The JDM B20A 2g Thread w/ Pics!!

[2ndGenGuy]

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

My JDM parts finally came in today! They were delivered on a huge ass truck, in a huge ass box! I gotta say thanks to Aaron (AccordB20A/Wohdog) and Alex (3gcvc) for hooking me up with these parts! I don't have a lot of time to post today, so here are the pics of what I could get so far...

[2ndGenGuy]

The great big JDM Box!!!!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3047/3057293390_e0852837b4.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3057293390/)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3194/3057296058_3543fc3a18.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3057296058/)

Just to give you an idea how big the box is, here's the ruts the truck left!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3032/3056456733_750fe5eaab.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3056456733/)

ZOMG JDM HeadlightS!!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3142/3056464507_2903c52941.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3056464507/)

ZOMG Ducktail Spoilers!!!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3150/3056461949_5d2750e260.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3056461949/)

ZOMG JDM B20A Mad Tyte Engine!!!!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3291/3057298446_3e6eddd90c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3057298446/)

More pics to come as I get to tear into this box some more!!! But for now it's time to get back to work before lunch is over!

[Hazwan]

Congrats :thumbup:

Finally you got yourself the JDM headlights! Keep us posted!

[carotman]

Weee!

Nice Goldtop B20A

I hope you're going to keep it EFI :D

[2ndGenGuy]

Weee!

Nice Goldtop B20A

I hope you're going to keep it EFI :D

Thanks guys!

We shall see about the EFI. :D

[A18A]

cool beans!

[bullard123]

Good to see it finally came! Did you have to go do all of the customs paperwork?

[84Accord]

those lights suck :thumbdn:. now send em to me :wave: ;) :eek5: lol jk. i cant wait to see the lights on your 2g. looks good so far john!

[TWOLOUDNPROUD]

Sweet Christmas Present you have there:cheers:

[2ndGenGuy]

Good to see it finally came! Did you have to go do all of the customs paperwork?

Yeah it wasn't much. I just took the Arrival Notice that I got into the customs office. What is interesting is that the engines only got into the country due to the fact that they're older than 21 years old. Anything 21 years old or NEWER has to pass EPA certification. So how the f**k have all these B20As gotten into the country years ago, and how do all the newer JDM engines get in? I guarantee the only reason a JDM engine isn't sold here in the first place is because of the fact that it doesn't meet EPA specs. So I am assuming that every JDM engine here is only here because the engine importers LIE to customs.

[bullard123]

Yeah it wasn't much. I just took the Arrival Notice that I got into the customs office. What is interesting is that the engines only got into the country due to the fact that they're older than 21 years old. Anything 21 years old or NEWER has to pass EPA certification. So how the f**k have all these B20As gotten into the country years ago, and how do all the newer JDM engines get in? I guarantee the only reason a JDM engine isn't sold here in the first place is because of the fact that it doesn't meet EPA specs. So I am assuming that every JDM engine here is only here because the engine importers LIE to customs.

Lol wow. Yes its some lieing going on big time. I think I had to pay more to get mine here because it had to travel from the Port in California all the way to Denver. Lol im glad all thats over!

[Rendon LX-i]

Damn dude i gotta to see it sometime we meet again lol...what your plans? Where did u get your b20 from man?

Rendonlxi

[2ndGenGuy]

I got my B20A from Wohdog and 3gcvc. Took a little while to get here, but well worth the wait! These guys did the packaging up right, and included EVERYTHING!

[Rendon LX-i]

oh so they from the forum then damn it...maybe i have to get one myself if i dont rebuild my a20 again...5speed and all you lucky fucker lol...

Rendon

[Lil Mike]

where do i get my set of jdmness, looks good what are your plans with the b20a?

[Dr_Snooz]

Awesome! Christmas comes early to the 2ndGen household! Congrats dude. Can't wait to see what you do with it all.

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah I wish I could get started on it right now. I'm taking vacation in Phoenix for the next two weeks, so I'll have to wait until I get back... It's going to make it a long-ass vacation! Plan for now is to get it mounted up in the 2gee, and then decide if I want to go with dual Webers or EFI. Megasquirt and some ITBs would be pretty sweet. My geek side wants an ECU, but my nostalgic side wants to turn screws and build linkage!!!

[Hazwan]

If I were you I'd Megasquirt the 2g. You know how geeky could it be with wires, computers and all?? :D Imagine tuning with your laptop and all.. mmmmm.. :D

If you want to turn screws, why don't you do it in 1g with some mad Weber setups! Keep it old school.

[AccordB20A]

Looks like a nice score you got there, good to see the bocks arrived in good nick. Make sure to include pics of how the engines are bolted into the bocks :D

[SZfiftyfour]

Zomg Jdm Headlights!!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3142/3056464507_2903c52941.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3056464507/)


<--jealous:mad:...... well at any rate congrats on sweet jdm goodness:D Cant wait for upcoming threads!

[carotman]

I would just make it run with the stock EFI ECU. It's got plenty of power and reliability with that.

[2oodoor]

great!
don't let the fuel management query hold you up, just use your weber DGV and get it running. You will have enough things to work out meanwhile. Only thing is , make sure you dremel or cut out anything that makes those intake manifold nuts hard to get to before you install either which one. That way you save a lot of work later when you decide to change.
Also, I want to know if the internals of a A20 dizzy would fit in the B20 dizzy. Not sure about the shaft though. The D16zc dizzy that works for these looks like it would swap internals easy.

[84Accord]

i say keep it carbed. keep it old school. plus, it'd be one of the very few carbed b20 i know of haha

[AccordB20A]

lol i didnt sopend over an hour making a standalone efi loom for nothing, if he carbs it i want the ecu and loom back :)

[2ndGenGuy]

Only time will tell, folks! You're gonna have to wait until at least January before I get an induction system figured out. Muhahah!

[3GCVC]

EFI ftw the JDM ES was injected so why not the B20A as well. i sure hope i put the conversion harness in, its like 5 wires to hookup and put a fuel pump in and away it goes so how could you not do it efi

i can see some damage on teh box, i want to know how many legs the box has still on the bottom so turn it over when your done and get some pics

[2oodoor]

lol i didnt sopend over an hour making a standalone efi loom for nothing, if he carbs it i want the ecu and loom back :)

that was cool, I would agree not to chunk any of it but he needs a tank from an efi 2nd gen which there were not too many of those around were they?
I guess we don't have an example of a carbed b20 documented yet, Im feeling motivated yes.

[2ndGenGuy]

Nah I'd just get an inline EFI pump from a 2g Prelude. The 2gee has no in tank pump, it's right under the left side of the car like a VW Rabbit.

[Ichiban]

Kickass! Finally got online after over a week!

There should be an engine, busted bellhousing, ECU and maybe an intermediate shaft in there for me!

[79cord]

Congratulations.
I vote Factory EFI for nostalgic JDM & factory subtlety. But agree other options have their temptations too...

LOL I still haven't polished & boxed up that other pair of '85 indicators for you either to try posting !... But as a bonus the US econonmic termoil has pushed the value of the Australian $ down !?!

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah, it's a tough choice for sure!

So that means because the AUD went down that shipping for me should be cheaper? LOL. Well I do have a set now, so maybe if another member wants them they should get dibs. But if not, I definitely will be down for a spare set!! Lots of gravel trucks this time of year just looking to crack your beautiful new Stanley glass housings.

BTW, those housings and sidemarkers I got look amazing! They look brand new! Good work snagging those for me, Alex or Aaron or whoever snagged it.

[2ndGenGuy]

Kickass! Finally got online after over a week!

There should be an engine, busted bellhousing, ECU and maybe an intermediate shaft in there for me!

Yeah man, been wondering where you've been!! I've gotta tear into it and get pics for ya. I gotta get the tranny off of your motor anyways before I leave on Sunday.

[84Accord]

Yeah, it's a tough choice for sure!

So that means because the AUD went down that shipping for me should be cheaper? LOL. Well I do have a set now, so maybe if another member wants them they should get dibs. But if not, I definitely will be down for a spare set!! Lots of gravel trucks this time of year just looking to crack your beautiful new Stanley glass housings.

BTW, those housings and sidemarkers I got look amazing! They look brand new! Good work snagging those for me, Alex or Aaron or whoever snagged it.

too bad its for a sedan. id love a set for my hatch

[Civic Accord Honda]

awesome!!! looks hella good :D

[forrest89sei]

Yay! W00t

[2oodoor]

Kickass! Finally got online after over a week!

There should be an engine, busted bellhousing, ECU and maybe an intermediate shaft in there for me!

Perhaps you will be making a couple of those now since you have an example to go by?

[AccordB20A]

forrests post sounds soo sarcaastic. lol he might be teh jelous.

I didnt have any half shafts there so i didnt send one, i have an auto one now tho after doing an auto tyo manual swap, its just too late to install it in the bocks.

John should make suire the motors turn over, and mike when you get your B20A i would suggest removing the sump, cleaning it and putting it back on with a new gasket/sealer of some sort.

[Ichiban]

Perhaps you will be making a couple of those now since you have an example to go by?

Haha! I need to kick the old man offa the HAAS mill so I can start making space shuttle parts (and bellhousings!)


forrests post sounds soo sarcaastic. lol he might be teh jelous.

Ahhaaa! You should find him a JDM 350 for his truck. Maybe they made more HP than the JDM B20A did stock. USDM ones didn't!




I didnt have any half shafts there so i didnt send one, i have an auto one now tho after doing an auto tyo manual swap, its just too late to install it in the bocks.

I have a B20A5 shaft, which I'm sure is for an auto. How do you tell the difference again? Except the bracket is unreal different than the B20A was, not even much of a starting point really.



John should make suire the motors turn over, and mike when you get your B20A i would suggest removing the sump, cleaning it and putting it back on with a new gasket/sealer of some sort.

Is it teh buggered? Just leaky? or some sort of problem down there?

[2ndGenGuy]

Moar pics!

I froze my ass off tonight pulling the B20A transmission in the dark for SnoopyLoopy. Didn't realize just how much shit was in that crate. Tons of newspaper 'n shit. I think I've finally seen everything in it!!! Lots of fun bits. There are some tails for a 2.5g hatch... Unfortunately not for my car lol! Found the ER turbo bits, but no valve cover :( But I did get two ER turbo manifolds which was unexpected and FTW! My camera batteries died so I only got what I could of the pics!!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3163/3063231618_73dcaef466.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3063231618/)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3041/3063232228_1c3c056f87.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3063232228/)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3010/3063232948_5316ce553a.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3063232948/)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3197/3062395131_fd8a80ae21.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3062395131/)

Fuck now I see where I left my flashlight. Inside the damn box. Oh well, I'll get it later. :-x

EDIT: Alex just let me know that the ER valve cover is in one of the cardboard boxes. I have yet to open them all, it's like Christmas yay!!!!!!!!

[3GCVC]

oh and actually i think those 2.5g smoked tails are for you i found them somewhere so i chucked them in for you.

[AccordB20A]

Is it teh buggered? Just leaky? or some sort of problem down there?

just want to make sure your motor wont be a dud when you get it going. it was siting under a tarp with no intake for a bit. it leaks oil yes its covered in it thats why some sealer will be good. and i have no idea what muck gunk and water will be sitting in the bottom of the sump

[Placebo]

Yeah, it's a tough choice for sure!

So that means because the AUD went down that shipping for me should be cheaper? LOL. Well I do have a set now, so maybe if another member wants them they should get dibs. But if not, I definitely will be down for a spare set!! Lots of gravel trucks this time of year just looking to crack your beautiful new Stanley glass housings.

BTW, those housings and sidemarkers I got look amazing! They look brand new! Good work snagging those for me, Alex or Aaron or whoever snagged it.

Any of you guys have any experience with 3m's scotchguard film? I've heard awesome things about it. You made me think of it with that gravel truck comment. I wonder if that stuff would help.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotchgard-PPF/Home/

[84Accord]

JOHN!!! you said 2.5g tails?!?!?! :D i want em! my left one is cracked. how much do you want for em?

[bullard123]

Hey 2ndgenguy you should check out all of those water pumps on your B20A's. I know mine was rusted out pretty bad and so was Roodoo's. If you need some let me know. I have some for sale. Brand New

[AccordB20A]

yeah i also agree that both you and mike should obtain new water pumps

[Ichiban]

how bout oil pumps and timing belts?

[A18A]

i've only ever known of 1 b20a oil pump failure out of every b20a ive seen, so i'd think you would be safe there

[AccordB20A]

you know of an oil pump that failed
?! thats news to me i havent lol.

i would service the engines before using them. motors that sit tend to fail their serviceable parts

[2ndGenGuy]

Fuck it, I'm going to get it mounted up and working first. Then I'll pull it and service it.

[AccordB20A]

mean i cant wait till work on this starts :)

[2ndGenGuy]

You and me both. Still won't be home for another week at least! :-o

[2oodoor]

Fuck it, I'm going to get it mounted up and working first. Then I'll pull it and service it.

2ndGG you can pull the oil pan while it is out, that way you can inspect the cyl condition and oil sump without any major disassembly. I made a comment somewhere about taking the thermostat hsg off and tell me what you see. What I meant by that is when I took mine off it was like they used salt water for coolant in Japan. That prompted me to do the water pump as well, but it was not as bad, still there is a lot of corrosion in these B20s sometimes. Look at some other's motors here , around the coolant ports with the head off you see red orange even after the engines have been run a while with new coolant.
I got a handy tool at work now that I can use, it is a video camera on a stick, with a 3inch screen. It can be used to inspect cyl, coolant ports, hell Im even going to try to use it under my carb while it is running. Shoot it in thru the big vaccum port in the back, to see what kind of puddling is going on.
http://www.toolsforless.com/product/30024/Milwaukee_2300-20_6V_Digital_Inspection_Camera

[bullard123]

Yes and i really think that he should check that water pump as well. Its a lot easier to replace the parts while its out of the car

[2ndGenGuy]

Hmmm... it's sort of a pain in the ass to pull parts off of the engine while it's on a hoist. I suppose I could bolt it to my engine stand and do the work. I was planning on pulling it back out anyways and resealing the whole thing after I get it fitted and probably blasting and painting it... I guess I'll see how things go.

[2oodoor]

don't get why but whatever makes you enjoy it most!!
I do know if you plan on taking the downpipe off anytime, do it with the engine out. LOL I just about had to remove the engine to get that sucka off, finally had it jacked up with front n side mounts off, trans crossmember out, PS pump off, just to sawsall the thing so I didnt have to remove the front crossmember or the whole engine!

use two chains on the hoist, one to stabilize and keep from twisting , or strap of some kind to the nearest heavy thing like a table bolted to the ground.. lol

[2ndGenGuy]

Bah I dunno!!! LOL! You're right, I'll at least pull the pan and make sure the oil screen is clear, and I'll figure out what water pump I can use on this block. That stuff won't take that long anyways. There's going to be plenty of custom fitting, like maybe PS lines and AC lines... And exhaust... And fuel lines... I might as well get the easy stuff out of the way first! :D

[2oodoor]

Bah I dunno!!! LOL! You're right, I'll at least pull the pan and make sure the oil screen is clear, and I'll figure out what water pump I can use on this block. That stuff won't take that long anyways. There's going to be plenty of custom fitting, like maybe PS lines and AC lines... And exhaust... And fuel lines... I might as well get the easy stuff out of the way first! :D

Where is you PS pump? my line transfered right over but I did have to use the jdm pump, never even moved the lines.
Exhaust, should be close to the same as yours past the downpipe. I could have used what was there I could not get my downpipe off to work on plumbing it out without cutting my A20 DC parts up which I want to use on the other car.
fuel lines, same for carbed.... EFI you have your work cut out for you.
Axles may be something you will school us on, 2nd gen axles are not interchangeable with 3rd Gen are they? so you wont be able to use the RT side on the left for the interemediate? Maybe 2nd gen lude woudl work...

[Ichiban]

Axles may be something you will school us on, 2nd gen axles are not interchangeable with 3rd Gen are they? so you wont be able to use the RT side on the left for the interemediate? Maybe 2nd gen lude woudl work...

Got this one all figured out.

[bullard123]

Bah I dunno!!! LOL! You're right, I'll at least pull the pan and make sure the oil screen is clear, and I'll figure out what water pump I can use on this block. That stuff won't take that long anyways. There's going to be plenty of custom fitting, like maybe PS lines and AC lines... And exhaust... And fuel lines... I might as well get the easy stuff out of the way first! :D

I have a brand new water pump for sale for the B20A for $35 shipped. Its listed in the trading post section. I know mine was really rusted out when I had my B20A out lol

[AccordB20A]

i think turks engine should be okay with just a water pump its mikes motor thats got the oil leaks lol

[2ndGenGuy]

Limited time this weekend. But still managed to make it to the wreckers for a quick peek around...

What do we have here? Oh a grey 2g sedan. Looks pretty beat...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3368/3190911510_0f672bd0c2.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3190911510/)

Remote Fuel Door...?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3400/3190913144_2966d2a985.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3190913144/)

Leather Interior...? Is this what I think it is?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3399/3190915948_3fcf57ebf9.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3190915948/)

Yeah bitches! An SE-i! Mine for the pillaging!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3264/3190068539_ebc09f5406.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3190068539/)

Most important thing I need is those hubs and axles to make that B20A fit in... SNIPE!!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3349/3190912360_1c3d55fe10.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3190912360/)

Oh yes, all mine. Took the super hard to find rear mudflaps. They're bent but in good shape. I have them flattening out right now. I think they'll be allright.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3304/3190070551_7c26e08796.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3190070551/)

Next weekend, I've gotta go back for the rear control arms (for the rear swaybar) and I'm probably going to take the power mirrors and see if I can't fix up the driver's side mirror. Then I'll probably snag that remote fuel door, and the fuel pump. Suppose the tank might be useful, but I think it would be easier to just run a return into mine.

Then I gotta get the B20As actually out of the box and get Mike's up to him, and drop mine in so I can get it out of the way.

[2oodoor]

great hunting!!! nice kill

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh yeah :D

[carotman]

You should just get the whole car.

You could install an EFI B20A in your car with the SE-i EFI system.

You could grab the fuel pump with lines and all the dash wire harness + engine harness.

This would make things very easy for the B20A swap.

[2ndGenGuy]

Isn't the B20A distributor an electronic advance? I'm pretty sure the ES3 is vacuum advance. So wouldn't that require a bunch of wiring anyways? I've already got the B20A harness and ECU, and it's been chopped down already so I shouldn't have to wire much.

I was thinking about that though. Taking the tank and all that. But then I have another tank to dispose of. The tanks are basically the same, still an inline pump. I can just run a return line into my tank easily enough. I'll take a closer look at that car when I'm at the yard this Saturday...

[carotman]

Isn't the B20A distributor an electronic advance? I'm pretty sure the ES3 is vacuum advance. So wouldn't that require a bunch of wiring anyways? I've already got the B20A harness and ECU, and it's been chopped down already so I shouldn't have to wire much.

I was thinking about that though. Taking the tank and all that. But then I have another tank to dispose of. The tanks are basically the same, still an inline pump. I can just run a return line into my tank easily enough. I'll take a closer look at that car when I'm at the yard this Saturday...

You have 3 wires to add

1 for the igniter and 2 for the crank sensor. That's it!

Using the whole SE-i harness would really help to simplify troubleshooting in the future. You would have stock parts to diagnose and all the wire routing would be like OEM.

I doubt the tanks are the same. I'm sure the EFI tank has some baffles in it.

Converting to EFI isn't a hard job to do honestly. When I 1st installed my B20A, I ran it with the stock A20ECU and a teg distributor.

[2ndGenGuy]

Hmm. Interesting... you do have a good point about having USDM parts to play with. But I was planning on switching to OBD-I after I get it running anyways... I guess I'll have to look into that a little deeper. While I'm at it, I think you've convinced me to pull that harness... aaaand the gas tank. Hopefully they didn't puncture it at the yard. It's the most common way they drain the tanks around here.

[carotman]

If you later want to switch to OBD1, just get a conversion harness or make one yourself from junkyard parts :D

[thegreatdane]

You would want to get the tank. I'm sure it's not punctured since honda tanks have drain bolts.

[2ndGenGuy]

You would want to get the tank. I'm sure it's not punctured since honda tanks have drain bolts.

The yard my friend works at doesn't undo any drain bolts. They puncture, drain, stack, then crush a few weeks later. Luckily this isn't the yard my friend works at, so I hope you are right!

[AccordB20A]

thats such good news, take the whole damn car if you have to man.
and it would be easier to add those extra wires than install the specially made standalone B20A efi loom i made.

this is probably enough to make ur car work!!

[2ndGenGuy]

I just cross-referenced the tanks. They carry the same part numbers for the SEi and the LX. I'm not convinced that the tanks are any different.

Both came up as: 17010-SA6-671

And it shows that it fits both cars when I looked it up at another site:

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/accord/17010-SA6-671~ca13sa51.html

I think I'll just keep my tank. :)

[carotman]

Yeah keep your tank then!

Grab the hoses and all the other SE-i/EFI goodies.

Grab the speedometer and dash wire harness too. The ECU will need a speed sensor input and I'm really unsure if your stock carb speedo will have this one.

[2ndGenGuy]

Definitely going to do that! :)

I'm going to grab the fuel pump and as many lines as I can. The filter and all that good stuff that feeds up to the fuel rail. Mainly for the bracketry and test fitting.

I've already got my speedo tapped for VSS. The wire is running across the dash to where I will be putting the ECU. Cluster is such a pain to pull, I'm going to leave the SEi one as is. It's literally a clusterfuck. :) All the 2geez with cruise have a VSS in them.

Thanks for your help, guys. Your suggestions are always appreciated!

[AccordB20A]

yay with the tanks being the same. Altho you dont need a vss on a pre 1988 ecu it doesnt throw an error code. it just remvoes the speed limiter and cold rev limit so i wouldnt bother lol

[thegreatdane]

Yay for ancient technology :D I thought it was like the 2nd gen prelude which I'm certain use one tank for carb and another for Fuel injection.

[LX-incredible]

Cool project!

It looks to me like the return goes in to the plate of the sending unit (37800-SD7-974) which is exclusive to the 85 SE-i. Be sure to grab that as well.

Tank shouldn't need baffles with an externally mounted pump.

[2ndGenGuy]

Good call on that plate! That will save me from drilling or tapping any holes.

I'm going to run the VSS wire, since I'm sure I'll eventually need it for OBD-I or something. I'm assuming. :D

And the low-speed rev limiter is sweet! It's like GT-R style launch control! :rofl:

[cubert]

And the low-speed rev limiter is sweet! It's like GT-R style launch control! :rofl:


you friggin ricer :lol:



Nice find at the junkyard...I miss having a car that I can actually go to the JY for,,,


cant wait to see this thing done.

[Ichiban]

I probably should have mentioned this awhile ago, but when I was back home in November, I hit up my favourite J/Y and found an 87 Prelude Si. Got everything. I also managed to get a drivers side inside door lock, and a passenger side mirror.

Anyways, I'm interested to see how the pressure line is run inside the cab for 2G EFI, I plan on buying a roll of fuel hardline and simulating the factory installation, with proper flares, brackets and everything. Having a shitty connection or a line vibrating and wearing a hole in itself, with 30 PSI gas spraying everywhere isn't something I'm interested in. Gonna need some firewall grommets as well, and a good way of securing the 3rd line to the car. I've already scrounged the 3g EFI fuel filter assy, 2 stage A20A3 intake manifold, BT1 engine harness and ECU.

I need 2x short side Se-i Accord axles, I can't seem to find them anywhere in Canada. John?

[2ndGenGuy]

I should be able to get you the short side axles. I'd have to probably pick them up reman'd from NAPA if that's allright. The SEi at the yard was just pure luck. I found it while I was scrounging parts out of an LX. Looked up and was like "oooh snap!" First time ever seeing one up close.

My plan for now is to not run the equal length halfshafts until I've got all the bugs worked out. I have a feeling we'll need to somehow shorten the mid-shaft.

Also, I do need to get your engine packaged up, but I can't do that until I get mine out of the crate. I'm going to work on that this weekend. At least get my B20A set up in my car, then reuse the crate materials. I gotta see who will ship it, and if I can ship it without building sides on it. That will definitely save me some time. If I can't get it ready for shipping by this weekend, maybe next weekend.

[2ndGenGuy]

Fuck. I went to the yard today. I spent like 4 hours pulling the dash, gauges, steering column, and then the place closed. I got the power mirrors which they fuckin reamed me for. I don't think I want to pull the fuel lines or that ECU.

That engine has about 40 different vacuum lines on it with sensors in the black box. I don't see any point pulling out the whole harness, when I have a harness that actually fits the engine. The modifications are going to be the same regardless of which harness I use. I can't use the SEi computer with the electronic ignition. So, I dunno.

Also the fuel lines, there's really nothing fancy about them. They both run up right next to eachother in the same places. The line in the base model and the LX is the same line in the SEi, except that line is used as the return back to the tank. And there is just another line run up along next to it as the main pressure line. It winds up along the firewall inside the cabin behind fuckin' EVERYTHING that I just spent 10 hours pulling and reinstalling. Then it comes out the firewall near the heater core outlets. It just doesn't quite seem worth it to me to pull all that hard line out and then reinstall it all in my car. But then again, I'm just irritated that I ran out of time at the yard. I don't want to go back again next weekend. The car is so fucking gross, mold everywhere and some fuck dumped the ash tray all over the car.

I feel like I spent 5 hours there just to pull a pair of electric mirrors, which I don't have a control switch for, and got nothing else out of the car. Grr. Back to work anyways.

[2oodoor]

I know exactly what you mean, you put that effort in with a weak payoff, you really dont want to muck with the muck. There would be no point in having the oem harness , really no difference as long as you have what you need already. Neatness is about the only reason and hell if you do a wire tuck and have to add wire anyway what is the point it is going to be custom wire job geesh.
Sounds like you may want the tank hardware though but not neccesarliy the tank itself. Return lines and nipples or whatchamacallitz

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah, I had a hard time staying focused on what I wanted when I was there, too. I think when I go back, I'm going to grab the top of the tank, and the remote fuel door release. Then I'm done. I just wanna get going on this. Eventually, I don't want to run this ECU anyways, going to Megasquirt or some other option that I can do myself.

[AccordB20A]

Sounds like a good plan

[2ndGenGuy]

Got the ES all disconnected from everything tonight. The carb is off, the header, the wiring, cables, linkage and everything is out of the engine bay. All I gotta do in the morning is drain the fluids (too cold to go get the drain pan tonight) and unbolt the motor and out she comes. Should have the B20A in by tomorrow night. At least mounted up.

Trying to figure out what to do with all that good stuff. I've got a good starter, good alternator, the header I'll have no use for, the alloy flywheel, carb adapter plates.... Maybe I should save it for a future project. The 38 will definitely go on the hatch after I replace the secondary, vacuum-powered accelerator pump...

[2oodoor]

I uses my starter on the B20. Alternator you can use too , just swap the regulator that has the extra pin.
flywheel, send it to me with the 38 heh heh
I procrastinated a few weeks just over taking out the good running motor, low and behold I still aint got the car on the road yet. Good thing I have the other 3rd gen to get my 3geez jones on.

That header you may can use the downpipe for it if you get the header part. Mine would fit perfectly on the hedman but I dont want to butcher up a good DC A20 header.

[2ndGenGuy]

Well the problem is that the ES and the A20 won't swap those parts. So I don't think they'll swap from the ES to the B20A.

Nice sig by the way :thumbup:

[carotman]

Do you have all the electric windows and stuff in your car? swapping the harnesses would make the swapping these things easier.

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah, it's power everything. The only thing I'd be adding in would be the mirrors. The remote gas door release is cable operated, so no biggie there. I'll just make a seperate harness for the mirrors, so I don't have to hack up my harness. The driver's side power mirror is in pretty bad shape anyways and I have no idea if it will work. So making a harness outside the car and testing it out first will be the way to go. Probably going to have to snag a 3gee mirror control.

[2ndGenGuy]

Man I was hoping I'd at least have time to pull the ES and mock up the B20A. Turns out I was WAY wrong. The crate that Alex and Aaron built was built out of materials never before seen to mankind. Humongous nails that are as big as railroad spikes. It took me like 4 hours to tear to box down. I had to pull about 40 nails (literally) out of the wood. Good work building the box, it was damn sturdy.

Then after tearing the box down, I still had to figure out how to get the engine off the crate bottom. I had to rip this welded steel frame holding up the left side of the engine out, and it was also nailed down with some big-ass nails. You can see all the nails that I had to pull out...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3075/3207948299_341033d229.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3207948299/)


So anyways. The next big task was actually getting it from the crate to the garage. The main problem is that my driveway is gravel. And the engine hoist will not roll on gravel. At first I backed the trailer up right to the crate. I thought I'd hang the crane out over the engine and just lift it up. But with the wheels in the trailer, there was no way to get the crane to stick out of the trailer far enough.

So I disassembled the hoist again. And laid some plywood out on the ground. Then had to jack up the box, since the hoist wheels wouldn't go under the box. Then I shoved some 2x4s under that, and some more plywood underneath. Then I finally managed to do a 400 point turn around until it was aimed towards the trailer. Then backed the trailer up underneath the engine.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3303/3207938819_6af4661b87.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3207938819/)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3440/3208789036_02a7749ae7.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3208789036/)


Then came time to crate up Mike's engine before it got dark. So I cut the pallet in half, and recut all the wood and made a new mini-crate.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3488/3207943689_b68908d261.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3207943689/)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3255/3207945165_491ef58ced.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3207945165/)

Then unloaded my in the garage and gave it a new home for the week, until I can get some actual car work done next weekend.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3317/3207946677_b8f9298f30.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3207946677/)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3362/3208796418_0f60ba6df5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3208796418/)

[forrest89sei]

holy shit, they should build houses!

Can't Wait to see a B20 in your car :D

[Rendon LX-i]

x2 man. cant wait.

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah this wasn't very exciting, I know, but it took all day... :-(

[cubert]

well look at it this way...if there's ever a nuclear war, you can use the box as a bomb shelter :lol:


cant wait to see this come together...

[2oodoor]

Yeah this wasn't very exciting, I know, but it took all day... :-(

I so know how that goes.... you get mad when time runs out and you feel it should no way have taken that long to accomplish.
Anyway, that first picture of the nails is quite interesting, I was not sure what I was looking until I read the line.. now still it looks like they are poles washed up on the beach.
Looking at the pics of your tackle there, ha, I would have taken the hoist off the platform and used some wood, washers and lag bolts... remove the decklid from the civic and bolt the crane part inside the trunk. like a mini wrecker.. :naughty:yes I am crazy like that,
just make sure the boom goes out enough so the load does not swing back into the car.. ehh

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man I love the mini-wrecker idea. It would be sweet to hook up a load and just tow it home that way. A fold out boom would be awesome. Civic would be the ultimate repo-mobile!!

[AccordB20A]

lovely work on the bocks turk. we had to build it tough, you know what the shipping company dickheads are like with their forklifts etc .. rough as guts

looking forward to seeing the b20a in the 2g :)

[2ndGenGuy]

Pulled out the ES today:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3335/3224738386_9ca3c93261.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3224738386/)

Ripped everything out of the engine bay:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3330/3223881425_48d974b827.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3223881425/)

Dropped in the B20A:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3318/3223884587_018f7b9ea5.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3223884587/)

And here's how the mounts are, still needs work to get it the right way.

The left side mount needs to be flipped over, for some reason the bolt holes from the ES to the B20A are reversed...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3348/3224740572_fe8d20b63e.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3224740572/)

The front mount lines right up, so I didn't get pics, but the one on the back it a bit high, and seems to cause the engine to sag. I think it's because it's a 2g Prelude bracket, instead of the 3g Accord one. The 3g Accord bracket should fix the problem. And probably why some of you have engines sitting a bit goofy in the engine bay...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3432/3224741828_926b31949c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3224741828/)

And under the car, the engine just needs to be shifted over a bit...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3128/3223885563_1b75d62f18.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3223885563/)

So yeah... it's sorta in. Tomorrow, I'm going to make all the mounts fit up proper. Then start hooking everything else up.

[gfrg88]

SWEET!!!! damn, thats going to be one hell of a sleeper once its done!! What's the plan for it as far as mods go??

[Lil Mike]

thats awesome john, do you plan on doing a dyno with this engine? i dont feel like reading the last 30 posts or so but are you still planning on carbed?

[2ndGenGuy]

SWEET!!!! damn, thats going to be one hell of a sleeper once its done!! What's the plan for it as far as mods go??

I sure do hope it will be a sleeper! I want some surprise the shit out of some B16 swapped Civics. :lol: I calculated power to weight of this car, and it should be somewhere just under the Integra Type R with HP. Savings to my weight. But I believe this engine will have a better torque curve, so hopefully it will at least scare someone with one. :)

For now it's going to be stock. The rest of the car needs some serious love, as it's been sitting around not getting much action. Going to go over the suspension, and get some big swaybars going, do some minor brake work, and replace all the suspension bushings. Then interior. Then I'll probably tear down the B20A and go high compression with some headwork, cams, and will have to have a custom header installed.

As far as carbs vs EFI, I'm going back and forth, and I just can't make up my mind. I love carbs so much, but I would also love to run an OBD-I system that I can play with the tune on the computer and see all the little sensors doing their magic... So I dunno yet. :dunno:

Also, I broke some valve off the intake manifold. Looks like a white, plastic EGR valve, thought I know that's not what it is. I dunno what it is... Hope it's not important!! :)

[Ichiban]

Hey, lookin good! You should be able to swap over the block side mount from your ES onto the B20 to get it to line up like before. How does the dogbone line up?

Guess you're winning the B20 race so far, can't wait to get mine. 2009 is gonna be the year of faster and lower!!

[2ndGenGuy]

It's kind of an unfair race. Your motor being at my house and all. Too bad you wound up moving while we were waiting on the motor...

Now that you mention that, I'm going to be pissed if the ES bracket can go on the B20A. I didn't even think of doing that. I wound up doing a shitload of other work that you'll see here in my next post...

[2ndGenGuy]

So after spending about 4 hours trying to remove a rusty as FUCK bolt, I spent the rest of the day fucking with the mounts to get it tweaked just right...

So, here's my update, I'm finally not too lazy to write.

Here's a pic of the front mount. Lines right up.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3319/3228066640_684f0680d9.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3228066640/)

The rear mount, I took off of the other engine. This is actually the 3g Accord bracket, instead of the Prelude one. Makes the engine sit much better.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3257/3227212819_4ba20da65c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3227212819/)


Here are the brackets, side by side. So you can see the difference. And why those of you with B20As might have engines sitting funny in the bay...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3385/3228062556_b16c20b7fc.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3228062556/)


Here's how the side mount fits in the engine bay.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3132/3227211735_e66ec38627.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3227211735/)

The way the mount looked before

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3107/3228061182_6d72a37987.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3228061182/)

And after

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3475/3228063602_9450be7e46.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3228063602/)

Basically I just had to weld in, and redrill the holes. I thought about just flipping it over, but as you can see from the picture below, it would have made the mount sit way too low. Not only that, but the big bushing was designed to carry the weight of the engine. Not if it's flipped over...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3361/3227207253_f75c350d05.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3227207253/)

So I've got the engine in the bay... but there is an issue. Mainly the transmission is really close to the rear crossmember. I think it's going to hit, not only that but there seems to be some sidways stress on the rear mount. So I'm going to redrill the bracket so that I can adjust it.

And as suggested, I'm going to see if the ES side mount will bolt onto the B20 block. If so, I'll have to go get the stock engine mount at the junk yard, and bolt it back into the car.

[Hazwan]

Sweet!

You're making me to get a 2g as another project car!

[A18A]

if you did flip it over, you coulda used heaps of washers to make it not sit funny :P

[AccordB20A]

loving the progress :) need to see this car going :):)

[2oodoor]

boy am I glad I didnt post what I was thinking yesterday...

anyway, you are catching up with me very quickley .... you have good light in your shop btw

Have fun taking off that intake manifold?

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man that intake manifold was a pain, even with the motor out of the car. The lower bolts are virtually inaccessible. Lucky for my swivelhead socket extension!

[bullard123]

Good progress!

[carotman]

Glad to see this comming along.

I used the Accord bracket on my engine and it still sits a bit crooked (not much).

Maybe you could have used the side mount from the SE-i at the junkyard. (Just wondering)

[2ndGenGuy]

Unfortunately the SEi has the same side mount as the ES2. The SEi block is the same as the ES/A20/etc.

[carotman]

Oh, so I guess the mount on the engine itself is different between the 3rd and 2nd gen? I used my A20A side mount with no modding at all.

[Ichiban]

boy am I glad I didnt post what I was thinking yesterday...


What would that have been?

[2ndGenGuy]

boy am I glad I didnt post what I was thinking yesterday...

Yeah what were you thinking yesterday? lol

[AccordB20A]

i reckon lol

[2ndGenGuy]

I decided how I'm going to get fuel into the engine:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching&item=260351616844&viewitem=

http://www.datazap.net/sites/1961/honda%20parts/DSC06903.JPG

With 38mm throttle bodies, I calculated that these carbs would be capable of 75% more airflow than the stock 58mm throttle body. They should sound wicked too. :)

So don't bid them out from under me please! :D kthxbye

[AccordB20A]

as much as i hate carbs i would like to see those 4 carbs on johns b20

[Ichiban]

Dirt infested! Can't beat the price, though.

Funny really, I've 2 sets of ET2 twin carbs with manifolds, and was thinking today in class how I could mill off the ET2 head flange and machine up and MIG on one for the A/B20.

Kinda thinking of screwing around with those carbs for awhile, just to get it running. I'm scared of leaning out the top end though and popping the motor.

[2ndGenGuy]

You should run 4 of them!!! That would be badass, I bet i would run like a raped ape too. Though those CV carbs have kinda big vacuum chambers on top, not sure if you could fit all four in there next to eachother. I was originally eyeballing running 4 BMW Bing CV carbs from their old motorcycles. But they have big tops on them too. I'm still not ruling them out, but yeah for the price, I had to go with these for now. Yeah they're dirty, but I can clean / rebuild them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1977-BMW-R100S-40mm-Bing-CV-Carburetors_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q 7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1 Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQh ashZitem140296993202QQitemZ140296993202QQptZMotorc yclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I figure if you're running ITBs like this, they have to be at least 32mm. I think 30mm throttle bodies would be the equivalent of the stock 58mm throttle body. Or somewhere around there... I went with 38s because I want room for growth.

[cubert]

that thing is gonna sound real mean...


I have pod filters on my bike and the only thing you can hear other than the loud exhaust are the carbs sucking air :D

[Rendon LX-i]

ooyea john thats going to be sweet

[87roach]

Oh man, this is going to be a crazy setup. I can't wait to hear it! and see it in action..

[Hazwan]

OMG I can already imagine the mean intake noise!!

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man, this is going to be a crazy setup. I can't wait to hear it! and see it in action..

Looks like a fun drive up to where you live. Maybe I'll stop through with it on my way to Red Deer this summer. I gotta make it out there to see what will be the other B20A 2gee. :D

[2oodoor]

Yeah what were you thinking yesterday? lol

heh.. something about a 100+ post thread and still have not got the engine over to the car.. but you blew me outta the water before I could remark.. battleship<2nGG

Wow this thread is on the top five for me now... :D
Good now goldilocks will have her own bowl of porridge along with the three bears.. carb for each cyl.. dam metaphors.. Im sofa king read art did. :help:

[Ichiban]

Hey John, what's that B18A bellhousing look like for damage? And it did come with an ECU, right? Sorry if I already asked about this, it's been awhile and I forgot.

[AccordB20A]

Hey John, what's that B18A bellhousing look like for damage? And it did come with an ECU, right? Sorry if I already asked about this, it's been awhile and I forgot.

i cannot rememeber if i sent you an ecu or not. but since john has gotting carbs MAYBE you can have his one

[2ndGenGuy]

Some updates...

Swapped the bracket on the block for the mount on the left side of the engine bay. Turns out the ES bracket not only has the holes in the reverse pattern, but it's also a much shorter mount... Plus it's angled to fit into the engine at an angle, since the mount that's on the framerail sits at the same angle as the engine.

The ES is on the left, A20 in the middle, and B20 on the right. A20 and B20 brackets are identical as far as I can tell...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3107/3242910645_1e488da801.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3242910645/)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3262/3243743184_3f40d0d81a.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3243743184/)

Then I decided it was time to test fit axles. For some reason I couldn't get the SEi axles to go into the B20A transmission. I measured the outer diameter of the splines from the B20A axles to the SEi axles. And that much matched up. I didn't do a spline count, to see if the number of splines is the same yet.

So having given up on that, I tested out the B20A axles. As suspected, they are just a tad too long for the left side, with that midshaft in there. I can get it into the spindle just fine, but can't get the spindle to reconnect with the ball joint, as the axle is fully compressed. I figure the solution for this down the road is going to be to have the midshaft shortened.

I compared the SEi long axle length to the length of the B20A short shaft w/ midshaft. It's pretty obvious that it's longer.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/3242912531_8fc723d542.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3242912531/)

I measured from the end of the axle to the sealing surface in the transmission with the axles fully compressed. The SEi axle is 33 1/8 inches long, and the Prelude B20A axle with midshaft is 33 3/4 inches long. So I figure if I have 5/8 of an inch cut out of the axle and have the bracket on the carrier bearing moved over the same, it will let me use the equal length shafts.

The other odd thing I found is that the stub of the midshaft is longer than the SEi shaft. I'm not sure it will make any difference or not. Since the midshaft doesn't have the circip on the end of it, I think it can extend further into the transmission.

The other thing I found interesting, about the short side axle, is that between the Prelude B20A axles I have, the SEi axle, and the LX axle, they are all the same length. At least as far as I can tell. If the SEi axle turns out to have the same spline count as the B20A Prelude axle, that means that they're probably the same exact shafts. And I've actually got the B20A axle in right now, though it seems a little bit tight.

The SEi axle is on top in this picture. It's got a bad bearing in it, so it's a bit seized up which is why it looks longer. I hammered it down to full compression, and it's actually exactly the same length as the B20A axle...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3510/3242909043_226b622f9a.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3242909043/)

When I compared the LX axle I was running, it's also the same length, as well as (obviously) the short shaft that goes into the midshaft on the left side of the car.

Um, also here's the Teggy distributor on the B20A. I can't believe how it matches up:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3447/3242908155_64e486dfdc.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3242908155/)

Hope my post makes some sense. I'm tired as hell.

[Rendon LX-i]

good progress bro. So wierd how the Axles are so damn close. The the teg dizzy is a plus.

[Ichiban]

I'm confused. If the Se-i short axle is too long to work with the midshaft, won't it also be too long on the other side, considering that the midshaft is supposed to make the axle lengths equal?

Also wondering why those Se-i shafts won't fit the differential?

[Tomisimo]

WoW this is a big truck that made your front yard that muck harder to cut LoL

No Aaron is a great man, for hooking me up with Vigor tails and Power Mirrors :P

congrats on JDM supply :D

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k313/Tomisimo/3Geez/Fotka179.jpg

[2ndGenGuy]

I'm confused. If the Se-i short axle is too long to work with the midshaft, won't it also be too long on the other side, considering that the midshaft is supposed to make the axle lengths equal?

Also wondering why those Se-i shafts won't fit the differential?

I'm confused too. But here is what I know.

1) The SEi short axle, as far as I can tell, is the exact same length as the B20A 2g Prelude axle.

2) The midshaft was designed for a car wider than the 2g Accord.

3) You have no choice as to what axle you use on the short side. Just have to use whatever works. If you want equal length shafts, you have to use that same axle on the other side, and size down the midshaft appropriately.

We'll call the Prelude's track width (hub to hub) = P
Teh Accord's track width = A
B20A Prelude short axle / SEi short axle length = S
2g Accord Long Axle Length = L
Midshaft Length = M

P = S + M + S
A = L + S

P > A therefore L != (does not equal) S + M

I don't know if that makes any sense or not. Maybe I'll have to draw it out. The fact is basically, that in the 2g Prelude, the engine / transmission positioned differently than it will be in the 2g Accord.

This all assumes that I'm right about the fact that the 2.5g Accord shares the right side axle length with the 2g Prelude.

[2ndGenGuy]

WoW this is a big truck that made your front yard that muck harder to cut LoL

No Aaron is a great man, for hooking me up with Vigor tails and Power Mirrors :P

congrats on JDM supply :D



Thanks, congrats on your JDM stuff too! :) Fun isn't it?

[Tomisimo]

Thanks, congrats on your JDM stuff too! :) Fun isn't it?

Ouu Yeahh :P Well I just find out that My 3Gee will be the only one in Norwat to have Vigor tails and Folding mirrors :D
I'm so glad!!

[carotman]

So swapping the brackets on the timing belt mount worked?

[2ndGenGuy]

So swapping the brackets on the timing belt mount worked?

Yeah. Can't believe how much time I wasted screwing with that mount. I honestly didn't think they would interchange exactly like that.

[AccordB20A]

at least the motor sits right, will be good when you have sorted those axles:):)

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah, if I get the carbs this week, and the axles sorted out I might be able to drive it this weekend. :-o :-o

[Hazwan]

We'll call the Prelude's track width (hub to hub) = P
Teh Accord's track width = A
B20A Prelude short axle / SEi short axle length = S
2g Accord Long Axle Length = L
Midshaft Length = M

P = S + M + S
A = L + S

P > A therefore L != (does not equal) S + M

Wut?

I read that and my head exploded.

[AccordB20A]

ooooooooooooooo cool cant wait to hear it run, how long will it take u to get those filthy carbs tuned

[Ichiban]

I'm confused too. But here is what I know.

1) The SEi short axle, as far as I can tell, is the exact same length as the B20A 2g Prelude axle.

2) The midshaft was designed for a car wider than the 2g Accord.

3) You have no choice as to what axle you use on the short side. Just have to use whatever works. If you want equal length shafts, you have to use that same axle on the other side, and size down the midshaft appropriately.

We'll call the Prelude's track width (hub to hub) = P
Teh Accord's track width = A
B20A Prelude short axle / SEi short axle length = S
2g Accord Long Axle Length = L
Midshaft Length = M

P = S + M + S
A = L + S

P > A therefore L != (does not equal) S + M

I don't know if that makes any sense or not. Maybe I'll have to draw it out. The fact is basically, that in the 2g Prelude, the engine / transmission positioned differently than it will be in the 2g Accord.

This all assumes that I'm right about the fact that the 2.5g Accord shares the right side axle length with the 2g Prelude.


P = S + M + S
A = L + S

This clearly indicates that the engine is located differently in the Prelude than it is in the Accord.

After searching the Rockauto website for USDM short side axles, the part numbers differ between the 85 Se-i and the Prelude Si part. The lengths listed in the part descripton also detailed a longer short side axle for the Prelude Si.

How does the Se-i short shaft fit on the actual passenger side? Is there enough room for the suspension to cycle fully? Remember that my chassis is 7.5mm (0.295") narrower per side than yours is. I wonder if you could push inwards on the stub axle with the front end assembled and give me an idea of how much room there is until the shaft bottoms out?

Edit: I just remembered that the Rockauto site gives the short side axles as the same length between 83 and 85 Se-i cars.

Edit edit: From Rockauto website;

Prelude: Left side-24 3/8" Right side-36 1/4" 26/27 splines

Accord Se-i:..........23 7/8"...................35".............26/27 splines

Accord '83:............23 7/8"...................35".............24/25 splines

[2ndGenGuy]

I will try the SEi axles again. Problem being that neither of them wanted to fit into the transmission. I gotta count the splines on the transmission side and see.

So what does 26/27 splines mean? 26 on the inner and 27 on the outer?

The thing I wonder about your Prelude axle measurements, is that those are for an A20 Prelude. Is the B20A Prelude tranny slightly wider at the diff? Or is the B20A tranny located closer to the right side of the car due to a longer block than the A20? That could mean that they used a slightly shorter axle in the B20A Preludes than in the A20A Preludes. It wouldn't be surprising if they did that. After all, there are at least two different 2g Prelude chassis' with incompatible parts.

I'll get on the axles tonight and see what I can make happen.

[Ichiban]

It's outboard/inboard, yes, you beat me to it.


I think Rockauto website might have clusterfucked me, for an 85 non se-i it's showing a length of 35 3/8, but the short side remains the same at 23 7/8"

[2ndGenGuy]

Something else interesting. The automatic long shaft on the SEi is longer. I got shafts from an automatic. Fuck. Maybe I should just order some remans at NAPA and return mine as core. Then give it a shot. I'm sure they'll let me return them, the guy at the counter is a former 2gee owner himself and is stoked to see this project. I helped my friend pull the transmission on his Civic tonight, so I didn't get anything done on the 2gee. :(

[2oodoor]

maybe a crx axle would work if you used the accord prelude spindle side joint.? I will have to come back to this I am having trouble concentrating.
nice report 2nd Gen Guy

[carotman]

Yeah, auto and manual axles are different for sure.

[Ichiban]

Yeah, auto and manual axles are different for sure.

I actually disregarded the Auto long side axle measurements as being irrelevant. Everything I've seen indicates that the short side axles remain the same length, while the long side only varies between transmissions.

[carotman]

You are correct.

[AccordB20A]

colour codes will tell you if they are different or not

[Lil Mike]

Ooooo any updates?

[2oodoor]

colour codes will tell you if they are different or not

I was listening and TRIED a stethescope and still .. nothing
I wish I had an indoor faciltiy to work on my cars in Feburary... :sad2:

[Ichiban]

John, you need to talk to your buddy at the parts store. I just looked up the short side axle on Rockauto for an 86 Integra LS, and they give a length of 23 1/8 and the spline pattern of 26/27. If the axle has the same features as the Se-i axle (ie seal face diameters, spline lengths etc) we should just use those instead.

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man. I might just need to hit the wreckers for the teggy axle. God I've been such a lazy fuck all week. That extra 1/2 inch of play might be all I need for the other side. I'd still have to get splines cut all the way down the axle though. I'm going by NAPA tonight to pick up some other parts, so I will talk to him tonight.

[AccordB20A]

good good, whats the status on the carbs???

[2ndGenGuy]

I just got them last night! They're in great shape! Dusty from the Arizona desert and all, but the insides are sparkly clean! No gunk in the floats, the CV diaphragms are like brand new, the throttle linkage moves really nice. I just gotta unfreeze the idle adjust screw or replace it. They just happened to have the same spacing as the ports on the B20A as well! So making a manifold shouldn't be too bad...

Also, I ordered brand new SEi axles from NAPA. Since nobody has purchased axles for that car in the last 10 years, I gotta wait 5 business days for them to come in. Boo!!!

[AccordB20A]

sounds good, pics or your lieing!!!

[2oodoor]

I They just happened to have the same spacing as the ports on the B20A as well! So making a manifold shouldn't be too bad...

!!

that is Very Very Goood to hear

[AccordB20A]

soooo whats the happs on this are you making it work today???

[Ichiban]

I was thinking of setting up the intermediate shaft and machining out the splines so that they match what's on the end of the CV axle. Eliminates the need for a Prelude end on the one side, and if I make it .001-.002 bigger than the plain section of the CV end it should be a nice tight fit.

[Ichiban]

I was reading a swap thread over at Prelude Power today and I got to thinking about another solution for a problem I'm going to encounter. Alex said that the intermediate shaft won't work with a hybrid B18A/A18A transmission, so that either means that the axial location of the diff centerline has changed, or that the radial (in or out) location of the diff isn't the same. The solution I came up with is to machine a bracket that bolts to the back of the B20a block, and then will accept the intermediate shaft on the bottom, rotated 90 degrees rearward. That way the bottom face of the adapter bracket can be machined at the proper level to accomodate any axial height difference, and the bolt pattern can be drilled to properly position the axis of the shaft in the remaining lateral planes. In 3D, it should all work, the intermediate shaft bracket doesn't care what position it is held in, as long as the centerline of the bore is true to the axis of the differential.

The only problem I could see, is clearance to the rear crossmember in regards to the length of the bracket. If I remember correctly, the rear crossmember curves foreward, and space becomes constricted in this area. I'm planning to mount my alternator to the front of the head, a la B20A5, so this isn't an issue.

So Aaron, how exactly did the jackshaft not work with the B18A/A18A tranny?

[2ndGenGuy]

I like your idea. Basically reversing the bracket and using a spacer to put it wherever you need? Good call... Were there no B18As with intermediate shafts??? Hmm... Interesting for sure.

In other news... I finally got out to the garage with my new SEi axles. They fit like a fucking glove. Those old ones I had were just garbage. I did have to pop the retainer clip out to make it slide in on the long shaft. But once I did, it worked fine. The short SEi axle works much better than the 2g Prelude axle as well... I think I'm going to go back out and see if I can compress that retainer clip a bit so it slides in without having to use a hammer. :D

I could fuck around with the intermediate shaft some more, but I don't really want to. Now I just need to get my intake manifold built today, wire up the dizzy, cut the DC header downpipe off of my exhaust and clamp a flexpipe into the B20A stock header and see if I can get it to fire. Fuck yes.

[AccordB20A]

PICS

PICS

PICS

PICS
lol Fuck Yes.... ummmmm how about PICS

[2ndGenGuy]

What do you want pics of? The axles fitted in the car? Kinda looks like how the stock axles fit...

How about pics of how the crank pulley can't come off of the car without pulling the engine? That's what I found out today after putting the whole front suspension back together... ghey!!

[AccordB20A]

thats typical. Anyways pics of the intake manifold/carbs

[LX-incredible]

Yes, pictures!

Have you attacked the fuel system yet?

[Ichiban]

Guess the timing belt won't be an in car job. I wanted to make up some nice custom alloy crank pulleys for us anyways, ditch the two unused ones and lighten it up a bit.

[AccordB20A]

Guess the timing belt won't be an in car job. I wanted to make up some nice custom alloy crank pulleys for us anyways, ditch the two unused ones and lighten it up a bit.

All i want is a alternator pulley thats bigggger than the stock one cause i want to underdrive my alternator

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah turns out I was a retard. I just let the engine down about 1/2 an inch by undoing the two bolts on the side mount and it slipped right on. I'm planning on keeping the A/C and PS. But if you wanna make an alloy pulley like that, I'd buy one. :)

[2ndGenGuy]

K so here's an update finally. With PICS!!! :D :D


So I traced onto some 1/4 inch steel the outline from an old A20 manifold I just kinda uh had sitting around...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3482/3284199838_96b74d57dc.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3284199838/)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3213/3283379513_f625e19bf2.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3283379513/)

Loaded up a 6 1/2 inch cutoff wheel into my saw.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3554/3283380629_77e8e36556.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3283380629/)

Drank some beer.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3283381739_ba1490ca9a.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3283381739/)

Cut off some shit.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3658/3283382835_19238cb3a1.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3283382835/)

Found a hole saw that had just the right size for between the ports.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3332/3283383905_9b6f29bd91.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3283383905/)


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3497/3283385101_d7ee92deae.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3283385101/)


Test fitted on the head... Fits good!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3475/3284207658_65c803d30f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3284207658/)

[AccordB20A]

good work man, looks liek it took you a while to get that looking so nice.

[Rendon LX-i]

Nice....Thats pretty good using scrap metal laying around.

[2oodoor]

seems like you could have used an fi intake for the base. .I dunno about steel.. good work though

I have had to unbolt my motor several times to accomplish things, since I installed it. par for the course

[2ndGenGuy]

seems like you could have used an fi intake for the base. .I dunno about steel.. good work though

I have had to unbolt my motor several times to accomplish things, since I installed it. par for the course

Yeah, I would have gladly cut my intake up, but the problem is I don't have any way to weld aluminum. It would have taken so much less time to cut that up instead. Plus, I knew it would be lighter and all, but this will only weigh a few lbs when I'm done so I'm not all that worried about it.

[Ichiban]

,but the problem is I don't have any way to weld aluminum.

I do. If you need a flange milled up and welded on, I can arrange that! Just need a drawing.

Edit:Better yet, keep going on the steel model as a template. Then send it to me to make alloy copies, we find a 3rd party source for the carbs, and sell an all new 3geez performance kit!

You're in charge of marketing. I hate dealing with people.

[2ndGenGuy]

Hmm I like this. We could make it an A20A performance kit too for all the Carb'd guys who wanna show the EFI guys up. Buy your bolt-on bike carb kit from us! Eliminate that nasty clutter, and do it for cheaper than a 32/36 Weber. Actually, I really like it. And A B20A/EFI carb conversion kit too. With the teg distributor and a plug-n-play wiring harness. Shouldn't be that hard to do. Quick and easy power adder.

I hate dealing with people too, but I'm just good at hiding it. I guess that's what makes a good salesperson, eh? :)

[AccordB20A]

sounds complicated^^^^^ lol

[2ndGenGuy]

It would be pretty easy. For the Carb'd A20, it would be a couple plugs for the EGR and AS pipes, a custom manifold, clamps, bracket to hold the carbs to the block, a choke cable with grommet, and a set of bike carbs.

[2ndGenGuy]

:rant: %$@$^ I sat at work all day waiting to get off so that I could get back to work on this thing. Came home, drilled a hole for the port (perfectly, I might add). Then as I started in on the second hole, the hole saw grabbed, :gun: and it just barely bent the pilot bit. :madflip: Bent it enough to make the hole saw walk all around the steel plate... :rocket: I took it back to the store and exchanged it for another one, and the second hole saw caught again and bent the #$!#$ pilot bit again. GRRR. So I didn't get shit done today and wasted a couple gallons of gas going back and forth to Home Depot. :rocket: BS!!!! It barely caught too, :burn: I was hardly using any pressure. :banghead: The pilot bit is a weak POS. Shouldn't have bent that easily. Wasted my whole evening!! :chainsaw:

[AccordB20A]

Fuck!!!

[Rendon LX-i]

Man john sorry to hear....what type of bit your using as of grade...

[Lil Mike]

That sucks man, what brand of hole saw is it so i dont get one. do you have to start all over agian or is it salvagable?

[Ichiban]

:rant: %$@$^ :gun: :madflip: :rocket: #$!#$ :rocket: , :burn:. :banghead: Shouldn't have bent that easily. :chainsaw:

Bent? Since when does an HSS drill bend, and not just simply break? If the drills are soft enough to bend like that, they're a fucking joke!

Edit: If you have a drill press or milling machine, you can cut with the holesaw and not bother with the pilot. Also, once the pilot hole is drilled, you can substitute the drill for a piece of rod or something the same diameter.

[2ndGenGuy]

^^^ That's exactly what I thought about the bit. I couldn't believe it bent. I didn't have any rod or anything of the same diameter either. The one bit that would have fit from my drill bit set was the one my dad broke some time ago. Figures! :D

My work has a drill press. I'm going to use it tonight. I work at a TV station and we have a drill press. Pretty sweet!!! I gotta convince them to buy a mill or lathe or something. :D

It's "Rigid" brand. Not so Rigid. I think it might be Home Depot's in-house Chinese manufactured rubbish.

Gonna hit the local hardware store tonight and pick up a new hole saw bit!!! :D

[AccordB20A]

allways make sure parts you pay over $2 for are not made in china :) lesson learnt

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah, I paid $45 for the set.

[2ndGenGuy]

Update:

Success with the hole saw.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3548/3296951514_e63b004469.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3296951514/)

And port matched by hand with a die grinder. Doesn't look all that great up close, but it will still need welding and then more port matching when the welding is done to smooth it all out...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3619/3296125587_d9a12b192b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3296125587/)

[AccordB20A]

top work(Y) cant wait to see those carbs on there

[Lil Mike]

looks quality man keep us posted, i want to see every step :) i always thought rigid was a good company, i have some cobalt drill bits from them and they seem to be really good.

[Ichiban]

Yeah, rigid is usually top quality tooling and machines. Must of gotten a cheap version.

[2ndGenGuy]

:dunno: it was the only ones they had... Unless I wanted to buy them individually...

[Ichiban]

Done anything lately? You should huck on an A20A1 intake just to get it running for the time being, and we can work you out a sweet alloy intake for those quad carbs.

Since my bay is narrower than yours, I'm wondering how much I'm gonna have to bugger with the drivers side top mount to get it to sit in there. Also if I have clearance for the accessories.

Can't wait for my box of goodies!!

[AccordB20A]

still havent got your motor johns slacking lol

[Ichiban]

Yeah Aaron it's costing me 400 to ship from washington to here, same as it was from NZ to Washington, how gay is that?

[AccordB20A]

its because you live in canada!!!! lol

[Tomisimo]

Impressive work there.. Like it!!
Cant wait to se a vid of it running :D

[2ndGenGuy]

Thanks Tomisimo! :)

Got the runners welded onto the flange this weekend. Nothing really picture worthy yet, it still needs... um GRINDING!!! And some flowing from the A20 ports into the nice round ports that will match up to the carb.

It's really really really really really really really really hard to make perfectly round shapes with a dremel / die grinder. Only way I can figure to do it is to go rreeeeeeaaalllyyy slow at it. I've already spent a few hours just cleaning up the ports and matching them!!! Air compressor seems to want to run non-stop with this die grinder, so I have to take breaks to keep it from overheating... I can't imagine hand porting and polishing a head, especially where there is really no room for error!

I still want to try porting a head though later on. I just need a DIY flowbench to see if it does any good. I hear you can really fuck things up with a DIY P&P.

[AccordB20A]

great to hear it still working
i would just port match the flange to the head and not bother anything else in case u do much it up lol

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah I'm not touching the B20A head... Noooo way. I'm just talking about the transition in the manifold from the oval to the round shape. It takes a lot of patience. I definitely need a pair of earbuds to put inside my ear protectors.

[AccordB20A]

sooner i hear it run the bettererrer

[Ichiban]

Hey John, for straight lines, it's better to use a bigger wheel, then use the small carbide for digging into the corners, really helps prevent the tool from hogging in on the straight sections. Although my milling machines would be best!

Woah, just had a Rich Judjey moment there.

[2ndGenGuy]

Hmm yeah good idear. Guess I never thought about changing out bits, durr! WTF have I been doing. Time to look for more fun bits!

You definitely ended your comment rjudgey style! And what happened to your sig anyways?

[AccordB20A]

AANNNYYWWAAYY progress?!?!

[Civic Accord Honda]

el bumpo la jumpo

[Rendon LX-i]

^^ LMFAO...CAH your to much bro. Where did you learn that? HAAHa

[Pico]

Dam John I just went this whole thread and saw all that you have done.
Great work.
Now hurry up and finish it up so that you can bring that B20 Beast to the Bay Area so we can see it in person

[2ndGenGuy]

Well I did get some good progress this weekend. Spent tons of time on it and got a lot accomplished:

New timing belt
Water pump
Repaired rusty hole in water tube, painted tube, new o-ring
All new coolant lines
Dug broken, old spark plug boot out of the plug tube
New plugs
New wires
New cap and rotor and cleaned shit out of the dizzy
Put B20A pulley on ES alternator
Ground alternator bracket to clear shorter bolt hole on alternator and to clear brake booster
New alternator belt
Connected shift linkage
New valve cover gasket set
Dropped oil pan and cleaned gasket surfaces
Cleaned oil pan, windage tray, and pump pickup

I still need a B20A oil pan gasket though, which mykwikcoupe is fucking awesome enough to hook me up with, and I'm going to return my new one to him when I get it. Thanks man!

So yes progress is being made. I have to pick up a new tank of argon / CO2 for the welder since it ran out. That means no work on the intake manifold this weekend. :( But I still had plenty to do.

I also swapped out the A18 speed sensor into the B20A trans, but wound up breaking off the tab that bolts the sensor down. Guess it didn't get seated all the way. Woops.

So what I have left to do now is:

Finish intake manifold
Build vacuum manifold
Connect power steering pump
Install engine harness
Install radiator

[Rendon LX-i]

PICS PICS PICS....damnit john didnt we told you how it works around here. LOL JK

[AccordB20A]

and the bake the fuck out of 10 sets of tyres

[Civic Accord Honda]

sounds like your getting work done! :thumbup:



Dug broken, old spark plug boot out of the plug tube

dont you just hate that?, all 6 of the plug boots in my legend broke off inside and got stuck!! expensive wires to $80 for duralast!

[2ndGenGuy]

Sad that last update was a month ago. Damn lazy me. Been busy with work and a couple other projects. Finally got around to getting some stuff done.

I got removed the cam or crank sensor. Whatever that thing is that went in the end of the exhaust camshaft. I got a cap from an Integra of some sort that plugs the hole. While I was tightening the bolts on the cam cap, I managed to snap one right in two. Luckily it came back out of the head. So I made another trip back to the yard and pulled those two bolts to replace my broken one.

Lets see what else have I done. I ripped the engine harness out and tore it apart. I pulled out all the wires that were connected to emissions controls. It's just a very simple harness now, with wires going to the starter, alternator, temp gauge sender, and oil pressure sender. I reloomed it so it's all nice and pretty now.

I replaced my dead air horns, so I have functioning horns when the car is hauling ass down the road!!

And today I made brackets to adapt the ES2 power steering pump to the B20A. Basically, the ES2 pump bracket fits right between the B20A pump brackets (with some selective grinding). So I cut up some 1/4 inch steel and drilled holes in it. So essentially, all the pump brackets are bolted together into one mess of a bracket. It's not the prettiest thing, but it works for now. Lets me keep the stock power steering pump, for ease of replacement down the road.

You can see in this pic the stock slotted brackets up top and bottom where the B20A pump would bolt straight to. The ES pump's bolt holes are so close together, they won't bolt onto these.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3601/3451481063_38dc399785.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3451481063/)

I stuck the bracket for the ES pump, that normally bolts straight to the ES block up between the B20A brackets to see how they line up. Turns out after grinding a little away on top it fits right in.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3544/3451481723_072876f933.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3451481723/)

So here's how I bolted the brackets together. Looks simple enough, but fabbing the brackets took some time. Drilling 1/4 inch hardened steel is slow...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3370/3451482409_4e71c4c9c7.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3451482409/)

With the power steering pump bolted on!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3608/3452258012_c404b4b905.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3452258012/)

And that's it for now. Unfortunately I have to work all weekend, Saturday and Sunday or else I'd probably get a lot more done now that all my other BS is out of the way.

[AccordB20A]

nice work, that power steer pumps going to say wtf when it does 7000rpm

[Civic Accord Honda]

yay for progress

[Rendon LX-i]

nice work, that power steer pumps going to say wtf when it does 7000rpm

lol.......yes and then blow up...j/k..... nive work bro...cant wait to see it in person and feel it pull

[MessyHonda]

like ppl said yay for progress...i need to swap mine in

[AccordB20A]

too much work not enough play aye john

[LX-incredible]

Very clever with the bracket.

You also have an option of a bolt on manual rack, lucky!

[LX-incredible]

WTF, I only clicked once bioch!

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah, I really like power steering though. The manual racks have like 50 turns lock to lock. I know the power ones are like 40 turns lock to lock in comparison, but the power ones are bad enough. I go insane driving the 81 with the manual rack sometimes. I think the Miata's rack has spoiled me.

[Ichiban]

Yeah, I really like power steering though. The manual racks have like 50 turns lock to lock. I know the power ones are like 40 turns lock to lock in comparison, but the power ones are bad enough. I go insane driving the 81 with the manual rack sometimes. I think the Miata's rack has spoiled me.

Eh? My 82's rack is fairly quick, only time I really miss power steering is in parking lots sometimes, but I'm 6'3" and 190 pounds so I can manage. Oh, and how long does it take for those Eibachs to simmer down to actual ride height? I gained almost an inch of height in the rear. I set the Koni's at a quarter turn out from the slowest setting. Also, I don't know if that bellhousing is salvageable, the thing is really beat.

[2ndGenGuy]

Maybe the 2g has a much quicker rack than the 1g. It's been so long since I've driven the 2g, I don't really remember. I know that the 1g takes a bajillion turns.

You gained height in the back?! It was an immediate drop for me in my car. It didn't take any time to settle. Did you compare the stock springs to the Eibachs before you put them in the car? That blows my mind that they might be taller, I thought they were 82-85 springs. That's what ALL the spring manufacturers are listing them as. I don't think it would matter where you set the struts, they should eventually give in to the springs. Maybe those struts are just being bitches. How long has it been?

And that bellhousing won't work? Man, that is just a string of bad luck rolled together. I hadn't heard from you since Easter weekend, I was wondering if you picked up all the stuff I dropped off at your parent's place yet.

[Hazwan]

I didn't notice much difference with both manual and powered 1g rack. I guess the ratio already sucks :lol:

[2ndGenGuy]

Got the oil pan gaskets this evening. I installed one, and it went on like a champ. OEM FTW! Only had about an hour to work on the car. Tomorrow night after work, It's time to tackle the exhaust. I have the factory header and downpipe has been cut, so I'm going to cut the DC downpipe off the flexpipe, and probably clamp something temporary in.

[AccordB20A]

mean!!! good that u got the gaskets!

[Ichiban]

Got the oil pan gaskets this evening. I installed one, and it went on like a champ. OEM FTW! Only had about an hour to work on the car. Tomorrow night after work, It's time to tackle the exhaust. I have the factory header and downpipe has been cut, so I'm going to cut the DC downpipe off the flexpipe, and probably clamp something temporary in.

I'm going to try to use a variation of the A20A3 downpipe. It has the same downpipe as the B20A as far as I could tell last night. I still need to modify it for x-member clearance.



Last night I bought:

Good year equivalent of a T-249 timing belt
B20A3 water pump.

I also pulled off the power steering brackets, and found out if I flip over the alternator bracket I can bolt it to the block in place of the lower p/s mount. Good for me.

I also found a clutch and flywheel on my engine. I have no idea what it is, or if it will work with the B18A bellhousing. The clutch looks pretty typical, but the flywheel has a mega recess that I haven't seen before.

Some stupid questions:

-What if any, valve cover gasket can I get here that will work?
-What distributer cap can I use with the B20A distributer. I see the computer is set up for PGM IG, and I'd like to retain that function.

Anyways, gonna try to get that bellhousing workable this weekend.

[2ndGenGuy]

Valve cover gasket is the B20A5 one. Fits like a glove. Looks like it's the same for the Distributor cap.

Here's the thread that always takes me a half hour to actually find. I don't know why I can never remember where it is. Seems like more of an FAQ to me instead of

3geez > Mechanical > Performance > General Engine Swaps > JDM B18A / B20A Swap Tech

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29259

[carotman]

The distributor cap is JDM specific. I haven't been able to source some here. You can use the B20A5 distributor if you want.

[2oodoor]

I have one Im not using if anybody wants it, I use the D16zc dizzy.
also any parts on the intake, Im chunking all of it, but may cut the flange off for future experimenting.

[AccordB20A]

I had a feeling the dizzy caps didnt swap, i remember that i might have tried ages ago when i was a n00b cause i wanted a cap that didnt point across i wanted it to point upward.

[2ndGenGuy]

Quick update:

Cut off the DC downpipe from the A20
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3600/3472017845_594a5d46e7.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3472017845/)

Cleaned up the B20A downpipe a bit
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3319/3472828172_74419acabc.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3472828172/)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3612/3472826076_313ba22d7d.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3472826076/)

And welded some temporary pipe to the B20A downpipe and clamped it onto the exhaust on the other end. It's ghetto as FUCK but it will work until I can get a real header installed or made for it.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3351/3472022513_9f2ca46c4e.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3472022513/)


So now all that's left is:

Finish intake manifold (the big one!)
Power steering pump belt
New oil filter
Add oil, tranny lube, and power steering fluid
Attempt to start! :-o :-o

[Civic Accord Honda]

sweet!!

[Hazwan]

Can't wait!

[AccordB20A]

i also cannot wait!!

[Rendon LX-i]

hell yes

[2ndGenGuy]

Another update. I decided to put my home-made manifold on hold. I went to the junkyard and snagged an A20A1 intake manifold and got out the angle grinder.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3320/3481604311_81405fd564.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3481604311/)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3317/3482419296_237fbbb767.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3482419296/)

Cut the runners down, and clamped on some hoses.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3656/3481608551_4234c4cbc6.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3481608551/)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3379/3482420728_a7001c778c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3482420728/)

And installed on the engine:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3388/3481611621_ff08bb1641.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3481611621/)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3557/3482427588_34ab907440.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3482427588/)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3630/3481615797_2f17f83b60.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3481615797/)

Need to do some research into finding where to get jets for it. See how pretty and clean it is inside?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3374/3481610067_7486f32952.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/3481610067/)

[Ichiban]

Wow!

[LX-incredible]

Cool! Afro-american engineering at it's finest!

[Rendon LX-i]

FUck ya john...great job

[AccordB20A]

mean john

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah not bad for 2 hours of work. Hell the carbs are clamped on to the motorcycle with rubber couplers to begin with. I'm buying some silicon reduction couplers and some nicer hose clamps to make it look a bit nicer. I'm just trying to get the damn thing on the road for now.

[Hazwan]

w00t! So we can see the vids of it in action in like what? Tomorrow?

[2ndGenGuy]

Soon. We'll see how much work I get off this week.

[3GCVC]

Damn top work John, i dont find that manifold ghetto at all that is mean.

[2oodoor]

really it is very clever work, w i c k e d c o o l
The stock exhaust manifold is a good design, just heavy as fark.. like 4x lbs.
In these cars every bit of weight makes a considerable difference in runway required for lift off. lol

[Civic Accord Honda]

Dude!!! fucking awesome!!!! i wanna here that baby run!!

[2ndGenGuy]

After 4 hours of searching the Googles last night, I finally figured out what the carbs were. They're Mikuni BST38SS carbs. 38mm off of a GSXR-750. I got the diagrams and service manual for them. So I should be able to get parts 'n shit now.

[87roach]

This is gonna be crazy :D

Very nice work man, and your so close too.

[2ndGenGuy]

really it is very clever work, w i c k e d c o o l
The stock exhaust manifold is a good design, just heavy as fark.. like 4x lbs.
In these cars every bit of weight makes a considerable difference in runway required for lift off. lol

It's not a bad design, but the inside diameter at the collector is at least 1/4 inch smaller than even the collector on the DC header for the A20. But yeah, weight is the big deal. But I started with an Accord that's at least 300lbs lighter than the 3gee. :tongue:

[markmdz89hatch]

It's not a bad design, but the inside diameter at the collector is at least 1/4 inch smaller than even the collector on the DC header for the A20. But yeah, weight is the big deal. But I started with an Accord that's at least 300lbs lighter than the 3gee. :tongue:

You calling my car fat?

Sick job on this setup John. Well done. Now get the bastard running.