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nfs480
03-14-2009, 07:11 PM
Today after draining the oil from the pan for an oil change I put the bolt back in and it screwed in just as usual until the washer touched the pan, then it just kept spinning forever. I tried it with a different bolt and the same thing happened. How screwed am I?

Pico
03-14-2009, 07:17 PM
Today after draining the oil from the pan for an oil change I put the bolt back in and it screwed in just as usual until the washer touched the pan, then it just kept spinning forever. I tried it with a different bolt and the same thing happened. How screwed am I?

you can try and see if you can get a oversize drain plug thats used for stripped threads, or one of those expandable rubber drain plugs. In both cases I'd use it as a temporary fix.
My pan was stripped on mine when I first got the car and it was so FUBAR'D that neither one helped.

nfs480
03-14-2009, 07:18 PM
Yeah, I think I might just replace the oil pan. $137 is pretty painful sounding though. :(

Pico
03-14-2009, 07:26 PM
Yeah, I think I might just replace the oil pan. $137 is pretty painful sounding though. :(

OEM or aftermarket?
I paid around 70.00 for mine a few years ago

mephi
03-14-2009, 08:31 PM
They guys that owned my car before me had a rubber stopper in there. Just replace the pan, save yourself the hassle. I just took the one off of my donor car.

nfs480
03-14-2009, 08:34 PM
OEM or aftermarket?
I paid around 70.00 for mine a few years ago

OEM from Majestic Honda. BTW, how long would it take and how difficult would it be to replace myself?

Pico
03-14-2009, 08:41 PM
OEM from Majestic Honda. BTW, how long would it take and how difficult would it be to replace myself?

took me a few hours when I did it, being that I've never done one before.
just take your time and dont rush thru it and no silicone sealer on the gasket, will cause the gasket to squeeze out. Had to redo mine the next day after I noticed smoke and oil all over the bottom.

nfs480
03-14-2009, 09:41 PM
Ok, I was reading through the procedure on the autozone website and was wondering how difficult is it to remove the exhaust and crossmember below the oil pan? Remember i'm in MN which means lots of rust and corrosion!

88Accord-DX
03-14-2009, 09:46 PM
You'll need to bust the exhaust lose at the downpipe & at the first joint which I believe would be at the catalytic converter, just need to replace them gaskets. Also, there is a trick with holding the gasket to the pan, use twisty ties off bread bag & tie it down on all 4 corners. After you get all the bolts started snip them off.
I don't know if you just want the OEM oil pan, but their cheaper off ebay.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/?from=R40&satitle=89+accord+oil+pan

nfs480
03-14-2009, 10:05 PM
I'm assuming by "bust it loose" i'll be removing a few bolts at each end and it should just come off and then I use new gaskets when i rebolt it on at both ends?

88Accord-DX
03-14-2009, 10:13 PM
Right. The gaskets might be ok to re-use, if they don't split or seperate. Better to just replace them. There is a couple of bolts that hold the exhaust to a bracket on the back of the engine. The bolts at the catalytic converter need to be soaked in PB Baster for a couple of hours, cause more than likely they will break & need to be replaced with new bolts.

Demon1024
03-14-2009, 10:17 PM
this is not too easy man. it's very straight forward but, not easy.
the exhaust is the first fun part, especially when rust is involved.
then the lower crossmember has to come out. meaning you have to support the engine with a hoist if you want to be safe.
you have to take the clutch cover off(5-speed) , and the bolts on the pan are still hard to get to
Not trying to be a downer, but i'd rather let you know what your getting into.
Just make sure you have a full tool set and a good torque wrench handy

nfs480
03-14-2009, 10:21 PM
this is not too easy man. it's very straight forward but, not easy.
the exhaust is the first fun part, especially when rust is involved.
then the lower crossmember has to come out. meaning you have to support the engine with a hoist if you want to be safe.
you have to take the clutch cover off(5-speed) , and the bolts on the pan are still hard to get to
Not trying to be a downer, but i'd rather let you know what your getting into.
Just make sure you have a full tool set and a good torque wrench handy

I really appreciate it. I'm trying to decide whether to do it myself or have my mechanic do it and input like this really helps with that decision.

88Accord-DX
03-14-2009, 10:24 PM
then the lower crossmember has to come out. meaning you have to support the engine with a hoist if you want to be safe.

I've pulled that crossmember out way to many times & the engine was fine, it still has 3 mounts holding the engine up. Never had any worries about the engine falling out.

And yes, it is a pain to do this job. But it is possible with a little patience.

Civic Accord Honda
03-14-2009, 10:30 PM
i say just unbolt the the downpipe from the header and the 2 bolts holding the down pipe on by the oil pan then unhook the rubber hangers to the exhuast and just drop the whole exhuast down(very easy this way) so you dont need to mess with the nasty cat bolts,
just soak the shit out of the header to down pipe bolts with pb blaster before u even try to remove them!!i broke 2 socket extentions trying to get that bitch off

Rendon LX-i
03-14-2009, 10:42 PM
Like everyone else saying unbolt the down pipe.Take if off if its in the way. Remove the idk what its call bar thats from the crossmember accross the tranny and to firewall. Remove Flywheel cover then start to loosen all the pan bolts have a flat head in handly just dont groove the block. Anywho. same as you take it off put it back on. MAKE sure you tighten the bolts to specs. Dont use gasket maker or sealant if so ONLY on the Crank part meaning the u shape area "U::::U". ONLY on the TIPS not the whole U .hope i helped

Pico
03-14-2009, 10:57 PM
like rendon said, tighten to specs and silicone only on the U part of the gaskets.
And use twisty ties to hold the gasket in place like 88Accord-DX said.
This is what my gasket looked like after rushing on it and over torquing the bolts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/picopop/FUBARPanGasket4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/picopop/FUBARPanGasket2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/picopop/FUBARPanGasket1.jpg

Rendon LX-i
03-14-2009, 11:09 PM
Damn pico. you really tighten those didnt your lol. I over tighten mine but its not to the point where im leaking a shit load. going to get it replace soon thou i have couple of dots on my carboard in my garage every time i park her. So just make SURE. if you dont have a torque wrench get one. 9 Ft-Lbs bro. and tighten then in order here

13-9-5-1-3-7-11
17 15

18 16
14-10-6-2-4-8-12

Theres the order. so 1 then 2 and so on at 9 ft-lbs. K lol

The 17,18 are the left side U parts and the 15,16 are the right side U parts. So left is timing belt and right is tranny. k

mephi
03-14-2009, 11:17 PM
like rendon said, tighten to specs and silicone only on the U part of the gaskets.
And use twisty ties to hold the gasket in place like 88Accord-DX said.
This is what my gasket looked like after rushing on it and over torquing the bolts



That's why these are my two favorite tools...The IR for obvious reasons, but I really hate breaking things by tightening them down too much.

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll171/luke_kl/03-15-09_0008.jpg

Almost forgot...You NEED a torque wrench...both an inch pound and a foot pound. The calibrated elbow only works under some conditions.

Demon1024
03-16-2009, 09:08 PM
I've pulled that crossmember out way to many times & the engine was fine, it still has 3 mounts holding the engine up. Never had any worries about the engine falling out.




I worry.
you never know when one of those (or more) things has a crack just waiting for a chance to break free.Considering when i did it i was on the ground with my head/chest under the motor i made dam sure it wasnt moving.
Of course i had a friend descriptively tell me of a dream he had of a car falling on me once and have never been the same under a car.
jack stand, then wood blocks, then jack just a hair under the car to be sure

lostforawhile
03-17-2009, 04:07 PM
the best way to put that gasket on is by getting some permatex gasket adhesive, when the pan is off clean the shit out of it, I mean with solvent,then use the permatex gasket adhesive to glue the gasket to the pan, use some bolts to make sure the stud holes stay lines up. it takes a while to set. this keeps the gasket from shifting while you install it. the adhesive is not an rtv, or a sealer, it's designed to keep the gasket from moving around. also how soon do you need this pan? i'll be putting on a pan i modified soon,so i'll have the stock pan left if you really need it.

w261w261
03-17-2009, 06:12 PM
I put replacing the oil pan in the "don't fix it unless it's REALLY broke" category. And, if you don't get the gasketing done right, then there's the leaks to have to deal with and the possibility of a do-over.

Isn't there a way to weld a nut or something over the hole to give you some more threads? There has to be a way instead of taking the whole pan off.

lostforawhile
03-17-2009, 06:38 PM
I put replacing the oil pan in the "don't fix it unless it's REALLY broke" category. And, if you don't get the gasketing done right, then there's the leaks to have to deal with and the possibility of a do-over.

Isn't there a way to weld a nut or something over the hole to give you some more threads? There has to be a way instead of taking the whole pan off.it's not that hard to take off, only proper repair is to take it off and weld a bung on there. there are other things you can do, but how important is your oil? if you take your time and do it right,it's not going to leak.

MessyHonda
03-18-2009, 09:57 PM
yeah just save up and spend the money on a new one

lostforawhile
03-19-2009, 01:14 AM
yeah just save up and spend the money on a new onewell if you take the pan off it's not hard to fix off of the car. and a lot cheaper then a replacment. let me know on if you need this pan, it doesn't leak. if you need it i'll have to take the time to pull it off my engine and ship it. i need to get it pulled anyway so i can put my other one on.

Rendon LX-i
03-19-2009, 06:47 AM
Thats what i did....i welded a bung in my pan...took a very short time. Works great

nfs480
03-19-2009, 08:32 AM
I won't need it, I just replaced the oil pan with a brand new Genuine Honda oil pan and gasket.

w261w261
03-19-2009, 10:44 AM
I won't need it, I just replaced the oil pan with a brand new Genuine Honda oil pan and gasket.

Did you do it yourself or have someone do it? How difficult was it with the crossmember and various things that had to be disconnected?

nfs480
03-19-2009, 12:12 PM
I paid a mechanic to do it, decided it was too difficult of a job for me to handle.

lostforawhile
03-19-2009, 12:37 PM
I paid a mechanic to do it, decided it was too difficult of a job for me to handle.why in the world didn't you just get someone to fix it off the car? i hope you saved the old one, someone might need it and it can be fixed really easy. doesn't make much sense to replace something that can be repaired,even if someone else did it.

2ndGenGuy
03-19-2009, 01:49 PM
My engine doesn't even sit on the center crossmember most of the time. I think it's only there to help with movement. Since it's just a rubber nub sticking out the side, I don't think that it's designed to hold any weight. If your engine can fall through between your crossmembers, you have some serious problems! Even if your mounts were broken, the brackets would still land on the front and rear crossmembers, then your side mount would have to shear, and if all that happens, you're just totally fucked anyways!

Ichiban
03-19-2009, 03:44 PM
Learn how to weld, you fuckers.

88Accord-DX
03-19-2009, 04:05 PM
You could also tap the oil pan out to a size larger oil drain plug. The tap might be $20-$30 though.

lostforawhile
03-19-2009, 04:30 PM
My engine doesn't even sit on the center crossmember most of the time. I think it's only there to help with movement. Since it's just a rubber nub sticking out the side, I don't think that it's designed to hold any weight. If your engine can fall through between your crossmembers, you have some serious problems! Even if your mounts were broken, the brackets would still land on the front and rear crossmembers, then your side mount would have to shear, and if all that happens, you're just totally fucked anyways!that only happens to american cars like 80's fords, whens the last time you heard of a honda engine falling out going down the road lol. oh wait,didn't civic accords old accord motor fall out or something? he's S P E C I A L, I know his 3g that never ran had the entire center cross member missing

Civic Accord Honda
03-19-2009, 06:28 PM
that only happens to american cars like 80's fords, whens the last time you heard of a honda engine falling out going down the road lol. oh wait,didn't civic accords old accord motor fall out or something? he's S P E C I A L, I know his 3g that never ran had the entire center cross member missing
.. :P
nether of my 3gees had the center cross member with the tow hook on it
i also had to remove my legends due to it being twisted

and foo my engine didnt fall out it would just slam my hood every time i floored it cause i lost the dogbone mount and my front mount ripped from having all the a20a3 power!!