Spark Plug gap?

[Rendon LX-i]

Hey boosted 3geezers. Can you guys tell me what gap and plug your running? When i first Ran the accord i was running NGK v-powers at 0.50 with just the ss blaster coil. At WOT it burned 1,2,3. Now i cant even burn out in 2nd Since i put the mallory box and new plugs that are gap at .28 which are NGK G-powers with a FINE ASS TIP. :dunno:

So now im at WOT first gear is strong, and 2nd it wants to Break loose but not as strong. If you guys seen my video thats how it used to be. But dont get me wrong its fast still but idk. Maybe bump up the boost to 1.0 bar.

Throw me some ideas guys. :banghead:

[Tdurr]

gotta get spark plugs that are 2 step colder for sure. and i would say gap them to .3 to see if it helps at all.

[Rendon LX-i]

.3 as in 30? im going to have to go back with the V-powers. what plugs do you recommend?

[Tdurr]

yea .30, but i would say go back to the v power. If you do any deep searching on here(i did before) they say that those plugs were designed for our engines. So i would find some 2 steps colder then stock, and gap them to .30 and go from there.

[2oodoor]

not boosted veteren but an auto tech for xx years
I say ditch the mallory j u n k , go back to the blaster or either oem (which is just fine btw) and use the U groove ngk plugs like you a posed ta.:tongue:

Sounds to me more like you need to tune in the fuel system not to lean out so bad at WOT, you are going to burn your combustion chamber the same as those three plugs.. the spark is not what burnt them my frieind. You will burn a piston like that, and then some. If you can access one of those cool video inspection cameras you should borrow one and look around inside the CC thru the spark plug hole and see what you have.
good luck with it, and I love your car dude..

[AccordEpicenter]

if i remember correctly, Im using BPR7ES NGK plugs, colder than stock gapped at .28 Are you sure you hooked up the mallory box correctly?

[Rendon LX-i]

not boosted veteren but an auto tech for xx years
I say ditch the mallory j u n k , go back to the blaster or either oem (which is just fine btw) and use the U groove ngk plugs like you a posed ta.:tongue:

Sounds to me more like you need to tune in the fuel system not to lean out so bad at WOT, you are going to burn your combustion chamber the same as those three plugs.. the spark is not what burnt them my frieind. You will burn a piston like that, and then some. If you can access one of those cool video inspection cameras you should borrow one and look around inside the CC thru the spark plug hole and see what you have.
good luck with it, and I love your car dude..

Thanks man. As far as leaning out im not. But maybe i am. MY plugs are a little black but nothing major...i got it tuned by a buddy that does that type of stuff. But the Mallory prolly is the the issue. ummm ill post a vid this weekend to show you guys with a/f ratios an wat not.


if i remember correctly, Im using BPR7ES NGK plugs, colder than stock gapped at .28 Are you sure you hooked up the mallory box correctly?

As far as i know it is. But i really think its the plugs or Maybe it just me and just wanting more boost lol.... But im going to have to install a catch can before all that...Im going back to the v-powers here quick. Ill post a vid and you tell me what you think bro...But all an all runs fine. I made sure i hooked up it right. that piece of shit went out on me 2 years ago and i got it rebuild and just put it back on last month. but thanks for the help man...ill get back to you guys with the Progress.

[gfrg88]

get a wideband so you can REALLY tune the AFR...

[Rendon LX-i]

Need Obd1 first dont I?

[89T]

Need Obd1 first dont I?
no.
get an aem wide band and either order a o2 bung or go to you're local muffler shop and pick one up.
weld it in and wire up a hot and ground.
if you are burning plugs, you're probably detonating even though the plugs are black...the car can be running rich out of boost and lean at full boost.
what is you'r timming set at?

[89T]

did you do the blue wire mod on the afc?

t in the blue wire on the afc to the 2nd o2 sensor.
go to chk sensor an you can see the o2 sensor voltage. not a wide band but it will help when tunning..i'll elaborate later...

[Rendon LX-i]

yea Ive done the blue wire mod shit i totaly forgot bout that. Ill see what reads this morning. well this work

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Innovate-LC-1-Wideband-o2-Db-Red-Or-Blue-Gauge-Uego_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a 2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1308Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q 3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZite m200302006000QQitemZ200302006000QQptZMotorsQ5fAuto motiveQ5fTools

[89T]

dam that thing is bad ass and cheaper than the AEM.

that will work just fine.

i am going to have to do some research on the voltages for the blue wire mod.
DONE! i got this from AEM.
you want to maintain 12.5:1 afr under boost.

[Rendon LX-i]

Thanks man. im a little Confussed bout the Volt reading i went by what hondatech said. my first input says 1.40 or alittle lower. yet on my secound input Blue wire mod it reads .550-.600 which in hondatech says
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

k many people hook up the blue wire on the safc or vafc to the o2 sensor to read air and fuel mixtures. this works absolutly great, its just as accurate as a wide band o2 scanner. ive searched and havent seen any of the following information about how this all works together with in the *afc's

hook up the blue wire to the o2 sensor signal wire. you can do it anywhere on the line itself or at the ecu (pin C15 or 16 i believe). its a signle white wire at the o2 side and the ecu side. you can find it easily (ecu side) buy cutting back part of the harness loom. look for a really thick brown insulator. in that insulator is the white wire to and from the o2 sensor. *be sure to use a larger guage (thinner) wire when hooking it up* (super low amounts of current pass thur this wire, too thick of a wire the ecu ****s up and throws codes for the o2 sensor) once the blue wire to the afc is hooked up start the car. goto the main menu, arrow down to "etc". once in the "etc" menu goto sensor check. voltage off the o2 sensor will be listed under "input 2" or "in 2". it mesaures up to one thousanth of a volt. when you first start the car you will only get a reading in the hundreths of a volt. this is because the o2 sensor is only usefull once heated.

how to tune.
o2 voltages rage from 0 to 1. 0 being lean as hell and 1 being rich as hell
.500 - .600 volts corresponds to a stoichiometric (14.7:1) air fuel ratio. this is a dead nutz air fuel ratio. not rich not lean. anything higher than that correcponds to a more rich mixture. anything less than .500 volts translates to a lean mixture. anything over .600 trans lates to a more rich mixture. optimum performance during WOT is a slightly rich mixture.

now the crappy part:

all of the normal monitoring functions of the afc are completely useless when you are runnig the sensor check, ie you cant see wtf their doing. this hurts in 3 ways: rpms are not known, throttle position is not known and percentage of correction is not known. also you cant record any data

ways around that:
rpms, watch an external (not stock) tach
throttle position, watch your throttle voltage in the sensor check menu. i dont know what the voltage to percentage conversion is, hasnt affected me b/c my "high throttle" is set to 30 % (relitavily low)
% of correction: no clue havent figured that one out yet.

basicly you want to watch your voltage and keep an eye on your tach. note where the voltage is at what rpm, i tune per 1000 rpms so its quite easy to tell what range i need to adjust with in the rpm based settings.


why the blue wire does that it does:
the blue wire is put on the afc's as another pressure signal for sr26 (or is it rb26?)motors (skylines). since its not in use for us it can be hooked up to another sensor in which its voltage fluctuates based on sate of the engine. you can hook it up to sonething beside the o2 sensor if you want to monitor that sensors or devices performance. its quite cool because its considered a seccond input by the afc and the afc itself does a great job or monitoring its voltage.

any other info of use tag it on. i ddint find much info on how the o2 sensor and afc could be used in conjunction besides the obviouse, external a/f meter (monitor) afc (tune) combo.

K now for some ripper vids. at WOT im at .825 so im a little rich lol. but does pull hard maybe im just so used to it i want to up the boost. Tell me what you think. Sorry for the crappy vids.

Launching
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2K09YZCYBDs

Rolling start
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYYyHKR3VNI

Afc reading. SHORT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgymBi937AU

So im giong to do some more tunning and bump it up to 10psi. what you think. going to install catch can this week. and put vpowers in. On the afc reading i just started the car and was warming up so the input 2 says .200ish..but when warmed up its at a steady .550-.600 so meaning its perfect or close enough and at 5psi its at .710 and hits .825 at 8-9psi. SO idk runs good but tell what you think.

Rendon

[89T]

Thanks man. I'm a little Confused bout the Volt reading i went by what hondatech said. my first input says 1.40 or alittle lower. yet on my second input Blue wire mod it reads .550-.600
second input is the right one.

i went back and re-read the manual i got the other info on and it was for a 0-5volt sensor. my bad. edited.
i called a buddy of mine and he said you want try to run between .750-.800
it's been awhile since i had mine installed so excuse the rust.


K now for some ripper vids. at WOT im at .825 so im a little rich lol. but does pull hard maybe im just so used to it i want to up the boost. Tell me what you think. Sorry for the crappy vids.

Launching
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2K09YZCYBDs

Rolling start
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYYyHKR3VNI

Afc reading. SHORT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgymBi937AU

So im going to do some more tunning and bump it up to 10psi. what you think. going to install catch can this week. and put vpowers in. On the afc reading i just started the car and was warming up so the input 2 says .200ish..but when warmed up its at a steady .550-.600 so meaning its perfect or close enough and at 5psi its at .710 and hits .825 at 8-9psi. SO idk runs good but tell what you think.

Rendon
Launching:

she looks like she pulls hard, but what is with the flat spot between 5200-6000 in second gear @0.12 sec
Rolling start:

she looks strong and the flat spot doesn't seem to be there now.
i am impressed on how quick it revs.

i think you need to throw a new set of plugs on and beat on it alittle then pull them and read them. you need to get you'r ignition tuned in.
you may need to pull another degree or two out and play with the gap a bit.

[Rendon LX-i]

Well do man...im at 5 degrees now so im doing play with the timming a bit. thanks man. Going to get the wideband with the income tax check.