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lostforawhile
01-25-2009, 01:30 AM
Ok it's mocked up, my air cleaners won't fit, they hit the dammed heater core hose on one side,and the brake booster on the other ,so back to the drawing board on the air cleaners,lots of work in those too. pisses me off. the manifold supports won't fit down in the engine,those were a guess anyway so no big deal to change. few hoses will have to be moved around. the main issue i'm having is the drivers side fuel bowl is too close to the master cyl. i'm trying to figure out if the piece of metal on the side of the mc is just extra casting. going to look at some more tomorrow to see if there is a different casting available. if someone has a junk one,with the same casting, can you please send it to me? i really need to cut it in half to see if i can just grind that off. still a long way to go,i have to figure out where to put the fuel pressure regulator, and lots of hoses to hook up. i need a shield over the alternator,i really don't like having a bottom drain fuel bowl over the alternator, so going to make some sort of shield or catch for the fuel bowl. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020239-3.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020241-3.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020240-2.jpg?t=1232875762

lostforawhile
01-25-2009, 01:42 AM
if someone has pictures of the side of their master cyl it would help a lot the ones i see on line don't have that blob of metal off of the side

Strugglebucket
01-25-2009, 01:53 AM
I've got a 7/8 Nissin laying around and it doesn't have the metal sticking out. The 15/16 Nissin that's in my car doesn't have it either.

Maybe you could just grind it off?

lostforawhile
01-25-2009, 08:57 AM
I've got a 7/8 Nissin laying around and it doesn't have the metal sticking out. The 15/16 Nissin that's in my car doesn't have it either.

Maybe you could just grind it off?thats what i'm thinking,but i wanted to find a scrap one like it and grind it first.

2oodoor
01-25-2009, 12:48 PM
it is good to see those on the car, WOW!

lostforawhile
01-25-2009, 01:50 PM
long way to go they are just mocked up now. my aircleaners don't fit, so looking at the volvo ones, i went and looked at another master cyl,and it doesn't have that blob of metal sticking out. i might just grind that off of mine.

lostforawhile
01-25-2009, 01:55 PM
i'm really considering moving that alternator to the front, all i need is a fuel leak into the alternator below. i wonder if i could just run a longer five rib belt. i know i can mount the alternator to the ac bracket pretty easy. i'm going to move a few an lines around too of course for clearance.

lostforawhile
01-25-2009, 05:02 PM
Ok searching for a dead alternator, going to gut it and make it an idler pulley. good alternator is going on the front. have to move the oil filter, that was the plan anyway, the plate with the throttle return springs is right behind the filter. transdapt has a kit, they make good stuff, will use it all except the rubber hoses, they get replaced with braided. makes it eaisier to install the oil cooler later anyway.

2ndGenGuy
01-25-2009, 07:18 PM
Man glad to see those on your car! Have you taken it for a spin yet?

lostforawhile
01-25-2009, 08:02 PM
Man glad to see those on your car! Have you taken it for a spin yet?

got a long way to go before then,though now that the old crap is off it will go much faster as far as completion. is a little hard to drive with no interior right now. shooting for the first tift area car show in april.

Hauntd ca3
01-25-2009, 08:37 PM
for a bit more room, should try later model su's or 150cd strombergs .
thet have the float bowl underneath them

cygnus x-1
01-25-2009, 09:13 PM
Wow! You must get those AN fittings for cheap. I would use them more if they weren't so expensive.

On the MC, the one on my Prelude doesn't have anything like that. I would bet it's safe to hack that off.

How close is the heater line? Can you just bend it over a little? Should be ok to bend it just a little as long as you get it right the fist time. Try to bend it back and it could break.

I had the transdapt kit on my Prelude for awhile but eventually decided it was more trouble than it was worth. Also had the same kit on my Nissan and the hoses were dried out and cracking after only 2 years. Took that one off too. Now the filter bases are on my Suzuki filtering diesel. Still have the filter adapters though. Not sure what to do with them as they aren't much use without the filter bases.

C|

lostforawhile
01-26-2009, 02:35 AM
Wow! You must get those AN fittings for cheap. I would use them more if they weren't so expensive.

On the MC, the one on my Prelude doesn't have anything like that. I would bet it's safe to hack that off.

How close is the heater line? Can you just bend it over a little? Should be ok to bend it just a little as long as you get it right the fist time. Try to bend it back and it could break.

I had the transdapt kit on my Prelude for awhile but eventually decided it was more trouble than it was worth. Also had the same kit on my Nissan and the hoses were dried out and cracking after only 2 years. Took that one off too. Now the filter bases are on my Suzuki filtering diesel. Still have the filter adapters though. Not sure what to do with them as they aren't much use without the filter bases.

C|
i got a lot of the AN stuff discarded over the years are various cleanups at the plant, i get a lot of lines because they expire for aircraft use, nothing wrong with them, but they have a limit in years they can be on the shelf in an airplane. plus i still have a lot of my old racing stuff left over. as far as the transdapt kit,the main problem are the hoses, i would never run a non aeroquip line in an oil system. the cheap rubber lines don't last. need to bring the oil lines up anyway for the oil thermostat for the cooler. i will get more done this weekend. i need the gaskets for the thermostat housing ,and the thermostst cover,and the water pipe. once i can bolt those in,i can do a lot of the plumbing under the manifold and the coolant bypass through it. roodoo is also going to look for that o ring for the water pipe since he's right near a dealer. it's all coming together. i looked at the master cyl at autozone and it doesn't have that piece of metal eithier. as far as switching carbs, these are the really good datsun Su's,pre emissions, these are the ones in demand. plus if i change carbs i have to change all the linkages and everything. linkages work perfectly and i really don't want to screw with them.

lostforawhile
01-26-2009, 03:23 AM
see if i could find the idler assemby and two of these pulleys off one of these, i would be all set on figuring out the alternator problem. http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/YN/D17897-OES-G6020.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=04+2004+Honda+Accord+Accessory+Belt+Idler +Pulley+OES+Genuine+Honda+Accessory+Belt+Idler+Pul ley+3.0L+V6&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base

2oodoor
01-26-2009, 04:05 AM
I got that jdm alternator you can have but too heavy $to ship,, if you are still coming this way next month you can get it with that other heavy stuff I have for you.

lostforawhile
01-26-2009, 02:06 PM
I got that jdm alternator you can have but too heavy $to ship,, if you are still coming this way next month you can get it with that other heavy stuff I have for you.does it bolt in like original? i was going to gut it, and remove everything but the shaft running through it, and the drive bearings. instant idler pulley. I have two alternators, but one is brand new,and the other is still in really good shape. i hate to destroy a good one. as far as mounting, i have it all figured out, going to do some machine work to the ac bracket, and add an adjuster arm. the factory bracket for the ac adjuster doesn't line up. should be pretty straight forward. was going to run better wiring for it anyway. i can leave the factory alternator in for a pulley until i pick up the other one. this project is getting interesting already. when i get the pan from second gen guy,i can weld on the bungs for the pcv system and put that in. cooling system gaskets are all i lack to put in all the an lines for the cooling system. want to get that water pipe and all that junk in back there before i put the manifold in permanently. right now i'm checking clearances for everything and figuring out what i need to change.

lostforawhile
01-26-2009, 02:11 PM
Wow! You must get those AN fittings for cheap. I would use them more if they weren't so expensive.

On the MC, the one on my Prelude doesn't have anything like that. I would bet it's safe to hack that off.

How close is the heater line? Can you just bend it over a little? Should be ok to bend it just a little as long as you get it right the fist time. Try to bend it back and it could break.

I had the transdapt kit on my Prelude for awhile but eventually decided it was more trouble than it was worth. Also had the same kit on my Nissan and the hoses were dried out and cracking after only 2 years. Took that one off too. Now the filter bases are on my Suzuki filtering diesel. Still have the filter adapters though. Not sure what to do with them as they aren't much use without the filter bases.

C|are you talking about the part that bypasses the oil filter on the back of the block? is it the same as the accord? i could use that part,i have the remote filter part around here somewhere. i hate to buy a kit with parts i'll never use like the rubber hoses. i have about 30 feet of -8 AN line to run the oil lines with.

lostforawhile
01-26-2009, 06:17 PM
ok it looks like a 91 civic alternator pulley matches the ac part of the crank pulley, need to clean up that bracket and do some modifications.

lostforawhile
01-26-2009, 09:33 PM
looks like for any air cleaner to clear the firewall, going to have to solder an elbow right off of the heater core outlet pipe,cut the pipe actually and have threads just beyond the rubber grommet,so i can screw in an elbow. going to be tricky but i have some serious tight clearance

2ndGenGuy
01-26-2009, 10:12 PM
The Preludes have so much more room behind the motor than the Accords. I see rjudgey's huge long intake runners with his big carbs all bolted in and I get so jealous.

cygnus x-1
01-26-2009, 10:12 PM
are you talking about the part that bypasses the oil filter on the back of the block? is it the same as the accord? i could use that part,i have the remote filter part around here somewhere. i hate to buy a kit with parts i'll never use like the rubber hoses. i have about 30 feet of -8 AN line to run the oil lines with.


Yeah, the part that screws on where the filter would normally go. The same kit fits lots of Japanese engines since many of them use the same filter base style. It will certainly fit yours. In fact I have two of them if you want both. PM me and we'll work out a deal.

C|

cygnus x-1
01-26-2009, 10:24 PM
The Preludes have so much more room behind the motor than the Accords. I see rjudgey's huge long intake runners with his big carbs all bolted in and I get so jealous.


Huh, I didn't know that. You guys have more head room though. I had to chop a hole in my hood just to fit a Weber. Then I had to cut an even bigger hole for the B18 manifold. So now I have this ghetto ass firebird style cowl scoop, chopped in half and riveted to the hood to cover up the huge hole. :hmph:

Seriously, this is one of the reasons I want to get my ITB setup working. It will fit under there without the hole so I can put on a normal looking hood again.

C|

2ndGenGuy
01-26-2009, 10:53 PM
LOL oh yeah. I think they called it the "engineless design" because they kept the hoodline low so you're like "how the heck did they get an engine in there??" Or was that the 3g Prelude... Hmmm.

lostforawhile
01-27-2009, 01:02 PM
mine has long runners but i tilted the manifold back when i designed it. you can adjust the fuel bowls apart from the carbs so they are level.

2oodoor
01-27-2009, 01:10 PM
Huh, I didn't know that. You guys have more head room though. I had to chop a hole in my hood just to fit a Weber. Then I had to cut an even bigger hole for the B18 manifold. So now I have this ghetto ass firebird style cowl scoop, chopped in half and riveted to the hood to cover up the huge hole. :hmph:

Seriously, this is one of the reasons I want to get my ITB setup working. It will fit under there without the hole so I can put on a normal looking hood again.

C|

I so want to see somebody use a mustang hood skin on a honda hood frame, they are REAL close in shape but with a riser. Several year and model mustang are in that catagory. 2006 GT is one of them I was looking at.

lostforawhile
01-27-2009, 01:14 PM
I so want to see somebody use a mustang hood skin on a honda hood frame, they are REAL close in shape but with a riser. Several year and model mustang are in that catagory. 2006 GT is one of them I was looking at.i forget what my hood scoop was off of, it it's fiberglass and took forever to get right.

lostforawhile
01-29-2009, 05:36 PM
fuel for thought?
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020261.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020262-1.jpg
this is the same bracket i had on the old manifold,i had to cut it down,then modify it to fit, i also bead blasted it,then repainted it and repolished it. there was a lot of corrosion from the fire extinguisher.

lostforawhile
01-30-2009, 08:23 PM
ok the part that holds the fittings is now permanently tig welded to the support bar,i did that then polished it in preparation for purple. also took off the breather i'm no longer using,and removed some other excess junk.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020003.jpghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020002.jpg
here's the gravity seperator for the pcv system. the drain has to be changed to a manual shutoff,because of it being under vaccume.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020008.jpg

2ndGenGuy
01-30-2009, 08:50 PM
It that a fuel pressure regulator? What's with the thingy attached to it with the wire going to it? Looks like a pressure switch??

rfiks
01-30-2009, 09:06 PM
:dunno:(confused) what am i looking at?

AccordB20A
01-30-2009, 09:15 PM
thats some technical looking stuff in that engine bay

lostforawhile
01-31-2009, 05:08 AM
It that a fuel pressure regulator? What's with the thingy attached to it with the wire going to it? Looks like a pressure switch??fuel pressure regulator it's been on the car for years,i just had to move it and modify the brackets to fit somewhere else. the SU's run at about 1.5 to 2 psi, i originally put the regulator in a long time ago in preparation for a webber setup. it's a special low pressure holley regulator. the thing on the end is the sender for the fuel pressure gauge, thats been in the car for years too,but i moved it from a door pod to the radio blankout plate. even the factory carb seemed to benefit from regulated fuel pressure. better for your needle and seats too.

lostforawhile
01-31-2009, 05:17 AM
here's the gauge,it's a norskog, had it about 5 years i believe. i had to special order it with green illumination http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020037-2.jpg

lostforawhile
01-31-2009, 05:38 AM
one of my future projects to to replace the dummy alternator with a small eaton supercharger, they run them on a lot of mini coopers and other brittish cars with SU's. since these respond directly to the amount of air going through the carb, and the fuel bowls and vents are external, they are very simple to set up for forced induction. they've been running them blown since the 60's. there is a huge amount of knowledge available on running boost with small engines and SU type carbs. the main thing is setting maximum boost at or close to redline, they don't have lag like a turbo,or all the heat problems, they produce boost anytime the engine is running in proportion to engine rpm. you have parasitic drag, but the extra power overcomes that

lostforawhile
02-08-2009, 12:55 PM
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020068-1.jpg?t=1234124607
the pcv system and filter is almost in

lostforawhile
02-08-2009, 01:11 PM
i'll go out in a bit and get a better picture

2oodoor
02-08-2009, 01:13 PM
one of my future projects to to replace the dummy alternator with a small eaton supercharger, they run them on a lot of mini coopers and other brittish cars with SU's. since these respond directly to the amount of air going through the carb, and the fuel bowls and vents are external, they are very simple to set up for forced induction. they've been running them blown since the 60's. there is a huge amount of knowledge available on running boost with small engines and SU type carbs. the main thing is setting maximum boost at or close to redline, they don't have lag like a turbo,or all the heat problems, they produce boost anytime the engine is running in proportion to engine rpm. you have parasitic drag, but the extra power overcomes that

:thumbup:
now you're sproken my lan-guage

lostforawhile
02-08-2009, 01:28 PM
here's the pcv valve, not sure if you can see it, it's right in the middle of the balance tube between the carbs. there is a 90 degree rubber bend attached to it, then to a barbed fitting which is screwed into the aluminum fitting attached to the center fuel distributor support. not sure if you can see the brackets clearly. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020070-1.jpg
and the seperator.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020071-1.jpg

lostforawhile
02-08-2009, 02:14 PM
ran across this on a british car parts site,they aren't even sure what it is but god i hope they still have it, this would be the air cleaner problem solved. http://www.sucarburetors.com/images/H4-induction-3.jpg

lostforawhile
02-08-2009, 07:20 PM
ok the oil pressure line is in, the piece at the very bottom screwed into the filter adaptor, is the piece that changes it from 1/8 bsp, which are the filter base threads,to 1/8 npt,which are standard pipe threads. it has male 1/8 bsp on one end,and female 1/8 npt on the other. this is what you need to correctly attach a pressure gauge or anything to that port. i couldn't just use a 90 degree 1/8 npt to -4 adaptor,it would have hit the block screwing it in, so i had to use an angle adaptor with pipe threads, then screw the AN adaptor into it. so three pieces instead of two. you can alsos see the back of the gravity seperator. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020074-1.jpg?t=1234149315

lostforawhile
02-08-2009, 08:25 PM
problems problems problems, there isn't enough depth for the vaccume switch with the three hoses,just broke it, and there isn't enough to screw in the temp sender. I think i'll take a hex head pipe plug and drill and tap it for the temp sender,then use that as a spacer and screw it into where the vaccume switch would have gone. then i have to figure out where to mount the vaccume switch. anyone got one around? the three hose one.

LX-incredible
02-08-2009, 10:17 PM
Damn that's nuts. Looks awesome though!

lostforawhile
02-08-2009, 10:40 PM
right now it's just a matter of how many times it has to come back off lol, there are always 50 things that have to be changed in a project like this one. just ran into a major one with the vaccume switcheds but i think i have it figured out.

AccordB20A
02-08-2009, 10:55 PM
sure looks technical under there lol

Hauntd ca3
02-10-2009, 12:41 AM
ran across this on a british car parts site,they aren't even sure what it is but god i hope they still have it, this would be the air cleaner problem solved. http://www.sucarburetors.com/images/H4-induction-3.jpg

looks like its off an mg b gt or something with a bmc b series motor

lostforawhile
02-10-2009, 08:16 AM
looks like its off an mg b gt or something with a bmc b series motor
it's too short between centers but if it's cheap enough i might cut out the center and fabricate something out of it.

lostforawhile
02-10-2009, 09:29 AM
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020076-2.jpg

lostforawhile
02-10-2009, 09:02 PM
more plumbing done, now you can see why i need to move the filter, well one of the reasons, mainly the plate for the throttle return springs sits right behind it. the pcv system is all in,other then the modifications to the pan to hook it up. and one coolant line, i ran out of 90 degree ends. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020081-1.jpg?t=1234328304

OldSkoolA20accord
02-10-2009, 09:06 PM
i pulled that part off today........

labeledsk8r
02-10-2009, 09:17 PM
just a question... why are you running high end hose on a pcv system? theres hardly and presure in there unless your like boosting 20+ psi

lostforawhile
02-10-2009, 09:26 PM
just a question... why are you running high end hose on a pcv system? theres hardly and presure in there unless your like boosting 20+ psibecause i happened to have the hoses and fittings off of a turbine that we took apart a while back, they look nice, plus i can get rid of leaky pcv hoses and i need to run them over to the gravity seperator, these hoses had turbine engine mineral oil sitting in them, which stinks and weakens the hose for pressure,but fine for vaccume. i've been collecting this stuff from discontinued projects and stuff that gets trashed when we've done plant cleanups for years, have drawers of it.

labeledsk8r
02-10-2009, 09:29 PM
because i happened to have the hoses and fittings off of a turbine that we took apart a while back, they look nice, plus i can get rid of leaky pcv hoses and i need to run them over to the gravity seperator, these hose had turbine engine mineral oil sitting in them, which stinks and weakens the hose for pressure,but fine for vaccume.

just askin, i knew you had the AN fittings just was wondering on the hose, figured normal rubber woulda suficed but you cant keep anything normal looking can ya

lostforawhile
02-10-2009, 09:32 PM
just askin, i knew you had the AN fittings just was wondering on the hose, figured normal rubber woulda suficed but you cant keep anything normal looking can yawell i had to change the box to threaded stuff anyway,because i had to turn the line sideways to run to the seperator. also i'm going to put a pickup at each end of an oil pan and get rid of the pickup where it is now, should work better, and will fix the forever hose leak between the bottom of the box and the pan. everything has to be moved around for clearance for the manifold.

lostforawhile
02-10-2009, 09:34 PM
i also have a tube with 1/4 inch thick walls that is welded through the box and threaded, it has bypass coolant that runs through it. if the box always stays nice and hot it will work better. better vaporization.

lostforawhile
02-10-2009, 09:36 PM
there's the top line going to the pcv valve, the valve is in the balance tube in the center. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020070-1.jpg

lostforawhile
02-10-2009, 11:53 PM
OK this gets interesting now, these SU's are the tuna can ones,that were never sold in the US,so no parts are available, but the datsun Z car carb internals will swap in. the only thing i need to do is find an early Z with a set,and get the float bowl covers, the needles and seats are not available for this set, but the datsun float bowl covers will swap on, then i just have to order ordinary Z car needles and seats. I think he has an old 240 in the yard here time to go look tomorrow.

lostforawhile
02-11-2009, 06:15 PM
got the how to build and power tune Su carburators book today, some people seem to think these carbs are too small, but they are 38mm , thats like having a 38/38 webber,but without the airflow restriction of the choke horn and so on. I think the slightly smaller carbs are better for the street anyway,and driveability. i'm looking to see how much air each of these carbs can flow, but i know it's a lot more then the factory can can flow,plus since there are two,they are in a better location for fuel distribution. having one carb for two cylinders is always more efficient then one central located carb with runners that aren't the same length for each port.

lostforawhile
02-15-2009, 09:53 AM
got the alternator bracket all primed and painted, I had blasted it before, i'll pull the power steering pump out tomorrow and see how everything fits as far as the alternator itself. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020102-2.jpg

lostforawhile
02-15-2009, 09:59 AM
here's one i took last night, I had put one of the velocity stacks on to see how it looked. you can also see the plate i had made for the throttle return springs, normally they go to the heat shield, but it's not needed in my application, since the exaust is nowhere near the intake. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020101-2.jpgthere's a video somewhere of making those velocity stacks, i couldn't justify the cost of ones already made. the really tall turned ones aren't that nesecesary for the street, they are mostly for sustained high rpms in racing applications, most people install them for looks. you really just need stub stacks to improve the airflow into the engine

bobafett
02-15-2009, 12:33 PM
sooo busy! :( looking forward to seeing it done and how it works out though...

lostforawhile
02-15-2009, 04:32 PM
manifold is back on again, it's just a matter of adding one line, then something else doesn't fit anymore, when i'm all done i'll take detailed pictures of all the plumbing and fittings and angles, this way it can all go back together a lot eaisier later on.

lostforawhile
02-17-2009, 07:21 PM
oki put together the piece that will hold the oil filter adaptor,this is the part that actually attaches to the filter, the other part screws on to the back of the block. part isn't polished or anything yet,just test fitted, used the old air jet controller bracket as part of it. The filter has to be moved because the throttle spring return plate prevents the filter from being unscrewed. It will be a lot eaisier to plumb the oil cooler also. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020105-3.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020104-3.jpg
you can see how close tolerances are, I used a standard aeroquip pipe thread coupler with a hex to attach this piece with a sensor, but it's too long to screw on the coolant line, have to go to a steel short pipe nipple to gain the extra 1/4 of clearance. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020106-3.jpg
on the good side, switching the float bowl tops to the Z car ones, almost cleared up the clearance problem with the master cyl. I'm going to just grind off the blob of metal on it's side, none of the others have it,so it must be extra casting material.

lostforawhile
02-17-2009, 07:29 PM
all of the extra wiring junk won't be needed, the alternator will be at the front, so it will have the wires for the plug,and a four gauge power wire,they will run across the radiator support in their own harness. the only wire that needs to run across the back of the engine,will be the temp sensor wire, the temp sender screws into the water passage at the bottom of the manifold. the oil pressure wire goes up into the cowl where the switch is located.

lostforawhile
09-09-2009, 08:21 PM
haven't updated this thread for a while, it's scattered in different threads, I'll try to put them all under links here. I'm thinking of starting a tripod page just for the carbs,a lot of pictures quit functioning back when image station went out. anyway a couple of new ones, just finished the piece that ties the vacuum lines together for the brake booster. I will get a better picture of the bracket holding it later. this brings the braided line from the bottom of the firewall up, this line ties the vacuum storage canister in the car into the system, brings the vacuum line from the brake booster check valve on the manifold over, and will tie the booster into it. I will probably change the barbed fitting to an AN adapter and run hard line closer to the booster. I can change it to rubber hose for the short run into the booster itself. I think I'm going to have to change the adel clamps holding the two lines together, it doesn't give me enough play in the lines to allow for engine movement.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/closeup.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020140-4.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020139-3.jpg

Tdurr
09-09-2009, 09:45 PM
all i gotta say it, it would suck to have to pull that motor.

lostforawhile
09-09-2009, 09:50 PM
I can actually remove the lines faster then rubber hoses and hose clamps, and each one has a specific location.

A18A
09-09-2009, 10:26 PM
:jaw:

MessyHonda
09-09-2009, 11:08 PM
yeah i hope it runs good after all the hose upgrade

Hauntd ca3
09-10-2009, 11:43 AM
all those lines make it look fairly complicated but i'm looking forward to seeing how this runs.

lostforawhile
09-10-2009, 02:12 PM
all those lines make it look fairly complicated but i'm looking forward to seeing how this runs.I am too but it's mostly a money thing right now, it will eventually be done. carbs should work well,they are a good match to this size engine. I also need to get the odyssey battery, the oil thermostat, carbs overhauled, new tires etc etc. I think If the economy hadn't tanked and I wouldn't have kept getting laid off it would have been done a long time ago. Looks like the place might close now. :sad2: the setup really isn't that complicated, it just looks that way because you are looking at a number of different systems. You have the fuel system which is pretty straightforward, fuel block to regulator to fuel block over carbs and to each carb. vent system, I used the canister again, no point in wasting gas letting it evaporate. pcv system, just like original other then adding a catch can, I changed it all to braided to stop leaks. cooling system changed most of the hoses to braided, oil system, moved the filter out of necessity, the carb return springs have to occupy the same place as the filter. It also has the cooler which I need a thermostat for to complete the circuit. there's a line going to the firewall which is the oil pressure line, it goes into a block in the cowl, this block has the warning switch and a line that feeds the gauge. lots of hidden plumbing in there. the ones I did yesterday are manifold vacuum for the brake booster ,ties to a storage tank inside of the car.

guaynabo89
09-10-2009, 06:01 PM
looks interesting lost.

definately want to see how that thing starts up.


If all else fails and you need money you can sell all those fittings and make a couple hundread bucks. :kekeke:

lostforawhile
09-11-2009, 03:14 PM
looks interesting lost.

definately want to see how that thing starts up.


If all else fails and you need money you can sell all those fittings and make a couple hundread bucks. :kekeke:
I have a lot of oddball ones i will eventually sell, but I was lucky enough to be given a lot of these, the hoses go stale as far as the FAA is concerned, so they can't be used on the airplanes, not a thing wrong with them though. will probably last another 20 years easy.

lostforawhile
09-11-2009, 07:03 PM
well here is the piece that goes right near the brake booster, the rubber hoes from the booster ties in here, this ties to the other piece i made with stainless hard line. square part is machined and the round part is Tig welded in. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020142-3.jpg?t=1252724074

lostforawhile
09-11-2009, 09:11 PM
Ok that piece is in, the clear air hose going to the booster is for mockup, anyone know where to get the original cloth covered vacuum hose stuff? All the modern rubber hoses look like crap. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020143-2.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020144-3.jpg

lostforawhile
12-03-2009, 09:11 AM
at least thats what roodoo named em, of course those who are following the SU project remember they didn't clear the brake booster, Well one went to Roodoo, the other was just sent to Texas to a member of the HAMB, it's going to be pinstriped and sent to another member ,who was burned over 70 percent of his body, he's ipinstriping several other panels too. They are all going in his hospital room to cheer this guy up. Horrible accident with a gas can. When he gets it striped i'll post pictures. It was sitting on my shelf, and I heard he was going to do some panels, so I offered to send it. quite a story behind those air cleaners. Of course I made some more just as unusual, I also sent the prototype for the ones I have now, the one i used to design the tooling. I stripped the paint first, due to it being scratched, and painted it flat black first. boy that wrinkle paint is hard to remove, bead blaster wouldn't even touch it.

lostforawhile
12-03-2009, 09:32 AM
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/2-6-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/1-6-1.jpg

as soon as he sends me pictures i'll post em

89T
12-03-2009, 09:49 AM
dude, they do look like titties!

Thats a great thing you are doing. I have allot of respect for you and the good that you do.

The world would be a great place if it had more people like you.

2drSE-i
12-03-2009, 01:41 PM
I like them, they look great lost!

w261w261
12-03-2009, 01:59 PM
I remember when I was a kid, probably about 11, and I was trying to burn down this big stump by the lake. My mother was out in a rowboat maybe 100 ft off shore. I had gone into the boat house and taken out a can of gasoline, poured it on the stump, and lit it. It of course burned really well for a minute or so, then died down. The stump was blackened, but was still there. I took a pan of some kind, filled it up with I would say a quart of gas, and pitched it at the stump. As I threw it, I noticed a small flame still working. The gas hit the stump and I remember the WHOOMP as it flashed. Suddenly, I was covered with little burning bits of gas, and my mother let out a very loud scream. Being a good Cub Scout, I rolled on the grass and put it out, with no harm.

Since I lived on the lake, I had a lot of experience with pouring gas into the outboards or the lawn mower. Typically, I would use a gallon can with an open top and a kind of broad lip, together with a funnel. I knew what gas could do, but until that day never had a real graphic example applied right on my body. I became much more respectful.

Did the gas can in question somehow explode? Or did it partially pop, opening itself up and throwing raw gas around, which then caused the problem? I've never heard of a closed container actually doing that, so it that was what happened, it would interesting to know. No disrespect to the victim of what was a horrible accident.

lostforawhile
12-03-2009, 04:20 PM
I remember when I was a kid, probably about 11, and I was trying to burn down this big stump by the lake. My mother was out in a rowboat maybe 100 ft off shore. I had gone into the boat house and taken out a can of gasoline, poured it on the stump, and lit it. It of course burned really well for a minute or so, then died down. The stump was blackened, but was still there. I took a pan of some kind, filled it up with I would say a quart of gas, and pitched it at the stump. As I threw it, I noticed a small flame still working. The gas hit the stump and I remember the WHOOMP as it flashed. Suddenly, I was covered with little burning bits of gas, and my mother let out a very loud scream. Being a good Cub Scout, I rolled on the grass and put it out, with no harm.

Since I lived on the lake, I had a lot of experience with pouring gas into the outboards or the lawn mower. Typically, I would use a gallon can with an open top and a kind of broad lip, together with a funnel. I knew what gas could do, but until that day never had a real graphic example applied right on my body. I became much more respectful.

Did the gas can in question somehow explode? Or did it partially pop, opening itself up and throwing raw gas around, which then caused the problem? I've never heard of a closed container actually doing that, so it that was what happened, it would interesting to know. No disrespect to the victim of what was a horrible accident.

this is exactly what happened, he was burning something and thought it went out, in reality a pool of gas had formed in the bottom of the fire pit, it ignited and ignited the gas in his hand, he got hit with about a gallon of flaming gas, he jumped over his fence on fire, and into the neighbors pool. he has had three large skin grafts so far, and he was just turned over for more of them. he's on a ventilator, and had to have main line Iv's in his femoral arteries, due to the damage to his arms. NEVER BURN WITH GAS!! use lighter fluid, or use kerosene, it doesn't flash like gas.

lostforawhile
12-03-2009, 05:39 PM
dude, they do look like titties!

Thats a great thing you are doing. I have allot of respect for you and the good that you do.

The world would be a great place if it had more people like you.It's the least I could do, I mean they were on my shelf as car ornaments, If they can cheer this guy up a bit, then he's welcome to it. I've had relatives burned before, and it's a horrible thing, he's doing better then the doctors expected now. All of us being car enthusiasts, work with gas much more then the average person, this could have been anyone on here instead of him, This was a burning accident, but could have happened as easy working on his fuel system. Be careful out there.

lostforawhile
12-03-2009, 05:44 PM
I remember when I was a kid, probably about 11, and I was trying to burn down this big stump by the lake. My mother was out in a rowboat maybe 100 ft off shore. I had gone into the boat house and taken out a can of gasoline, poured it on the stump, and lit it. It of course burned really well for a minute or so, then died down. The stump was blackened, but was still there. I took a pan of some kind, filled it up with I would say a quart of gas, and pitched it at the stump. As I threw it, I noticed a small flame still working. The gas hit the stump and I remember the WHOOMP as it flashed. Suddenly, I was covered with little burning bits of gas, and my mother let out a very loud scream. Being a good Cub Scout, I rolled on the grass and put it out, with no harm.

Since I lived on the lake, I had a lot of experience with pouring gas into the outboards or the lawn mower. Typically, I would use a gallon can with an open top and a kind of broad lip, together with a funnel. I knew what gas could do, but until that day never had a real graphic example applied right on my body. I became much more respectful.

Did the gas can in question somehow explode? Or did it partially pop, opening itself up and throwing raw gas around, which then caused the problem? I've never heard of a closed container actually doing that, so it that was what happened, it would interesting to know. No disrespect to the victim of what was a horrible accident.I answered in the post a couple of posts down, I've very glad this didn't happen to you, it was the exact same situation, what was different, was the gas had pooled in the bottom of the fire pit, when he went to put some more gas on, the fumes ignited, causing an explosion that blew all the pooled gas all over him. it also ignited the fumes from the open can in his hand. he thought it had gone out, gas is just way too dangerous to burn with. A bottle of charcoal lighter fluid isn't that much, and will probably light a fire better.

Civic Accord Honda
12-03-2009, 07:20 PM
That's a very kind thing to do,
One of my friends on cb7tuner got his leg and arm burned pretty bad trying to put out a fire in his kitchen had to have bed rest for several months after he got out of the hospital.

lostforawhile
12-05-2009, 11:55 AM
i'm still waiting for pictures, it made it to him safely, and he was almost finished with it a couple of days ago. here's his site http://pinstripingbychandler.blogspot.com/2008/12/guitar.html

Importordomestic
12-16-2009, 09:03 AM
any updates?

lostforawhile
12-16-2009, 10:08 AM
any updates?

i've been working on it a little at a time, i've been laid off so i haven't been able to do a lot.

Importordomestic
12-16-2009, 11:49 AM
ah man sry to hear. i know about long projects, keep the dream and finish when you can.

2oodoor
12-16-2009, 12:14 PM
I wish moral support could get things done then you would have been moving on to the next project well by now :D
I am still excited about seeing this one going .

2ndGenGuy
12-16-2009, 01:21 PM
What do you have left to do to get it running? You have the carbs on the car don't you?

lostforawhile
12-16-2009, 02:47 PM
What do you have left to do to get it running? You have the carbs on the car don't you?
yea but they need to be rebuilt yet and it takes a specialty re builder, plus i have to finish the car wiring which i'm working on, waiting on the used carpet to get here, find two more matching wheels get tires,battery etc. still a lot of work i've been sick so it's not been easy.

2oodoor
12-16-2009, 04:24 PM
I would definately look into just what is needed to refurbish those myself, since this seems to be a major obstacle with multiple steps involving losing possesion of them even though temporary.

lostforawhile
12-16-2009, 05:42 PM
I would definately look into just what is needed to refurbish those myself, since this seems to be a major obstacle with multiple steps involving losing possesion of them even though temporary.They need to have the throttle shafts replaced, i can have them done at Z therapy out in California, they are the specialists in these. these are the JDM only ones from the Datsun 510 sss, so they don't share a lot of parts with the domestic ones, I did find a set of fuel bowls and tops from a 240 z , they interchange right up, this replaces the impossible to find floats and needle valves. Z stuff is pretty popular. If anything happens to them I can always swap with early Z stuff, but they are expensive. the manifolds aren't going anywhere. It's worth the money to have then put in the roller bearings shafts,because it solves a lot of common problems.

A20A1
12-16-2009, 07:38 PM
... even the factory carb seemed to benefit from regulated fuel pressure. better for your needle and seats too.

I can also vouch for that one.


I love the idea of the alternator up front, more from an ease of access standpoint of course.

lostforawhile
12-16-2009, 08:07 PM
I can also vouch for that one.


I love the idea of the alternator up front, more from an ease of access standpoint of course.
yea i'm waiting on someone to send me an alternator pulley from a 91 civic so i can finish that up. I've been trying to find one for six months

lostforawhile
12-16-2009, 08:58 PM
I'm going to take the manifold all apart this week and finish some porting and cleaning. I'm probably going to paint it with that aircraft primer green and a lot of black and polished around it. Since the car is aircraft themed anyway, i saw an aircraft engine like that and it looked killer.

lostforawhile
12-16-2009, 11:36 PM
latest pictures
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020260-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020261-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020262-2.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020264-1.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020266.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020268.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020273.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020275.jpg

carotman
12-17-2009, 06:22 AM
There 's a lot of work involved in this!

2oodoor
12-22-2009, 12:18 PM
... im still holding the other tittie :)

lostforawhile
12-22-2009, 01:51 PM
... im still holding the other tittie :) i'm still waiting on the pictures:)

2oodoor
12-23-2009, 05:48 AM
i'm still waiting on the pictures:)

oh your asking for it.. lol

lostforawhile
12-23-2009, 09:13 AM
oh your asking for it.. lol
wait......................that didn't come out right

lostforawhile
03-15-2010, 02:27 AM
I'm really sorry this isn't on the road and running, life is really screwed right now, and I simply haven't had any time or money to work on it is all. latest picture though. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021135.jpg

lostforawhile
05-13-2010, 10:02 PM
updated picture

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021342.jpg?t=1273816210

Nafs Asdf
05-13-2010, 10:51 PM
That's some mad scientist stuff right there :D

That bay needs a wash real bad tho.

lostforawhile
05-14-2010, 11:13 AM
engine bay will get a repaint, it's still being all mocked up. I 've just had huge delays due to stuff going on at home.

lostforawhile
05-28-2010, 06:53 PM
Finally an update!!

I have the front section off of the manifold, working on a coupe of things, first is the left hand side support for the manifold.

first a template has to be made from cardboard,
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021397.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021398.jpg
the bracket off of two of the studs holding on the other manifold section,it's not bent exactly to the correct angle yet, the piece is made out of aluminum at the moment, the aluminum is the template, when it's right, i will copy it out of 1/4 inch steel.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021402.jpg
other piece of bracket that will screw into the top of the alternator adjusting plate
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021403.jpg
the problem with the manifold, was the two center ports had aluminum in the way of the port, the side ports were fine, after quite a bit of porting and a lot of 60 grit flap wheels this is the result.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021399.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021400.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021401.jpg

lostforawhile
05-28-2010, 08:02 PM
painting the front section of the manifold now, and it's individual pieces

lostforawhile
05-28-2010, 11:48 PM
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021407.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021406.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021408.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021409.jpg

lostforawhile
05-30-2010, 10:18 AM
I need to figure out the support on the other side yet, and i need to grind the glob of casting aluminum off of the side of the master cyl.

guaynabo89
05-30-2010, 12:18 PM
question......why did you paint it that old machine green?

lostforawhile
05-30-2010, 12:22 PM
question......why did you paint it that old machine green?
well I kind of like the color and the contrast, when it's all put together it looks like an aircraft engine with all the AN stuff, so I used an olive paint because it looks like primer.it has self etch primer on the bare aluminum, but the paint also looks like it. everything under the hood is all function, so the primer look kind of goes with that theme

guaynabo89
05-30-2010, 12:24 PM
I figured you would have done the purple inodized look yo matcch ur brackets

lostforawhile
05-30-2010, 12:30 PM
I figured you would have done the purple inodized look yo matcch ur brackets
there will be some purple pieces, the brackets are purple and the power steering reservoir is purple, plus some other pieces, i'm using the purple as an accent. I think with all the AN lines back on the carb it will look good, I'm blasting and painting the other part of the manifold Monday or Tuesday. then I can see how it all looks together. I'm going to paint the firewall to clean it all up too, i need to remove the pedal assembly to put in my pedals, so at the same time i'll clean up the brake booster and paint that area. . http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021127.jpg?t=1275251260

lostforawhile
05-30-2010, 12:39 PM
you can see the blob on the side of the master cyl, no other one I've seen has that, I think it's just a gate from casting that got left on. that's the one that's too close to the fuel bowl. you can slso see my solid torque mount, the back is a really stiff urethane material,so the engine rocks very little. it really does make a difference, and it's not that much vibration into the car. I think one of the things that wears the motor mounts on these cars,is having a bad torque mount, if the engine rocks a lot, it wears the mounts faster. I'm going to do the urethane mounts like in the thread anyway, and get rid of the mushy mounts.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021409.jpg

lostforawhile
05-31-2010, 08:47 PM
I got the right side support figured out, you can just see the bracket on the bottom of the manifold to the far left
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021415.jpg
I made the bottom part of the support link from pieces I got from a discarded quad, the rusty thing is the lower bracket for the tie rod, bolted to the motor mount, the part attached to the engine. I need to remove it and paint it. These small tie rod ends come in handy, I got the entire suspension out of a dumpster.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021413.jpg
this is the link, it goes from the mount on the motor mount to a rod end on the side of the manifold., The bolt still needs to be welded into the tube on the tie rod end
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021412.jpg

lostforawhile
06-01-2010, 04:53 PM
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021417.jpg

this is a relief to have this piece done, I wasn't sure how I was going to support the right side of the manifold but it's done

lostforawhile
06-06-2010, 08:36 PM
some updates, I may have solved the clearance problem on the spring plate, you can see in the first picture how the spring plate in the middle is hitting the oil hoses
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021424.jpg
sometimes low tech tools work best, i just used my small belt sander to round out the center of the plate between the bolts, i thought I had a picture, I guess not, this is the plate before sanding anyway.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021426.jpg
I'm still having problems with the oil pressure hose being in the way, but that should be an easy fix.
the other issue was the bracket that supports the manifold, I ended up removing the spacer, and sanding down the back of the bracket to clear the runners
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021436.jpg
you can see the welded in threaded piece that the bracket bolts to
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021435.jpg
and the support itself
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021434.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021428.jpg
you can tell my age by the fact I just installed a genuine 70's swag light in my garage
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021433.jpg

lostforawhile
06-10-2010, 08:16 PM
A mini how to in the middle of the thread, I already had the location of the studs I needed cleearance over, but I needed the exact location of the two threaded 1/4 inch holes in the manifold plate.

first masking tape over the holes
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021453.jpg
now a tapered punch to punch out each threaded hole location
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021454.jpg
next, i applied hot glue to the manifold plate,over the tape from earlier, then slipped the bracket over the studs and into the glue, after setting up, the entire thing comes up, bracket,glue,tape, etc. now you have these two sprues in the exact location of the threaded holes.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021457.jpg
now with a razor blade,shave off the sprues, and you have two round holes where the threaded holes arel
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021458.jpg?t=1276229564
with a good center punch,punch the center of each hole and spot drill.http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021461.jpg?t=1276229653
now drill your hole and be done, finally go inside and drink something cold
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021460.jpg

lostforawhile
06-14-2010, 07:06 PM
an update, I almost have the drivers side bracket right, i had to do more grinding, then the clearance holes for the stud,were too close to the edge, this weakened the steel too much, I welded a heavy washer over that area and ground off most of the top
this is without the washer
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021468.jpg
this was with the two round pieces welded on, they didn't work, they were just tacked, so i just had to grind off one weld on each and break them off.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021469.jpg
this is with the heavy washer welded in to strengthen that bend
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021472.jpg
this is the passenger side with the support using rod ends
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021473.jpg
the angle still isn't right
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021474.jpg
repaired with a special precision tool, a BFH, it's still hitting the alternator bracket though, needs more grinding,which will make it too thin, so it will need more steel welded on.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021475.jpg

Lil Mike
06-15-2010, 07:41 AM
i never ever understand what your doing in these pics, your car is super duper mind boggling.

lostforawhile
06-15-2010, 08:29 AM
i never ever understand what your doing in these pics, your car is super duper mind boggling.
I'm making the manifold support brackets, they take stress off of the welds in the front piece of the manifold. the piece of the manifold bolted at the back is one piece, so it's not as stressed. they do the same thing as the manifold brackets did on the original manifold, I just can't use those due to clearance issues, and the manifold being so different

lostforawhile
06-21-2010, 01:47 PM
It looks like I'll be getting that set of 69 Z SU's, they are supposed to be in really good condition, they will bolt right to the manifold and linkages. After many different pieces , I finally have the drivers side manifold support right, I made it out of cardboard, punched holes in it, checked the fit, then transferred to steel. you use hot glue to glue the cardboard template right to the steel before cutting it. The good band saw is missing a tooth, So I had to cut it out on the old clunker, then finish it on the sander.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021480.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021479.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021482.jpg

this is one of the test pieces, it's been cut and welded about 20 times until it was right, then I used it to make the final pattern.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021481.jpg

lostforawhile
06-21-2010, 03:01 PM
I had to do a bit of grinding on the clearance for the stud, but it all fits now,

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021484.jpg
all I have to do is mill some material off of the bracket that bolts to the plate for the alternator, so it tilts about five degrees. once I do that, i can drill holes in the bracket, and drill and tap holes in the aluminum bracket. I still need to make a center support at the back of the manifold

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021485.jpg

lostforawhile
06-22-2010, 05:21 AM
I have the left and right side supports I still want to add one in the center, due to the length of the manifold, the welds on the center plate are all the way through 7/16 plate, so i'm not worried about it, but I am worried about the stress over time, it's going to be a challenge due to the spring plate.for the throttle return springs in the middle, and the oil lines.

lostforawhile
06-23-2010, 07:25 PM
tomorrow I may just pull that oil pan and make sure my baffle clears everything , and hook up these hoses for the pcv system. i need to buy some play dough and use it to check crank to baffle clearance. new pan needs to go on, then torqued, then untorqued, then the play dough marks get checked for clearance between the crank and baffle screen,

2oodoor
06-24-2010, 10:27 AM
:thumbup: progress !!

MessyHonda
06-24-2010, 10:44 AM
i dont get why you are making a bracket for the intake manifold...studs are STRONG...the way i took out my engine was taking off the manifold and putting a chain on the intake stud and cherry picked it out....thoes carbs are not that heavy that it needs support...i can stand on my manifold and say it wont break.

lostforawhile
06-24-2010, 11:18 AM
i dont get why you are making a bracket for the intake manifold...studs are STRONG...the way i took out my engine was taking off the manifold and putting a chain on the intake stud and cherry picked it out....thoes carbs are not that heavy that it needs support...i can stand on my manifold and say it wont break.

because there is a short piece off of the head, that has the second part of the manifold attached to it, the plate that attaches the second half,is welded to the section of factory manifold. this is a LONG manifold, all that flexing is hard on the welds over time. this protects the welds.

lostforawhile
06-24-2010, 11:22 AM
this is the front piece of the manifold, it's these welds that I need to protect. they are full penetration through the plate, but this is a little extra security. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021409.jpg

gp02a0083
06-25-2010, 11:47 AM
i really think your worrying about the welds too much , if you correctly welded it in then it shouldn't be a problem.

lostforawhile
06-25-2010, 12:03 PM
i really think your worrying about the welds too much , if you correctly welded it in then it shouldn't be a problem.

I sent them up to my stepbrothers company in Atlanta, I don't have the gear here to do those, took an 800 amp tig torch to do those, the brackets are done, just some extra security.

MessyHonda
06-25-2010, 09:43 PM
welds are fine....look at my paseshitters they are tack weled and they have lasted long...i love my headers...gained me 3whp and lots of top end with one simple mod...

gp02a0083
06-26-2010, 04:46 AM
ah you forgot to mention it was tig'd , or i wasn't paying attention. I havent had much time on a tig welder, i mainly use mig w/ argon and stick for the junk i don't care about. The only thing i would have suggested and it probably would be un-necessary is a bracket from the one end of the manifold to the other. I still think that as long as everything is torq'd up correctly and the welds are fine it shouldn't be a problem.

lostforawhile
06-26-2010, 07:46 AM
ah you forgot to mention it was tig'd , or i wasn't paying attention. I havent had much time on a tig welder, i mainly use mig w/ argon and stick for the junk i don't care about. The only thing i would have suggested and it probably would be un-necessary is a bracket from the one end of the manifold to the other. I still think that as long as everything is torq'd up correctly and the welds are fine it shouldn't be a problem.
I originally was going to run a bracket from left to right across the bottom of the manifold, but I can't due to clearance issues, so I ended up with a rod end linkage on one side, and a solid steel bracket on the other, it all fits though. the other thing that concerns me, is on the datsun manifold, there are stud holes on the top, but the bottom uses washers to hold the manifold to the head, in it's original form, the exhaust manifold would be siamesed to the intake,with a heat shield in between. think early civic. the plate welded to the factory piece of the manifold has studs on it now, and special heavy aluminum washers hold the bottom of the datsun manifold to it. I may change to steel later.

gp02a0083
06-26-2010, 12:19 PM
yah id switch to the steel ones, they probably wont give you any issues , the aluminum will have a different expansion coeff.

lostforawhile
06-26-2010, 12:35 PM
yah id switch to the steel ones, they probably wont give you any issues , the aluminum will have a different expansion coeff.

well it's aluminum on aluminum, there's a plate tig welded to the piece of factory manifold with studs on it, it's the gasket surface for the Datsun manifold. so everything should have the same expansion rate.

gp02a0083
06-26-2010, 12:44 PM
ah i was under the assumption that it was steel

lostforawhile
06-26-2010, 01:22 PM
ah i was under the assumption that it was steel
it' s aluminum i'm supposed to be having a pair of 69 z carbs that are in good shape coming, they will bolt right up, same linkage and everything

gp02a0083
06-26-2010, 02:28 PM
69's huh, pretty rare , if i remember right the Z's 240z ran from 70-73, with the 69 432's

lostforawhile
06-26-2010, 03:38 PM
69's huh, pretty rare , if i remember right the Z's 240z ran from 70-73, with the 69 432's

it may be a 70, they introduced the new models in 69 as 70's, it's hard to tell them apart anyway, one of the main things are the shape of the domes, and how many screws hold on the dome, they are definitely very early from what I can tell, and they don't have any of the emissions that caused so many problems later on.

gp02a0083
06-26-2010, 09:13 PM
even if its from a "true" 69 its still considered a 70 because of the production date. I think Nissan (datsun at the time) introduced the model well after the 1st quarter of the calender year.

lostforawhile
06-26-2010, 09:15 PM
even if its from a "true" 69 its still considered a 70 because of the production date. I think Nissan (datsun at the time) introduced the model well after the 1st quarter of the calender year.

I just hope they are in as good of a shape as they say, it's a lot easier to get usdm datsun carb parts, then the jdm parts

lostforawhile
03-11-2011, 05:34 PM
I had found a Datsun original air cleaner base and THOUGHT it would match my carbs, wrong!! I wanted the factory velocity stacks and mounting bases off of it, it turns out after all this work the holes didn't line up, I fixed that, but more on that in a few minutes, I have no idea what they made this air cleaner out of, but it's just sheet metal right? again wrong, I don't know if they hardened it, or it's still radioactive from WW2, but I'm having a horrible time cutting the stuff, it cuts strange, machines strange, and welds strange, It might be 409 stainless, it looks like regular steel. whatever it is, it's some tough stuff,

this is what I started with,

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/aug262009download367.jpg

and then removed the parts I wanted

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/aug262009download369.jpg

after a lot of cutting, and grinding, sanding, cussing, etc, I ended up with two of these, since the holes don't line up, I'll turn then 90 degrees on the base plates, before welding them on, then they will get the mounting holes, and piston air passage holes drilled.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/aug262009download383.jpg

and I end up with one of these, there are a lot more then a single weld, I just had to add one after it was blasted

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/Copyofaug262009download384.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/aug262009download386.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/Copyofaug262009download385.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/Copyofaug262009download387.jpg

these were the original velocity stacks I had made

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/aug262009download388.jpg

this is how I formed the screen

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/Copyofaug262009download389.jpg

I'll be going into this in much more detail, I still have one more of these bastards to make. I will take a lot more pictures of all the steps during the next one