Cruise Control Problem

[DBMaster]

I recently disconnected the cruise control unit to move it our of the way to change the left motor mount. Tried to use it today for the first time in months. It will not engage. The switch tests OK, applicable fuses are all OK. The wires to the control unit do not appear to be brittle or broken. The test procedure in the manual looks pretty onerous so I am not 100% sure I want to mess with it at all given how little I have used the thing in 19 years. I just hate having non-working stuff!

Anybody have experience with this component? Maybe there's a common trouble spot that I triggered when I unplugged it and moved it over?

[A18A]

how about the brake switch? thats what was wrong with mine, the brake lights worked and all but the cruise control didnt untill i adjusted that switch some more, or clutch switch if your car is a manual

[lostforawhile]

did you adjust anything? have you checked the vaccume lines? there's a line to the unit, then it splits into a check valve and a vaccume storage canister. i have some good scans on checking it, let me find them.

[lostforawhile]

here it is,this is pretty straight forward info http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66399

[Rendon LX-i]

Does your horn work? if it works your cruise is getting power and working. Thats all in one curcit but idk bout your vac. if you got a vac leak then theres you problem . spary some carb cleaning around you vacum lines if you get a hight rise of idle then you got a vacum problem.

[AccordB20A]

does the green light come on and then go off?? that usually means theres no vacuum or the unit is unplugged, but yes check the vacuum pipes, the canester isnt really necessary either

[lostforawhile]

Does your horn work? if it works your cruise is getting power and working. Thats all in one curcit but idk bout your vac. if you got a vac leak then theres you problem . spary some carb cleaning around you vacum lines if you get a hight rise of idle then you got a vacum problem.
no the cruise control has it's own fuse, it pulls power from the horn ring to send the button signals to the control unit. if the on off button comes on when you push it then it has power,that is powered off of the brain.

[Rendon LX-i]

no the cruise control has it's own fuse, it pulls power from the horn ring to send the button signals to the control unit. if the on off button comes on when you push it then it has power,that is powered off of the brain.

Well now i know. Thats something i had a problem with and i figured it out. But so true

[LX-incredible]

I had a similar problem on the auto. The slip ring and brushes under the steering wheel needed a cleaning.

[DBMaster]

Since I unplugged it last week to move it, and I recall yanking the wires a bit, I am betting I have a short in the harness wire to the unit. It worked last time I used it - in July. I pretty much NEVER use it. Sometimes, on a road trip, I would use it just because it was there, but I don't feel really in control when I use it. It has been used very little in the car's life. I ought to just remove all the junk, but it bugs me to have non-working stuff. It's like Click and Clack say. If you start letting little things go on an older car you eventually end up with a lot of little things wrong and suddenly you realize you are driving a sled. Maybe if I bought a more interesting steering wheel that didn't even have a place to mount the CC switches I would be able to rationalize not worrying about something I never use.

[DBMaster]

I feel smart and stupid at the same time. I had to fix the brake light switch several months ago when the little rubber "peg" on the brake pedal arm broke. I noticed that the slightest amount of pressure on the brake pedal would make the brake lights come on. So, I pulled the pedal back with my foot and tried the cruise. It worked fine. I adjusted the brake pedal switch a little tighter and now have working cruise control again. So, it had nothing to do with moving it to change the motor mount. Even though the brake lights were not on I guess the switch was out just enough to tell the cruise circuit that the brake pedal had been depressed. There are more than two wires on the switch so maybe there's a switch position that cuts off the cruise without actually lighting up the brake lights. Weird, but I feel better that it's working even if I rarely use it.

[A18A]

ha thats the same problem my cruise control had

[lostforawhile]

I feel smart and stupid at the same time. I had to fix the brake light switch several months ago when the little rubber "peg" on the brake pedal arm broke. I noticed that the slightest amount of pressure on the brake pedal would make the brake lights come on. So, I pulled the pedal back with my foot and tried the cruise. It worked fine. I adjusted the brake pedal switch a little tighter and now have working cruise control again. So, it had nothing to do with moving it to change the motor mount. Even though the brake lights were not on I guess the switch was out just enough to tell the cruise circuit that the brake pedal had been depressed. There are more than two wires on the switch so maybe there's a switch position that cuts off the cruise without actually lighting up the brake lights. Weird, but I feel better that it's working even if I rarely use it.it's two circuits,one is normally closed and one is normally open. the normally open one is for your brake lights,the normally closed is for the cruise. i'm pretty sure from looking at later hondas that they are all the same switch wise, the wire color codes might be different but it's the same two circuits,and more then likely the same metric thread. should make it possible to use a later model switch if needed.