Cylinder Head Removal - Suggestions? (Overheat Post Mortem)

[marklj]

RE: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65913

I managed to save up enough funds now to start the post mortem exam, and if the head is not cracked, block pistons damaged, etc., :nervous: I should be able to get it back on the road.

I browsed through the posts for the last year or so to look for tips on doing this. I got the tools and garage space to do it right and have done engine work before but mostly on Detroit iron. I’ve got the Clymer service manual from Auto Zone for the details.

What I’ve gathered so far:

Put the engine at #1 TDC. Remove cylinder head with intake and exhaust attached. Take the head bolts out from outside to inside or you could warp the head. Keep the head bolts labeled so that you can put them back in their original holes. Tap and chase the head bolt threads in the block deck. Clean head bolts with a wire brush.

Assuming the head is serviceable and just need resurfaced:

Use a good brand head gasket & don't cheap out. Replace the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, and water pump. Replace hard to get to cooling hoses.

Any other tips you can think of?

And replacing the radiator that caused this whole mess…

“Koyo is the best aftermarket”, “My car has had a Spectra radiator for 3+ years without issues.” Brands recommended?

Thanks for the help!

[nswst8]

If you can pul the head and intake as one unit, TDC doesn't really matter at this time. Just when you get ready to put the timing belt on, if you want to set it there before hand thats cool.

AJUSA, Felpro is good, but go with honda OEM if funds permit.

And then fix what ever forced the headgasket to fail in the first place.

[VIPER1988]

dont remember what i looked it up for or what brand it was. but i got a radiator that was copper core w/ brass tanks. fit the same mounts just had to get a different size cap. will try to find receipt so i can tell what brand and what i looked up to find it.

[nfs480]

For sure use a Honda OEM head gasket and if possible a Honda OEM radiator.

[Demon1024]

if it sat for a year with a blown head gasket you might have some real problems if coolant got in the cylinders due to rust

[marklj]

if it sat for a year with a blown head gasket you might have some real problems if coolant got in the cylinders due to rust

Already thought of that. :thumbup: I drained the coolant, removed the sparkplugs and spun the engine over, then sprayed a bunch of WD-40 in the sparkplug holes and spun it over some more. It only been sitting for about 2 months.

[marklj]

I surfed the main three auto parts suppliers in the area, AutoZone, Advance, and O Reilly. And here is what I found…

Head gasket kits are around $100. Fel Pro seems to be the only line carried for the 3G. Honda OEM head gasket only is $75 - $100.

Radiators brands are Transpro, Ready-Rad, Spi, Spectra, and Visteon. The Visteon is the most expensive at $160. The rest are around $100 - $130. OEM Honda is $250 - $300.

Timing Belt Component Kits (belt and tensioner) are around $60 - $70. The Beck/Arnley Highly Saturated Nitrile would seem to be the best choice. :confused: The other brands are Goodyear and Gates.

[greentee76]

I used a Felpro kit when I did mine and it worked fine. The nice thing is you get a bunch of gaskets that you may not end up using, but if you're a hoarder like me are great to have on hand for a later date. I also used a Felpro head gasket when I did my "refreshed" engine, no problem to date.

[88Accord-DX]

Fel-pro is good choice. Some other things to do; Check you head to make sure it's not warped. IF it is between .002 - .008 in., the head will need resurfaced. Blow the bolt holes out with compressed air. After you clean your head bolts and wire brush them, put a light coat of oil on the threads & below the head of the bolt. Have someone help you lay the head on the block if your intake & exhaust is mounted to the head. You don't want to pull a muscle in your back. Make sure that oil guide pin is where it should be on the block before you set the head on it. You'll need a torque wrench. The head bolts are tightened 22 ft. lbs. on the first pass, then 49 ft. lbs. on the second sweep. In fact, a few extra pounds is ok too with re-used head bolts IMO.

[marklj]

Fel-pro is good choice. Some other things to do; Check you head to make sure it's not warped. IF it is between .002 - .008 in., the head will need resurfaced. Blow the bolt holes out with compressed air. After you clean your head bolts and wire brush them, put a light coat of oil on the threads & below the head of the bolt. Have someone help you lay the head on the block if your intake & exhaust is mounted to the head. You don't want to pull a muscle in your back. Make sure that oil guide pin is where it should be on the block before you set the head on it. You'll need a torque wrench. The head bolts are tightened 22 ft. lbs. on the first pass, then 49 ft. lbs. on the second sweep. In fact, a few extra pounds is ok too with re-used head bolts IMO.

After I get the head off and look for obvious defects, it will next go to a local machine shop. They will pressure test the head for cracks and massive warping. If it passes this, then they will do a light resurface of the head.
Good idea on the staged torque down. I’ve heard of doing it in three to five incremental steps. Does it require a torque check after a heat up and cool down cycle? :dunno:

Stumbled across a detailed article about cylinder head resurfacing. Interesting read.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar996.htm

“The typical recommendation today for an aluminum head on an OHC bimetal engine is a surface finish of 30 to 60 RA, with the preferred range being from 50 to 60 RA…” :cool:

[88Accord-DX]

After I get the head off and look for obvious defects, it will next go to a local machine shop. They will pressure test the head for cracks and massive warping. If it passes this, then they will do a light resurface of the head.
Good idea on the staged torque down. I’ve heard of doing it in three to five incremental steps. Does it require a torque check after a heat up and cool down cycle?
Yeah, pressure test it for sure. Some machine shops won't warranty their work without a pressure test. If the head is still within limits, I wouldn't pay for a re-surface unless you just want it done. Depending on the mileage, I'd have the machine shop re-surface the valves & seats w/ new valve stem seals since you got the head there. A little more money, but worth it in the long haul.
3-5 increments probably is better for torquing the head bolts. IMO, a torque check isn't required after a cool down, but is good to check. After I put my rebuilt head on, after about 1,000 miles I re-torqed my head bolts a few more ft. lbs. when I re-adjusted the valve lash.

[Oldblueaccord]

MLS head gaskets you don't have to worry to much about the surface finish more important that its fairly flat.


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