diy rod bearing change

[1987AccordLx-i]

ok im really tight on money so im going to change the rod bearings myself.. first off i need help on how to do it.. i know how to take apart the bottom end but i heard ill have to remove the head and pull the pistons out for the top end.. is this true?

[Josh89accord]

Nope, I had to redo mine. Just pull the oil pan off, undo the brackets for the rod, and the rod bearings on the journals. You have to push up the piston so the crank has to be at its lowest point. Just put some oil honey (stp oil treatment) on the rod bearings, reinstall on the journals and tighten the bolts to 23 ft. lb.

[1987AccordLx-i]

Nope, I had to redo mine. Just pull the oil pan off, undo the brackets for the rod, and the rod bearings on the journals. You have to push up the piston so the crank has to be at its lowest point. Just put some oil honey (stp oil treatment) on the rod bearings, reinstall on the journals and tighten the bolts to 23 ft. lb.

wow dude.. you saved me from an asshole mechanic shop.. id rather do it myself.. but when i put the new bearings in do i have to put oil on the backside of the bearing? or just put it in like that but oil up the crank side and back?

[Oldblueaccord]

Oil the part of the bearing that touches the crank. Gl with it rednecks around the globe have been doing this for years.




wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

Oil the part of the bearing that touches the crank. Gl with it rednecks around the globe have been doing this for years.




wp

sweet man thanks.. anything i should look out for?

[Oldblueaccord]

Hondas use differant size bearings sometimes journal to journal so you must pay attention to this. I cant remember where it is but there should be a place stamped on the block and the bearings are color coded. There should be a pretty good explanation in the manuals.

Really if you have a bad one you should plastic guage it with a new bearing and check that the tolerance is in spec. If the journal is worn some you may need a differant size bearing. I am not sure what is available on our cars.


wp

[Oldblueaccord]

I did a little searching for some pics for you.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=405

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=715490

heres a chart for the B series but it explains a little more how there bearings work.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showarticle.asp?ArticleID=409



wp

[Josh89accord]

wow dude.. you saved me from an asshole mechanic shop.. id rather do it myself.. but when i put the new bearings in do i have to put oil on the backside of the bearing? or just put it in like that but oil up the crank side and back?

No problem dude, glad to help.

[1987AccordLx-i]

I did a little searching for some pics for you.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=405

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=715490

heres a chart for the B series but it explains a little more how there bearings work.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showarticle.asp?ArticleID=409



wp



the team-integra one.. i didnt really get the plastigauge thing.. how does this work? it was informational but idk what plastigauge is...

[Oldblueaccord]

Prolly better to google search it but coming from me. Its a strip of putty you put between the bearing and the journel side then torque to spec. It "squishes" down you take it a part and measure its(the plasticguage strip) size on the chart and that tells you the clearance(space) between the bearing and the journal. It gives you a measurement. If your measurement is not with in the specs from Honda you well need a differance bearing size to make up the differance.


wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

Prolly better to google search it but coming from me. Its a strip of putty you put between the bearing and the journel side then torque to spec. It "squishes" down you take it a part and measure its(the plasticguage strip) size on the chart and that tells you the clearance(space) between the bearing and the journal. It gives you a measurement. If your measurement is not with in the specs from Honda you well need a differance bearing size to make up the differance.


wp

what are the chances that ill need a bigger bearing size?

[Ichiban]

Chances are if you need to change out rod bearings (you hear hammering noises on decel or at idle) then the excessive clearance has beat the rod journal on the crank straight to hell. The crank needs to come out for a regrind or replacement, because it's guaranteed to no longer be within a functional dimension. Replacing bearings only, and without proper measurements, will only waste a set of bearings.

The real choice is a full rebuild.

[1987AccordLx-i]

Chances are if you need to change out rod bearings (you hear hammering noises on decel or at idle) then the excessive clearance has beat the rod journal on the crank straight to hell. The crank needs to come out for a regrind or replacement, because it's guaranteed to no longer be within a functional dimension. Replacing bearings only, and without proper measurements, will only waste a set of bearings.

The real choice is a full rebuild.

well yeah its knocking.. but not alot.. im thinking i can still save this crank.. right now i cant afford anything.. i lost my job so its really hard on me.. i just want it to last me a few more months then ill rebuild my a20 FI then throw it back in.. this temporary a18a1 is doing the job but i need it to go for just a little while longer

EDIT: it only knocks when its hot and when i rev it up to about 2500 or 3k

[Dr_Snooz]

Have you experimented with the various oil additives out there? I'd start with a thicker oil and then move on to Lucas, STP oil treatment or Motor Honey. It might be enough to get you through the crunch without having to buy new bearings and do a lot of work that won't bear a lot of fruit.

Just a thought.

[1987AccordLx-i]

Have you experimented with the various oil additives out there? I'd start with a thicker oil and then move on to Lucas, STP oil treatment or Motor Honey. It might be enough to get you through the crunch without having to buy new bearings and do a lot of work that won't bear a lot of fruit.

Just a thought.

i have put thicker oil but the result was the same.. still knocks either way.. ill get bearings for it and just let it run it self out again.. hopefully by then ill have a decent job to where i can fully rebuild my a20a3 and throw it back in the 3g

[Oldblueaccord]

Yeah slap them in there it will most likely buy you some time anyway. If your oil pressure is low I would look into doing the mains too at least the lowers while your on your back in there.


wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

Yeah slap them in there it will most likely buy you some time anyway. If your oil pressure is low I would look into doing the mains too at least the lowers while your on your back in there.


wp

how would that effect the oil pressure?

but i dont reallly like this 1.8 cuz when i get parts for it i have to get parts to an "84 prelude" cuz thats the block i have in mine at the moment.. so if i could make it last a few more months that would be awesome.. but for my a20a3.. ill try to get new everything.. but honda parts :eek5: yeah its expensive but hopefully ill port/polish the head and MABE get a mild cam if i can find it.. other then that i have no clue what else to do.. besides ignition upgrade

[Oldblueaccord]

More bearing clearance you have less oil pressure.



wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

More bearing clearance you have less oil pressure.



wp

wow dude thats fucken smart.. i never would have thought of that... makes sense now.. my oil light stays on for like a second after i start it..


ok so for the a18a1 how would the color code be on the rods? ive never done this before and i want to do it right the first time

[rfiks]

i have put thicker oil but the result was the same.. still knocks either way.. ill get bearings for it and just let it run it self out again.. hopefully by then ill have a decent job to where i can fully rebuild my a20a3 and throw it back in the 3g
check this site :flash: http://theoldone.com/articles/ :flash:these guys know their shit! check-it out!

[Oldblueaccord]

wow dude thats fucken smart.. i never would have thought of that... makes sense now.. my oil light stays on for like a second after i start it..


ok so for the a18a1 how would the color code be on the rods? ive never done this before and i want to do it right the first time


Each motor has there own set really. Short reason is its better built motor and the bearings are matched to each journal. On a Chevy 350 its the same bearing no matter how it fits.

Ill go eat at the cracker barrel and find a link.


wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

Each motor has there own set really. Short reason is its better built motor and the bearings are matched to each journal. On a Chevy 350 its the same bearing no matter how it fits.

Ill go eat at the cracker barrel and find a link.


wp

ok i have an A18A1 in my car.. thats the one that needs the rod bearings.. so to make it short.. will i get away with just standard autozone bearings? and does it matter where i put them on the journals? or do i have to match up the bearing to a specific journal?

[1987AccordLx-i]

off topic problem.. my front engine mount bracket just busted on me so the whole motor is jumping when i give it gas.. anyone got an exhaust side engine mount that is willing to give it up? i dont have a job and i really need my car to find work.. and i dont want my motor to be flopping around.. it scares me.. if anyone is willing to give it up and your in the alhambra/la area ill even pick it up.. i really need this mount.. stupid auto shop didnt put in all the bolts for it and the torque snapped it clear off

[Oldblueaccord]

You can use a chain and some bolts in a pinch just to hold the engine down.

Reread those links about the bearings. What it looks like is the rods are stamped with a mark that tells you what size bearing goes on what journal.


wp

[Dr_Snooz]

I'm not sure how tight things are, but you should be able to pick up something from the junkyard for less than $10. You'd also be able to replace any bolts that got broken.

If that's too much, I'm happy to swing by the junkyard for you, but you'd have to wait until next weekend. I can't get there with any daylight during the week. PM me if interested.

I'd also hold off on that bearing job until you get the mount squared away. It's not likely, but it might be the noise you've been hearing. At least it might just make it bearable until things turn up for you. Honestly, you can drive on that engine for a long time like that. I drove for hundreds of miles with a bad bearing, burned valve and bad rings. That was an A20, but the A18 is probably not too different. Try limping it if you can. Put some motor honey in there and roll on. You don't need something to go wrong while you're changing bearings and end up spending a lot of money that you don't have right now.

If you do the bearings, go with the cheapest you can get. It's not going to matter if this is a disposable engine, right? You just need to get by for now.

Sorry for the long post.

[1987AccordLx-i]

I'm not sure how tight things are, but you should be able to pick up something from the junkyard for less than $10. You'd also be able to replace any bolts that got broken.

If that's too much, I'm happy to swing by the junkyard for you, but you'd have to wait until next weekend. I can't get there with any daylight during the week. PM me if interested.

I'd also hold off on that bearing job until you get the mount squared away. It's not likely, but it might be the noise you've been hearing. At least it might just make it bearable until things turn up for you. Honestly, you can drive on that engine for a long time like that. I drove for hundreds of miles with a bad bearing, burned valve and bad rings. That was an A20, but the A18 is probably not too different. Try limping it if you can. Put some motor honey in there and roll on. You don't need something to go wrong while you're changing bearings and end up spending a lot of money that you don't have right now.

If you do the bearings, go with the cheapest you can get. It's not going to matter if this is a disposable engine, right? You just need to get by for now.

Sorry for the long post.

dr.. you are amazing.. literally.. but you dont have to get the mount for me.. ill see if i can get some money somewhere haha.. thanks for the info doc

[1987AccordLx-i]

great news guys.. i got the bearings today.. so im going to let my car cool off over night and get to fixing it tomorrow.. i saw the stamps on the journals on my spare block sitting in my garage.. its 1.2.3.4 huh? thats what i saw.. and the 1 and 2nd journals have an F on it is this what im looking for?

[Oldblueaccord]

Not really sure. Keep doing your research I never actaully done bearings on any Honda motors and I know less about the A18. The chart with the manual is the best bet.


wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

will the oil pan from the a20a3 fit on the a18a1? i noticed a big dent from where my cv blew out and i dont wanna run it like that

[cygnus x-1]

Yes, the oil pans are compatible if not identical.

If you want you can download a PDF Prelude manual from here:

http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/SvcMan/Full%20Manual.pdf

I'll warn you now it's nearly 90MB so it will take awhile. Pages 80-81 describe the bearing setup. The procedure is the same for the A18 and A20.


Incidentally, when I rebuilt my engine I used Toga HP bearings, which are a high performance tri-metal bearing (supposedly). Anyway they only come in one size so when I assembled the crank and rods I checked the clearances with plastigage. They all came out well within the normal spec. So I think as long as your crank isn't massively worn you'll be fine.


C|

[1987AccordLx-i]

today is the worst dam day ever.. i changed the rod bearings and it still knocks like hell.. what can it be?? this is really ticking me off


EDIT: talked to a mechanic friend this morning and he suspects it to be the mains.. what do you guys think?

[Oldblueaccord]

Yes, the oil pans are compatible if not identical.

If you want you can download a PDF Prelude manual from here:

http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/SvcMan/Full%20Manual.pdf

I'll warn you now it's nearly 90MB so it will take awhile. Pages 80-81 describe the bearing setup. The procedure is the same for the A18 and A20.


Incidentally, when I rebuilt my engine I used Toga HP bearings, which are a high performance tri-metal bearing (supposedly). Anyway they only come in one size so when I assembled the crank and rods I checked the clearances with plastigage. They all came out well within the normal spec. So I think as long as your crank isn't massively worn you'll be fine.


C|

I was wondering about the togas..


1987AccordLx-i


How bad did the bearings you take out look? and what did the rods journels look like ?


wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

I was wondering about the togas..


1987AccordLx-i


How bad did the bearings you take out look? and what did the rods journels look like ?


wp

well.. the bearings were worn pretty good.. but the crank had virtually no signs of wear or anything of that sort.. i checked it and felt for grooves, crank was good.. but would you think its the mains?

[Dr_Snooz]

today is the worst dam day ever.. i changed the rod bearings and it still knocks like hell.. what can it be?? this is really ticking me off


EDIT: talked to a mechanic friend this morning and he suspects it to be the mains.. what do you guys think?

It could be mains. It could be wrist pins. It could be piston slap. You won't know for sure until you pull it apart.

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but this has all the hallmarks of something that's going to end badly. You're trying to fiddle and fart away a very big repair. The very best you can hope for is to spend a chunk of money and a lot of time and still have an engine that needs to be replaced. That doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Unless the knocking is so loud that potential employers can hear it when you drive up, your time would be better spent looking for work.

[1987AccordLx-i]

It could be mains. It could be wrist pins. It could be piston slap. You won't know for sure until you pull it apart.

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but this has all the hallmarks of something that's going to end badly. You're trying to fiddle and fart away a very big repair. The very best you can hope for is to spend a chunk of money and a lot of time and still have an engine that needs to be replaced. That doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Unless the knocking is so loud that potential employers can hear it when you drive up, your time would be better spent looking for work.

hmm my mechanic friend told me that piston slap is out of the question but mains or wrist pins might be an option.. will mains from my a20a3 fit the a18a1? i have my a20 block in my garage and im willing to get the mains out of that one to prolong the motor just a little bit longer.. but if i have to ill run the motor like this til i get it fixed

[cygnus x-1]

The A18 and A20 use the same bearings, so yes you can swap them.

If you have the time I suppose it might be worthwhile to try the mains, but I wouldn't hold my breath that that's the problem. If it is the wrist pins though there won't be much you can do anyway without more serious work. So if swapping the mains doesn't fix it I would just put in 20W50 oil, load it up with thickeners, and run it until it dies.

C|

[1987AccordLx-i]

The A18 and A20 use the same bearings, so yes you can swap them.

If you have the time I suppose it might be worthwhile to try the mains, but I wouldn't hold my breath that that's the problem. If it is the wrist pins though there won't be much you can do anyway without more serious work. So if swapping the mains doesn't fix it I would just put in 20W50 oil, load it up with thickeners, and run it until it dies.

C|

wow.. so everything is interchangeable right? same motor just different cc's

and i have the pistons to my a20 also.. so it worst comes to worst i can use the wrist pins an rods from the a20a3 on the a18 piston.. is that plausible? or are the wrist pins different for the two?

[cygnus x-1]

wow.. so everything is interchangeable right? same motor just different cc's

and i have the pistons to my a20 also.. so it worst comes to worst i can use the wrist pins an rods from the a20a3 on the a18 piston.. is that plausible? or are the wrist pins different for the two?


The A20 is really just an A18 with a larger bore and a different head. But many of the head parts are interchangeable too. So yeah, you could use the A20 rods and pins as well. If the problem is in the pin area though it's most likely the piston itself is worn, because it's aluminum and the pins are steel. The only way you'll know is to pull the pistons out. It might suck to get them back in if you don't have ring compressor though.

C|

[1987AccordLx-i]

The A20 is really just an A18 with a larger bore and a different head. But many of the head parts are interchangeable too. So yeah, you could use the A20 rods and pins as well. If the problem is in the pin area though it's most likely the piston itself is worn, because it's aluminum and the pins are steel. The only way you'll know is to pull the pistons out. It might suck to get them back in if you don't have ring compressor though.

C|

ill probably just reuse my rods.. just get a set of pistons from the scrap yard when i get some money.. but yeah the knocking is betting louder and it doesnt sound like its rod bearings or mains.. it sounds like its where the head is at but its too much to be piston slap

[Dr_Snooz]

Don't suppose you could get a video of the noise could you?

[cygnus x-1]

Are you sure it's not a valve problem then? Pop the valve cover off and take a look.

C|

[1987AccordLx-i]

well dr.. i could try to get a vid up soon.. i just gotta find my camera.. and Cl i highly doubt its valves.. its too much of a clunk noise to be valves

[1987AccordLx-i]

bad news guys... motor went out before i could get the vid up... sounds like one of the pistons shattered inside the block.. i have no options but to sell my 3g.. its sad to say but i just cant afford to keep up with the fucken bug in the motor.. so im selling my 3g.. ill ask for 500 for it as is.. let me know if anyones interested

[Oldblueaccord]

Take the head off and see what happened for us it can go into the wiki.

Sorry it turned out bad.


wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

Take the head off and see what happened for us it can go into the wiki.

Sorry it turned out bad.


wp

well she still runs but it feels like shes running on 3 cylinders.. and theres a nonstop rattling.. but i want to keep it together and see if i can get more for it.. i would take the head off and see what caused the mayhem but i want to see if anyone would take it like that.. im positive that all it needs is internals.. i found a vid of a d16 blown up on youtube and mine sounds louder then this guys.. heres the vid to give you guys a rough description on how its running as of now.. my cam is no where to be found so i cant put a vid up =/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-tNS7hKwuM&feature=related

[Oldblueaccord]

Best you could do is disable that cylinder. Either pull the rod and piston out the bottom if possible or out the top and leave it running on 3. The condition of the plug will tell which is bad.


wp

[1987AccordLx-i]

Best you could do is disable that cylinder. Either pull the rod and piston out the bottom if possible or out the top and leave it running on 3. The condition of the plug will tell which is bad.


wp

of course! the plug test! genius! ill try that sometime today.. its raining cats and dogs here and theres no room for shelter...

but did you get a chance go check out the vid? its not my car but mine sounds way louder then that one

[rfiks]

off topic problem.. my front engine mount bracket just busted on me so the whole motor is jumping when i give it gas.. anyone got an exhaust side engine mount that is willing to give it up? i dont have a job and i really need my car to find work.. and i dont want my motor to be flopping around.. it scares me.. if anyone is willing to give it up and your in the alhambra/la area ill even pick it up.. i really need this mount.. stupid auto shop didnt put in all the bolts for it and the torque snapped it clear off
1/2 off everything sale at pick-a-part on jan 1st!! www.pickapartauto.com

[1987AccordLx-i]

1/2 off everything sale at pick-a-part on jan 1st!! www.pickapartauto.com

pick a part? dude your in cali?

[1987AccordLx-i]

ok guys.. took the head off the block.. looks like the crank is broken b/t number 2 and 3 cylinders.. ill have the vid up in a lil while.. gotta upload it.. but if you guys have myspace.. look me up and ill have a folder with the pictures i took of the teardown

[1987AccordLx-i]

and here it is!! ignore the end.. my friend thought it would be funny tho throw gloves at me haha.. but what would make the pistons move like that? just to know before i attack the bottom end

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V936Iwx18sM

[Demon1024]

i dont think it would run much at all with the crank broken
never heard of one of these motors breaking a crank there supposed to be pretty tuff

[1987AccordLx-i]

i dont think it would run much at all with the crank broken
never heard of one of these motors breaking a crank there supposed to be pretty tuff

she barely had enough power to make it up the driveway.. but she made a jackhammer look like a bitch haha

[1987AccordLx-i]

quick question... my friends 96 lude h22a has a chocking sensation when you push it to a quarter throttle... what can this be? does his car have the ECT sensor? if so will ours fit it? this has to be done with the quickness before he leaves today so please let me know.. thanks guys

[Hauntd ca3]

re the 3g, that duz look like a broken crank to me.
stick a big socket on the crank pulley bolt and see if just those 2 cylinders turn and not the other two
re the lude, my h22a cd6 acord is a bit slow to respod to light throttle applications to but picks up better past about 2250-2500 rpm.
think this is due to the vtec being 3 stage in these motors and they only run on tiny wee cam lobes at low revs

[1987AccordLx-i]

re the 3g, that duz look like a broken crank to me.
stick a big socket on the crank pulley bolt and see if just those 2 cylinders turn and not the other two
re the lude, my h22a cd6 acord is a bit slow to respod to light throttle applications to but picks up better past about 2250-2500 rpm.
think this is due to the vtec being 3 stage in these motors and they only run on tiny wee cam lobes at low revs

RE:3g.... all 4 pistons crank but it seems like its still connected some how.. one of these days im going to attack the bottom end and rip everything out

RE:lude.... what would you reccomend for the lude?

[Ichiban]

I'd say she broke. I recently saw a post on Preludepower where a guy had the same problem as you, engine still ran, but tons of noise. Turns out the crank had broken, but was still making contact enough between the two pieces to run.

[Hauntd ca3]

idk what i'd do bout the lude.
would try the usual fuel and airfilter and a set of sparkplugs and get the usual poor running suspects out the way first.and also check the leads for resistance.
no more than 8k ohms per foot otherwise you start getting funny little misfires and a weaker spark
if those fail check and se if its throwin any codes

[1987AccordLx-i]

i see.. well im almost done tearing apart the block.. i know its the crank

[1987AccordLx-i]

well everything checks out on the lude.. he just did a tune up on it and it still has a choking sensation.. feels like its running out of fuel.. no ecu codes or anything.. my last guess is a sensor of some sort

[Dr_Snooz]

We need pics of the crank.

[1987AccordLx-i]

We need pics of the crank.

well doc.. ill try to get them up asap.. my bros tired of seeing my 3g in the garage so he wants me to junk it..

i hate to bend the forum rules but i have a week til i junk my 3g.. so im taking off all the good parts to sell.. name something and ill let it go dirt cheap.. i really want to make some money off of it before i let her go.. so if you guys want something please let me know.. everything is good except the block obviously.. heads good.. intake mani is good.. interior is good..

[Civic Accord Honda]

well doc.. ill try to get them up asap.. my bros tired of seeing my 3g in the garage so he wants me to junk it..

i hate to bend the forum rules but i have a week til i junk my 3g.. so im taking off all the good parts to sell.. name something and ill let it go dirt cheap.. i really want to make some money off of it before i let her go.. so if you guys want something please let me know.. everything is good except the block obviously.. heads good.. intake mani is good.. interior is good..
shit if only u were closer id buy it i need another 3g and have a mint complete block and head sitting in my shed :(

[A18A]

i know theres something i want from a usdm car but i cant remember what. i'll probably remember what it is after you get rid of it :(

[1987AccordLx-i]

i know theres something i want from a usdm car but i cant remember what. i'll probably remember what it is after you get rid of it :(

well as far as engine goes.. im keeping all parts that worked..
trans, black box, header, intake mani, head, engine wiring, fuse box, throttle body, dizzy.. but interior wise.. thats staying til someone decides to pick something out


shit if only u were closer id buy it i need another 3g and have a mint complete block and head sitting in my shed :(

at this point im willing to let my 3g go for cheap.. so im pretty much lowering the price of the whole car to 100-200 bucks just because i dont want to junk her.. i want her to have a good home.. my 3g only had a left brake caliper problem where it would stick but that was repairable (no money) and it would pull to the left a little but other then that she was good to me

EDIT: i have a spare A20A3 block in my garage.. not sure what it needs but you can have it

[Civic Accord Honda]

well as far as engine goes.. im keeping all parts that worked..
trans, black box, header, intake mani, head, engine wiring, fuse box, throttle body, dizzy.. but interior wise.. thats staying til someone decides to pick something out



at this point im willing to let my 3g go for cheap.. so im pretty much lowering the price of the whole car to 100-200 bucks just because i dont want to junk her.. i want her to have a good home.. my 3g only had a left brake caliper problem where it would stick but that was repairable (no money) and it would pull to the left a little but other then that she was good to me

EDIT: i have a spare A20A3 block in my garage.. not sure what it needs but you can have it damn i wish towing was not so damn much..

[1987AccordLx-i]

damn i wish towing was not so damn much..

yeah.. it would be a hell of a bill to get over there..

[1987AccordLx-i]

guys... turns out im not going to sell my 3g.. im getting money next month to rebuild my original a20 block.. so as of now im NOT selling my 3g.. so within the next few weeks i will be posting about the rebuild..

to those who wanted my 3g.. sorry about this..

blake you too man.. sorry it didnt work.. i really wanted to sell it to you

[Civic Accord Honda]

guys... turns out im not going to sell my 3g.. im getting money next month to rebuild my original a20 block.. so as of now im NOT selling my 3g.. so within the next few weeks i will be posting about the rebuild..

to those who wanted my 3g.. sorry about this..

blake you too man.. sorry it didnt work.. i really wanted to sell it to you
its cool im glad to see your keeping it and rebuilding it! should be fast with a fresh engine

you doing just a stock rebuild or upgrading?

[1987AccordLx-i]

its cool im glad to see your keeping it and rebuilding it! should be fast with a fresh engine

you doing just a stock rebuild or upgrading?

im putting everyinternal stock but cleaned to the max..

i know it will be faster then the a18 i had in it so im stoked for that

[Dr_Snooz]

Congrats man! We still want pics of the crank though.

[1987AccordLx-i]

Congrats man! We still want pics of the crank though.

almost there doc.. idk if i can remove the crank while its still connected to the trans... is this possible w/o taking out the trans?.. if so then i can have it out soon after new years.. if not then ill have to wait til i get a hoist =/

quick question... how often do you have to replace the rear main seal? the one on my original a20a3 never leaked on me and it seems to be in good shape.. should i still replace it?

[1987AccordLx-i]

HERE IT IS DOC!! i know you've been waiting for this and i finally got it.. completely snapped the crank and chipped the #1 piston

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p262/TOKYOBEAR8990/Image011.jpg


http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p262/TOKYOBEAR8990/Image012.jpg

[Dr_Snooz]

Damn dude. That's proper! Nice work!

[1987AccordLx-i]

Damn dude. That's proper! Nice work!

haha thanks.. now that ive rebuilt my a20a3.. i shouldnt have much problems.. now i can focus on the body.. but i just need to wire up the block and then i can turn the key and see if she goes or blows

[A18A]

yay for keeping it :)

[thegreatdane]

It looks like the main jounals are completely trashed, which would explain why the crank broke. That must have knocked like crazy!

[1987AccordLx-i]

yup.. got the rebuilt a20a3 in already.. got it in last night so now all i gotta do is just wire it up and im done

[1987AccordLx-i]

SHE FIRED GUYS!! man that was a great sound to hear.. runs a little rough but i need to get it timed and make sure everythings going ok.. but for some reason when i press the gas she dies... why is that?

[1987AccordLx-i]

found out why she runs bad.. the piston rings are gone so i have to change them.. got a fresh set and im going to install them tomorrow morning.. hopefully have her running by sundown

[1987AccordLx-i]

rebuild was a success guys! runs like never before

[A18A]

thats some good news!!

[redaztec]

Awesome, glad to hear it!

[1987AccordLx-i]

my 3g suffered a tragic end... she was stolen some time last night and they found her today.. totalled..:(

[Dr_Snooz]

Ugh. Sorry dude.

[redaztec]

Wow, sorry to hear that.

[MessyHonda]

wow that blows...fucking carjackers

[A18A]

holy fucking shit bad luck :'(

[1987AccordLx-i]

yeah.. im going to save up for an EF hatch and fix that up for a while.. then ill get me another 3g..

[MessyHonda]

get an alarm this time

[1987AccordLx-i]

get an alarm this time

that for sure... and a club

[xxxfrankensteinxxx]

shotgun is more effective with winchester military grade buckshot, each is the size of a 38 bullet :]. remember we dont take kindly to tresspassing car theifs

[1987AccordLx-i]

shotgun is more effective with winchester military grade buckshot, each is the size of a 38 bullet :]. remember we dont take kindly to tresspassing car theifs

yeah thats true man.. well.. hopefully if things go well ill get me another 3g within the next few months.. i just gotta wait for surgery to go through.. messed up my left foot so i gotta get it fixed.. so my posts will take time to come up as i will be off the computer.. so wish me luck guys:wave:

[Dr_Snooz]

Wow. When it rains it pours. Good luck.

[1987AccordLx-i]

Wow. When it rains it pours. Good luck.

well just got word that ill be getting a call from the hospital sometime this week informing me of the date to go in.. so til then im on here..

also.. good news for me!

a friend just got a mint condition 89 SE-I as a gift and he dont like it.. so he wants to sell it ^_^ so im going to try my hardest and get it.. he already told me i get first dibbs since i love 3g's so much but he can change his mind unexpectedly haha.. ill try to get pics of it up just give me some time

[MessyHonda]

good luck on the se-i

[1987AccordLx-i]

update:

well guys.. surgery went well.. sucks because i cant move around much but im getting better.. one of the guys from 3geez offered to sell me his 89 2 door so im going to jump on that offer as soon as im able to walk again.. as far as my 3g goes.. shes probably turned into soda cans by now =/ she will be missed.. idk if i put pics of how the car looked after but ill see if i can upload some soon

[Civic Accord Honda]

good luck on your next 3g! get an alarm for sure!

[1987AccordLx-i]

good luck on your next 3g! get an alarm for sure!

yea man.. for sure this time ill be protected with a 12 gauge haha

[Rendon LX-i]

Oh man wtf...sorry to hear. get well bro..good luck on your next 3gee

[1987AccordLx-i]

Oh man wtf...sorry to hear. get well bro..good luck on your next 3gee

thanks bro.. btw.. ive been keeping track of your 3g on youtube.. that things an animal now! good work man

[Rendon LX-i]

LOL thanks...i just dont understand how your crank broke...there pretty much bullet proof even when i was doing the build the crank was in very good shape. idk but. im pushing her 10psi and its holding fine. matter of fact after boosting what 5 months now or so. i let her idle and she sounds like a kitten lol...so clean still. im like damn i buildt her well then haha. Thanks again..I know that youll get the 89 and make her even better then you old one bro

[1987AccordLx-i]

LOL thanks...i just dont understand how your crank broke...there pretty much bullet proof even when i was doing the build the crank was in very good shape. idk but. im pushing her 10psi and its holding fine. matter of fact after boosting what 5 months now or so. i let her idle and she sounds like a kitten lol...so clean still. im like damn i buildt her well then haha. Thanks again..I know that youll get the 89 and make her even better then you old one bro

well i got the motor like that and i thought the rod bearings were shot.. i changed the bearings and it still did the same thing.. so i was like :help:.. so then i was like "ill just run it til she blows then get another block" then a few months after.. crank snapped.. so my guess would be that the previous owner of that particular engine was constantly thrashing it.. thanks man i hope i get that 89 also.. id be happy again