Whats going on...

[canadian357]

My car doesnt like the cold, apparently. In the mornings (and after I leave my car for 5+ hours) when i try to start it it starts normally, runs for 15 seconds, dies. Starts up again right away and dies right away. On the 3rd try, like clockwork, its a bitch to start but when it finally does it stays running. Also, when it's running after being turned off for a few hours it'll sit at 2000rpm in park, and i have to leave it for like 2 or 3 minutes and then tap the gas to drop it down. If i tap it before that though it'll just get stuck on a higher speed. Any ideas? I really wanna do a remote for my car, but I dont wanna bother hooking a trunk solenoid up to my throttle linkage before I get this stuff fixed ('88 Carbed LX)

[canadian357]

I forgot to add that raising engine speed to around 3000-3500rpm helps sometimes...

[codyJDM]

Check your throttle cable, it sounds like it is sticking or improperly adjusted. Make sure it is in the right bracket near the firewall as well. I had the same problem and it was just my throttle cable being too tight.

[labeledsk8r]

is it carb or fi?

[codyJDM]

is it carb or fi?

Carbed, LX. Might be carb issue. Didn't think of that. Not my expertise lol.

[labeledsk8r]

Carbed, LX. Might be carb issue. Didn't think of that. Not my expertise lol.

yeah thats what i was thinking .. the high idle at start up is normal... once warm taping the pedle will put it were it should be... the cold start were it dies is a little off.. but could be the cold idle again messing up.. look for vac leaks.. also check your cold idle choke out make sure its working properly

[canadian357]

Nooby question, i know... but how do I check for vacuum leaks?

[88Accord-DX]

Nooby question, i know... but how do I check for vacuum leaks?
Get some carb cleaner & spray around the suspected lines, when you find the leak (if there is one) there should be a change in the idle RPM's.

Back to the first question on you carb problems, that is similar to how the carbs act in cold weather. They idle up a little high until warm, then you have to tap on the accelerator to get the idle back down. Anyhow, you'll get your fair share of problems out of that carb in time. It might be wise to invest in 32/36 weber some day.

[canadian357]

Do I have to check every vacuum line? Or is there only a few that could be causing this?

[88Accord-DX]

It sounds like you don't have the float level adjusted right or your losing some gas in the float bowl after it sits for a little while. Can also try pumping the accelerator about 3 times before you start it up.

[canadian357]

I always pump the accelerator before i start it. That should compensate for losing gas in the float bowl, shouldn't it?

[steveko]

No

[greentee76]

I would try turning the key to the run postion for 15-20 seconds before trying to start it to give the pump a chance to prime.
My 2 cents...

PS. I had similar issues with the OEM carb where it wouldn't want to come off of high idle when I tapped the accelerator and would just raise RPMs more. I never did figure it out before I opted for the Weber.

[-$MOKIN-]

OH i hated my LX in the winter. Damn carb. Then if you didnt wait for it to warm up and threw it in gear it would jerk damn thing. it would idle forever high if you didnt pedal it. One reason why i moved on to a LXI.

[canadian357]

I wonder if I can find someone stupid enough to switch my LX for their LXI or something... maybe if they had rust... I actually enjoy rust repairs for some seriously f***ed up reason... by the way, what did the weber run you guys? and if i pick one up, should I opt for 32/36 or 38?