honda

LiTtLe xOx BitT
10-15-2008, 12:36 AM
H 22, much cheaper to build and maintain that build.
You can turbocharge that, but I wouldnt worry about zex.
You will need close to 250 hp at the wheels, slicks, and a strong transmission and axles to consistently hit mid 12s.
Of course if you can do most all the work yourself you can cut cost considerably, even so, a custom built rotating assembly would cost a fortune.
I was reading somewhere that some places are building K motors and using custom built GM automatics for bracket racing. Those evidently turn the right direction to use those transmissions.

Although a H22 might be cheaper to build, you have to factor in the cost of buying the engine and trans and rebuilding them on top of the cost for custom mounts, axels, wiring, etc...

God
10-15-2008, 04:48 AM
Yea I have jus chose to build the A20 cuz I can get a set of custom forged pistons for $800 and custom forged rods for bout $1000 through a local machine shop then im gooing to boost it wit some juice

cygnus x-1
10-15-2008, 09:09 AM
To hit those kinds of numbers you will need more than engine work. You'll need some drag tires and probably stiffer springs and shocks too to get that power to the ground. And with 250HP your gearbox and axles won't be happy either.

C|

Accordtheory
10-16-2008, 04:50 PM
And there I was, thinking god didn't exist..little did I know..
So, why the F did you chose an 86 accord as a project car? Did you actually find one in SD with no rust? The only reason mine is rust free is that me and my car are from ca..
You could buy my manifold. Then I'll Finally get to see if it fits. If it doesn't I'd send the $ back or modify it. I'm around the brookings area, so shipping to rapid city wouldn't cost very much, either. I still need to weld on a wastegate flange though. I have one for the tial 44mm v band gate.

God
10-16-2008, 05:17 PM
And there I was, thinking god didn't exist..little did I know..
So, why the F did you chose an 86 accord as a project car? Did you actually find one in SD with no rust? The only reason mine is rust free is that me and my car are from ca..
You could buy my manifold. Then I'll Finally get to see if it fits. If it doesn't I'd send the $ back or modify it. I'm around the brookings area, so shipping to rapid city wouldn't cost very much, either. I still need to weld on a wastegate flange though. I have one for the tial 44mm v band gate.

yea i found one without any rust and only 56000miles my buddys dad bought it when it was new and it was in there family since gavin drove it for awhile but wanted a CRX and the real kicker is i only paid $400 bucks for it but as far as a manifold i heard you can take a B series turbo manifold and weld a A series flang also i heard rumor that you have a B swap done to your car if so who did this for you?

Accordtheory
10-18-2008, 09:43 AM
First, no one does anything for me, except for some body work and alignments. I do it all myself, which can be a real pain in the ass sometimes, but the way I see it, I don't do this shit to advertise someone else's skills, I do it to express myself. I built my motor, mounts, wiring harness, obd1 conversion, etc. Last thing I did was chipping and converting my p75 ecu to a p28 (vtec) after I dropped my gsr head on. When the weather gets nice again I'll be rolling with a homemade turbo setup with a holset hx40, and some new paint and bodywork too. $400, nice deal. I paid $2500 for my 87 hatch when I bought it 8 years ago. I wanted a crx too at first, but when I sat in one, I was like, no way, this thing is just too damn small.
As far as the b series vs. a series manifold, no, you can't do what you said. By the way, if you want more info on any of this shit, just browse around a little more. You'll find a pic of my a20 manifold for sale in the forced induction section, and write ups on how to do all kinds of things like obd1 conversions, etc. There are a few people on here with turbo a20s, too. But the problem with the turbo a20 might be more the tranny than the motor though. Johnny O ran 10s with his, I had maybe 220whp and I ripped all the teeth of my 5th gear, wtf. But after more learning, I realized that straight motor oil doesn't cut it in a high hp tranny, you need a thicker oil with extreme pressure additives. I just had 30w in mine, as recommended in the service manual. (cali weather, no need for a multi viscosity oil) So who knows..
I've been trying to convince people on here for a while now to do a big boost, yet still inexpensive turbo system on an a20 using a holset turbo, but no one has done it yet. You wouldn't need really expensive parts, a holset hy35 from a dodge cummins, ($300 or less) 1000cc injectors, the aebs ($120) intake manifold, the walbro pump, a big precision front mount, and a decent obd1 setup like hondata (that will also eliminate like 90% of the hoses and outdated crap in the engine bay) and maybe a bigger cam. That setup should be able to exceed 400whp, but you should have forged pistons at that power level, and probably the eagle rods for peace of mind. The weaknesses of the a20 are the head and long stroke with a lousy rod/stroke ratio, the strengths are the cast iron block and the amount of torque the motor can make with boost. The a20 with boost accelerates like an old american muscle car, basically the opposite of a b16, which really has to spin to move the car.

Accordtheory
10-18-2008, 09:51 AM
custom forged pistons for $800 and custom forged rods for bout $1000

Use the eagle ls rods. They are very inexpensive, like $400 or less. There are a lot of snooty fucks on honda-tech.com who look down on eagles with their manley, pauter, crower, etc, rods, but no one has ever posted about a broken eagle rod on honda-tech. And when they're supposedly rated at 900hp for the b series, little wonder why.

2oodoor
10-18-2008, 04:23 PM
yea i found one without any rust and only 56000miles my buddys dad bought it when it was new and it was in there family since gavin drove it for awhile but wanted a CRX and the real kicker is i only paid $400 bucks for it but as far as a manifold i heard you can take a B series turbo manifold and weld a A series flang also i heard rumor that you have a B swap done to your car if so who did this for you?

http://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/lurk.gif

sounds like a nice car, yep stick with the A20

God
10-18-2008, 07:00 PM
Use the eagle ls rods. They are very inexpensive, like $400 or less. There are a lot of snooty fucks on honda-tech.com who look down on eagles with their manley, pauter, crower, etc, rods, but no one has ever posted about a broken eagle rod on honda-tech. And when they're supposedly rated at 900hp for the b series, little wonder why.

So Im not going to lie im really new to the Honda engine stuff always been more of a Mitsu. guy but the LS motor is a nonvtec B18 out of the 93-95 or somethin like that Integra rite and if the rod length changes with the stock stroke dont you have to change the structure of the pistons bobafett said diamond(dont quote i would have to go look) makes a piston for the A20 using the LS rods

Accordtheory
10-19-2008, 03:38 PM
The ls rods are the same length as the a20 rods. They have a different wristpin diameter though. If the pistons are custom, obviously the wristpin diameter can be accomodated.

89T
10-19-2008, 05:10 PM
as the a/p said you can run custom pistons or order 83mm b18a/b pistons but you will have to bore the block to match.

the only difference would be an extra valve relief.

rfiks
11-03-2008, 08:30 PM
sooo, whats this company called (mounts) and how much for a complete set of engine mounts??? do they do k20a as well as b-series v-tec?>