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Rendon LX-i
01-17-2009, 09:59 PM
yes yes its leaking an its new. Is this common casue its fusturating to see that when i just put that on. I put Import gasket maker all over the gasket itself. I dont think that would cause it to leak. Its only leaking from the timming belt side. Well both of the "U" sides. right at the middle so idk. its not to bad couple of leaks and thats it. What do you guys think i did wrong?:uh:

DBMaster
01-17-2009, 10:11 PM
Maybe the bolts were tightened too much? I personally have not had much luck in the past with this job so when mine got too bad I took it to a good Honda shop and it hasn't leaked since. That's five and a half years so far. The job's way too much of a pain to do it and still have leaks and my level of patience is just not that high!

Rendon LX-i
01-17-2009, 10:14 PM
ummm i think thats my problem its to tight. but thats cause i didnt torque em. FUCk oh well...just have to deal with it a bit then replace it again.

Rendon LX-i
01-17-2009, 10:32 PM
Or also i used gasket maker when i was suppose to use sealant. so Crankshaft pressure blew out the gasket marker causing it to leak....Just have to replace it again. Going to wait tell spring/summer.

Demon1024
01-17-2009, 10:43 PM
i'm doing this right now myself. thing leaks right onto to front of the exhaust and causes a terrible cloud from under my hood.
whats the difference between gasket maker and sealant? i have to ask...
i call the stuff i use gasket sealant.lol
not meaning to jack but i'm into this myself and only want to do it once

Rendon LX-i
01-17-2009, 10:58 PM
i'm doing this right now myself. thing leaks right onto to front of the exhaust and causes a terrible cloud from under my hood.
whats the difference between gasket maker and sealant? i have to ask...
i call the stuff i use gasket sealant.lol
not meaning to jack but i'm into this myself and only want to do it once

sealer is just thin film and dont leave that extra/hardern crap like RTV silicon does. Lets say you put a shit load of RTV and you tighen the bolts, then see that its starting to ozz out. So you know that thats happening in the inside of the pan also so....when it drys up that extra harden RTV can fall into the oil and block the oil pick up or oil pump causing you motor to starve then you can figure out the rest lol...not good. but i didnt use a shit load.

Rendon

Hauntd ca3
01-17-2009, 11:16 PM
buy some threebond or similar sealant.
you only needa thin smear of the stuff on either side on the gasket and it works a treat

Strugglebucket
01-18-2009, 01:59 AM
Here's what I think are the key steps in keeping the oil pan leak free:

1. Clean the gasket mounting surface of the block and pan with acetone or some kind of solvent.
2. Use honda oem gasket
3. Put a little bit of red rtv on the pan on the "U" cutout corners.
4. Put the gasket on the block first, not on the pan. This insures proper alignment of the gasket. The studs will hold the gasket in place.
5. Start tightening the nuts from the middle and work your way to the outside. The spec is 7ft/lbs. Once you have tightened all the nuts, go back to the first ones and re-tighten until they're back to 7ft/lbs. Repeat as many times as necessary until all the nuts hold @ 7ft/lbs.

Always works for me!

2oodoor
01-18-2009, 03:59 AM
nice^^^
no need to use gasket maker or rtv if you are using a gasket. That stuff acts like grease and will hydraulicly push out the actual gasket when you start squeezing on it. Only just a tad on the corners of the u shaped like everyone says, Tad= about the size of a piece of chicken that gets stuck in your teeth :lol: or maybe a booger...

Remember oil pan leaks would normally never be from pressure, only gravity. It will come out from slinging around, then drip from where it spilled. If it is steady coming out when the motor is running it may be a crank seal or something else. If you have that much pressure sometin 's a fowl. I understand your pressure cookin anyway so you may want to chick that .:uh:,not supposed to be using the oil pan for an air tank.
Hope that helps,

MessyHonda
01-18-2009, 09:18 AM
we used a honda gasket and sealant that i let stay overnight...no leaks

Rendon LX-i
01-18-2009, 09:57 AM
Thats what im going to do messy. how much they cost

russiankid
01-18-2009, 11:51 AM
Is the pan a Honda one? When I had an aftermarket pan, it would always leak. Once I spent the money on a Honda pan, the gasket actually snapped into the U sections. Then I just applied some Honda sealant on the gasket itself on the U portion, no where else. Used string to hold the gasket to the pan. Once I got a few bolts to hold the pan I removed the strings and used an extension with a socket to tighten the bolts in the pattern in the Haynes manual. Furthermore, I then used a ratchet and gave each bolt 1/4 turn. I kept repeating that until each bolt felt tight. Right now it seeps from the front left and right corners, but its nothing to worry about.

Rendon LX-i
01-18-2009, 11:55 AM
They way you said it is the way i Exactly did it. Seeps alittle Only after i go for a drive and sits. but couple of drops not a consant drip.

russiankid
01-18-2009, 12:34 PM
It took me 4 or 5 tries to get it to seal fairly well.

newy
01-19-2009, 05:55 AM
Use Loctite liquid gaskets. Specifically Loctite 5699. It's OEM approved at Honda and in my experience works better for aftermarket servicing because it has longer open time. The problem with short open time (like TB products becasue they contain solvents), is that they skin over prior to assembly. This doesn't allow the product to provide sufficient adhesion and sealing characteristics. Go for the Loctite brand!

MessyHonda
01-19-2009, 09:17 AM
Thats what im going to do messy. how much they cost

mine was like 23 bucks from honda

LX-incredible
01-19-2009, 09:37 AM
I used a honda gasket with a thin layer of gasket maker. Not the "correct" way, but it doesn't leak a drop.

SILENT
01-19-2009, 10:48 AM
I just did mine with an aftermarket pan and aftermarket gasket... I was told don't use RTV only the the u corners!!! well i did that and i torqued first to 7ft. lbs and then to 10 ft. lbs and its leaking i put some oil dye to see exactly where its leaking... but the gasket itself looks overtighten!!!

LX-incredible
01-19-2009, 01:40 PM
I just did mine with an aftermarket pan and aftermarket gasket... I was told don't use RTV only the the u corners!!! well i did that and i torqued first to 7ft. lbs and then to 10 ft. lbs and its leaking i put some oil dye to see exactly where its leaking... but the gasket itself looks overtighten!!!

When you go tighter it crushes the little bumps that space the pan from the block... The result is crushed gasket.

Another thing I wanted to point out is that a 5-80 ft/lbs torque wrench is not going to be very accurate at the lower end. Get something in the correct range or if you're careful, you can feel when those indentations make contact, and go a hair tighter. You'll end up over-torquing with anything else.

Rendon LX-i
01-19-2009, 04:16 PM
im going to but a 1/2 inch tq wrench they pretty cheap so i can do it right. then i use the loctite gasket maker. Ill try that.

LX-incredible
01-19-2009, 07:39 PM
I wouldn't bother. It'll likely be too tight before you even get a reading on that...

Dr_Snooz
01-19-2009, 07:58 PM
Here's what I think are the key steps in keeping the oil pan leak free:

1. Clean the gasket mounting surface of the block and pan with acetone or some kind of solvent.
2. Use honda oem gasket
3. Put a little bit of red rtv on the pan on the "U" cutout corners.
4. Put the gasket on the block first, not on the pan. This insures proper alignment of the gasket. The studs will hold the gasket in place.
5. Start tightening the nuts from the middle and work your way to the outside. The spec is 7ft/lbs. Once you have tightened all the nuts, go back to the first ones and re-tighten until they're back to 7ft/lbs. Repeat as many times as necessary until all the nuts hold @ 7ft/lbs.

Always works for me!

This about covers it. The torque sequence is probably most important. I don't do the acetone bit and I use Napa gaskets, but I've done two with zero leaks each time. Don't remember how I kept the thing from moving around, but it probably involved a lot of swearing. If you don't have a torque wrench, then GET ONE!! I'd sooner do without a ratchet than a torque wrench. In fact, I'd give up half my toolbox to keep the torque wrench.

Rendon LX-i
01-19-2009, 08:46 PM
i got a 3/4 torque wrench but dont have a 10lbs setting lol. going to get one her very soon. I did put the gasket on the block first. I tryed the pan first but i was getting very pissed lol...

evil88accordLX
01-19-2009, 11:10 PM
ive always found it easier to smear an incredibly thin layer of sealant to the part (oil pan, valve cover, top of block, etc.) with my finger, let it sit and get tacky, apply the gasket and let it sit for 20-30 minutes, add sealant again with my finger to the other side of the gasket, let it sit and get tacky, then put it on the car. this way seems to keep from leaking, and you dont get gobs of sealant pressing out from the mating surfaces. if you do it all at once, you also run the risk of getting an air bubble caught between the gasket and mating surfaces, and that leads to leaks.

SILENT
04-19-2009, 02:57 PM
Today i reinstalled my oil pan gasket added a small amount of selant around the u corners and the middle studs and it turns out im leaking from the middle studs front and rear!!! IM FUCKING PISSED THIS WAS THE 2ND TIME!!! and still leaking!!! i torqued it to 9 newton meters... read my shop manual and it said 14nm... i also used a 3/8 snap-on digital torque wrench!!! ill try and and tighten them again!!! if this doesnt fix it im gonna to buy a OEM Honda Gasket!!!!

russiankid
04-19-2009, 03:03 PM
^^ My brother and I did mine 8 times...quiet down.:hs:

Dr_Snooz
04-19-2009, 03:04 PM
Did you torque in proper sequence? If not, you probably have a fold in those spots.

I wish Honda (or someone) would make a gasket with smaller bolts holes. It would be nice if they were small enough to hold the bolts while you get the thing into place.

SILENT
04-19-2009, 05:55 PM
^^ My brother and I did mine 8 times...quiet down.:hs:

Its just freaking frustrating!!!


Did you torque in proper sequence? If not, you probably have a fold in those spots.

I wish Honda (or someone) would make a gasket with smaller bolts holes. It would be nice if they were small enough to hold the bolts while you get the thing into place.

Nope I didnt have my manual handy... and michell ondemand didnt have it @ work so kinda freestyled it!!! what page is it on the shop manual... i was looking but that thing is huge!!!

Well i try and torque them again since i didnt go to all the way to 14nm... If not I will order one from Honda and do it again!!!:(

lostforawhile
04-19-2009, 06:51 PM
listen you need to get some gasket adhesive,it's not a sealer,but it will allow you to glue the gasket to the pan before you put it on. make sure the surface for the gasket is super clean,before you glue it on. it takes a while to set,so be prepared to let it sit for a few hours. you need just a little bit of sealer in the corners on the block, when you glue the gasket use something to line up the holes on the pan with the gasket, i use #2 pencils. once it sets the gasket won't shift while you install it. much eaisier then trying to glue it to the block. tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern, you don't need a torque wrench if you can figure out ten inch pounds, it's not much, if you overtighten, the gasket will be squeezed out. if you have crankcase pressure blowing out the gasket, you need to check your pcv system. you have other problems not related to the gasket.

Dr_Snooz
04-19-2009, 08:08 PM
The torque sequence isn't in the manual. You just start in the middle and work outward in an X pattern. You do it so it doesn't end up leaking... :(

SILENT
04-19-2009, 08:16 PM
listen you need to get some gasket adhesive,it's not a sealer,but it will allow you to glue the gasket to the pan before you put it on. make sure the surface for the gasket is super clean,before you glue it on. it takes a while to set,so be prepared to let it sit for a few hours. you need just a little bit of sealer in the corners on the block, when you glue the gasket use something to line up the holes on the pan with the gasket, i use #2 pencils. once it sets the gasket won't shift while you install it. much eaisier then trying to glue it to the block. tighten the bolts in a criss cross pattern, you don't need a torque wrench if you can figure out ten inch pounds, it's not much, if you overtighten, the gasket will be squeezed out. if you have crankcase pressure blowing out the gasket, you need to check your pcv system. you have other problems not related to the gasket.

Well i dont know about the crankcase pressure... i just did a head job so i changed the pcv hose under the intake manifold and the pcv itself and i also added a little valve cover breather filter!!! the weird thing is that it only leaks when the car is on!!! im going to go ahead and tighten up to 14nm and see... if it leaks i will buy a honda gasket and use the adhesive... ps i tried the loctite copper gasket adhesive but i sprayed it on the oil pan... didnt have time to wait since i was @ work!!!




The torque sequence isn't in the manual. You just start in the middle and work outward in an X pattern. You do it so it doesn't end up leaking... :(

oh ok i thought there was a specific sequence... i did do that x pattern... i guess i fucked up somewhere!!! i guess ima skip the torque wrench!!! next time

lostforawhile
04-19-2009, 08:25 PM
Well i dont know about the crankcase pressure... i just did a head job so i changed the pcv hose under the intake manifold and the pcv itself and i also added a little valve cover breather filter!!! the weird thing is that it only leaks when the car is on!!! im going to go ahead and tighten up to 14nm and see... if it leaks i will buy a honda gasket and use the adhesive... ps i tried the loctite copper gasket adhesive but i sprayed it on the oil pan... didnt have time to wait since i was @ work!!!





oh ok i thought there was a specific sequence... i did do that x pattern... i guess i fucked up somewhere!!! i guess ima skip the torque wrench!!! next time
the stuff i'm talking about isn't a sealer, it's a gasket adhesive,it's only reason is to glue the gasket to the pan, the rubber gasket makes the seal,not sealer. if it leaks while it's on,make sure it's not your crank seal, it will look just like the pan is leaking, if it's not that you have too much crankcase pressure and it can't escape for some reason.

SILENT
04-21-2009, 10:05 AM
well tomorrow i will try to tighten it up again this time to 14nm... if it still leaks i have a oem honda gasket ready!!! ill let you guys know with the progress... and this time no rtv!!!

russiankid
04-21-2009, 10:11 AM
Use Honda Bond...trust me.

SILENT
04-21-2009, 10:16 AM
whats that???

SILENT
04-22-2009, 05:43 PM
where can i buy oe honda liquid gasket??? part number 08718-550000... Ive look @ hondapartsdeals.com and nothing!!!

russiankid
04-22-2009, 05:44 PM
At the dealer. Ask for Honda bond. Its great stuff. You put it in the corners like RTV.

Rendon LX-i
04-22-2009, 06:48 PM
See thats where i fucked up....i put gasket maker or a light coat over the pan first then i put the gasket on..leaks on the coners...

SILENT
04-22-2009, 06:55 PM
well i put a lil rtv on the center studs to hold the olympus gasket onto place!!! apprently thats was a big no no and it blew the gasket str8 out!!! Got a honda gasket and i will be using OE honda liquid gasket!!! I hope this will be the last time!!! It kinda embarrasing having white smoke coming out under your car!!!

russiankid
04-22-2009, 07:03 PM
I only have some oil seeping at a few bolts. Its not enough for me to bother with again.

Rendon LX-i
04-22-2009, 07:15 PM
same here.........couple drops

Dr_Snooz
04-22-2009, 07:35 PM
I've done two with no leaks. At all. The gasket maker/sealer/gluer/whatever is not the problem. I smeared it all over everything the first time and just the corners the second time. it didn't make a difference except that the first one was a bigger mess to clean up. You must take care to ensure that the gasket seats properly, is torqued properly and in the proper sequence.

2ndGenGuy
04-22-2009, 09:22 PM
I just did mine tonight. I used small zip ties in all the holes except for the holes where there are studs on the block. That held it on nice and tight, then I hand tightened the nuts onto the studs, and cut the zip ties off and put the bolt in one at a time. Then none of it comes out of alignment.

Rendon LX-i
04-22-2009, 10:54 PM
seems like dont drip as much as the first time so idk

russiankid
04-23-2009, 03:04 AM
Mine doesn't drip it just puts a small film of oil on the pan on the side. Its not enough to even get to the bottom of the pan.

Tdurr
04-23-2009, 02:43 PM
^^ thats how mine is. Its kinda annoying.

russiankid
04-23-2009, 02:44 PM
After fucking with it 8 times, I can deal with this type of leak.

SILENT
04-23-2009, 06:44 PM
I just did mine tonight. I used small zip ties in all the holes except for the holes where there are studs on the block. That held it on nice and tight, then I hand tightened the nuts onto the studs, and cut the zip ties off and put the bolt in one at a time. Then none of it comes out of alignment.

That is an awesome method... I definately i will try this!!!

SILENT
04-27-2009, 02:02 PM
Well i tried the zip tie method like 2ndGenGuy did and it was a great idea... i use it with a oem gasket and hondabond.... AND NO LEAKS!!!!!! Im so happy!!! Thanks alot you guys for all the information!!! and Rendon im sorry for the thread jack!!!

Rendon LX-i
04-27-2009, 04:44 PM
LOL....no problem...its all good...now i know