Point me in the right direction please

[bwallace530]

I have a 1988 Honda Accord DX. My accord has 167000 miiles on it. the body is all in good shape its all stock. There is no performance up grades that have been done except i got these plustar plugs and they arent what i expected idk if i need to do something to get them to work better or what. And now my car is starting to idle funny and wanting to die. Im taking it to the shop this weekend for they can fix it for i dont have to worry about that.

but i would like to get rims a new paint job exsaust system tinted windows make the engine better.
and i really dont know where to start i work all the time and i dont know that much about car as you all do

well if you could please help me i would really appricate it.

[ghettogeddy]

sweet your not to far from the bay area about 2 hours im guessing

[3rd Party]

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n129/85z31/troll_detected.png

picture speaks for itself...

[Pico]

WTF was that for ^^^

[3rd Party]

WTF was that for ^^^

i'm a bitter old man, 'nuff said

[bwallace530]

Oh wow thanks alot for the help you really ensipre me to keep on goning when you just shoot me down thank alot....

well ghettodaddy and pico, do you think you could help me out

[Pico]

we might be able to.
we've done alot here in my garage and I'm down to help out if you want to Bay Area

[bwallace530]

so you guys are going to help me?

[Pico]

so you guys are going to help me?

yeah, we can try..
At least get you running right, and if you need help lowering want to take a pick n pull run, we can do it.

[3rd Party]

so you guys are going to help me?

well for starters i'd do my own work instead of paying a shop...secondly you might want to invest in a shop manual that can guide you through the process of the problem you're trying to fix...and thirdly, trial and error man...if you're not breaking stuff, you're not learning.

[Rendon LX-i]

bro...i dont break stuff lol...just gotta be good. maybe you not so GOOD LOL....just do it right dont assume i double check or ask or see before i even attempt

[bwallace530]

yeah i kno i need a manual badly... and what do you mean lowering like the car? its just that is my only car my dad has a 03 accord but he works to and i got to get back and forth from work i cant afford to break my car.

[Pico]

when your ready and decide to get a set of lowering springs and shocks we'll help you install them so that you wont have to pay a shop to get them installed.
you can download the manual here http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25137

[3rd Party]

bro...i dont break stuff lol...just gotta be good. maybe you not so GOOD LOL....just do it right dont assume i double check or ask or see before i even attempt

when you first start working on cars you break stuff...it's how you learn. especially with tuning, sometimes you break shit, that's how you ALSO learn. being good doesn't mean you're not going to break something here and there. sure, i don't break things as much now, but everyone has their dull moments here and there...and is it just me, or is everyone walking around with the, "hate stick" stuck up their asses?? i post a picture jokingly, following it with a response of saracasm and people get their panties in a bunch...sheesh

[bwallace530]

Ok yeah i do want to lower my car and i would like to get a nice set of tires and rims but everywhere i look there hella expense i kno i must not be looking and talkin to the write people or something. o want to paint the car but thats hella money that i dont have either.

[3rd Party]

Ok yeah i do want to lower my car and i would like to get a nice set of tires and rims but everywhere i look there hella expense i kno i must not be looking and talkin to the write people or something. o want to paint the car but thats hella money that i dont have either.

Rota's dude, their $450/set...but you get what you pay for, and tires are just flat out expensive man, that's the way of the game. and if you want to lower your car and do it RIGHT, i'd advise swapping out control arms from the Second generation Prelude into the Accord so when you do drop it, the camber can be adjusted so you're not going through tires like tampons. and painting the car can be cheap, but do you really want a cheap paint job? unless you're painting the car the same color you MIGHT get away with it...

[Rendon LX-i]

Lol nay...everything i moslty do i make sure its done right. i broken a few bolts her and there. i make my own turbo kit and got it running from research did not run like crap....i asked alot of questions before i even drove it...Not saying im the greatest but i make sure its done right...and no one ganging on you...just dont do that type of shit if its not done to you "YOU NITENDO"

[3rd Party]

that wasn't even harsh...clearly if no one here has been/visited 4chan that may come across as a bit harsh, but coming from that world to here...that's NOTHING

[bwallace530]

ok thanks
and should i take it to the shop to figure out whats up with the idling and dieing

[3rd Party]

ok thanks
and should i take it to the shop to figure out whats up with the idling and dieing

first off a few things effect the way the car idles...ignition, fuel, timing, and the sensors that the car uses to control idle. you stated earlier that you expierenced problems after installing the plugs...have you checked to make sure the wires are put back in the correct order?? that could cause crappy idle and the car acting like it wants to die. if it's not that, are the plugs over/under gapped?? if not, did somehow by coincidence did you start having fuel delivery problems/sensor problems?? all these things are variables that could effect your car's idle

[bwallace530]

first off a few things effect the way the car idles...ignition, fuel, timing, and the sensors that the car uses to control idle. you stated earlier that you expierenced problems after installing the plugs...have you checked to make sure the wires are put back in the correct order?? that could cause crappy idle and the car acting like it wants to die. if it's not that, are the plugs over/under gapped?? if not, did somehow by coincidence did you start having fuel delivery problems/sensor problems?? all these things are variables that could effect your car's idleim not sure if i installed them right now not and i dont know what way there so post to go on from the distibuter to the valves
im not sure if they are over or under gapped how would i check that.

[bwallace530]

<a href="http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/brettwallace17/?action=view&current=3k43m43l6ZZZZZZZZZ92o7d2cc4ec01b013.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/brettwallace17/3k43m43l6ZZZZZZZZZ92o7d2cc4ec01b013.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/brettwallace17/?action=view&current=3m03p23l6ZZZZZZZZZ92pc34d9779cf691f.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/brettwallace17/3m03p23l6ZZZZZZZZZ92pc34d9779cf691f.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/brettwallace17/?action=view&current=3n13k93o3ZZZZZZZZZ92o6efe70d4da2b15.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/brettwallace17/3n13k93o3ZZZZZZZZZ92o6efe70d4da2b15.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/brettwallace17/?action=view&current=3ne3o93lcZZZZZZZZZ92p75c58d6ed6191b.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee132/brettwallace17/3ne3o93lcZZZZZZZZZ92p75c58d6ed6191b.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
here are some pics

[bwallace530]

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/2537/3k43m43l6zzzzzzzzz92o7d.th.jpg (http://img293.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3k43m43l6zzzzzzzzz92o7d.jpg)

[3rd Party]

you need to use the, "insert image" above the allowed space to type, THEN paste the link you copy from, "Photobucket" or whomever you use to share images

[bwallace530]

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/337/3m03p23l6zzzzzzzzz92pc3.th.jpg (http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3m03p23l6zzzzzzzzz92pc3.jpg)
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/5066/3n13k93o3zzzzzzzzz92o6e.th.jpg (http://img440.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3n13k93o3zzzzzzzzz92o6e.jpg)
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/146/3ne3o93lczzzzzzzzz92p75.th.jpg (http://img440.imageshack.us/my.php?image=3ne3o93lczzzzzzzzz92p75.jpg)

[bwallace530]

you need to use the, "insert image" above the allowed space to type, THEN paste the link you copy from, "Photobucket" or whomever you use to share imagesok thanks for that i feel hella dumb now lol well ill be on 2marrow got to go to bed to go to work in the morn

[3rd Party]

ok thanks for that i feel hella dumb now lol well ill be on 2marrow got to go to bed to go to work in the morn

no worries, you already got your initiation hassle from me earlier :thumbup:

[Civic Accord Honda]

nice car! Welcome!

[markmdz89hatch]

3rd is right... ...You need to make sure your wires are on good and snug, and that they're on in the right order. Along with that, you'll need to make sure your plugs are gapped right (if they need to be gapped. Some newer tech plugs say not to screw with gapping.).

So the question that begs to be asked is: Did these idling problems exist BEFORE you replaced the plugs, or is this new since the plugs were installed?

Welcome to the board. ...and like 3rd and Ren are saying, don't just dive into the pool without knowing how deep the water is, or how to swim. In other words, BEFORE you go about trying to do anything (even something seemingly simple as replacing plugs) do your homework, ask a million questions, and listen to the advice you get, but research on your own too, to ensure you're getting the right advice. Take good care of that coupe, it looks to be in good shape from the pictures.

[cubert]

speaking of plug gap..wasnt there a post floating around here where NGK recommended gapping slightly different from the manufacturers spec?


Edit: Brilliant me just found the thread with the big *STICKY* sign next to it :lol:


http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60398

[G. White]

I'm with Pico on this one.... I downloaded the factory service manual and put it on my desktop. The people that put that together are no joke. It is probably the most in depth maintainence manual I have ever seen. Start going through each section and asking myself- Has my car been doing that? The manual is telling me to check these things. You'll be troubleshooting and fixing things before you know it. Plus these guys have a wealth of knowledge and have owned these 3geez for many years.

Damn Pico I wish I still lived in Cali.....But the Air Force has me stationed in gates of hell Arizona. That's cool that you offer your services.

Bwallace you've got a nice coupe there take care of it and it will take care of you. Welcome to the site.

[bwallace530]

Where could i download the factory service manual? And yes it started after i put the new plugs in.

[3rd Party]

Where could i download the factory service manual? And yes it started after i put the new plugs in.

go to the search option on the forum and look for, "shop manual" then you should be able to sift out the ones with the shop manual download. but when you get a chance, make sure you check the wires and plugs again...make sure you did everything right.

[bwallace530]

go to the search option on the forum and look for, "shop manual" then you should be able to sift out the ones with the shop manual download. but when you get a chance, make sure you check the wires and plugs again...make sure you did everything right.How do i know if i got all the wire going to the right plugs if i got them wrong idk how to tell.

[3rd Party]

How do i know if i got all the wire going to the right plugs if i got them wrong idk how to tell.

well i guess if you don't have NGK wires they won't have numbers on them...but on the distributor there are little tallies on the nipples where the wires connect to, (i.e I, II, III, IIII) now the plug right next to the cam gear is Cyl. 1,, to the left it Cyl. 2, to the left of that one Cyl. 3, and the plug next to the distributor is Cyl. 4...so you take the wires already connected into the spark plugs and you say, "...ok, Cyl. 1 wire goes onto the nipple marked, 'I' on the distributor..." and so on for the rest of them

[ghettogeddy]

you may also need a new set of wires and ive never heard of those plugs you mentioned in the first post but a good cheap set of ngk's have always treated me right and if you can score some ngk wires off the net thats even better

[bwallace530]

well i guess if you don't have NGK wires they won't have numbers on them...but on the distributor there are little tallies on the nipples where the wires connect to, (i.e I, II, III, IIII) now the plug right next to the cam gear is Cyl. 1,, to the left it Cyl. 2, to the left of that one Cyl. 3, and the plug next to the distributor is Cyl. 4...so you take the wires already connected into the spark plugs and you say, "...ok, Cyl. 1 wire goes onto the nipple marked, 'I' on the distributor..." and so on for the rest of themOk i just checked and everything is ok. Now that i know that i got the wire connected right now what should i look for sense it is still doing the high idle and wanting to die. and thanks alot

[bwallace530]

you may also need a new set of wires and ive never heard of those plugs you mentioned in the first post but a good cheap set of ngk's have always treated me right and if you can score some ngk wires off the net thats even better

the pulstar plugs where 100 bucks

[3rd Party]

the pulstar plugs where 100 bucks

jesus man...$100 for plugs?? that's outrageous...well, now that that's out of the way i'd move on to the carb. there's a good chance something's gummed up in there, or you just simply need to do some adjusting on the idle screw...but carb tech is beyond me since i've never owned a carb'd motor...

[markmdz89hatch]

holy shitballs! "they do exist" ...actually, a quick Google search yielded some results...

http://www.pulstar.com/howtobuy.cfm?s=vmm&year=1989&make=HONDA&model=ACCORD|DX&engine=1166969

Note that page does specify a 0.040 gap. Please pull the plugs and make sure that they're gapped correctly. Be careful not to ruin the spark head though. A plug gapper can be had from AutoZone or the like for $1 to $8 depending on which you get. I prefer not to use the gapping disc which you just slide the disc under the head and turn it until you get to proper gapping. Instead, I prefer to use the blade style gapping gauges (http://www.drillspot.com/products/510253/kd_tools_kds164_12_blade_spark_plug_gap_gauge)

...anyway

1. Make sure they're gapped correctly
2. When you pull the plugs to gap them, take a picture and post it here so we can see if you've fouled out the plugs with vapor/gas washing
3. Verify that your wires are plugged to the proper plug
4. BE CAREFUL when putting the plugs back in. Start threading it by hand, and only after it's started, should you use any tools on it.*
5. Make sure you don't overtighten the plugs or you'll destroy the head
6. If you're replacing plugs and blowing $100 on them, I would suggest replacing the wires, distributor cap, and rotor while you're at it. No point in using awesome plugs if you can't give it the contact/current path needed to spark them.
7. IF this problem just started after you put these über expensive plugs in, I'm going to guess your carb is ok for now.

*IF you can't reach the plug with just your hands, either use a spark plug wrench (http://www.carparts.com/PERFORMANCE-TOOL-T-HANDLE-SPARK-PLUG-WRENCHES/GP_2017878_N__10618.car), or use a spark plug socket with a wobble extension or u-joint extension on it. The goal is to get the plug to basically walk onto the threads by itself so you don't end up forcing anything and stripping out the threads. I have done that, and it BLOWS.

...so just out of curiosity, why did you decide to replace your plugs, and why did you choose these plugs? (I'm not knocking you for it, just want to get to the bottom of the troubles you're having and want to help wherever I can.)

[markmdz89hatch]

An interesting thread I found on those plugs:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/98667-experiences-pulstar-pulse-aftermarket-spark-plugs.html

Not picking at all (I did the same thing when I started.), but just because it's stupid expensive, and promises the world, does not mean that it'll work. And then, even if there is something to merit the insane price, you'll have to be realistic about what to expect from a 20+ year old car with a very well used motor and one which is not ultra powerful. The most economical and effective way to make your car more fun is with suspension. The suspension in these cars is far superior to many cars of their day, and still still set ours apart from some newer cars.

Those plugs have a 30-day, no questions asked return policy, and I would suggest taking advantage of it (as long as it's been less than 30 days and you still have the receipt). For that $100, you could get yourself a set of good Bosch or NGK plugs, as well as a decent set of wires and new cap and rotor. The whole deal for $100 (or less) instead of just the plugs.

Next items for maintenance: fuel filters, air filter, oil change, thermostat and gasket replacement, PCV and temp sending unit replacement, and radiator flush. Next, consider replacing the valve cover gasket unless it's been done recently because those are prone to leaking on the carb'd cars due to the ally head and stamped steel cover.

Let us know what you're doing every step of the way and we'll all be here to help and/or flame a bit.

[Civic Accord Honda]

$100 plugs?!?! O_O!

$1.99 NGK V-Powers FTW!

[ghettogeddy]

and $10 > $100 it might be the crazy expensive plugs giving you your bad idel
i know even some of the more expensive ngk's will do that as well

[bwallace530]

holy shitballs! "they do exist" ...actually, a quick Google search yielded some results...

http://www.pulstar.com/howtobuy.cfm?s=vmm&year=1989&make=HONDA&model=ACCORD|DX&engine=1166969

Note that page does specify a 0.040 gap. Please pull the plugs and make sure that they're gapped correctly. Be careful not to ruin the spark head though. A plug gapper can be had from AutoZone or the like for $1 to $8 depending on which you get. I prefer not to use the gapping disc which you just slide the disc under the head and turn it until you get to proper gapping. Instead, I prefer to use the blade style gapping gauges (http://www.drillspot.com/products/510253/kd_tools_kds164_12_blade_spark_plug_gap_gauge)

...anyway

1. Make sure they're gapped correctly
2. When you pull the plugs to gap them, take a picture and post it here so we can see if you've fouled out the plugs with vapor/gas washing
3. Verify that your wires are plugged to the proper plug
4. BE CAREFUL when putting the plugs back in. Start threading it by hand, and only after it's started, should you use any tools on it.*
5. Make sure you don't overtighten the plugs or you'll destroy the head
6. If you're replacing plugs and blowing $100 on them, I would suggest replacing the wires, distributor cap, and rotor while you're at it. No point in using awesome plugs if you can't give it the contact/current path needed to spark them.
7. IF this problem just started after you put these über expensive plugs in, I'm going to guess your carb is ok for now.

*IF you can't reach the plug with just your hands, either use a spark plug wrench (http://www.carparts.com/PERFORMANCE-TOOL-T-HANDLE-SPARK-PLUG-WRENCHES/GP_2017878_N__10618.car), or use a spark plug socket with a wobble extension or u-joint extension on it. The goal is to get the plug to basically walk onto the threads by itself so you don't end up forcing anything and stripping out the threads. I have done that, and it BLOWS.

...so just out of curiosity, why did you decide to replace your plugs, and why did you choose these plugs? (I'm not knocking you for it, just want to get to the bottom of the troubles you're having and want to help wherever I can.)
the plugs that where in there i dont think they were changed for 20yrs they were hella burnt up all black and crap. so i herd about the pulstar plugs and i had that extra about of money so i bought then they are alot smaller in width then the other ones. i did replace the spark plug wires. i checked the distributer cap and it seemed all ok but i just took it off sense i didnt really know what to do next one of the plugs that u put the wire to the engine was kinda corodded i tried to clean it out but that didnt really get me that far. and it was like that when i got the new plugs.

and a week before i put the new plugs in i replaced the valve cover gasket but that was it.

[bwallace530]

and $10 > $100 it might be the crazy expensive plugs giving you your bad idel
i know even some of the more expensive ngk's will do that as well
i think that it might be the problem

[bwallace530]

An interesting thread I found on those plugs:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/98667-experiences-pulstar-pulse-aftermarket-spark-plugs.html

Not picking at all (I did the same thing when I started.), but just because it's stupid expensive, and promises the world, does not mean that it'll work. And then, even if there is something to merit the insane price, you'll have to be realistic about what to expect from a 20+ year old car with a very well used motor and one which is not ultra powerful. The most economical and effective way to make your car more fun is with suspension. The suspension in these cars is far superior to many cars of their day, and still still set ours apart from some newer cars.

Those plugs have a 30-day, no questions asked return policy, and I would suggest taking advantage of it (as long as it's been less than 30 days and you still have the receipt). For that $100, you could get yourself a set of good Bosch or NGK plugs, as well as a decent set of wires and new cap and rotor. The whole deal for $100 (or less) instead of just the plugs.

Next items for maintenance: fuel filters, air filter, oil change, thermostat and gasket replacement, PCV and temp sending unit replacement, and radiator flush. Next, consider replacing the valve cover gasket unless it's been done recently because those are prone to leaking on the carb'd cars due to the ally head and stamped steel cover.

Let us know what you're doing every step of the way and we'll all be here to help and/or flame a bit.
i did the 1st fuel filter by the engine and i have the second could you tell me how to put that one in, where is the thermostat and what gasket replacement where is the temp sending unit and im going to do the radiator this friday and oil. and i have a ? about some thing i saw on my firewall going to my engine looks like a round bar with thing that a bolt can go threw and it is loose


i just took out the plustars and there all burnt out i will never recemend them to anyone they were the reason my car was fucked up
so i went and bought some v-power from napa just a sec ago and im about to put them in.

[markmdz89hatch]

yeah, let us know how those work out. I'm not ready to call the Pulstar's junk, but def not worth the money. It just might have been the wrong plug for your setup.

I would also (just because it's cheap and never hurts to do) replace the distributor cap and rotor. What you'll notice with a cap that should be replaced is the 4 points on the underside of the cap will tend to get corroded or worn. The rotor (the little deal that spins inside the cap) has a contact on the end of it that will also get corroded or just worn. (Both are very cheap). Do the cap and rotor, verify your wires are in the proper order, and swap out the plugs (don't forget to gap them right), and you should be running much better.

The other fuel filter is under the car just in front of the fuel tank. Same idea as the one under the hood. Just clamp off both fuel lines to/from the filter, pull them off the nipples on the filter, and replace with new. Done.

As for the bar thing you mentioned, I'm guessing it's the top 'dog bone' engine mount. That's one of the motor mounts, and it's supposed to be a little 'loose' at the engine side. You'll eventually want to replace all the mounts, but don't worry about those just yet, let's get your car idling right for now.

t-stat should be replaced when you flush your coolant. It's very easy to do, and pretty cheap as well.

the gasket I mentioned is one that goes with your thermostat. When you get the t-stat from napa or autozone, open the box and see if there is a rubber gasket with it. If not, ask them for that as well. Remember to put that t-stat in correctly. There's a flow direction that you need to be aware of when putting it in.

[bwallace530]

yeah, let us know how those work out. I'm not ready to call the Pulstar's junk, but def not worth the money. It just might have been the wrong plug for your setup.

I would also (just because it's cheap and never hurts to do) replace the distributor cap and rotor. What you'll notice with a cap that should be replaced is the 4 points on the underside of the cap will tend to get corroded or worn. The rotor (the little deal that spins inside the cap) has a contact on the end of it that will also get corroded or just worn. (Both are very cheap). Do the cap and rotor, verify your wires are in the proper order, and swap out the plugs (don't forget to gap them right), and you should be running much better.

The other fuel filter is under the car just in front of the fuel tank. Same idea as the one under the hood. Just clamp off both fuel lines to/from the filter, pull them off the nipples on the filter, and replace with new. Done.

As for the bar thing you mentioned, I'm guessing it's the top 'dog bone' engine mount. That's one of the motor mounts, and it's supposed to be a little 'loose' at the engine side. You'll eventually want to replace all the mounts, but don't worry about those just yet, let's get your car idling right for now.

t-stat should be replaced when you flush your coolant. It's very easy to do, and pretty cheap as well.

the gasket I mentioned is one that goes with your thermostat. When you get the t-stat from napa or autozone, open the box and see if there is a rubber gasket with it. If not, ask them for that as well. Remember to put that t-stat in correctly. There's a flow direction that you need to be aware of when putting it in.

so the new v-power need to be gapped also even tho they r for my car? How can i get the the gas filter by the tank do i need to take my tire off and remove anything?

and my car is making a wierd poping sound like a buble is poping or its choking????
and my car is still doing the wierd idle thing. so it wasnot the plustar but they might of caused the problem tho cuz they where all burnt out?
and another ? there is a little box under where my stereo is and it says ecu on it? it was unplugged when i bought the car i plugged it back in but i cant tell any diffrence tho if you could please help me with that thank you all so much everyday it seems like im getting closer to finding the problem and do you think i should wait out taking the car into the shop for now?

[Civic Accord Honda]

yeah u have to take the tire off then u should be able to see the fuel filter. pretty easy to replace.

[bwallace530]

yeah u have to take the tire off then u should be able to see the fuel filter. pretty easy to replace.

i cant do it today sense i do not have a lug nut wrench so this has to wait

[ghettogeddy]

the box under the radio needs to be pluged in as far as the idel it might be your carb
the 2nd ventury like to come loss

[bwallace530]

the box under the radio needs to be pluged in as far as the idel it might be your carb
the 2nd ventury like to come loss
what do you mean 2nd ventury?

and would i need to adjust my carb and if so how do i do that?

[ghettogeddy]

what do you mean 2nd ventury?

and would i need to adjust my carb and if so how do i do that?

its nto a carb adjustment as a bolt that come loss its a pita to get to and you ahve to remove the choke to get to it lol pop rivits suck ass

[bwallace530]

its nto a carb adjustment as a bolt that come loss its a pita to get to and you ahve to remove the choke to get to it lol pop rivits suck ass

dam it nothing is never easy for me, need someone to look at it..... or listin to it it sounds like the car is choking wanting to breath almost sounds like it backfiring its really wierd.

[ghettogeddy]

did you change the air cleaner
also that 2nd fuel filter shoudl help alot as well

[bwallace530]

did you change the air cleaner
also that 2nd fuel filter shoudl help alot as well

the air filter i did is that what u mean by air cleaner? amd i kno i need to do the fule filter but i dont have a lug nut wrench anymore for some reason

[Civic Accord Honda]

the spare tire lug nut wrench is missing? . to bad your not over here i got a shit load of them i could give you

[bwallace530]

the spare tire lug nut wrench is missing? . to bad your not over here i got a shit load of them i could give you

well anyone got any ideas about looking for what wrong or where to look on my accord

[3rd Party]

buy a weber and that'll solve all your problems bro...honestly though, you should've picked up a FI'd third gen, carb'd motors are a pain if it's your first car learning the trade of auto mechanics on

[Civic Accord Honda]

buy a weber and that'll solve all your problems bro...honestly though, you should've picked up a FI'd third gen, carb'd motors are a pain if it's your first car learning the trade of auto mechanics on

yeah i wanted to recommend a weber but hes in cali so thats a big no :banghead::banghead:

[bwallace530]

yeah i wanted to recommend a weber but hes in cali so thats a big no :banghead::banghead:

why no weber in cali? and what about seafoam im up to try anything right now i herd it works but where to buy?

[ghettogeddy]

um its not smog legal in ca

[bwallace530]

um its not smog legal in ca

of course nothing is here in cali?
what about seafoam?

[markmdz89hatch]

i'm just about 100% positive you can do the fuel filter without removing the tire. Just jack up the car by the jack point just ahead of the rear tire on the rocker and crawl under there and get this done. Either that or if you have a set of ramps, just back up onto the ramps and get under there and get to work.

Take a vid of this popping and post it up. I'm still not convinced it's not the ignition.

Yes, the plugs should still be gapped properly. Just because they are the ones that 'fit' our cars does not mean that they are gapped properly right out of the box. Just be careful because some specifically say not to gap.

So you replaced the plugs, and wires then? What about the cap and rotor?

Don't screw around with that carb just yet. Once you tinker with it, you'll have a bitch of a time getting it back in tune. Where the hell is roodoo or Mikey, they both know these carbs real well. I only know how to yank them out of the car and rebuild them, but can't tune them for shit honestly.

[Civic Accord Honda]

um its not smog legal in ca

exactly . stupid California! :banghead:

[bwallace530]

i'm just about 100% positive you can do the fuel filter without removing the tire. Just jack up the car by the jack point just ahead of the rear tire on the rocker and crawl under there and get this done. Either that or if you have a set of ramps, just back up onto the ramps and get under there and get to work.

Take a vid of this popping and post it up. I'm still not convinced it's not the ignition.

Yes, the plugs should still be gapped properly. Just because they are the ones that 'fit' our cars does not mean that they are gapped properly right out of the box. Just be careful because some specifically say not to gap.

So you replaced the plugs, and wires then? What about the cap and rotor?

Don't screw around with that carb just yet. Once you tinker with it, you'll have a bitch of a time getting it back in tune. Where the hell is roodoo or Mikey, they both know these carbs real well. I only know how to yank them out of the car and rebuild them, but can't tune them for shit honestly.
well its getting dark here and this would be my first time working under a jacked up car idk why but im nervous.
ok ill take a vid of it idk if you guys will here it or not. so the v-powers that i got need to be gapped then??? i have never gapped any of mine
no i have not i dont kno how to do the cap and rotor i havent check it i think.

[markmdz89hatch]

please don't fog the motor (seafoam). ...at least not yet.

[bwallace530]

please don't fog the motor (seafoam). ...at least not yet.
ok i wont im just reading things on here and getting ideas trying to see whats up with it.

[markmdz89hatch]

well its getting dark here and this would be my first time working under a jacked up car idk why but im nervous.
ok ill take a vid of it idk if you guys will here it or not. so the v-powers that i got need to be gapped then??? i have never gapped any of mine
no i have not i dont kno how to do the cap and rotor i havent check it i think.

if you're nervous about getting under the car, then just back it up onto some ramps and chock the front wheels, and you're golden. That confidence will come in time.

Dunno if the v-powers should be gapped, check the box they came in, it'll tell you right on it.

The cap and rotor are very easy to swap. All of the wires plug onto the distributor cap. There's two small phillips head bolts/screws holding the cap on (sometimes they're swapped out with 1/4" hex heads). Shoot those with PB Blaster as they like to get seized up, and if you snap one in the dizzy (distributor) housing, it's a bitch to get them out, then let them sit for a few hours after you soak them in PB. Then back the bolts/screws off, and you'll see the points inside the cap, as well as the rotor. The rotor just pulls off (there might be a small bolt holding that on, but I don't remember right now). Either way, both are very easy to swap out.

Honestly, I'm still thinking that popping might just be either bad fuel delivery (fuel filter) your firing order is fooked because your wires are not on right. Have someone who's done it before, look at the wires and make sure you've got them on in the right order and they're securely pushed onto spark plug ends.

[Civic Accord Honda]

my V-powers had .44 PRE GAP on the box written in magic marker. i checked them and they were all hella off so i re gapped them all

[bwallace530]

if you're nervous about getting under the car, then just back it up onto some ramps and chock the front wheels, and you're golden. That confidence will come in time.

Dunno if the v-powers should be gapped, check the box they came in, it'll tell you right on it.

The cap and rotor are very easy to swap. All of the wires plug onto the distributor cap. There's two small phillips head bolts/screws holding the cap on (sometimes they're swapped out with 1/4" hex heads). Shoot those with PB Blaster as they like to get seized up, and if you snap one in the dizzy (distributor) housing, it's a bitch to get them out, then let them sit for a few hours after you soak them in PB. Then back the bolts/screws off, and you'll see the points inside the cap, as well as the rotor. The rotor just pulls off (there might be a small bolt holding that on, but I don't remember right now). Either way, both are very easy to swap out.

Honestly, I'm still thinking that popping might just be either bad fuel delivery (fuel filter) your firing order is fooked because your wires are not on right. Have someone who's done it before, look at the wires and make sure you've got them on in the right order and they're securely pushed onto spark plug ends.
ok i went to the back of the car and i wanted to see if i could here the popping coming out of the exhaust and i can idk if that makes any differences and what the hell is the firing ordering from the distributer to the plugs....

the back say always set the manufacturs specs???? so i put them in with out being gapped could this be the whole problem?

[Civic Accord Honda]

it might be part of the problem shouldn't cause it backfire though unless there hella off..

i would definitely check the firing order there is a pic posted of it somewhere on here i will try to find it .

also check the timing on it.

[markmdz89hatch]

ok i went to the back of the car and i wanted to see if i could here the popping coming out of the exhaust and i can idk if that makes any differences and what the hell is the firing ordering from the distributer to the plugs....

the back say always set the manufacturs specs???? so i put them in with out being gapped could this be the whole problem?

i doubt the gapping is the whole problem, but it's certainly not helping if they're gapped wrong. The firing order is determined by the distributor, which is translated to the spark plugs by way of the wires.

ok, check out this thread: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67859&highlight=firing+order

there's a pic on there that you should follow, but take time to read through it. Roodoo does put it in terms that make sense.

Edit: I'm working on boat upholstery right now (10:41) (and it's work I take on the side to fund the 3G project) but keep dragging myself away to check this thread. ...I'll keep checking it as I've been though.... I think we're getting somewhere now too.

[bwallace530]

it might be part of the problem shouldn't cause it backfire though unless there hella off..

i would definitely check the firing order there is a pic posted of it somewhere on here i will try to find it .

also check the timing on it.
how would i check the firing order?
how would i check the timming?

and thanks alot this is all getting better

[bwallace530]

i doubt the gapping is the whole problem, but it's certainly not helping if they're gapped wrong. The firing order is determined by the distributor, which is translated to the spark plugs by way of the wires.

ok, check out this thread: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67859&highlight=firing+order

there's a pic on there that you should follow, but take time to read through it. Roodoo does put it in terms that make sense.

Edit: I'm working on boat upholstery right now (10:41) (and it's work I take on the side to fund the 3G project) but keep dragging myself away to check this thread. ...I'll keep checking it as I've been though.... I think we're getting somewhere now too.

that tread is confusing there are to many diffrent things 1234 4321 4312

[markmdz89hatch]

just look at the picture that shows the cylinder numbers

now look on the dizzy cap where the wires plug onto it. there's little numbers on it. make sure the wire plugged onto number one on the dizzy goes to the plug on cylinder 1, and so on

[Civic Accord Honda]

firing order

http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images//0900c152/80/05/f3/a7//medium/0900c1528005f3a7.gif

[markmdz89hatch]

yeah, just to confuse your further, that dizzy cap in the pic is for FI, not carb, so just make sure you match up the numbers to the cyl

ah F it, check your PM, just give me a call if you can. I PM'd you with my home number.

[bwallace530]

yeah, just to confuse your further, that dizzy cap in the pic is for FI, not carb, so just make sure you match up the numbers to the cyl

ah F it, check your PM, just give me a call if you can. I PM'd you with my home number.

ok i got the firing order all good.....it was right the whole time so now we know its not that right? but could it still be the gaps?

[markmdz89hatch]

yep, check the gaps. ...and I'm still suspicious of that cap and rotor too, and make sure the wires are popped all the way on the plug heads, and they are also seated well into the dizzy cap.

[bwallace530]

yep, check the gaps. ...and I'm still suspicious of that cap and rotor too, and make sure the wires are popped all the way on the plug heads, and they are also seated well into the dizzy cap.

ok how do i check the rotor?? and what to look for when i do? wire are popped all the way in too
this guy 89sei89dx in my other thread said he was having the same problem and he had a vaccum tube unpluged

[markmdz89hatch]

any chance you can call? it'll be much faster that way.

[bwallace530]

any chance you can call? it'll be much faster that way.

yeah in just a min im eating then i will

[Dr_Snooz]

Check the timing. Firing order is probably fine. There's noooooo question when that's flubbed up. I'd say ditch the whiz-bang plugs until you get it running. Take back the V-Powers and run the OEM recommended plugs for now. You have all kinds of time to worry about performance later. Remember that the ECU was unplugged and the old plugs were FUBAR. The cylinders and exhaust are probably chock full of God only knows what. To get it to run, the PO probably had to do some seriously creative detuning. He or she probably monkeyed with a lot of important carb settings too. Run a few cans of Techron through it and that should help a lot. I don't recommend Seafoam. Do a full tune up like the guys have been describing. You might want to take it to a good carb shop just to make sure it isn't all screwed up.

I recommend that you sit down this weekend and read the manual cover to cover. You're asking a lot of questions that any cursory scan of the manual will answer. Know what's in there and you'll save yourself a lot of heartache in the long run.

Good luck!

[bwallace530]

any chance you can call? it'll be much faster that way.

hey and thanks again for helping me out and talking me threw this crap, im hoping it is the fuel filter it does make sense after it went to empty all this shit is happing

well we will see 2marrow when i change it out.

[Civic Accord Honda]

Check the timing. Firing order is probably fine. There's noooooo question when that's flubbed up. I'd say ditch the whiz-bang plugs until you get it running. Take back the V-Powers and run the OEM recommended plugs for now. You have all kinds of time to worry about performance later. Remember that the ECU was unplugged and the old plugs were FUBAR. The cylinders and exhaust are probably chock full of God only knows what. To get it to run, the PO probably had to do some seriously creative detuning. He or she probably monkeyed with a lot of important carb settings too. Run a few cans of Techron through it and that should help a lot. I don't recommend Seafoam. Do a full tune up like the guys have been describing. You might want to take it to a good carb shop just to make sure it isn't all screwed up.

I recommend that you sit down this weekend and read the manual cover to cover. You're asking a lot of questions that any cursory scan of the manual will answer. Know what's in there and you'll save yourself a lot of heartache in the long run.

Good luck!

V-powers are basically the oem ones lol

[bwallace530]

V-powers are basically the oem ones lol

yeah the v-powers are they say it right on the box

i have one more ? what kind of oil should i use when i change my oil??

10w-30 or 10w-40