Need help. lost power (volts)

[knifemind]

So i am picking up my clothes at the laundrymat, and I come out about three minutes later, and I turn the key and nothing happens. Nothing.

I check the obvious like fuses & battery connections. All good. I walk home & pick up my neighbor & my multimeter. I quickly took apart the steering column cover & pull the switch, and I'm not getting any juice to the ignition switch (.22 volts on two terminals), however my fog lights are getting power and they should only be on if my parking lights are on (which they are not). There were a couple of short moments where when I was fiddling around and had the switch on, the dash lights & heater came on for a split second.

For reference, it's an 88 dx. webered, msd, viper alarm, full stereo.

Were do I go from here?

[w261w261]

When you say the "fog lights are getting power," do you mean they are lighting strongly? With no power to the ignition switch, do you mean that there's no power coming into the switch? Can you hear the starter solenoid clicking?

Maybe take off the battery connections and make sure they're nice and clean. I assume you've checked the battery and it's at 12v? Shine a flashlight down and look at the main ground connection. One thing I've noticed on my Accord and also on a '92 SVX I have, is that the original (+) battery connection is slightly too big, meaning that even with the nut tightened down all the way the connection was not tight. I had to tap a small nail down in there before I could tighten it enough to work. Maybe they made larger battery posts in the old(er) days.

[lostforawhile]

When you say the "fog lights are getting power," do you mean they are lighting strongly? With no power to the ignition switch, do you mean that there's no power coming into the switch? Can you hear the starter solenoid clicking?

Maybe take off the battery connections and make sure they're nice and clean. I assume you've checked the battery and it's at 12v? Shine a flashlight down and look at the main ground connection. One thing I've noticed on my Accord and also on a '92 SVX I have, is that the original (+) battery connection is slightly too big, meaning that even with the nut tightened down all the way the connection was not tight. I had to tap a small nail down in there before I could tighten it enough to work. Maybe they made larger battery posts in the old(er) days.
if you play with the switch, and they come on for a second it's the switch,it comes off of the back of the key part. this happens all the time the switch contacts go bad with time.

[knifemind]

Yes, the fogs are strongly lit. they function like normal, except for the fact they should be off. The battery is fine, and when hooked up, all the under hood fused show 12v on both ends. I checked my chilton and found that the black/white wire in the ignition switch is what comes from the battery, through the starter solenoid and into everything else. it has no juice. I jumped 12v straight into this wire, and turn switch to 'on' , my instrument lights come on, and I can hear 'something' in the engine compartment... a relay or the solenoid perhaps? but if i turn the key to the next position everything shuts down and will not come back unless i disconnect and reattach the battery.

[Oldblueaccord]

I would pull the fuses for the fogs and some of the other added in stuff and see if it will start. It sounds like a few bad wires somewhere. Check you ground at the valve cover and any other main connections you can find.


wp

[knifemind]

Pulled stereo & fog fuses, & even disconnected the fog light connector.

no real change, although my headlights came on when I moved my hood prop (they were in the on position) I turned them off ( i cant get them to come back on, either).. i get the instrument lights (the red ones for battery, oil, etc like normal when in acc key position, but as soon as i turn the switch, everything quits, and wont come back until i remove & replace battery. I don't know where the viper is mounted, but I will try disconnecting it tomorrow.
Fuck, i am so frustrated; it's dark and I cant feel my fingers.

[Hauntd ca3]

dont tell me you have one of those wanky viper alarms.
thats prob the prob
throw the thing away and wire up a hidden solenoid cut out switch .
thats what i plan on doing
i mean if someone wants to break in to your car, they'll do it regardless
insurance will replace a stereo, but make it as hard as you can to hotwire and steal

[Dr_Snooz]

dont tell me you have one of those wanky viper alarms.
thats prob the prob
throw the thing away and wire up a hidden solenoid cut out switch .
thats what i plan on doing
i mean if someone wants to break in to your car, they'll do it regardless
insurance will replace a stereo, but make it as hard as you can to hotwire and steal

Second that.

[knifemind]

It was with the car when purchased. I should just have to find the box & disconnect it, right?

[Hauntd ca3]

yeah, most you can just unplug and the car will start again
but if it has a starter or fuel pump relay added in, you'll have to by pass those

[lostforawhile]

Kiptain, I can't get ya power, someone left the headlights on and the stereo running, I need more dilithium crystals for the flux capacitor!!
http://www.syti.net/Kiosque/Images/StarTrek_Scotty.jpg

[knifemind]

If you're going to make funnies, you could at least try to be useful, too.

I pulled the alarm, and there is no change.

[lostforawhile]

If you're going to make funnies, you could at least try to be useful, too.

I pulled the alarm, and there is no change.we are trying to help you. is there a relay in line somewhere between the power coming into the switch and the switch? if you disconnect the battery and it resets sounds like an alarm thing. pulling the alarm won't help if theres a hidden relay somewhere.

[knifemind]

There was a relay spliced into the ignition switch, and i pulled that , too.

Buuuut

Problem fixed.

I discovered the main ground off the battery was faulty. I was putting the neg terminal on, and i could hear the headlight relays clicking. I kept twisting it, and they went down (because they were off) This led to the realization that it was in fact ground related. The primary ground looked fine, but when i removed it, the underside was badly rusted.

Thanks for all your input guys, i really do appreciate it.

Jury duty, here I come :) (that's why it was important to be back on the road by tomorrow)