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View Full Version : p/s problem again...



hikingmatt
01-10-2009, 08:57 AM
So i noticed this morning after moving my car that I had a puddle of fluid under my car. So I jacked it up and noticed that the boot on the steering rack on the passenger side had tear in it and that is where the fluid is coming from. I just replaced the P/S pressure hose a few months ago. With p/s fluid coming out of the boot area does this mean the seals are messed up? As far as replacing the rack I have a lift I can use but how hard is this job really?:help:

Hauntd ca3
01-10-2009, 01:50 PM
i think that would suggest the seals are stuffed eh.
dont think they are to hard to replace, easier if you have a hoist

lostforawhile
01-10-2009, 03:10 PM
if the rack is leaking you would probably do better to get a rebuilt rack,then to start fixing one that over 20 years old. and all you need is to jack up the car and put it on jackstands. why would you ned a hoist?

hikingmatt
01-10-2009, 04:18 PM
if the rack is leaking you would probably do better to get a rebuilt rack,then to start fixing one that over 20 years old. and all you need is to jack up the car and put it on jackstands. why would you ned a hoist?

yeah i was going for buying one and putting it in not rebuilding. As far as using a lift would probably be best for me. Laying on my back on cold concrete is not a good combo and the lift would save me a lot of frustration. But how hard is it to get the rack out?

lostforawhile
01-10-2009, 04:32 PM
yeah i was going for buying one and putting it in not rebuilding. As far as using a lift would probably be best for me. Laying on my back on cold concrete is not a good combo and the lift would save me a lot of frustration. But how hard is it to get the rack out?there should be a write up on here somewhere the rack is attached to the cross member. you also need to remove the u joint thats hidden in the panel under the carpet, make sure you use a metric flare wrench when taking off the hard lines at the rack, and you will have to have your car realigned.

hikingmatt
01-10-2009, 04:46 PM
there should be a write up on here somewhere the rack is attached to the cross member. you also need to remove the u joint thats hidden in the panel under the carpet, make sure you use a metric flare wrench when taking off the hard lines at the rack, and you will have to have your car realigned.

I looked but did not find anything on just removing the steering rack. I have a metric flare wrench set from replacing the p/s pressure hose a few months ago.

Dr_Snooz
01-10-2009, 11:05 PM
Changing a rack is a pretty big repair. You'll want to download the manual and read up carefully before proceeding. The manual is here:

http://honda.roadpwnage.com/manuals/pages/usdm-accord-1989-full.php

Post again if you have any questions.

hikingmatt
01-11-2009, 03:23 AM
If i just took off the p/s belt would it be ok for a week to drive it? I only drive like 15 mi a day and that is on roads that are 25mph. I know it would be a pita to drive like that but would it be possible and cause damage any where else?

A18A
01-11-2009, 03:42 AM
yup

hikingmatt
01-11-2009, 04:28 AM
yup

yes it would be ok or yes it would cause damage???

cygnus x-1
01-11-2009, 10:02 AM
All power steering racks are designed to operate without power as a safety feature; like if the power steering pump fails. Some people (including myself) even remove the pump and lines and use the rack as a manual all the time. To do it right you would drain the rack and grease the sliding parts; and also remove the pistons seals or the guts from the valve body. This is to make sure you won't be working against any pressure buildup as the rack moves back and forth.

It will feel a little heavier in your case since you're just removing the belt but it won't damage anything. Low speed turning will be harder but that's about it.

C|

hikingmatt
01-11-2009, 02:17 PM
All power steering racks are designed to operate without power as a safety feature; like if the power steering pump fails. Some people (including myself) even remove the pump and lines and use the rack as a manual all the time. To do it right you would drain the rack and grease the sliding parts; and also remove the pistons seals or the guts from the valve body. This is to make sure you won't be working against any pressure buildup as the rack moves back and forth.

It will feel a little heavier in your case since you're just removing the belt but it won't damage anything. Low speed turning will be harder but that's about it.

C|

Ok good. I can handle the steering being stiff as long as i can get through this week and I can replace it next weekend. Napa was the only place I could find a steering rack today and by the time I could have gotten there I would not had enough time to fix it today. Sounds like it going to be an adventure to do but I have gotten some good tips from here and from a mechanic buddy.

lostforawhile
01-11-2009, 02:41 PM
Ok good. I can handle the steering being stiff as long as i can get through this week and I can replace it next weekend. Napa was the only place I could find a steering rack today and by the time I could have gotten there I would not had enough time to fix it today. Sounds like it going to be an adventure to do but I have gotten some good tips from here and from a mechanic buddy.
nappa rack is a good rack,see if they have the moog problem solver tie rod ends in the process,if they don't summit does,if i replace a rack i usually replace the tie rod ends,since they are off anyway. the moog ones have a grease fitting, you can pump it full of grease and flush out any dirt and contaminents from time to time. mine have been on for years and about evey three months i repack them full of grease with a grease gun,they should outlast the car.

AZmike
01-11-2009, 03:29 PM
Here's a thread about rack replacement:
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59142&highlight=rack

In the summary I left out the gearbox cover removal. It's 3 6 mm bolts

Here's some other threads that may help:
http://www.3geez.com/forum/search.php?searchid=821835

hikingmatt
01-11-2009, 03:56 PM
Here's a thread about rack replacement:
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59142&highlight=rack

In the summary I left out the gearbox cover removal. It's 3 6 mm bolts

Here's some other threads that may help:
http://www.3geez.com/forum/search.php?searchid=821835

-I think I have read most of those the past two days so thanks for the research. I know about the cover from having to change the p/s pressure hose a few months ago.



nappa rack is a good rack,see if they have the moog problem solver tie rod ends in the process,if they don't summit does,if i replace a rack i usually replace the tie rod ends,since they are off anyway. the moog ones have a grease fitting, you can pump it full of grease and flush out any dirt and contaminents from time to time. mine have been on for years and about evey three months i repack them full of grease with a grease gun,they should outlast the car.

-I will have to check into seeing if they have the tie rod ends. I was thinking about changing them but had not looked to much into due to just worrying about getting it replaced asap. But now I have a little bit more time to plan it out...

lostforawhile
01-11-2009, 04:03 PM
-I think I have read most of those the past two days so thanks for the research. I know about the cover from having to change the p/s pressure hose a few months ago.




-I will have to check into seeing if they have the tie rod ends. I was thinking about changing them but had not looked to much into due to just worrying about getting it replaced asap. But now I have a little bit more time to plan it out...I personally always try to use the moog stuff, if you think about it thats the component thats allowing you to keep the car going in a straight line, then you think,hmmmm cheap ass ones,or a little bit more for really good quality ones. My wife rides in my car so you know the answer as far as me. i have the nappa rack myself,am happy with it, it leaked a little at first,but then it stopped, I think the seals have to wear in a bit.

hikingmatt
01-17-2009, 03:21 AM
Well I going to get the steering rack fixed this morning. I found a mechanic that would do it for $200 which I thought was a good price. It's also only 16*F right now and it's only suppose to get up to 29!!! I am about to go take the p/s belt off in a minute and try to drive it to the shop with no p/s!

Dr_Snooz
01-17-2009, 06:57 AM
It took me two days to replace the rack on my last Honda. I'm still saying Hail Marys for all the cursing and I was covered in filth after finishing. If it's 16 degrees then $200 is money well spent.

russiankid
01-17-2009, 08:04 AM
Took me 8 hours to do mine by myself.

hikingmatt
01-17-2009, 09:25 AM
I got there at 8 and was at home at 11.. It was well worth it I think..

russiankid
01-17-2009, 07:53 PM
Its really a learning experience to do it yourself. I bet I can this job tackled in 4 hours now.

hikingmatt
01-18-2009, 05:55 AM
Yeah. I stayed there the whole time freezing my ass off while he did it so I could have an idea of how it is to be done. There were a couple of things he had to do to actually get the old rack out that I would have not thought of or known to do.

lostforawhile
01-18-2009, 06:16 AM
Yeah. I stayed there the whole time freezing my ass off while he did it so I could have an idea of how it is to be done. There were a couple of things he had to do to actually get the old rack out that I would have not thought of or known to do.
but could you have found where the heck the U joint was? it's confused some good mechanics before.