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87DXHatch
09-26-2002, 05:40 PM
(It's been a while since I posted... we only had 800 members last time :D)

I am finally breaking down and taking her to a dealership. I just can't take the problems anymore and I want it fixed right, rip off or not.

Can someone give me a rough estimate on how much it is going to cost me? I have to get the driver's side CV joint (or axle... not sure which needs to be, but I know the CV joint is very bad) replaced and I need to get my carb fixed.

I don't really know what's wrong with my carb... I am almost 100% sure there is a vacuum leak somewhere, but the choke might be bad too.

My carb problems (I am SURE some of you remember my countless posts on them) have been intensifying as of late and I just can't take it anymore; it makes me too furious when I drive my car to fight the carb.

The CV joint is really starting to go from a click to more of a rythmic grind that is starting to sound pretty gruesome... anyone know what can happen if I don't get it replaced soon?

But the main question is: Will these two repairs cost me more than $300 or $400? I really really hope not, but if it must be, it must be.

1989 DX R
09-26-2002, 05:42 PM
Probably about 1000$ for all that.

YK86
09-26-2002, 07:25 PM
The carb diagnosing can easily get up to $500 and more since it MAY take a long time to actually find the root of the problem. It depends on how honest they are and how quickly they find it. As for the axle, I would think roughly $200 including labour.

87DXHatch
09-26-2002, 07:27 PM
$1000... are you kidding me...

It would take THAT long to find a vacuum leak??? This makes me rethink things...

87DXHatch
09-26-2002, 08:52 PM
That really leaves me in a bind, if it is going to be that much... how hard are vacuum leaks to find, and how hard are chokes to replace??? I really need my car back to running right (I actually think it hasn't ever ran right since I got it 5 months ago, it's just gotten wayyyyy worse now)...

87DXHatch
09-27-2002, 09:58 AM
I got some estimates today... the closest dealer I called (about 50 miles away) quoted me at around $315 to fix the driver's CV joint... ummm, no.

The second place I called quoted me at $190 for a remanufactured axle and installation. I setup an appointment with them.

I asked him about my carb problems and he said that it is often like the lower gasket... or some gasket thing, I am not sure what exactly he called it. He said they could check it out when I come... I have delt with these people before and they really are quite nice.

Now I just need some of you to wish me luck... driving home from school today, I could feel it and hear it grind and vibrate more than it ever has... I really really hope I can make it to the dealership like it is... I will just have to drive like 40-50 mph ... :D

POS carb
09-30-2002, 04:17 PM
buy a haynes manual, it's easy to change the axle. As for the carb I'd check for vacuum leaks first and if it's not that just get a carb from the wreckers cuz a rebuild is going to run you a couple hundred

ELM'sLX+CHL'sDX
09-30-2002, 05:06 PM
David:

Are you mad or simply insane? You're going to pay a fortune at the dealership for two items that can be replaced rather easily and more economically at any independent shop.

1. Axle: $250 Honda, 1.0 Hour Labor $100
Okay, you hear a grinding noise when making a turn. That means that the bearings in your in your CV joints are worn. You can buy an aftermarket axle, many which have a lifetime warranty versus a 1 year warranty from Honda, for around $60-$100. Installation should be around $70.00-$100.00. Replacement of an axle by a competent tech should take 30-45 minutes. I've seen these things being installed in 20 minutes!!!!!

2. Carburetor $800 Honda 3.5 Hours Labor
You have a vacuum leak from your carburetor. There are only two gaskets that can be replaced on a carburetor. They are the gaskets that go around the EFE screen, which is in between the intake manifold and the carburetor itself. If the leak is coming from anywhere else, you will have to buy a new carburetor. Don't fuck around with rebuild kits, they're not worth it and if you don't do it right, your carburetor will be even more F.U.

Now the MSRP for an 89 accord carburetor is around $800.00. Forget the dealer. Look at autozone.com and get the same one made by the Honda OEM (Kehin) for $300.00. That is what I did several months back.

While you need a way of lifting your car to replace the axle, the replacement of the carburetor doesn't require lifts. I did mine in a couple of hours. The task that took the longest time was cleaning the intake manifold of the old gaskets, otherwise it was pretty easy and self explanatory when you look at the layout. If you decide to replace the carburetor, you MUST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. Don't even chance the occurence of an electrical spark with raw fuel around. Don't bother with the dealer, find a local independent shop that knows HONDAs and you'll pay far less than at the dealer.

Claude

87DXHatch
09-30-2002, 06:58 PM
Settle down, Claude, geez...

Hmmm, axle around 60-100... installation 70-100... know what it cost me, to get done at the dealers, by guys who have actually worked on 3rd generation accords before? $190

You have GOT to realize that not every 17-year-old kid can find the time and tools to do something like changing an axle, ESPECIALLY if it requires me to somehow get ahold of one of those huge wrenches or whatever to get the one special bolt off the end of the axle. And I do have a Hayne's Manual.

Then add another $10 to find out that I don't have any vacuum leaks that are apparent... total: $200

Turns out that my high idle problems, apparently, were because of my gas pedal getting stuck in: solution, pull it out with your foot.

The Honda mechanic who showed me to pull it out with your foot also said that he has that problem on his '88 LX... and he said he had an LXi before and he liked the carbuerator better... hmmm, when Honda techs drive 3rd generation accords instead of new stuff, that's gotta tell you something :D

Anyway... he said that my problem might be a base gasket (?) or something like that... the part would be $114 and labor is $100... I guess if I get the high idle sh!t again I might go for that... maybe.

Thanks for the thoughts and replies all... I am super happy to have her back on the road.

anchovies
10-01-2002, 12:01 AM
Did you tell the tech about this site??
Invaluable advice from a honda tech is ...errr..invaluable

89lxi95zx7
10-01-2002, 06:53 AM
I had two axels put in my 89lxi auto, it cost me $289.But i would have paid more to get rid of that fu**ing clicking.

BoredRec
10-01-2002, 03:50 PM
Originally posted by anchovies
Did you tell the tech about this site??
Invaluable advice from a honda tech is ...errr..invaluable

Hey! Don't I count? I may not work at Honda, but I would hope that 3 years experience at a Honda/Acura independent shop should count for something.

We charge $180 plus tax for the axle. I can get it done around 20 minutes, that's including the time to rack the car.
That base gasket thing is called the insulator block, which does go out on carb cars....it's not the easiest thing to do, but it's cheaper than a rebuilt carb. Spray some brake cleaner around the base of the carburator and see if that changes the engine speed.

anchovies
10-01-2002, 08:11 PM
Originally posted by BoredRec


Hey! Don't I count? I may not work at Honda, but I would hope that 3 years experience at a Honda/Acura independent shop should count for something.


okie, you count :D

thirdgenaccord
10-03-2002, 11:39 AM
Is it hard to replace the ball joints on an 89accord se-i?

BoredRec
10-03-2002, 11:56 AM
No, if you know how to do it. <bet that helped>

anchovies
10-03-2002, 11:11 PM
Originally posted by BoredRec
No, if you know how to do it. <bet that helped>
Alright, you're no help "3 years experience at a Honda/Acura independent shop" ..lol j/k
Yeah it's easy to change, rent or get a 2 jaw puller or just hammer than thing lose.
You can do it.

WILLYD
11-02-2006, 05:56 PM
Is it hard to replace the ball joints on an 89accord se-i?
you probably have to remove the whole upper control arm which is easy two nuts under your hood hold it on- remove those and the nut holding it to the lower control arm then hit the lower control arm with a hammer and wala its off

frantik
11-02-2006, 06:12 PM
lol thirdgenaccord last logged in almost 4 years ago dude

MessyHonda
11-02-2006, 07:56 PM
lol...good advice tho....i will have to fix that on my car also